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Old 12-26-2016, 05:48 AM   #1726
Krang
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Back to bump steer correction. The DRC design gave me a few ideas. I would do something very similar to their design, but would solder the part to my ball joint extender instead and keep stock ball joint setup. I would also find a way to fix it to the second hole in red like their design as well to improve rigidity. Let me know what you think and if you have ideas.
This was exactly my plan, as it gives you the support to set your tie rod wherever you like with spacers. I don't have the means to fabricate this stuff so I'm forced to go with OTS solutions unfortunately.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:49 AM   #1727
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Yeah, rather than try and re-invent the wheel with electronic throttle control it would be easier to have a small throttle body that only opened at idle to provide the bypass air.
Honestly, I don't see the risk vs reward paying off with these systems. Seems like a LOT of work for very minimal gain.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:57 AM   #1728
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Double post.

Last edited by Krang; 12-26-2016 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:48 AM   #1729
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Honestly, I don't see the risk vs reward paying off with these systems. Seems like a LOT of work for very minimal gain.
Zero lag, constant power everywhere. No corner or dig would be too tight, and no matter where you lift on course when you get back on throttle all the boost is available right then and there.

Yes, it's a lot of work, but people have already done stuff like this in SM. If there's an advantage, people will build for it.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:45 AM   #1730
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Yeah, rather than try and re-invent the wheel with electronic throttle control it would be easier to have a small throttle body that only opened at idle to provide the bypass air.
I think you end up building a pretty trick mechanical system to manage the air dosing as revs increase and you control wheel speed. It is an interesting thought and reminds me of how it was done in army tanks in the 60's.

As for Smoky, I think you meant weld and not solder.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:12 AM   #1731
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As for Smoky, I think you meant weld and not solder.
That's correct, tx for fixing bad translation
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:46 PM   #1732
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Zero lag, constant power everywhere. No corner or dig would be too tight, and no matter where you lift on course when you get back on throttle all the boost is available right then and there.

Yes, it's a lot of work, but people have already done stuff like this in SM. If there's an advantage, people will build for it.
You have a point for sure, I guess I'm just not on that level of thinking / competition yet.
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:51 PM   #1733
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I think you end up building a pretty trick mechanical system to manage the air dosing as revs increase and you control wheel speed. It is an interesting thought and reminds me of how it was done in army tanks in the 60's.

As for Smoky, I think you meant weld and not solder.
Just throttle it with fuel.

But I agree on the unnecessary complexity. Now that the EFRs exist you can build a 2 liter motor that'll peak at 450hp and have the powerband extend from 35mph to 75mph without getting too crazy with internal parts to support revs. I'm expecting the 2.5 Duratec with the 7163 to be able to hit peak power at 550 (once its build, 450 on the stock internals) and with my current gearing be in boost from ~25mph to 74mph.

If theres a time where streetmod get silly enough where you need 1.6L weight but 500+hp to win, thats where rocket anitlag would shine. And when that time comes I'm building an A-mod.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:53 PM   #1734
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Since my car is swapped (205 w/ VF39) and it bumps me into this class would it be worth throwing on some wider wheels? Currently running 17x9 on 245 ZII's and was toying with the idea of switching to 18x10 on 275 RS3's.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:53 PM   #1735
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You should totally run narrower wheels. You'll never get heat in the tires otherwise.
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:19 AM   #1736
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You should totally run narrower wheels. You'll never get heat in the tires otherwise.
Higher TW tires will also let you generate surface temp faster off the line.
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:15 PM   #1737
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I <3 Nasioc. Cool, I'll get a full season on wide street tires and give R comps a go next season when funds allow.
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:38 PM   #1738
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I <3 Nasioc. Cool, I'll get a full season on wide street tires and give R comps a go next season when funds allow.
18x11 is a pretty standard size in SM right now with some on 18x12. 315 is pretty standard too for tires and 335's are starting to be tested more. That's at the pointy end though. Anything 275 or wider in an r-comp on a 10 or wider will do fine at the local level assuming you're running in open class and not pro class.
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Old 01-09-2017, 05:17 PM   #1739
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My (serious) $0.02 would be to stick with 17's and street tires until/if/when you decide to go to R-comps. You can keep using your 17x9's with any number of the substantially less expensive 255/40's out there. Going to an 18" and still running street tires will end up pissing away a large portion of the savings that you get from running street tires in the first place.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:00 PM   #1740
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You should totally run narrower wheels. You'll never get heat in the tires otherwise.
New RS3s dont need much heat though. If they were original RS3s I'd agree, I got the 225 original RS3s up to temp once on the miata, it was the only day we raced over 100F and with less than 5 minutes between runs.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:53 PM   #1741
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This is how you get a hankook up to temp.

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Old 01-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #1742
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Anybody lower their engine and transmission with custom bushing/spacer?? MSI engine mount are lowering by 10mm. Planning on trying this, but if someone has experience on GD subframe I would be interested in knowing how low it can be. I was thinking around 15mm to start.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:10 AM   #1743
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It doesn't do much other than very minor lowering of CG. IMHO the money spent towards MSI parts could be spent on things that matter like tires or entry fees. I've never found MSI to be worth the price.
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Old 01-16-2017, 09:58 AM   #1744
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I had been working on mounts to move down and back but alas, I don't have a mill to make my own parts, as it's been low priority on my list of things to do.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:21 AM   #1745
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What I think is more important is making good mounts for the transmission subframe. Everyone makes good mounts for the engine and trans to mount to their respective subframes, but then ignores the trans subframes super squishy pieces. And when you firm up one link in the chain the stress goes to the next week link and you tear bushings apart from hard launches or quick shifts.

I ended up making my own out of delrin, but cnc would be better out of aluminum.
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Old 01-16-2017, 11:46 AM   #1746
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yep I don't expect much gain from this, but I already have a set of Perrin mount and making a custom aluminum part out of a 2 x 1,25 x 12 to replace the bushing on these mounts would be very easy and cheap to do. I could lower and move back slightly the whole drive train. Lowering the transmission seems quite easy and cheap to do as well. Engine and subframe are out, so I'll make some test, just wanted to know if some people already had idea on how much you can lower and move back the engine/tranny. I don't think you can move back that much without a shorter driving shaft.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:59 PM   #1747
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yep I don't expect much gain from this, but I already have a set of Perrin mount and making a custom aluminum part out of a 2 x 1,25 x 12 to replace the bushing on these mounts would be very easy and cheap to do. I could lower and move back slightly the whole drive train. Lowering the transmission seems quite easy and cheap to do as well. Engine and subframe are out, so I'll make some test, just wanted to know if some people already had idea on how much you can lower and move back the engine/tranny. I don't think you can move back that much without a shorter driving shaft.
Beyond shorter driveshaft, you'd want to look at the total angle of the CV joints in the front axles, making sure the shifter still lines up, and that you don't run the down pipe into the fire wall. That's kind of why my thoughts are it's not worth it until you really make big changes. Although every little bit helps so if you have the ability and time, go for it
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:38 PM   #1748
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Aluminati makes solid aluminum transmission cross frame mounts.

https://www.aluminati.us/products/al...ember-bushings
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Old 01-16-2017, 03:27 PM   #1749
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Aluminati makes solid aluminum transmission cross frame mounts.

https://www.aluminati.us/products/al...ember-bushings
Nice! Might have to order these. The pitch stop is tempting too, but I already built my own length adjustable one. If I hadn't I'd totally buy that one. It's pretty reasonably priced.
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:52 PM   #1750
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also beware when lowering the motor that you're going to lower the front diff and make the axle angle even worse than you did just lowering the car.
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