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Old 11-14-2016, 04:42 PM   #26
STI Fan Boy
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Awesome write up!!!
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:32 PM   #27
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^ agree. I really am thinking about doing it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 06:02 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by schkemy182 View Post
I did not. I am still waiting to hear back from DD. Hopefully it will be sometime early this week.
Any updates? I've got my headlights pulled apart and and waiting on my paint to dry from blacking everything out then I'll be ready to tackle the c-lights, I've got a limited and the Subispeed DRL Harness. So the LED diode board is removed and not reused?
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:43 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by schkemy182 View Post
So, I have a 2015 WRX Limited and I just installed the DD C-Lights with the DD DRL harness.

I have encountered a problem. With the DRL harness installed, the C-Light becomes the DRL instead of the high beam as expected. However, it is not at 100% brightness. It is the same brightness when the headlights are on. The issue is that when I engage the high beams, the C-Lights get brighter and the high beams do not come on. It is as if the DRL harness wired the C-Lights as the high beam.

I have quadruple checked the wiring and made sure all the connectors are connected the right way and have had 3 other people check it too.

I contacted DD about this and they said it sounded like I had a faulty DRL harness. I got a replacement DRL harness today, except that did not fix the problem.

Has anyone else with a Limited WRX or STI with the factory LED headlights experienced this? I find this to be odd and I am just trying to get some answers over the weekend while I wait to contact DD again on Monday.

Note: Everything works the same as it did from factory without the DRL harness installed.
Are you (or were you) running LEDs for your high beam/DRL 9005s? The trouble with Subaru's approach to DRL is the resistor setup leads to varying voltages at the DRL/HB bulb/harness. The voltage applied the the harness in DRL mode is a function of current through the circuit. The more current the more voltage your DRL resistor is going to drop and current is heavily dependent on what you're running, halogen or LED, with the latter consuming less.

Try running your factory halogen DRLs to see if that makes a difference.

Last edited by Brown1428; 12-16-2016 at 06:51 AM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 12-18-2016, 04:07 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gro Harlem View Post



The above post also covers putting a rubber grommet and feeding the harness through the C-light bulb hole plug on the Limited/STI headlight housings. I didn't see this post until I was done so I ended up removing my side-marker bulb and feeding the wire through that hole and using silicone to seal it.



[/b]

Awesome write up. I finished mine just today and your information was very useful.

One thing the note is that the above post does not apply to limited/sti headlights because there is no c light bulb hole with which to plug with the Lowe's grommet. You might be able to use the grommet in the side marker hole (if you want to remove it) but I didn't check so can't confirm. I fed my C light harness through the top pressure (moisture?) plug hole, which is gray in color. The harness barely fits through but it does fit. Ymmv. There are a handful of these plugs on each headlight. This allows you to retain the side marker and keep your dremel in the drawer.

I'm satisfied with the product but I think I now know why DD "conveniently" neglected to include detailed step-by-step instructions for the limited/sti application.

Thanks again!
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:57 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schkemy182 View Post
So, I have a 2015 WRX Limited and I just installed the DD C-Lights with the DD DRL harness.

I have encountered a problem. With the DRL harness installed, the C-Light becomes the DRL instead of the high beam as expected. However, it is not at 100% brightness. It is the same brightness when the headlights are on. The issue is that when I engage the high beams, the C-Lights get brighter and the high beams do not come on. It is as if the DRL harness wired the C-Lights as the high beam.

I have quadruple checked the wiring and made sure all the connectors are connected the right way and have had 3 other people check it too.

I contacted DD about this and they said it sounded like I had a faulty DRL harness. I got a replacement DRL harness today, except that did not fix the problem.

Has anyone else with a Limited WRX or STI with the factory LED headlights experienced this? I find this to be odd and I am just trying to get some answers over the weekend while I wait to contact DD again on Monday.

Note: Everything works the same as it did from factory without the DRL harness installed.
I hope I'm not too late to chime in. I installed the DD a few weeks ago and had the same issue on my limited wrx (high beams are switched to olm leds). DD's DRL harness was missing a female connector and they had to send me another set, so there is some serious quality control problems going on. After installing the new set of drl harnesses (everything was connected-I'm 99% sure) the driver side high beam kept flashing on and off when I had my lights on "auto" during the day. The driver side somehow sorted itself out and now it works. The passenger side though... the c light would suddenly stop working when it changes from full bright to low from time to time and won't go back on.
I think it may be something wrong with the drivers but I am not sure. After reading this thread, I think I'll switch out my led high beams with halogens to see what happens. I'll update if it works.
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:58 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown1428 View Post
Awesome write up. I finished mine just today and your information was very useful.

One thing the note is that the above post does not apply to limited/sti headlights because there is no c light bulb hole with which to plug with the Lowe's grommet. You might be able to use the grommet in the side marker hole (if you want to remove it) but I didn't check so can't confirm. I fed my C light harness through the top pressure (moisture?) plug hole, which is gray in color. The harness barely fits through but it does fit. Ymmv. There are a handful of these plugs on each headlight. This allows you to retain the side marker and keep your dremel in the drawer.

I'm satisfied with the product but I think I now know why DD "conveniently" neglected to include detailed step-by-step instructions for the limited/sti application.

Thanks again!
I used the side marker bulb hole to feed the c light wire through. The grommet fit perfectly and I just used silicon to seal it up. I figured since the c light also functions as the side marker now there was no need to keep the bulb in.
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:05 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by willtanged View Post
After installing the new set of drl harnesses (everything was connected-I'm 99% sure) the driver side high beam kept flashing on and off when I had my lights on "auto" during the day. The driver side somehow sorted itself out and now it works.
Mine is doing the same thing, but it isn't sorting itself out. I contacted Diode Dynamics and they told me they are redesigning the harness. Apparently the reason it isn't working is due to voltage drops in the winter and variation between cars (Note, this is on a base WRX).

I'm tempted to unplug my DRL resistor again and just wire everything directly to it, but I really don't want to have to take my bumper off again lol... I'll probably just wait for them to send the updated harness.
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:10 AM   #34
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After driving for a while, the drl harness worked flawlessly. Then suddenly, the passengers side starts flickering and stops working again (it has been very cold lately so that might be the cause?). Hopefully the new drl harness by DD will fix this problem.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:55 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by willtanged View Post
After driving for a while, the drl harness worked flawlessly. Then suddenly, the passengers side starts flickering and stops working again (it has been very cold lately so that might be the cause?). Hopefully the new drl harness by DD will fix this problem.
I ended up making my own harness. Cost me nothing, all you really need is a couple feet of wire and a spade connector.

I didn't re-read the instructions posted here, so there is probably not any new info, but whatever.
1. Unplug and remove DRL resistor.
2. I used a spare pin i had to plug straight into the connector that was originally plugged to the DRL resistor, but you could also start the harness with a T-Tap. Either way you do it, you want to connect to the green wire which carries the DRL power.
3. From the pin or T-Tap you will have a Y Harness - that is one wire to go to the pigtail harness/LED driver on each side of the car (the red wire in Diode Dynamics case). For me, one of the wires was only an inch long, because the DRL resistor was on the drivers side, and my red DD DRL wire i needed to connect it to was right there. The other wire needs to be long enough to route it over to the other side of the car.
4. If you have a newer diode dynamics pigtail harness (the 4 wires), they are improperly made such that all the wires are bundled together, which isn't helpful. Extract the red wire from each (and yellow if you didn't already do it, because I have no idea how you would get that down to your fog lights otherwise
5. At each end of the Y harness you made, crimp on a spade connector. Plug that into the DD harness on each side, and you're in business.

Works perfectly, and Diode Dynamics gave me a refund for the faulty DRL harness.

I should have taken pictures, sorry, but it is easy to do, and is a good project for electrical newbies. If you have any questions let me know.

Last edited by Cab0oze; 07-25-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 06:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Sparkle View Post
I used the side marker bulb hole to feed the c light wire through. The grommet fit perfectly and I just used silicon to seal it up. I figured since the c light also functions as the side marker now there was no need to keep the bulb in.
this is also what i did, but i left the sidemarker bulbs inside because i'm not sure if taking it off might cause some disruption to the continuity of the circuit. how's it working out for you?
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:58 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cab0oze View Post
I ended up making my own harness. Cost me nothing, all you need is a couple feet of wire.

I didn't re-read the instructions posted here, so there is probably not any new info, but whatever.
1. Unplug and remove DRL resistor.
2. I used a spare pin i had to plug straight into the connector that was originally plugged to the DRL resistor, but you could also start the harness with a T-Tap. Either way you do it, you want to connect to the green wire which carries the DRL power.
3. From the pin or T-Tap you will have a Y Harness - that is one wire to go to the pigtail harness/LED driver on each side of the car (the red wire in Diode Dynamics case). For me, one of the wires was only an inch long, because the DRL resistor was on the drivers side, and my red DD DRL wire i needed to connect it to was right there. The other wire needs to be long enough to route it over to the other side of the car.
4. If you have a newer diode dynamics pigtail harness (the 4 wires), they are improperly made such that all the wires are bundled together, which isn't helpful. Extract the red wire from each (and yellow if you didn't already do it, because I have no idea how you would get that down to your fog lights otherwise
5. At each end of the Y harness you made, crimp on a spade connector. Plug that into the DD harness on each side, and you're in business.

Works perfectly, and Diode Dynamics gave me a refund for the faulty DRL harness.

I should have taken pictures, sorry, but it is easy to do, and is a good project for electrical newbies. If you have any questions let me know.
Thanks for the instructions. When you wire the C-Light up in this way, you would want to run the white and black wires from the C-Light driver to the power wires from the existing factory c-light correct? When wired like this, the DD C-light will run at full brightness when getting the DRL signal from the green wire, and dim when the parking lights are turned on?

I am currently using the DD DRL harness. That cluster of wires and resistors combined with the short high beam leads is a major pain in the ass to mount cleanly. I'd prefer to get rid of it. I have both sides wired up identically, but my drivers side high beam flickers if I turn on the high beams with the car off. It's not a big deal, but it just makes me feel like it's half assed.

Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2017, 06:58 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by themullet View Post
Thanks for the instructions. When you wire the C-Light up in this way, you would want to run the white and black wires from the C-Light driver to the power wires from the existing factory c-light correct? When wired like this, the DD C-light will run at full brightness when getting the DRL signal from the green wire, and dim when the parking lights are turned on?

I am currently using the DD DRL harness. That cluster of wires and resistors combined with the short high beam leads is a major pain in the ass to mount cleanly. I'd prefer to get rid of it. I have both sides wired up identically, but my drivers side high beam flickers if I turn on the high beams with the car off. It's not a big deal, but it just makes me feel like it's half assed.

Thanks.
Yeah, sounds like you're having a totally different problem than me (with the flickering) but with the same root cause. And yes, the wires and resistors is a big mess. I don't know how things work with the factory C-Light, but yes, what you're explaining sounds correct, so if I were you I would try wiring it up, and if it works permanently remove the DD DRL harness and ask for a refund (since it isn't working anyway by the sounds of it)... or ask for the refund first, just to be sure you can get it.
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:04 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cab0oze View Post
Yeah, sounds like you're having a totally different problem than me (with the flickering) but with the same root cause. And yes, the wires and resistors is a big mess. I don't know how things work with the factory C-Light, but yes, what you're explaining sounds correct, so if I were you I would try wiring it up, and if it works permanently remove the DD DRL harness and ask for a refund (since it isn't working anyway by the sounds of it)... or ask for the refund first, just to be sure you can get it.
Cool thanks Cab0oze. Yeah I actually made a little bracket to hold the resistors off the headlight housing because the instructions said they get too hot to be in contact with plastic. Sounds good though. I'll bust out the test leads. Figures, I just put the bumper back on so I could drive to work.
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:24 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by themullet View Post
Cool thanks Cab0oze. Yeah I actually made a little bracket to hold the resistors off the headlight housing because the instructions said they get too hot to be in contact with plastic. Sounds good though. I'll bust out the test leads. Figures, I just put the bumper back on so I could drive to work.
Yeah, same thing happened to me... Put everything together, and had to tear it all back apart like a day later when the flickering started. Good luck!
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Old 02-20-2017, 10:25 AM   #41
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Unhappy Totally Borked!

Worked on this project for over 8 hours this weekend and in the end almost none of it is working.

What works:
Low Beams
New C-Lights steady white (No change in brightness)
Lack of DLR halogen from the high beams
Bumper Turn Signals

What's broke:
C-Light Turn Signals
Highbeams

Where we are at right now:
Diode Dynamics Harness:
White -> Side Marker Red
Black -> Side Marker Black
Yellow -> Turn signal feed from tested grey from the bumper
Red -> DRL feed from the DRL harness

We tapped into the side marker red and black here:


We tapped into the turn signal grey that we verified as the blinker with a volt meter.


Here is the far simpler DLR harness. Not much to mess up here as it plugs into the standard bulb connectors.


All we get is low beam on and off, and a steady white C-Light. No turn signal even with the bumper ones still blinking. Also no high-beams at all.

Eight hours this weekend we are totally lost.

Any tips or pointing out of errors would be much appreciated. We started early Saturday and Monday I wasn't able to use my car to commute to work. I need to get this working!

Called the manufacturer. They where very polite. And didn't have any suggestions other than carefully checking everything again.

Last edited by MCMunroe; 02-20-2017 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 01:14 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by MCMunroe View Post
Any tips or pointing out of errors would be much appreciated. We started early Saturday and Monday I wasn't able to use my car to commute to work. I need to get this working!

Called the manufacturer. They where very polite. And didn't have any suggestions other than carefully checking everything again.
I have some tips, and will help when I am not on my phone and have some free time. One thing to ck first though- unplug the harness from the t-taps and re-verify that you're getting the expected signal still (i.e. rule out bad t-tap connections, which happen VERY frequently)

-edit-
Something else: my pigtail had bad connections and caused me to chase an issue (that didn't exist) with the T-Taps for hours. Check that the pigtail is not at fault with the multimeter as well.

Last edited by Cab0oze; 02-20-2017 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:12 PM   #43
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We took the time to check continuity with all the taps. Every one checked out.
We also took a jump start battery to apply power to just the yellow and ground, and both sets lit up yellow.

Back in the car. Put everything back.

The passenger side:
White C-light
No C-light turn signal.
Has Bumper turn signal.
No highbeams or DRL.

Driver Side:
White C-light
Brightens when I hit highbeams
No C-light turn signal.
Has Bumper turn signal.
No highbeams or DRL.
Oddly when I switch fog lights on I get yellow. (OK. Have to check that)


Sadly my father-in law and I have put in 12 hours and threw our hands up in frustration and have put the bumper back on so I can get to work.

Our driver from Diode Dynamics where marked Type C. He wonders if we have the wrong switchback driver.
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Old 02-21-2017, 06:10 AM   #44
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Could be a bad driver, but the ambers coming on with the fogs makes me think you have a funky combination of installation error with bad connections.

Please confirm you checked the pigtail's continuity as well, as I suspect they have QC problems with the crimps. That was my problem as I mentioned.

Finally, regarding the DRL. You sure you're doing the right thing to get it to activate? Car needs to be ON, ebrake off, and not sure about with automatics if that's what you have, but probably in gear too.
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:04 AM   #45
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Driver Side:
We checked continuity on the driver side yellow tap, but we did the driver side last, and we obviously tapped the fog light. The turn signal looks like it would work if we tapped the turn signal in the bumper as instructed.
I don't have DRL halogen, or high beam halogen. That is a concern.
When I turn on high beams, the C-Light Brightens.

Passenger Side:
We are thinking that something is honestly bad. We checked the turn signal feed with the multimeter and got the pulsed signal as expected.
When I turn on the high beams, the C-Light stays the same.
I don't have DRL halogen, or high beam halogen. That is a concern.
No turn signal on the C-Light.
My father in law (owns a large car repair/ body shop) thinks that the "little box" (he's a classic car guy) is bad.

We should check the Diode Dynamic Pigtails continuity, more and thoroughly.

I honestly don't have info on C-light DRL function as it's always been dark and late and the head lights have been on. Seems the car needs to be running and in gear and no e-brake for DRLs. I usually check the DRLs by getting behind a shiny car in traffic.

Last edited by MCMunroe; 02-21-2017 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:11 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Cab0oze View Post
Finally, regarding the DRL. You sure you're doing the right thing to get it to activate? Car needs to be ON, ebrake off, and not sure about with automatics if that's what you have, but probably in gear too.
The fact that I can't turn on highbeams at all, shows something is not right.
The DRL kit looks hard to screw up. It just plugs into the bulb plugs and then the one red wire to the C-Light driver.
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:43 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by MCMunroe View Post
We tapped into the turn signal grey that we verified as the blinker with a volt meter.
This project turned into quite an ordeal for me as well. As far as the turn signal, and I have a base model so this may be different, but the wires going to the factory turn signals are blue and black, not grey. I know you said you confirmed the gray wire was turn, but it might be worth rechecking. (I thought a little more about this, and the blue and black wires are just the pigtail going to the bulb housing. The wire feeding the pigtail might be a different color. I'll try to check on that.)

The DRL harness eliminates the factory DRL and sends the signal to the LED driver (red wire) and is supposed to brighten the C light. Just clarifying because by your post it seemed like you were still expecting to have halogen DRL. Also, with this DRL harness, the high beams will not function while the car is off. This is true for my installation anyway.

I ended up ditching all of the T-Tap connectors. They work sometimes, but often when you route or bend the wires, they lose connection. I just soldered everything.

edit: Another thing to check is the connections to the resistors on the DRL harness. The wires are short and it forces the connection to the resistor to be at a 90 degree angle or less. I had to solder one of them.

Last edited by themullet; 02-22-2017 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:56 PM   #48
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"I don't have DRL halogen, or high beam halogen. That is a concern. "

I phrased that wrong the second time. I meant:
I don't have DRL halogen (good).
I don't have high beam halogen (bad).

I did notice that when I flash the high beams the low beams flash on. I don't recall if it did that before or not.
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:59 PM   #49
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I finally was able to check the day time running lights. Right now I only have a driver side C-light working as DRL.
Piddidle.

I don't think I'll have time to take off the bumper to check everything again until the weekend.

Thank you for all the replies guys.

More:
Called Diode Dynamics. They suggested taking it to a authorized installer at this point. I used there map and there are no installers within Minnesota. Or 200 miles.
I am working with Gary a mechanic with 30 years experience, not complete clueless people.

Last edited by MCMunroe; 02-21-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 04:16 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCMunroe View Post
"I don't have DRL halogen, or high beam halogen. That is a concern. "

I phrased that wrong the second time. I meant:
I don't have DRL halogen (good).
I don't have high beam halogen (bad).

I did notice that when I flash the high beams the low beams flash on. I don't recall if it did that before or not.
Gotchya. Let us know what you find out.
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