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Old 09-25-2015, 01:34 AM   #1
Bikelok
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Default Bugeye Morette wiring guide. Hopefully the last one needed

I know, I know, there is loads of info on this and these lights are not very common. As well as getting up there in years. I'm writing this because I had to go back and fourth to get the info I needed and even then it was just a bit confusing. So I decided to make a one stop shop for this info AND make it simple and clear.



This could not be done without the postings of two people. Leeturbo2000 over at ScoobyNet and Mulder who is all over this site.



Ok, I lucked into (or so I hoped) a set of real rough Bugeye Morettes. The covers were cracked and the wiring was a total mess.



Here is a pic of the wire mess:







Here is a cover in process:







Now as far as re-wiring them, by far the easiest and best way is to dump all the relays they come with. They are redundant and not necessary. I understand why they used them, but in practice they are not worth the trouble and complication.

Here is the best way to wire them up. The high and low beam positive leads are combined and go the the cars positive terminal. The high beam ground goes to the cars switched ground. The low beam ground goes directly to the fender wall ground and the battery ground. This allows the highs and lows on simultaneously (not the OEM configuration).

Edit: For optional wiring for OEM configuration (only highs or lows on at one time) look at post 6.


You remove all the relays and the wires that connects both headlights together. Wired this way you can run the high and low beams together.

I think the following pictures explain it best.




The two gray positive wires from the high and the low are combined and go to the terminal that leads to the center pin on the headlight connector. The high beam ground goes to the terminal that leads to the right pin on the connector if the connector is oriented with the CURVED side DOWN.

Test fitting set up.

Not soldered or wrapped.







Close up of wires to adaptor terminal. Orientation of terminal plug, is the middle terminal is away from you:







Close up of wire to adaptor pin out routing. This picture shows the connector oriented with the CURVED side UP:

[img][https://i.imgur.com/jPhPxz5.jpg/img]





Final new wiring:





If your lights don't have socket adaptors, you can pick up something like this and cut off the male end.





9007 socket adaptors found here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5A...G9K8KA4S82321W



DO NOT CUT YOUR WIRE HARNESS TO SPLICE INTO!!!!!!!

Get the proper connectors as this will save you major headaches later (not to mention that it's hard on resale if your harness is jacked up).



Morette bulbs:

Low: H7

High: H1

City: 194

Turn: PY21W (yellow)

Edit: the DRL (daytime running lights) should be disabled. Here is a link on how to do so.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1866966
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Last edited by Bikelok; 03-29-2017 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:35 AM   #2
Bikelok
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Default Bugeye Morette wiring guide. Hopefully the last one needed

Finished product:


City lights:


City lights and low beams:


High and low beam:

Wired this way you can run the highs and lows at the same time.

Edit: Again go to post 6 if you want to wire it like OEM. Lows or highs but not together.

And here is a link to leeturbo2000's post.
http://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-an...g-diagram.html
Mulder's posts are easy to search here on NASIOC.

Last edited by Bikelok; 03-29-2017 at 12:37 AM.
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Old 09-27-2015, 12:34 PM   #3
Bikelok
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Damaged lenses can be replaced with first generation Mazda Tribute fog lenses.
Here is a link to a post that describes it.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1753161

Converting right hand drive beam pattern to U.S. correct left hand drive pattern (flipping shield) can be found here:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1834818

Last edited by Bikelok; 01-14-2017 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 09-27-2015, 01:29 PM   #4
ride5000
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nice write up.

the only thing i question is running both beams simultaneously.

indeed it puts out more lumens, but the reasoning behind disabling low beams whilst highs are on is to reduce extraneous nearfield/foreground light which would only end up closing your pupils more. the same goes for disabling fogs while high beaming.
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:19 PM   #5
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
nice write up.

the only thing i question is running both beams simultaneously.

indeed it puts out more lumens, but the reasoning behind disabling low beams whilst highs are on is to reduce extraneous nearfield/foreground light which would only end up closing your pupils more. the same goes for disabling fogs while high beaming.

Thanks and point taken.

Well I have not had time to install the lights on my car yet. I'll have to wait another week or so before I can do so. I'll give it a try and see how it goes. If I don't like it I'll figure something else out. My gut tells me that it should be fine.

Once they are in I'll take some beam pattern shots and post them. You can decide for yourself.
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:19 PM   #6
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For 'correct' operation of your lights (as ride5000 mentioned), you need to use all three wires from the Subaru plug. Subaru uses switched grounds and 'common' power to run the lights.

For 'correct' operation here is the wiring:
Use yellow (-) and brown (+) for low beams, and gray (-) and brown (+) for the high beams. It's as simple as that.

Here is the wiring for low beams always on, and highs on when you switch them on (As you outlined above):
Use brown (+) and battery nagative, and gray (-) and brown (+) for the high beams.

Enjoy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:30 PM   #7
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by circleT View Post
For 'correct' operation of your lights (as ride5000 mentioned), you need to use all three wires from the Subaru plug. Subaru uses switched grounds and 'common' power to run the lights.



For 'correct' operation here is the wiring:

Use yellow (-) and brown (+) for low beams, and gray (-) and brown (+) for the high beams. It's as simple as that.



Here is the wiring for low beams always on, and highs on when you switch them on (As you outlined above):

Use brown (+) and battery nagative, and gray (-) and brown (+) for the high beams.



Enjoy!

Thanks for posting.

I figured that out and I should have edited to included it as an optional wiring set up.
So here you've done it for me.
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:11 PM   #8
Bikelok
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Default Bugeye Morette wiring guide. Hopefully the last one needed

Ok sorry it took forever, I've had some medical issues that knocked me for a loop.

I've finally been able to take pictures of the high and low beam both on together. In a previous post it was pointed out that having both on together might not be ideal.



They are not the best pictures, but it's a start. Also I'd like to point out the previous owner installed a 35w 5000k HID system in the projectors. While I know this is not a great match, I figured I'll try them out. I can easily get rid of them and replace it with the proper halogen bulbs.



Here is the low beam pattern against a wall:



The correct left hand drive cut off. There is bleeding of the edges and a hot spot at the base of the elbow. Not great but ok for now. I confirmed I was not blinding oncoming traffic myself.





Here is the lows:





Here is both lows and highs:





Considering that I would only use my highs as a "flash" to signal others, I don't feel the need to go to the OEM configuration of only highs or lows at a time. The added info to go with the OEM wiring configuration is in post 6 if anyone wants to go that way. It's very easy to go either way.



How they look on the car:



Fit is ok, not great.





Finally, I'm not completely unhappy with the HID. Yes I think it could be SO MUCH better, but I'm not blinding oncoming traffic and it is better than the stock lights. I would still like to try the halogens just to compare. I would imagine they produce a better beam pattern.

I also think I'll look into getting HID modules to replace the halogen projectors as another option.



That's it for now. If I stumble on any thing else pertaining to Morettes I'll add it to try and keep it a "one stop shop" for these lights.

Last edited by Bikelok; 03-27-2016 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:17 PM   #9
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Has anyone tried to convert these with LED bulbs yet? My morrettes wiring is falling apart and it might be time to make a new harness and possibly ugrade with LED bulbs.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:40 PM   #10
Bikelok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z3RO View Post
Has anyone tried to convert these with LED bulbs yet? My morrettes wiring is falling apart and it might be time to make a new harness and possibly ugrade with LED bulbs.



Thoughts?


You might have to change the lenses to match the LED output.
If you carefully search you might find something that fits the housing.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:51 AM   #11
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z3RO View Post
Has anyone tried to convert these with LED bulbs yet? My morrettes wiring is falling apart and it might be time to make a new harness and possibly ugrade with LED bulbs.

Thoughts?
I believe the Morettes use the same 90mm Hella halogen low beam units as do the UK300. If that's the case, there are several 90mm Hella unit options, like this low beam only LED:
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...4060-lowbeams/

Chances are, the mounting points are compatible with the halogen version:
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...-beam-premium/

There's also a biLED option, but the dimensions may make it a bit challenging to fit:
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...bi-led-module/

As far as the wiring harness, if you just get a 9007/9004 wiring harness that is designed for biXenon, then you will have a working solution that keeps the low beams lit while the high beam is on. You'd have to check the pins of the input connector of the wiring to make sure it is set up correctly for the bugeye (i.e. 9007 instead of 9004, and ground switched instead of positive switched). I worked out the details and posted pictures in an HID planet thread somewhere.

If you get a low beam only wiring harness, that would also work if you keep the low and high beam units separate.
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:20 PM   #12
Mulder
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Maybe the early ones were Hellas, later ones used Valeo projectors.
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:25 PM   #13
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder View Post
Maybe the early ones were Hellas, later ones used Valeo projectors.
I see. In that case, those Hella 90mm ones may not have compatible mounting points.
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