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Old 10-05-2009, 01:20 PM   #1
xcdhridr
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Default lock nut for tie rod stuck (adjusting toe). Fix?

the front lock nut that tightens the tie rod to keep it from coming out/moving is stuck so I can't lock the alignment in place. I've tried PB and some heat to no avail and the control arms are now getting a little rounded from the 13mm slipping. Any ideas?

stock 04 wrx arms btw...
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Last edited by xcdhridr; 10-05-2009 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:32 PM   #2
PARANOID56
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i cant think of what you are talking about, so a pic might help. however, are you sure its 13mm? i cant think of any bolts on our car that is 13mm, only 12 and 14. also, make sure you are using 6pt sockets so you dont round off bolts.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:11 PM   #3
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crap. I said control arm but meant tie rod in the original...

I'm talking about the nut where it says loosen in this pic

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Old 10-05-2009, 02:13 PM   #4
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have you tried going the other direction? one side is RHD the other is LHD, if i'm not mistaken

T
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:26 PM   #5
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yup. tried both. It unscrewed from the outer tie rod assembly so I can move the whole unit. I just can't tighten the nut against the inner assembly.

Last edited by xcdhridr; 10-05-2009 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcdhridr View Post
yup. tried both. It unscrewed from the inner tie rod assembly so I can move the whole unit. I just can't tighten the nut against the inner assembly.
Sounds like you need some coffee.

Do you mean you can't tighten the nut against the outer tie rod?

Are you trying to say that when you put a 13mm (you might try 1/2", but I don't think that fits on my tie rod) on the tie rod, and a 19mm on the lock nut, you can't make the lock nut move on the tie rod? For me, the lock nut is finger loose once I un-jam it from the outer tie rod.

EDIT: Or, are you saying that you can't get the lock nut to un-jam from the outer tie rod? There should be flats for a 19mm or 3/4" wrench on the outer tie rod. So you put one 19mm / 3/4" on the jam nut, and one on the outer tie rod, and make SUPER sure you're turning the right way for which side of the car you're on. It can be tricky to get leverage under there.

-Mike
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:46 PM   #7
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I had to replace an outer tie rod because the lock nut wouldn't turn. The fact you actually unscrewed the inner tie rod from the rack is scary. That's not supposed to happen ever. It suggests the inner tie rod was replaced at some point and not installed properly/tight enough.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:51 PM   #8
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yes. coffee needed... asap


I meant outer tie rod.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:42 PM   #9
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you need heat.......im not talking some heat from a sissy propane. you need an acetylene torch and get just one side of the nut red hot so it expands enough to loosen whatever is seizing the nut to the tie rod.
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Old 10-05-2009, 05:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicaddict View Post
you need heat.......im not talking some heat from a sissy propane. you need an acetylene torch and get just one side of the nut red hot so it expands enough to loosen whatever is seizing the nut to the tie rod.
nah....propane will do the job

heat it up...put the wrench on and whack it with a hammer and all good
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Old 10-05-2009, 05:15 PM   #11
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I only have access to sissy propane... =(.

I might try lots of heat, a hammer, and 2-3 wrenches when I get home. It's stuck on both sides. dammit
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcdhridr View Post
I only have access to sissy propane... =(.

I might try lots of heat, a hammer, and 2-3 wrenches when I get home. It's stuck on both sides. dammit
if propane is all you have that will work it will just take a bit of time. but you need to hold that torch on there for a long time, till it gets red hot. hold the inner tie rod with vice grips and get a nice LONG wrench for the lock nut. once you break it free get your pb blaster ready and spray it on and work the lock nut back and forth so the blaster will get under the lock nut and you can spin it with just your fingers.


dont use a hammer. you could slip and mess up the threads, then your screwed. shouldnt need a hammer for anything.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicaddict View Post
if propane is all you have that will work it will just take a bit of time. but you need to hold that torch on there for a long time, till it gets red hot. hold the inner tie rod with vice grips and get a nice LONG wrench for the lock nut. once you break it free get your pb blaster ready and spray it on and work the lock nut back and forth so the blaster will get under the lock nut and you can spin it with just your fingers.


dont use a hammer. you could slip and mess up the threads, then your screwed. shouldnt need a hammer for anything.
Don't use your fingers until it cools off.

And if you're putting a 13mm on the inner tie rod, you're doing it wrong. Make sure you're using two 19mm, one on the outer tie rod, and one on the jam nut. And quadruple check that you really are turning it the correct direction.

And don't tighten it so much when you're done.

-Mike
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:21 PM   #14
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"big metal pipe" does it for me everytime and it's pretty strange to get Lhd\rhd jam nuts unless it is dual jam nuts like on the rear of an impalla

(and i hope you didn't mean left hand drive? but reverse threaded or left hand thread?)
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:35 PM   #15
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I don't believe they are left hand threaded. In fact, I'm pretty sure of it or all the RCA kits would need a left hand outer tie rod, and I'd be getting TONS of questions on it.

OP - heat and a candle. Get that puppy hot, and then press a candle up to the threads to "wick" some wax up under the nut.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:37 PM   #16
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got one side free. Passanger side is still good and stuck.

I used 2 13's and the torch on the drivers side for success.


You only need two 19's if your breaking the lock nut/tie rod free, otherwise you need 13's to adjust the in/out.

I didn't get the nut red hot when doing it. I heated it for a good two-3 minutes before trying anything and still no luck. I don't think I can get it red hot with the propane (or should I just let it soak in the heat for 5+minutes?)

PITA!. I gotta get something worked out before thursday. Friday I'm due for practice runs for the rally championships.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:09 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post

And if you're putting a 13mm on the inner tie rod, you're doing it wrong. Make sure you're using two 19mm, one on the outer tie rod, and one on the jam nut. And quadruple check that you really are turning it the correct direction.

And don't tighten it so much when you're done.

-Mike
both sides are lefty loosey righty tighty. putting a 19mm on the outer tie rod to loosen a seized jam nut will do absolutely nothing but turn the inner tie rod. you need to hold the inner rod steady.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
OP - heat and a candle. Get that puppy hot, and then press a candle up to the threads to "wick" some wax up under the nut.
not a bad idea, but once i get the nut hot enough and freed up i just walk it bach and forth with the wrench then and put a nice thin coat of anti seize on the threads, then walk it some more to work the grease up under the nut.
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:35 PM   #18
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Woot!!! went home during lunch. check the bolt and it moved!!!! I'm betting that all the heat last night while working on it just expanded the rod/tie as well so I couldn't move it. I let it soak in the pb blaster overnight (again!) and voila! Still will likely need a new tie rod in the future, but this one has had 20 plus alignments done to it...

=)
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:46 PM   #19
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I got so frustrated once I swapped out the entire rack. Well plus the extra one I had was a little bit quicker.
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:02 AM   #20
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Man this is a confusing thread. You are doing it right, lots of heat, I understand what you mean about the jamb nut backing off the outer tie rod and taking the inner tie rod with it.

Nothing scary or broken just a seized jamb nut. Glad you got it loose. Channel lock makes a pair of pliers with a curved jaw, they are a slip joint plier and the harder you push the tighter it grabs, I use them a lot on inner tie rods to break loose the jamb nut.

Also if you use heat don't adjust and then tighten it all down right away. The alignment changes a bit as the parts cool down. Thats why we charge an extra .5hr when we have to heat parts to align.
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