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Old 11-17-2016, 02:28 PM   #1
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Default HOW TO: Rotors, Pads, Lines, and Speed Bleeders Install - Subaru WRX 2008-2014

HOW TO: Installing Rotors, Pads, Lines, and Speed Bleeders - Subaru WRX 2008-2014

If you follow our project car thread, you've seen what happened to our stock brakes on a few laps around the road course. Here are the brakes we upgraded to. We also broke it down to provide a guide to installing them if you're going down the same road or if you are installing any set or combination of pads, rotors, and lines. Enjoy!

If you would like a downloadable copy to either print out, save, or email, please click here to download!

Pads and Rotors

Before we begin, if you are using this guide for a pad replacement only, you don’t have to fully remove the calipers. Only remove the entire caliper when you are replacing/machining the rotors too (which is usually the case).

1. Make sure you have the car properly supported in the air so that the tires are completely off the ground. We used a lift in this guide but if you have a floor jack and jack stands, that will work too! Break loose the lug nuts before the wheels are off the ground but do not fully unfasten them. Then, lift the car into the air with support and remove the lug nuts and take off the wheels.

2. Start by unfastening the outer part of the caliper. The caliper is a floating style which has 2 separate pieces that you need to remove. The first is the larger, outer part of the caliper. Once both bolts are out, slide it off the pads and rotor and place it somewhere in the suspension area so that it’s not hanging by the brake line or putting stress on it.

3. Next, remove the old brake pads using a flat head screwdriver or something similar.

4. Remove the inner part of the brake caliper that attaches to the steering knuckle.

5. Remove the brake rotor from the hub.

6. Slide the new or machined rotor onto the hub.

7. Using a wire brush, clean off any debris or dust from the calipers. It’s good to start with a clean caliper so that nothing gets in between the pad and the rotor or puts off any debris around the area.

8. Put the inner part of the caliper back on the steering knuckle. Don’t fasten down all the way tight yet.

9. Prepare the new pads with the provided grease and/or shims.

10. Insert the new pads into the inner part of the caliper while it’s on the car.

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Last edited by EdgeAutosport.com; 11-17-2016 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 11-17-2016, 02:29 PM   #2
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11. Prepare the outer part of the caliper by compressing the caliper pistons inward to make room to slide over the newer and most likely, thicker (than the used one you took off) brake pad.

12. Take the outer part of the caliper with the pistons now compressed in and slide it over the back of the pads and over the rotor.

13. Fasten all bolts back on to the caliper.

14. Although it may not be necessary, itís a good idea to bleed the brakes to get any possible air out of the line. Weíre putting on new lines, so weíll bleed the brakes after we do that.

One thing to note, when removing the rear brake rotor, make sure the e-brake is not engaged otherwise, the rotor will not come off.

If you arenít replacing the brake lines, youíre done! The same instructions pretty much apply to all 4 brakes and calipers. If you are, read onÖ

Changing the brake lines

15. Remove the line from the brake line bracket first.

16. Loosen and remove the fitting from the hard side of the line where it meets the rubber part of the line that leads to the caliper. It helps to clean off the fitting first. If it has grease and dirt on it (it probably does), it will make it harder for the wrench to grip properly and could round off the fitting. That would be a bad day.

17. At this point, there is exposed fluid and you donít want to expose it for too long or else too much fluid will drain out of the line. Keep a towel handy and try to keep the fluid from getting on anything. Brake fluid can be corrosive to paint and can dangerous if absorbed into the skin.

18. Now, insert the new line onto the hard line. Doing this first will help prevent brake fluid spillage for a few moments while it drips into the new line. Keep the new line as high as you can. Use a zip tie or similar fastener to keep it propped up if you can.

19. Remove the banjo bolt fitting on the caliper side. Again, avoid any fluid from dripping or spilling. Itíll be a little messy. Just donít let TOO much spill everywhere.

20. Now, set the old line out of the way and quickly attach the new line with the banjo fitting and the 2 crush washers properly in place, one of the bolt head side, and one on the caliper side of the banjo fitting.

21. Reattach the new line to the brake line bracket that holds it in place on the car.

22. Before you move to the next corner to replace a line, make sure the brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max line so that it doesnít get too low and let air in the master cylinder. That would be very bad.

23. Once you have put on all the lines. At this point, you MUST bleed your brakes. There is a lot of air in every line and caliper that was unsealed.


Last edited by EdgeAutosport.com; 11-17-2016 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 11-17-2016, 02:42 PM   #3
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Bleeding the brakes.

If you keep the stock bleeder screws, then you’re making life harder than it needs to be. If you can spare a few more bucks and get speed bleeder screws, they make this job a heck of a lot easier and you don’t have to use an extra set of hands from a friend. A speed bleeder has a check valve built inside of it to allow brake fluid and air to move out of the caliper but does not let it back in, unlike a traditional bleeder screw. We installed speed bleeders in all 4 calipers. Here is how to do it.

24. Remove the factory bleeder screw with a wrench. Since this is at the top of the caliper where the air comes through, there shouldn’t be any fluid that comes out just from removing it but it’s still good to have a rag handy for a little fluid coming out.

25. Simply screw the new speed bleeder screw into the caliper until it hits the bottom. Do all 4 before bleeding. Make sure all other screws from calipers not currently being bled are tight while bleeding one caliper.

26. Once all 4 are installed, start with the caliper closest to the master cylinder. Open the bleeder screw about Ĺ turn.

27. Attach a clear tube to the bleeder screw valve and make sure it’s tight enough so that it won’t come off with a little pressure or fluid exiting. Make sure the tubing leads to a cup or bottle or other safe container for brake fluid. The Russell Speed Bleeder Bag is a super easy and clean solution to this.

28. To force air bubbles out of the caliper, simply leave the bleeder screw open Ĺ turn and go inside the car and pump the brakes several times. If you are only getting air out of the lines, proceed to pump until there are no bubbles that have come out within proximity to the bleeder screw in the line. Be careful NOT to let the brake fluid in the reservoir go below minimum on each
caliper bleeding process. Don’t worry about needing to get out of your car and fill it back up while bleeding. That’s what the speed bleeders are for. They close automatically while you’re not using them.

IF YOU ARE NOT USING SPEED BLEEDERS, you have to close the bleeder screw at the bottom of every press of the brake. Then, you let the brake pedal back up, push it a few times to build pressure, then open the bleeder screw again and repeat the process. You need a second set of hands to do this. There are other ways including vacuum pumps and pressure bleeders but I believe this is the best way outside of the speed bleeders.

29. You should see a solid fluid color through the line coming off the bleeder. Once that happens, close the bleed screw and remove the tubing. Move to the next caliper that is closest to the master cylinder and repeat the process.

After doing all 4, you’re done! Make sure once you start your car that you have good pressure on the brake pedal and that it does NOT sink to the floor easily. When the car is off, it should feel very solid after pumping it once or twice.
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