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Old 04-28-2018, 09:56 PM   #30551
flyboy1100
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i need to do that this fall on my car and excursion.
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:00 PM   #30552
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I'm really impressed with how it's holding up. The only areas I really need to do better are the side skirts. I don't want to remove them to spray and it won't really get in there from underneath.

I recommend spraying up into where the license plate lights are, it started creeping out of the top of the trim , it appears that area under the trim between the hatch button and subie badge is all open, salt will for sure get stuck in there.

Not sure how well it works on existing rust, but it supposed to stop it from getting worse.
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:07 PM   #30553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I'm really impressed with how it's holding up. The only areas I really need to do better are the side skirts. I don't want to remove them to spray and it won't really get in there from underneath.

I recommend spraying up into where the license plate lights are, it started creeping out of the top of the trim , it appears that area under the trim between the hatch button and subie badge is all open, salt will for sure get stuck in there.

Not sure how well it works on existing rust, but it supposed to stop it from getting worse.
my excursion didn't see much crap weather days this winter and was pretty dang clean underneath, it is worse now even with minimal driving. my car is finally starting to show but it gets washed 1-3x per week all winter long
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Old 04-28-2018, 10:14 PM   #30554
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If you do use it don't get undercarriage wash since it will remove the film quicker. I only wash about once a month if that.

After my second spray it has built up to a thick protective sludge. I am only going to do the areas that get hit with road spray next year.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:27 AM   #30555
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my car seems more gutless than it used to be when in MT. every freaking hill i went up yesterday i lost speed in 5th. I used to be able to hold speed until the grades got too steep, but maybe i am misremember. i swapped to the 91 tune after 650 miles for the last 110 or so and it helped, but still lost 5-8mph going uphill, but that is better than 15-20! so ridiculous. Even if the Kreen slows my oil consumption i don't know what to think
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Old 05-01-2018, 02:41 PM   #30556
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I've noticed my car has been slower as well, but for different reasons. It's almost as though something is dragging the car down, its pretty noticeable when you're driving and let off the gas - you can feel the car slow instead of cruising at speed. Hard to explain.

On the plus side, I finally installed new rotors and pads in the fronts this weekend - what a difference having a 2 car garage makes. If I had to do it over again, I would have put on new bolts all around for the caliper brackets, mine were pretty rusted on the exposed areas. Next time I lubricate the pads I'll probably swap them out. I'll be interested to see how the Centric GCX rotors hold up to New England winters and corrosion. My stock rotors were pretty bad
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:42 PM   #30557
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Mine seems to feel pretty strong now that it has warmed up finally,

Though today I had to run the AC and it feels like a super slug with it on.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:49 PM   #30558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Mine seems to feel pretty strong now that it has warmed up finally,

Though today I had to run the AC and it feels like a super slug with it on.
temps were about perfect, 45-50F, no AC on. but probably 7%+ grades
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Old 05-02-2018, 06:27 AM   #30559
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I used to tinny tpms was really dumb since it would only come on when your tires were low enough to visibly see them bulging but something else they do...

So 2 weeks ago I checked my tires pressurss and set them all to 33psi and yesterday my tpms light went on so I thought great I hit a nail or something.

I get home and check fine pressures and all the tires are at 41 psi. 2 weeks ago we got 20" of snow and it was in the 20s when I filled them up, yesterday it was 80 out and the air pressure went up from the heat.

The tpms let me know when they were way too high which I didn't realize it did.
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:07 PM   #30560
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Rule of thumb is 1psi/10F change. I check mine weekly, all 4 vehicles
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Old 05-05-2018, 09:38 PM   #30561
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well, looks like I am following in keen's footsteps of engine removal.....light came on at about 1770 miles from fresh oil change. every single time is a bit earlier than the last. Kreen didn't help, I was hopeful, but i guess no amount of cleaning can fix piss poor engineering.

time to start junkyard engine shopping.

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Old 05-06-2018, 12:06 AM   #30562
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Tough break. Any reason not to run it into the ground?
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:21 AM   #30563
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Commander keen... Love it takes me back
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:18 AM   #30564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Tough break. Any reason not to run it into the ground?


Exhaust manifold/cats are more expensive than a junkyard engine. New O2 sensors also worth 1/3 cost of junkyard engine.
And I occasionally use my car for work purposes

Im really curious about your engine and the oil cap test, the amount of air that comes out of mine is straight ridiculous.

side note, it does appear that I averaged 29ish mpg to MT and back last week, so at least that wasn't as bad as the last time i did it. 80 on interstate, 70-75 elsewhere.

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-06-2018 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 05-06-2018, 09:43 AM   #30565
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That sucks to hear, sorry flyboy, what a PITA.

My worst oil consumption was when we went on a road trip - fresh oil change before we left, low oil light came on after 1400 miles I believe...so I was burning 1.1qts in 1400 miles.

Good luck with the install if you find a newer engine
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Old 05-06-2018, 11:07 AM   #30566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
That sucks to hear, sorry flyboy, what a PITA.

My worst oil consumption was when we went on a road trip - fresh oil change before we left, low oil light came on after 1400 miles I believe...so I was burning 1.1qts in 1400 miles.

Good luck with the install if you find a newer engine
there are a few within a few hundred miles of me.

1. 2013 from XV CVT with 24k for 550
2. 2014 from Impreza 5MT with 2.7k for 975.
3. 2012 from impreza CVT with 15k for 395
4. 2014 from Impreza CVT with 17k for 395
5. 2014 from Impreza CVT with 24k for 695

kinda want at least 2013 or 2014 preferably. for some reason all the MT engines are more expensive than CVT. but subaru isn't going to build seperate crankshafts for a MT and CVT transmissions...

the bolts are different but probably due to what gets mounted?

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-06-2018 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:29 PM   #30567
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Quote:
the bolts are different but probably due to what gets mounted?
That's what it looked like in the FSM. CVT engines will have different coolant hoses due to the trans warmer, but you can reuse yours.

When were rings revised, '14? That 17K engine looks like a great deal.

The oil cap test might not be a good measure. Pressure pulses in the crankcase are normal and it doesn't necessarily indicate pressure buildup. Did you ever get a long release of pressure when opening the cap, like a Coke bottle?
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:49 PM   #30568
DieselDorf
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So how many miles till you burned a quart? Just wondering for science purposes...
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:35 AM   #30569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
So how many miles till you burned a quart? Just wondering for science purposes...


1700ish now, its only getting worse
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:37 AM   #30570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
That's what it looked like in the FSM. CVT engines will have different coolant hoses due to the trans warmer, but you can reuse yours.

When were rings revised, '14? That 17K engine looks like a great deal.

The oil cap test might not be a good measure. Pressure pulses in the crankcase are normal and it doesn't necessarily indicate pressure buildup. Did you ever get a long release of pressure when opening the cap, like a Coke bottle?


No pressure release i hear, but that could be because the pressure is high enough my pcv doesn't close?

The 2014 for 395 looks a bit sketchy from pics due to where the crash impact was but supposed to still run fine
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Old 05-08-2018, 08:35 AM   #30571
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Not up for a 2.5 swap?

Are you gonna give SOA a call? I still think its worth a shot, you have a 2012 which is the worst of the worst in terms of oil consumption. They've already done a lot with warranties, TSBs etc that they may throw you a bone.
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Old 05-08-2018, 02:12 PM   #30572
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The more I'm thinking about my appointment tomorrow at my Subaru dealer, the more I'm thinking they won't cover my oil leak under the extended 100k warranty. From what I can remember, people thought that the extended warranty only covers oil consumption right?

I probably should have taken my car in earlier, I took it in a couple years ago after the shortblock and they saw the small leak, cleaned it and said to keep an eye on it. Either way, hopefully it isn't a problem that will get worse over time. I'm about done with owning this car
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:09 PM   #30573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
Not up for a 2.5 swap?



Are you gonna give SOA a call? I still think its worth a shot, you have a 2012 which is the worst of the worst in terms of oil consumption. They've already done a lot with warranties, TSBs etc that they may throw you a bone.


Cant get throttlehappy to answer my question. 2012 is about the only year it can work but he won't tell me if mine can.

Plan now is super low mileage engine + lightweight flywheel and brz clutch kit.
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:15 PM   #30574
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Quote:
I probably should have taken my car in earlier, I took it in a couple years ago after the shortblock and they saw the small leak, cleaned it and said to keep an eye on it. Either way, hopefully it isn't a problem that will get worse over time. I'm about done with owning this car
Timing cover leak? Is that all that's wrong with your car?
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:07 PM   #30575
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Trying to find out what changed mechanically in 2015-2016, anyone know? I know 2017 got direct injection right? But any reason a 2015-16 engine wouldn't just plug and play? There are quite a few 2015-16 engines at the 2nd place below for 895 plus whatever else id listed below

Closest to me engine is 2013 w24k for 550(after 50.00 core and 35 to get the alternator with the engine and tax, looking like 675.00). He said it would come with exhaust manifolds so that might actually be a decent deal....

Next option is the 2014 with 17k for 395 + 150 core, no accessories, tax and driving there = about same 675. Unsure of manifolds, need to inquire. Edit: no intake or manifolds, so no thanks. Every engine this pace has they strip everything off i guess. Dumb is there really a market for fb20 parts? Seriously?

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-09-2018 at 09:30 AM.
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