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Old 03-11-2021, 10:33 PM   #31726
IHaveAHorse
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Just a small update, not really important but the 215/45-17 tires fit fine, nowhere near rubbing which I knew was gonna happen even though the Subaru dealer was giving me crap. Although the lugnuts aren't on super deep like they used to be on my steel wheels and some other wheels I've owned, I think they're still about 5/8" or more onto the threads but there's a very noticeable gap of threads at the end where the wheel studs don't reach. It's very weird because they're 2013 Impreza wheels on my 2012, so they should be fine, although these are open-ended nuts and I assume what comes on these alloy wheels from the factory is closed-end to make it look nicer, so you wouldn't notice that gap that might be there.
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Old 03-12-2021, 11:46 AM   #31727
Cujo31
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Interesting to watch, Everything you ever wanted to know about Subaru CVT's;
if you've got some time; he's always really wordy...
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Old 03-12-2021, 02:24 PM   #31728
IHaveAHorse
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I think I've seen some of that video before, it's very informative.

Does anyone know if Crosstrek coilovers fit the Imprezas? And does anyone have any advice as to what spring rate I should stay around if I do upgrade springs/coilovers? Looking around at some coilovers, a lot of them you can order with different spring rates, often in "k" (kg/mm I guess?) more often than lb/inch.

Place that mounted my tires and switched the winter tires/wheels out noted my struts are starting to get a tiny bit leaky, if I'm gonna start doing major suspension maintenance I'd definitely consider coilovers (actually largely for not having to separate the springs and struts) but I don't want a drop at all, maybe even a small lift since I haul lots of heavy sand/soil occasionally and curbs/driveways can be very steep here.

Last edited by IHaveAHorse; 03-12-2021 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 03-13-2021, 02:53 PM   #31729
CalTech87
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Theres an entire thread about lowering. May be able to find some suspension info there.
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Old 03-13-2021, 05:39 PM   #31730
IHaveAHorse
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thanks, I'll look for it
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Old 03-15-2021, 04:01 PM   #31731
Ladeef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protivakid View Post
My CVT is still going well at 110k however if you search there are a lot that have had issues. It's even worse when you look at the WRX guys with the beefier Subaru CVT, they've been able to kill those in just 30k.
A lot of people posting on forums, it's all relative. 99% of people aren't having problems.
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Old 03-15-2021, 06:53 PM   #31732
motorace
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well, it wasnt my transmission after all. ignition coil cylinder #3 caused the shuttering. $650 gone.
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Old 03-15-2021, 11:02 PM   #31733
IHaveAHorse
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Ignition issues sure seem to act like a broken transmission a lot. Friend's old F250 was "bucking" at a certain speed range, felt like someone was stabbing the brakes a little bit every 1-2 seconds and it was just the ignition coil(s).
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Old 03-16-2021, 08:20 PM   #31734
Ladeef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorace View Post
well, it wasnt my transmission after all. ignition coil cylinder #3 caused the shuttering. $650 gone.
$650 for an ignition coil? or is that labor too?
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:12 PM   #31735
motorace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladeef View Post
$650 for an ignition coil? or is that labor too?
when dealer called, told me ignition coil, 650. receipt when picked up, all sorts of crap on it. hate dealers. i'd attach a pic of receipt, but dont see that option.

ignition coil
169.50 parts
304 labor

top engine clean
31.95 parts
128 labor

shop supplies 49.95

taxes, $50 discount. doesnt even add up.
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:40 AM   #31736
IHaveAHorse
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I wouldn't go back to that dealer if possible... it should be an hour of labor (really like 20 minutes) for an ignition coil which is maybe $150 at a super overpriced dealer, $300 is 2 hours of labor or beyond absurd price for 1 hour. Either way they're scammers, horrible to think about what they're doing to older people who don't know any better.
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Old 03-31-2021, 01:37 AM   #31737
Pelco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
And does anyone have any advice as to what spring rate I should stay around if I do upgrade springs/coilovers? Looking around at some coilovers, a lot of them you can order with different spring rates, often in "k" (kg/mm I guess?) more often than lb/inch.
I am running Fortune Auto 500 coilovers for the 2008+ wrx hatch. 8k/8k front and back. While I am lowered, 1.5", you can actually run these coils higher than stock struts.
The spring rates with dampening completely loose was a very nice compliant ride. If you are unsure of 8k, then you can always drop to 7k/7k it will be softer. I wouldn't go lower than 6k on coils.
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Old 03-31-2021, 01:49 AM   #31738
Pelco
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Recently. I did a bit of a brake upgrade on my 2016 Impreza Sport.

Taking the front brake caliper brackets from the crosstrek:
Left side - 26225SC030
Right side - 26225SC020

I am now able to run ~295mm rotors instead of the stock ~275mm.

I did it for the thermal capacity and technically the brake torque should be greater with a larger diameter rotor.

Its basically an OEM+ style upgrade. For reference, the 2018+ impreza sport uses the same rotor size of the crosstrek. But the 2012-2016 Imprezas all have the smaller rotors.

I call it the poor man's big brake kit, since it still utilizes the front 2 pot slider calipers. The increase in weight with the rotors I chose are 1.1kg per disc.


https://www.instagram.com/p/CM52ch-saOT/?igshid=vsgcu1he31l4

Speaking of oem+. You can also upgrade the from sway bar from 22mm to 24mm too. Taken from the crosstrek.

Toodles
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:36 AM   #31739
IHaveAHorse
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I've been thinking about going to semi metallic pads with my next brake job, not a huge fan of the low initial bite of ceramic pads.
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Old 06-14-2021, 04:01 PM   #31740
flyboy1100
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Thats good to know!
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Old 06-20-2021, 02:17 PM   #31741
jbooerns14
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Anyone with experience upgrading the suspension on a 2012 sport premium? It has 95k so about probably in the window for new struts soon anyway. I don't want to slam it or make it rattle my fillings out, just tighten it up from stock. Coilovers are too much, I'd pay for way more than I really need. Im guessing some something like swaybars and a strut/spring combo. Everything is currently stock, CVT (I know), Michelin AS 4 (highly recommend). Appreciate any advice.
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Old 06-23-2021, 10:13 AM   #31742
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza thread

I just replaced all my suspension with 100% brand new OEM. I ordered everything to build up the struts to just swap them in. You need a really good compressor or just bring the fronts to a shop, i couldnít get those by myself. I did this at 210k, only reason was one of my top bearings was worn out, shocks actually still did what they were supposed too! But the new ones are tighter and the bumps are absorbed a little better, overall very impressed with OEM which is why i used OEM to replace them


Also just rebuilt the front LCAs, pressed in new OEM bushings and new OEM Ball joints. The bushings were about done, ball jointís were still ok.

Also replaced the rear LCA with the whiteline kit so now my rear camber is adjustable. Running -1.7 in front and -1.1/-1.2 in the rear. Handles great

And I just swapped my front seats for some 20k mile 2017 wrx seats. i should have done that years ago!




Just went on a 4200mi road trip and some of this was done before and some after. Car has about 215k on it now! Good for another 150k!

On the trip lost a u joint, should have checked it sooner, good thing low mile driveshafts are plentiful in junkyards for cheap!
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:47 AM   #31743
DieselDorf
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Good to see them at high mileage!

All my oem stuff is still doing very well at 112k and 9 years. Only thing Iíve really replaced is brake pads.

Anything else you have replaced in that timeframe?
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Old 06-24-2021, 07:53 PM   #31744
jbooerns14
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I've only owned it a couple years and only have had to replace a brake caliper due to a stuck piston last fall. Probably from not driving it very much last year. New seats would be great mine are held together by tie wire, those hooks in the back keep breaking.
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Old 06-24-2021, 10:48 PM   #31745
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbooerns14 View Post
I've only owned it a couple years and only have had to replace a brake caliper due to a stuck piston last fall. Probably from not driving it very much last year. New seats would be great mine are held together by tie wire, those hooks in the back keep breaking.

I started bending my own out of 1/8Ē steel rod. Not too bad of a job and now they donít break.

I swapped the upper grommets from the tsb years ago from my old seats to my new seats and made new hooks! Should be good to go!
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Old 06-24-2021, 10:56 PM   #31746
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Good to see them at high mileage!

All my oem stuff is still doing very well at 112k and 9 years. Only thing Iíve really replaced is brake pads.

Anything else you have replaced in that timeframe?


Engine(original started drinking oil severely at 140k)
Clutch (brz)
Flywheel (lightweight 2015+ wrx)
All group N mounts
3 fuel filters
Driveshaft
Rebuilt front calipers ( pistons)
All new OEM suspension
4 oem wheel bearings
Rebuilt front lower control arms
Windshield x 3
Headlight housings( hit pheasant, replaced both with OEM)
Clutch start safety switch
Swaybar endlinks and bushings(broke a front one, replaced all 4)
Both front O2 sensors


Thatís about it

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-28-2021 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 06-26-2021, 09:20 PM   #31747
IHaveAHorse
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Does anyone know how much an AC compressor replacement or an AC compressor *clutch* replacement would cost on the 2012-16s?

I'm getting buzzing at low RPM on mine that seems to either be drowned out or go away above like 2500-3000RPM when the compressor is on. Researching the issue it seems to either be the clutch or the compressor itself is dying. I'm hoping it's just the clutch because the air is still as cool as ever.

Alternatively, anyone know how much the compressor clutch parts cost and if it's something doable at home without any special tools (I know the compressor requires all the refrigerant handling equipment for example)?
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Old 06-27-2021, 05:22 AM   #31748
flyboy1100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
Does anyone know how much an AC compressor replacement or an AC compressor *clutch* replacement would cost on the 2012-16s?

I'm getting buzzing at low RPM on mine that seems to either be drowned out or go away above like 2500-3000RPM when the compressor is on. Researching the issue it seems to either be the clutch or the compressor itself is dying. I'm hoping it's just the clutch because the air is still as cool as ever.

Alternatively, anyone know how much the compressor clutch parts cost and if it's something doable at home without any special tools (I know the compressor requires all the refrigerant handling equipment for example)?

There are a few really good videos on YouTube on how to adjust the Subaru clutch with basic tools.
I actually need to check mine.

Subaru compressors are really expensive, thankfully i have a 25k mile one sitting on the shelf from my engine swap just in case i ever need it
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Old 06-27-2021, 01:15 PM   #31749
IHaveAHorse
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Found a couple videos showing how to adjust the compressor clutch and it looks pretty easy and fairly quick, I'll try that and hope it fixes it, I really don't want to have to pay to replace the compressor without a steady income and dwindling savings right now. We'll see, I'll update once I get it done.
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Old 06-27-2021, 02:52 PM   #31750
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Unfortunately didn't work. What's weird is I can hear clicking when I spin the clutch while it's not engaged, and I think that's what's causing buzzing when it's being turned by the engine? So in theory I don't see how it can be the compressor since the clutch isn't engaged and isn't coupled to the compressor. I don't know. I might just see how long I can get by with it doing this, I really don't want to have to spend several hundred dollars on a compressor replacement right now, and like I said the AC is still working, it's just the sound for now.
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