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Old 01-05-2014, 02:23 PM   #26
SpongeBobSquarePants
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
The only thing that worries me about the dccd pro fpc is the 16.5 A rating. The aeromotive pump draws almost 17-18 A at 80 psi. I'm running 50 psi base + 30 psi boost. I guess I could lower base back down to 43 psi to lower current draw.
well with that much boost id worry too. shoot them an email ([email protected]) when i spoke to them they said something like they would be able to customize one to your application.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:44 PM   #27
bebesito21
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^when i spoke to the people at dccd they said that 16.5 A is a continuous rating. It could see flashes of much higher amperage as long as it comes back down.

so i guess it depends on how long you stay in boost and how much boost you end up running
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebesito21 View Post
^when i spoke to the people at dccd they said that 16.5 A is a continuous rating. It could see flashes of much higher amperage as long as it comes back down.

so i guess it depends on how long you stay in boost and how much boost you end up running
They told me the same thing.However 10 seconds at full boost hardly qualifies as a spike
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:26 PM   #29
rocketperson7
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(I have designed some high current dc motor controllers that I've used in robotics)


continuous current rating is ASSUMING you can keep it in an acceptable temperature range, time to start designing a heat sink and blower setup...

Also, once you throw PWM into the equation, yes you can run higher peak current, but keep in mind switching losses also contribute to heat

this is why controllers are designed, and not just wiring one FET to a pump

good luck
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:25 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketperson7 View Post
this is why controllers are designed, and not just wiring one FET to a pump
Yes controllers are designed and sold, and usually the majority of that design is just the front end...turning an analog voltage into PWM, turning a pot position into PWM, etc. Once you have a PWM (like we already have in this case), the power side of the controller very often is just a FET (or multiple in parallel) wired to the pump.

Not exactly the most scientific research, but as a matter of reference just do a quick Google image search for "pwm motor driver" and look at the output stage of just about any of them.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:27 PM   #31
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Don't have anything useful in regards to the wiring and control question, but I too am wondering why you want to use an electric jet pump.

Are you are hitting a limitation with the stock return line venturi jet pump? Are you trying to bypass this to return directly to the oem plastic sump housing? Or do you have some other motive for what you are trying to do? I'm very interested in why you want to do this.

I've got a walbro 400 crammed into my oem sump housing and its all plumbed like stock currently. I'm using the FuelPro controller, wired into the OEM FPC harness but grounded directly do the chassis. I tried using the OEM ground but the FuelPro did not like this and they advised using a chassis ground which made it behave perfectly. I'm not having issues with overrunning even the stock FPR and I'm not dropping fuel pressure even up to 26 psi. I'm at about 84% IDC on 1400 cc injectors. Stock rails, lines & fpr.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:48 PM   #32
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I am curious would a different Jet pump help?
http://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-jet-pum...preza-gdb.html
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycraigsti View Post
I am curious would a different Jet pump help?
http://www.rhdjapan.com/sard-jet-pum...preza-gdb.html
I was going to see what the OP had to say and then I was going to point out this upgraded jet pump as well. I don't think I'm overrunning mine though even with a walbro 400 in there. I'm curious what the OP is trying to do. I can't find a build thread for his car.
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:06 PM   #34
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The PWM is actually on the common wire from the stock fuel pump control module. Plenty of LGT guys including me have hard wired a stock location fuel pump. I have a dedicated 10 AWG wire going from the battery to a relay, then to the pump. The relay stays constantly latched closed using the reference voltage from the ECU.

DW sells a decent relay kit ready to go, which is what I bought. I then had to add some wiring and do the solder work with heat shrink. What you end up with is speed control of the pump using the factory controllers but you have the higher current capacity and virtually no voltage drop. The one foot length of smaller wire to the pump directly can handle up to 20A and not drop much voltage at all.
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Th3Franz View Post
The PWM is actually on the common wire from the stock fuel pump control module. Plenty of LGT guys including me have hard wired a stock location fuel pump. I have a dedicated 10 AWG wire going from the battery to a relay, then to the pump. The relay stays constantly latched closed using the reference voltage from the ECU.

DW sells a decent relay kit ready to go, which is what I bought. I then had to add some wiring and do the solder work with heat shrink. What you end up with is speed control of the pump using the factory controllers but you have the higher current capacity and virtually no voltage drop. The one foot length of smaller wire to the pump directly can handle up to 20A and not drop much voltage at all.
That helps reduce the voltage drop, but it doesn't help with frying the FPC from the added current draw.
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
Don't have anything useful in regards to the wiring and control question, but I too am wondering why you want to use an electric jet pump.

Are you are hitting a limitation with the stock return line venturi jet pump? Are you trying to bypass this to return directly to the oem plastic sump housing? Or do you have some other motive for what you are trying to do? I'm very interested in why you want to do this.

I've got a walbro 400 crammed into my oem sump housing and its all plumbed like stock currently. I'm using the FuelPro controller, wired into the OEM FPC harness but grounded directly do the chassis. I tried using the OEM ground but the FuelPro did not like this and they advised using a chassis ground which made it behave perfectly. I'm not having issues with overrunning even the stock FPR and I'm not dropping fuel pressure even up to 26 psi. I'm at about 84% IDC on 1400 cc injectors. Stock rails, lines & fpr.
What I was trying to do is eliminate the possibility of fuel starvation under wot. So force feeding fuel into the OEM bucket sump. I think what I may do is write the second pump with a Hobbs switch so it only comes on during high boost.
I am aware of the sard jet pump but being that I already own a dw65 why not use it? I don't have a build thread so here is a quick rundown.
2011 STI element tuning pro comp long block, stock location gtx35r, amr inlet, hyrda standalone, ID1300 injectors. Every killer b part aeromotive340 fuel pump and rails
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:16 PM   #37
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we have been using igbt's (another type of transistor) for years in pwm VSD's for ac motors most of them make it 10 years or more no problem with carrier frequency of 2.2-3.0khz thats alot of switching.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:35 PM   #38
DCCDPro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
They told me the same thing.However 10 seconds at full boost hardly qualifies as a spike
Hi guys,

Just wanted to let you all know that we have made improvements to our product and
17-18 Amps @ 13.5 volts is easily accommodated well over time periods you have mentioned above. Yes, as you have mentioned, heat transfer is one of the aspects and we have made improvement on that front too.

Kind regards,
-Jeff
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:15 AM   #39
SpongeBobSquarePants
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Thanks for the update. I'll be using your fpc
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:19 AM   #40
WRXt4cy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCCDPro View Post
Hi guys,

Just wanted to let you all know that we have made improvements to our product and
17-18 Amps @ 13.5 volts is easily accommodated well over time periods you have mentioned above. Yes, as you have mentioned, heat transfer is one of the aspects and we have made improvement on that front too.

Kind regards,
-Jeff
Can I trade in my old unit for a new one?

I keep melting the lids with my walbro 400.
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:17 PM   #41
Mattkguns
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Default Not to Necro, but...

Did anybody end up trying anything with an ssr or a few?
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Old 08-12-2018, 12:05 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattkguns View Post
Did anybody end up trying anything with an ssr or a few?
Just ordered a MOSFET output 60A DC SSR. I see members on the Link ECU forum that have used them successfully. Gonna give it a try myself. Got a quality SSR and heat sink for about $100. For the lowest voltage drop/internal resistance, use a MOSFET output SSR. Cheaper ones can have more than a 2V voltage drop. MOSFET is usually less than .4V.
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