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Old 05-16-2018, 05:42 PM   #30626
flyboy1100
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Looks like full engine and accessories....not bad for about 645 or whatever it was after tax.....

Doesn't fit in hatch though, need my truck
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:14 PM   #30627
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Nice. You might want to bring an old tire to set it down on.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:06 PM   #30628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Nice. You might want to bring an old tire to set it down on.


They have it strapped to a 2' x 3 or 4' pallet

Will fit nice in my 8' bed, lol
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:10 PM   #30629
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My engine is really starting to sound funny......cant even describe it, air pumping sound with a wobba wobba wobba sound occasionally
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Old 05-18-2018, 12:31 PM   #30630
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:40 PM   #30631
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I've heard these cars have some issues with the oil level sensor.

Anyone replace theirs and what symptoms did they have as well as price? I looked and couldn't find it cheaper than 75.

Mine went on for a few seconds earlier when I have full oil just want to know what to watch out for.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:41 PM   #30632
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Lesson learned on used wiper arms, while the spring tension is much stronger, the splines are off just enough that the blade doesn't land on the heater and either ends up really short at an angle at the top or goes off drivers side.

Adding new wiper arm to my engine parts order...
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Old 05-24-2018, 03:41 PM   #30633
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Anyone else experience this,

Filled up oil to half way between pegs about 3k miles ago. Checked oil level Saturday was halfway between pegs still.

Drove about 250 miles and my low oil level came on. Checked and nothing on the dipstick at all. No obvios oil leaks and can't see anything dripping(although it's hard to see much without the splash guards removed.)

It seems like my car does this the past 30k miles. Is fine for 3k and doesn't seem to lose any then loses a ton all at once just after 3k miles.

Which totally doesn't make sense.

Or is it possible that the lower on the dipstick it reads the less oil volume loss it takes to go alll the way down? Like the oil pan gets narrower down towards the bottom of the stick?
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Old 05-24-2018, 05:49 PM   #30634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
I'll have to check the pressure again with my manifold kit. Driving on the highway is pretty annoying with the AC on, I can feel it cycling on and off probably every 3-4 seconds. This was on 2, recirc and AC on.

It's possible that it's overfilled, but I checked a couple months ago and it seemed to be within the ranges:



I tweaked my fill today, brought my level up to 3.1 bar(0.31mpa). Now after 6 years its not cycling on the interstate and at 93F it's outputting 50F, so 40f differential with max fan and recirc on. fan 3 recirc im seeing 44f!!!! I don't think it has ever worked this well

I take back my previous statement, and yoi should check/tweak your pressure/Fill

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-24-2018 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:28 PM   #30635
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The cycling stopped because the boiling point of R134a at 3BAR is 40F, where ice doesn't form. You'll probably find that it will cycle once again at night.

https://www.advantageengineering.com...tageFYI289.pdf

You have to be careful with overcharging. Liquid refrigerant reaching the compressor is very bad news.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:36 PM   #30636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
The cycling stopped because the boiling point of R134a at 3BAR is 40F, where ice doesn't form. You'll probably find that it will cycle once again at night.

https://www.advantageengineering.com...tageFYI289.pdf

You have to be careful with overcharging. Liquid refrigerant reaching the compressor is very bad news.


That makes sense, im not overcharged however because the range at this temp is 2.2-3.5 bar, so about 60% or just over the middle. Can't phrase that better

3.1 bar was the max i saw with 250psi high side. Once the 2nd fan kicked in it dropped to 2.7 bar and about 200psi. Wasn't looking at bar numbers on high side

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-24-2018 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:03 PM   #30637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Anyone else experience this,



Filled up oil to half way between pegs about 3k miles ago. Checked oil level Saturday was halfway between pegs still.



Drove about 250 miles and my low oil level came on. Checked and nothing on the dipstick at all. No obvios oil leaks and can't see anything dripping(although it's hard to see much without the splash guards removed.)



It seems like my car does this the past 30k miles. Is fine for 3k and doesn't seem to lose any then loses a ton all at once just after 3k miles.



Which totally doesn't make sense.



Or is it possible that the lower on the dipstick it reads the less oil volume loss it takes to go alll the way down? Like the oil pan gets narrower down towards the bottom of the stick?


Front or back side was in the middle? Back side reads lower and is the correct side to use. Low oil light is all over the place, this engine comes on at .75 low
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:16 AM   #30638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
Anyone else experience this,

Filled up oil to half way between pegs about 3k miles ago. Checked oil level Saturday was halfway between pegs still.

Drove about 250 miles and my low oil level came on. Checked and nothing on the dipstick at all. No obvios oil leaks and can't see anything dripping(although it's hard to see much without the splash guards removed.)

It seems like my car does this the past 30k miles. Is fine for 3k and doesn't seem to lose any then loses a ton all at once just after 3k miles.

Which totally doesn't make sense.

Or is it possible that the lower on the dipstick it reads the less oil volume loss it takes to go alll the way down? Like the oil pan gets narrower down towards the bottom of the stick?

Iíve had that happen a few times, once right after an oil change. The first time I chalked it up to maybe my fumoto not being fully closed ( only explanation I could come up with but I wasnít sold on that ). Then it happened a few times after. It just dumps a mystery 1/2-1 quart somewhere. Iím at 220k miles now and experiencing similar issues as flyboy, come 2-3k miles oil light comes on regardless of oil type or driving style. Iíve recently done a couple of engine flushes with motor medic and a couple of early oil changes. Im doing 5k oil changes now to play it safe and using Walmart synth to cut consumption cost. Iíve always kept a minimum of a quart of oil in my car which I recommend everyone do. I also recommend checking oil level as often as you reasonably can on a cold engine and on the back side of the dipstick as was stated earlier. Itís an inconvienent, but good habit. With all considered above I wonít repair the engine, Iíll just ride it till it dies and hope someone figures out the fb25 swap for this car before it does.

Last edited by SubaruLee; 05-25-2018 at 12:32 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:27 AM   #30639
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Fb25 swap...

Fb25, ecm, bcm, dash harness, engine harness, ignition, keys

Way too much work
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:40 AM   #30640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
I tweaked my fill today, brought my level up to 3.1 bar(0.31mpa). Now after 6 years its not cycling on the interstate and at 93F it's outputting 50F, so 40f differential with max fan and recirc on. fan 3 recirc im seeing 44f!!!! I don't think it has ever worked this well

I take back my previous statement, and yoi should check/tweak your pressure/Fill
Do you have the harbor freight AC Manifold gauge? The issue I had was trying to convert from PSI (harbor freight) to MPa and get an accurate measurement. Is either the high pressure or low pressure better to use to compare to the service manual graph? Or both? I plan on checking tomorrow as its going to be almost 90 here.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:18 AM   #30641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
Do you have the harbor freight AC Manifold gauge? The issue I had was trying to convert from PSI (harbor freight) to MPa and get an accurate measurement. Is either the high pressure or low pressure better to use to compare to the service manual graph? Or both? I plan on checking tomorrow as its going to be almost 90 here.
i have a Mountain brand one. it looks like this but i don't remember the specific model number, i don't have any of the issues the reviewers do https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-MTN8...mountain+r134a

it has Bar/PSI. bar to mPa is just move the decimal 1 place, ie .22mPa = 2.2 bar so that was easier to use.

you should use both, but i mostly use the low side. the high side is good for general health of the system and or condenser blockages. mine is still w/in spec, but on the high side of the limits. after 6 years i could probably benefit from washing my condenser out and I plan to when i pull the radiator for my engine swap. when both fans kicked in my high pressure dropped about 50psi so with better airflow it is fine. at least this is my understanding of it.

https://www.sanden.com/objects/SANDE...OSIS_CHART.pdf

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-25-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:20 AM   #30642
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whoops
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:54 AM   #30643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
i have a Mountain brand one. it looks like this but i don't remember the specific model number, i don't have any of the issues the reviewers do https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-MTN8...mountain+r134a

it has Bar/PSI. bar to mPa is just move the decimal 1 place, ie .22mPa = 2.2 bar so that was easier to use.

you should use both, but i mostly use the low side. the high side is good for general health of the system and or condenser blockages. mine is still w/in spec, but on the high side of the limits. after 6 years i could probably benefit from washing my condenser out and I plan to when i pull the radiator for my engine swap. when both fans kicked in my high pressure dropped about 50psi so with better airflow it is fine. at least this is my understanding of it.

https://www.sanden.com/objects/SANDE...OSIS_CHART.pdf
Thanks, created a Notes document with the converted values for about what the high temp should be tomorrow. Google calculator FTW!
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:59 AM   #30644
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What do you mean by front/back?

I think what happened was the temps finally got hot this week (70-80) and as the oil level gets lower it runs hotter with a lower total volume so consumption increased.

My plan is to switch to 0w40 and make sure it is always up at the top dot on the stock and fill it up when it gets to the middle.

Haven't burned more than a quart in 3k so not really anything to worry about.
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Old 05-25-2018, 02:32 PM   #30645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
What do you mean by front/back?



I think what happened was the temps finally got hot this week (70-80) and as the oil level gets lower it runs hotter with a lower total volume so consumption increased.



My plan is to switch to 0w40 and make sure it is always up at the top dot on the stock and fill it up when it gets to the middle.



Haven't burned more than a quart in 3k so not really anything to worry about.


The back side of the dipstick always reads lower
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:34 PM   #30646
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Now i get a marble type sound from the front when hitting the brakes. Kinda regret buying a newer engine and not just selling the car

Going to go experiment with slow turning etc to see if i can figure it our. Argh

Edit: Now it won't do it of course. Increasingly smaller diameter circles L & R yielded zero noise and my lugs are tight.

I really think it is something with the brakes, specifically rotors, or maybe struts and/or top plates

Edit2: something with applying brakes and then releasing, makes me really question the brakes and or maybe swaybar endlinks

Last edited by flyboy1100; 05-29-2018 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:03 PM   #30647
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Like a marble rolling type of sound? No distinguishing marks on the rotors?
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:32 PM   #30648
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Quote:
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Like a marble rolling type of sound? No distinguishing marks on the rotors?


The more i test this marble was wrong description. It is the same sound the brakes make when they break loose from sitting for an extended time, only it happens a few times. More prevalent when lightly braking at slow <10mph speeds and brakes are warmed up, wont do it at all when they are cool or even after extended highway driving.

So pretty sure it is my rotors which honestly weren't in fantastic shape a few months back when I did pads. They aren't warped, ie you can't feel the pulsing, but you can hear the pads grip and release the rotors.

So add those to my ever growing shopping list :/
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:47 PM   #30649
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I only have about a month on my Centric GCX rotors, but they've been really good thus far. I'm a total noob but didn't have any issues with bedding in or the rotors warping (knock on wood).

Really interested to see how they hold up to the salty winters here in New England. It's pretty much a given they'll be better than the stock Subaru ones, though
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Old 05-29-2018, 03:39 PM   #30650
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Quote:
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I only have about a month on my Centric GCX rotors, but they've been really good thus far. I'm a total noob but didn't have any issues with bedding in or the rotors warping (knock on wood).

Really interested to see how they hold up to the salty winters here in New England. It's pretty much a given they'll be better than the stock Subaru ones, though


Mine had held up fantastic until last 2 winters when they started to brine roads non stop snd this winter started using straight salt used to hardly ever use anything so vehicles would generally stay pretty nice

Will look those up, centric is usually decent
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