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Old 07-18-2017, 11:22 PM   #1
cmartin72
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Default Motor Build Plan

IAG Stage 2 Short Block $3,000.00*https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1200.htm
Turbo - 1,400.00 http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legac...er-_p_114.html
Top Mount Intercooler -$982.14 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Proce.../pwtmic13b.htm
Clutch and Flywheel - $781.56 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Compe...15026-2100.htm
Water Meth Kit - $655.00 *http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-0...ing-pwm-valve/
Fuel Injectors - $520.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...50.48.11.WRX.4
TGV Deletes - $320.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-B...afd-3001bk.htm
Engine Rebuild Gaskets - $285.43 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...t-and-seal-kit
Radiator - $285.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Mishi...rad-sti-08.htm
Head Studs - $205.38 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-stud-kit-11mm
Oil Pickup - $176.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Kille...-p/070-110.htm
Blow Off Valve - $166.04 *https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...umb-back-black
IAG 38mm EWG KIT

Car is a 2009 Subaru wrx. What kind of numbers should I expect? What am I missing that I should think about. Car is full bolt on now with an ewg but I want more! And want it to be pretty reliable. Possible six speed sway in the future so I'm not worried about the transmission. No E85, terrible availability where I live. 93 Octane + meth is the plan.
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:30 PM   #2
user1029
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440hp
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:36 PM   #3
cmartin72
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I was told by my tuner he was very positive I'd be in the 400 range plus or minus some
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:19 AM   #4
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I would look at many other build costs on the forums. Although those prices look standard, you should be aware of all the hidden costs as well as any labor you cannot do on your own. I think you are missing things. My build was a lot more than what you are looking for, but it has a pretty good list of all the things you might see. Also piping can really get you if you can't weld aluminium.

Head work would really open the car up but again you are adding a lot of cost to the build.

Also note that most turbo hp ratings are a BS number. They use calculations and assume things that just aren't feasible. It's the same when car manufactures calculate 1/4 mile times and assume a perfect world with perfect traction.

For me, the turbo looks small. That 440bhp it claims might be in the ball park of 300whp. Personally, the rest of the build support way more. I would be looking at that new FP Blue or the Doms and others like that (and a lot cheaper too).
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:25 PM   #5
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stags4 View Post
I would look at many other build costs on the forums. Although those prices look standard, you should be aware of all the hidden costs as well as any labor you cannot do on your own. I think you are missing things. My build was a lot more than what you are looking for, but it has a pretty good list of all the things you might see. Also piping can really get you if you can't weld aluminium.

Head work would really open the car up but again you are adding a lot of cost to the build.

Also note that most turbo hp ratings are a BS number. They use calculations and assume things that just aren't feasible. It's the same when car manufactures calculate 1/4 mile times and assume a perfect world with perfect traction.

For me, the turbo looks small. That 440bhp it claims might be in the ball park of 300whp. Personally, the rest of the build support way more. I would be looking at that new FP Blue or the Doms and others like that (and a lot cheaper too).

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2338819
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:27 PM   #7
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:30 PM   #8
cmartin72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stags4 View Post
I would look at many other build costs on the forums. Although those prices look standard, you should be aware of all the hidden costs as well as any labor you cannot do on your own. I think you are missing things. My build was a lot more than what you are looking for, but it has a pretty good list of all the things you might see. Also piping can really get you if you can't weld aluminium.

Head work would really open the car up but again you are adding a lot of cost to the build.

Also note that most turbo hp ratings are a BS number. They use calculations and assume things that just aren't feasible. It's the same when car manufactures calculate 1/4 mile times and assume a perfect world with perfect traction.

For me, the turbo looks small. That 440bhp it claims might be in the ball park of 300whp. Personally, the rest of the build support way more. I would be looking at that new FP Blue or the Doms and others like that (and a lot cheaper too).


I dyno'd at 300whp on my vf52... on 93... people one e85 on a vf52 have dyno'd at 340. 20g's are very underrated.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin72 View Post
I dyno'd at 300whp on my vf52... on 93... people one e85 on a vf52 have dyno'd at 340. 20g's are very underrated.
lol post enough replies?

I don't think 20g's are underrated, I just think you are going to run into a lot of hidden things and would be surprised to get 450whp on a dyno that doesn't have fluff in it. Just be careful with dyno numbers as shops can make it anything they want. I would like to see without change, what a stock wrx and STI runs on the dyno. That usually helps give you the fluff number.

But if a number is all you are after then just add more boost and fuel.
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Old 07-20-2017, 09:37 AM   #10
cmartin72
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Originally Posted by Stags4 View Post
lol post enough replies?

I don't think 20g's are underrated, I just think you are going to run into a lot of hidden things and would be surprised to get 450whp on a dyno that doesn't have fluff in it. Just be careful with dyno numbers as shops can make it anything they want. I would like to see without change, what a stock wrx and STI runs on the dyno. That usually helps give you the fluff number.

But if a number is all you are after then just add more boost and fuel.


Sorry I couldn't get it all in one post haha, had delayed thoughts. I'm not even after 450 whp! I'm after more top end really, and that's it. Car is fun as it is now, but I'd enjoy being able to hold 24 psi to redline! I auto cross so I want to keep the quick spool, hits why I'm staying smaller turbo, but also do some half mile events, and some street pulls, so I wouldn't mine a little more go in 3rd-5th with a complete rebuilt car! Numbers are just something to brag over, but the local reputable shop, and a guy I know, sounds very confident if 400 is my goal. I dyno'd stock at 235 and 304 with my bolt ons and fuel upgrade. I want a longer power curve that stays above 350 the entire curve
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:29 AM   #11
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wait, your first post you said no e85, its unavailable your going meth, then you add the flexfuel kit and say you are running e85? did you move?

anyways, You'll need new ptfe lines for those rails, FPR, fittings, etc. That pump wont last on e85, you'll need a e85 designated one.


sigh I hate these threads
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:50 PM   #12
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Yes I will be moving, this is just a future plan for within the next year. I'm posting on here because I hate to continuously bother my tuner through email until I come up with a more complete list. These threads are for help and input, not to be a prick!
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:19 PM   #13
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Why even spend the money if you'll be making AT THE MOST 400whp? Do you need a motor currently? The stock motor will be able to handle that as long as you get a quality tune. How many miles does it have? If you pull the motor for a short block, it would be dumb to NOT get the heads refreshed at the least. There are a LOT of hidden costs you will run into. I would skip the motor, and get everything else. Use the money you save from the motor for a 6 speed swap, your stock 5 speed would go before your stock engine anyways.
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:28 PM   #14
cmartin72
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I doubt very seriously my stock 5 speed will go before my motor... did you not scroll up and see the link I posted of the guy with this same build haha. You guys enjoy negativity! MOTOR has 89 thousand miles, I will get my heads milled and refreshed, I realize there are more things involved... you're just assuming things that you don't know.
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:32 PM   #15
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And yes I do plan on swapping in a six speed. Eventually! That's not part of this thread because o already have a possible donor car
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:18 PM   #16
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I'd say save some pennies and skip fuel rails if you're only running a 20g on e85.

If it was like a 3076 on e85 then yes rails would be worth while. You would get better gains from a fuel pump rewire kit.

Here is my 2 cents on your list. It will save you money.

IAG Stage 2 Short Block $3,000.00*https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1200.htm
Turbo - 1,400.00 http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legac...er-_p_114.html
Top Mount Intercooler -$982.14 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Proce.../pwtmic13b.htm - Grimmspeed or go FMIC
Clutch and Flywheel - $781.56 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Compe...15026-2100.htm
Flex Fuel kit - $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...uctCode=315F03
Fuel Injectors - $900.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...00.48.11.WRX.4
Fuel Rail kit - $180.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...IAG-AFD-2101GD - Not needed for 20g sized turbo
Fuel Pump - $184.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...ductCode=11165
TGV Deletes - $320.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-B...afd-3001bk.htm - Are you handy? Delete them yourself
Engine Rebuild Gaskets - $285.43 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...t-and-seal-kit
Radiator - $285.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Mishi...rad-sti-08.htm - Run a stocker at this power level, especially for a DD.
Head Studs - $205.38 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-stud-kit-11mm
Oil Pickup - $176.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Kille...-p/070-110.htm
Blow off valve - $282.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...blow-off-valve - Save your money get the recirculating one you will still hear it trust me. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...diverter-valve
IAG EWG KIT- $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...e=IAG-PER-1013 - Get ELH trust me. Makes power easier and make it sound like a race car at full song.
Gauge kit(AFR &BOOST) - $480.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-08-14-wrx-sti - Swap boost for oil pressure, protect your investment on your motor. Your Accessport will tell you boost.

If you don't have one, get the IAG AOS.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:25 PM   #17
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Delphi makes a good point on the radiator. Most aftermarket radiators dont work well for low speed dd duty. Theyll cool like crap in summer heat stop and go traffic.

Since this is your daily id sell the 09, take the money I was going to spend on aftermarket crap and buy a new one.

You dont sound like someone whos going to do their own work so youre lookin at at least $10k

Last edited by ALOKIN; 07-20-2017 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:43 PM   #18
cmartin72
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Originally Posted by ALOKIN View Post
Delphi makes a good point on the radiator. Most aftermarket radiators dont work well for low speed dd duty. Theyll cool like crap in summer heat stop and go traffic.

Since this is your daily id sell the 09, take the money I was going to spend on aftermarket crap and buy a new one.

You dont sound like someone whos going to do their own work so youre lookin at at least $10k


Not at all, I've done every bolt on, on my car! Why would I buy a new one that has a stock block, haha this is my problem with nasioc, I bunch of key board warriors. I've installed my own fuel pump, clutch, external wastegate, plugs, downpipe etc.... i have a mechanic that does work for me for cheap. I got the car for a steal... (13 grand) not much into it. This is for the future, and something I enjoy and put time into and effort. Something I'm actually passionate about. I'm not coming on a forum for someone to recommend me to sell my car when it's been very well taken care of. I came here for input and I appreciate your input, I will go the grimmspeed instead of pw, I meant to update that on my last list.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:44 PM   #19
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I'm overbuilding it in case I ever want a larger turbo.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:58 PM   #20
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I think this is getting more south than it's needed. Please understand the negativity is not negativity, it's constructive criticism from people who have already done what you have done (some many times over) and have many many more years experience.

For what you want (fast spool, under 24 psi, 93 and e85, road toy) I think you should just consider a slightly larger turbo and some fuel upgrades and the small extras to get you there. That's about it. I once you invest in the shortblock tear down, you should invest in the head work and machinng stuff too unless you REALLY plan on never touching the longblock again. So again, please look into the things we talk about...

"I doubt very seriously my stock 5 speed will go before my motor..." That's all in the tune and build. If someone says that statement, then they don't understand and/or can't tune a Subaru. That 5 speed is/should be the weakest link. EJ's are pretty good when built and tuned correctly (even stock ones). EJ's are very underrated. (Now where have I heard a statement like that before )

"a bunch of key board warriors" You are barking up the wrong tree with the people here... check out all of our builds before you make false claims... this isn't the Mustang forums. You will get now where here if that keeps up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALOKIN View Post
sigh I hate these threads

Last edited by Stags4; 07-20-2017 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:59 PM   #21
cmartin72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
I'd say save some pennies and skip fuel rails if you're only running a 20g on e85.



If it was like a 3076 on e85 then yes rails would be worth while. You would get better gains from a fuel pump rewire kit.



Here is my 2 cents on your list. It will save you money.



IAG Stage 2 Short Block $3,000.00*https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1200.htm

Turbo - 1,400.00 http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legac...er-_p_114.html

Top Mount Intercooler -$982.14 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Proce.../pwtmic13b.htm - Grimmspeed or go FMIC

Clutch and Flywheel - $781.56 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Compe...15026-2100.htm

Flex Fuel kit - $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...uctCode=315F03

Fuel Injectors - $900.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...00.48.11.WRX.4

Fuel Rail kit - $180.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...IAG-AFD-2101GD - Not needed for 20g sized turbo

Fuel Pump - $184.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...ductCode=11165

TGV Deletes - $320.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-B...afd-3001bk.htm - Are you handy? Delete them yourself

Engine Rebuild Gaskets - $285.43 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...t-and-seal-kit

Radiator - $285.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Mishi...rad-sti-08.htm - Run a stocker at this power level, especially for a DD.

Head Studs - $205.38 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-stud-kit-11mm

Oil Pickup - $176.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Kille...-p/070-110.htm

Blow off valve - $282.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...blow-off-valve - Save your money get the recirculating one you will still hear it trust me. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...diverter-valve

IAG EWG KIT- $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...e=IAG-PER-1013 - Get ELH trust me. Makes power easier and make it sound like a race car at full song.

Gauge kit(AFR &BOOST) - $480.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-08-14-wrx-sti - Swap boost for oil pressure, protect your investment on your motor. Your Accessport will tell you boost.



If you don't have one, get the IAG AOS.


Thanks for your input, are you sure that I won't need rails and lines ? Other people have said different. I planned on going with the grimspeed anyways I just didn't update and thanks about the radiator too
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:14 PM   #22
cmartin72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
I'd say save some pennies and skip fuel rails if you're only running a 20g on e85.



If it was like a 3076 on e85 then yes rails would be worth while. You would get better gains from a fuel pump rewire kit.



Here is my 2 cents on your list. It will save you money.



IAG Stage 2 Short Block $3,000.00*https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1200.htm

Turbo - 1,400.00 http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legac...er-_p_114.html

Top Mount Intercooler -$982.14 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Proce.../pwtmic13b.htm - Grimmspeed or go FMIC

Clutch and Flywheel - $781.56 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Compe...15026-2100.htm

Flex Fuel kit - $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...uctCode=315F03

Fuel Injectors - $900.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...00.48.11.WRX.4

Fuel Rail kit - $180.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...IAG-AFD-2101GD - Not needed for 20g sized turbo

Fuel Pump - $184.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...ductCode=11165

TGV Deletes - $320.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-B...afd-3001bk.htm - Are you handy? Delete them yourself

Engine Rebuild Gaskets - $285.43 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...t-and-seal-kit

Radiator - $285.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Mishi...rad-sti-08.htm - Run a stocker at this power level, especially for a DD.

Head Studs - $205.38 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-stud-kit-11mm

Oil Pickup - $176.00 *https://www.iagperformance.com/Kille...-p/070-110.htm

Blow off valve - $282.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...blow-off-valve - Save your money get the recirculating one you will still hear it trust me. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...diverter-valve

IAG EWG KIT- $800.00 http://www.iagperformance.com/mobile...e=IAG-PER-1013 - Get ELH trust me. Makes power easier and make it sound like a race car at full song.

Gauge kit(AFR &BOOST) - $480.00 https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fit...-08-14-wrx-sti - Swap boost for oil pressure, protect your investment on your motor. Your Accessport will tell you boost.



If you don't have one, get the IAG AOS.


Thanks for your input, are you sure that I won't need rails and lines ? Other people have said different. I planned on going with the grimspeed anyways I just didn't update and thanks about the radiator too
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:16 PM   #23
Dave D.
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Dom 1.5.

Skip the meth; why spend all that money when one small short in the system could ruin a rod bearing?
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Old 07-20-2017, 05:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartin72 View Post
Thanks for your input, are you sure that I won't need rails and lines ? Other people have said different. I planned on going with the grimspeed anyways I just didn't update and thanks about the radiator too
Upgrade them when/if you want more power over this turbo. I guarantee you're going to crap yourself with this turbo on e85 with a good tuner. Add a good fuel pressure regulator (Radium) instead and upgrade the fuel pumps wiring. Xluben's 2011 wrx build you linked didn't upgrade the rails on his 20g...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
Dom 1.5.

Skip the meth; why spend all that money when one small short in the system could ruin a rod bearing?
With a v3 AP you can set it up that meth armed is like having 100% Ethanol on the flex fuel table. If it shorts or dies it will map switch to pump gas map. not to mention most meth systems come with a couple failsafes.

Anyways OP is going on E85 now.
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
Upgrade them when/if you want more power over this turbo. I guarantee you're going to crap yourself with this turbo on e85 with a good tuner. Add a good fuel pressure regulator (Radium) instead and upgrade the fuel pumps wiring. Xluben's 2011 wrx build you linked didn't upgrade the rails on his 20g...



With a v3 AP you can set it up that meth armed is like having 100% Ethanol on the flex fuel table. If it shorts or dies it will map switch to pump gas map. not to mention most meth systems come with a couple failsafes.

Anyways OP is going on E85 now.


Exactly! What's the best drop in fuel pump I can get? And what fuel regulator would your recommend?
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