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Old 02-03-2018, 10:15 AM   #1
milab21
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Default Help with Camber Plate Install on AST shock

Hey everyone, I need some input on installing a set of AST camber plates onto my 5100's. They have been frustrating since I'm new to assembling a coilover. Taking off the oem top hats that came with the 5100's were a pain itself. I used a pass-thru socket with allen key to keep the shaft from spinning but it was impossible. I ended up having to hit it with an impact gun little at a time and it took forever, whoever installed them put them on very tight. I also used a small rubber strap to hold the shaft that worked well to keep it from spinning and also not damage the shaft.

Now my question is does anyone have an idea on how these AST plates go onto the coilover? I emailed AST and never heard back from them. I do have a diagram but it does not make sense to me. It shows a black tapered spacer going onto the shaft before the perch, but the perch does not sit right with the tapered spacer on. I believe it doesn't get used but can not get an answer, and I'm not one to be a pain calling someone 10 times a day so I figured I'd post up here in hopes of someone being able to help until I find out an answer from AST. Here is some pictures and stuff that I have questions about.

This is the black tapered spacer thingy all the way to the right in this picture. I also have them in order of how I think they go on but not including that tapered spacer.


How I placed them on the strut before the camber plate and top nut


How the spring perch sits on that tapered spacer, its like wobbly, doesn't seem right


Without the tapered spacer, plenty of room to allow the piece to fit shown in this second picture



How I think it goes


I am just not sure and have not got any answers yet so I'm hoping I get lucky on here and that someone can help me out or suggest something. Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2018, 11:54 AM   #2
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You should have gotten instructions with the coilovers from AST on how to assemble them. Are you saying you didn't get any install instructions?

Have you tried going to the AST website, or contact the vendor you bought them from?

Many times vendors are just posting instructions on their website to save the cost of printing and including instructions.

That "black spacer thingy" may or may not be needed for your application.
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Old 02-05-2018, 02:13 PM   #3
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does question mark spacer not fit into the bottom of the bearing? Looks like it should go there to allow articulation.
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:49 PM   #4
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Assembly order:

1) Perch onto spring
2) Spacer should be a torington bearing. Lip of spacer SHOULD just into the perch
3) ?? conical spacer - big side down lip side up
4) top hat
5) tube nut
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Old 02-06-2018, 10:07 AM   #5
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Thanks for the replies everyone. This is what I got from the Vendor I bought the plates from. No instructions came with the camber plates, I bought them from a separate vendor who has been very helpful and has tried to contact AST too but no word yet. I'm not in a rush since these won't be going on for another month or two, just trying to get everything ready for when I do install.



The black tapered spacer thing does not fit into the bearing, it only fits at the top where the nut will bolt on, which doesn't make any sense to me. And the only other place it seems to fit is on the shaft of the shock like shown above in the 2nd picture.

I'm not sure about the Torrington bearing, the flat black plastic spacer shown in the first picture does have a free-moving/spinning part to it but I honestly do not know why it moves. I guess that can be the bearing? I'm kind of new to all this.

If put together with the perch, flat black spacer/bearing piece-lip inside the perch, then that conical tapered spacer big side down/lip side up will just butt up to the camber plate bottom, Is it supposed to be snug inside? I can try it and see how it looks.



This picture shows how I think it goes together but the flat black plastic spacer can still move up and down. That might change if installed on the car and then some weight once the car is back on the ground, I'm not sure. I never tightened the top nut when I set it up like this because I think the camber plates need to be installed on the car, then attach the shocks to them due to having to line up the plates in the correct spot on the shocks. I'm used to how the oem top hats can spin. If this doesn't work out, I'm probably just going to get a set of Vorshlag camber plates.
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:52 PM   #6
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I'm not sure if this helps any

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Old 02-06-2018, 02:16 PM   #7
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I can't really see what's going on with that big rubber thing on the bottom of the plate but it does seem like the lower bearing seat washer thing is already in place.

So question mark piece would get left out and it goes together like in your last picture.


To tighten the top nut you can use a strap wrench around the shock shaft and do it before installing on the car. You can try it with the car on the ground but it might still just spin the whole damper body.
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Old 02-06-2018, 08:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal View Post
I can't really see what's going on with that big rubber thing on the bottom of the plate but it does seem like the lower bearing seat washer thing is already in place.

So question mark piece would get left out and it goes together like in your last picture.


To tighten the top nut you can use a strap wrench around the shock shaft and do it before installing on the car. You can try it with the car on the ground but it might still just spin the whole damper body.
That rubber looking piece came attached as one piece with the camber plate, its kind of weird to me. Like you can pull it and stretch it out but its still attached by the rubber.

I'm going to try it like I have in the last picture because that is what is making sense to me, just wanted to check if anyone seen something wrong.

I will use the strap wrench on the shaft when I tighten the top nut, my other question is that the alignment of the plate itself. It doesn't spin freely like the oem top hats or any other camber plates I have used in my past. I feel like I would have to have the plate mounted on the car, then put the shock in place, put on all the bolts, then tighten the top nut while trying to use a strap wrench. Is there a way I can assemble them while not having them on the car? It throws me off not having the plates move freely. Like I can eyeball the exact location and tighten it all down, just think there is a easier way.. or that the plates are supposed to spin freely and I'm doing something wrong!

Thanks for your help
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Old 02-10-2018, 10:11 AM   #9
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Heard back from AST, I do not need to use that black tapered conical washer. That is only to be used with the 4000 series shocks. Only question I still have is about installing them onto the car/shock itself. Does it make sense to bolt the plate to the car, then fit the shock and tighten the top nut? Or is there a way I can line up the plate with the shock (off the car) and install it to the shock? Being that these plates do not rotate like the oem top hats. Any input would be appreciated. Either way I'm just going to have to try and see what works best.
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Old 02-10-2018, 11:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milab21 View Post
Heard back from AST, I do not need to use that black tapered conical washer. That is only to be used with the 4000 series shocks. Only question I still have is about installing them onto the car/shock itself. Does it make sense to bolt the plate to the car, then fit the shock and tighten the top nut? Or is there a way I can line up the plate with the shock (off the car) and install it to the shock? Being that these plates do not rotate like the oem top hats. Any input would be appreciated. Either way I'm just going to have to try and see what works best.
I would say, align as best as you can outside the car, then assemble the full strut.
Then, install. I have a hard time believing you can't twist the strut shaft to tweak the alignment to the knuckle once the top has a couple nuts on it.

Just my $0.02
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:07 PM   #11
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Those plates actually do rotate/pivot, or you wouldn't be able to turn your wheels or articulate the suspension. They use a spherical bearing which is probably just tight because they're new. Definitely assemble them off of the car.
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Old 02-10-2018, 09:09 PM   #12
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Yep, and that's a good thing. Cheap bearings generally aren't as tight and make noise and wear out quickly.

It's still a compromise using a bearing like that because they are much stronger in the other direction. Ground control makes my favorite camber plates because they sit above the tower to add bump travel and also they use a separate bearing surface for the spring so the weight of the car is not sitting on that single spherical bearing set sideways.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milab21 View Post
Heard back from AST, I do not need to use that black tapered conical washer. That is only to be used with the 4000 series shocks. Only question I still have is about installing them onto the car/shock itself. Does it make sense to bolt the plate to the car, then fit the shock and tighten the top nut? Or is there a way I can line up the plate with the shock (off the car) and install it to the shock? Being that these plates do not rotate like the oem top hats. Any input would be appreciated. Either way I'm just going to have to try and see what works best.
You install the camber plate to the coil-over, then you mount the whole unit to the car.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:14 AM   #14
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Which camber plates are these, where did you get them ?
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:39 AM   #15
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I hope they would rotate/spin, I just can't get them to. They look like it would move but maybe it is just that new and need to be broken in. I'm going to assemble the plates onto the shocks either today or tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks everyone for the information.

aldecam- these are AST's raised camber plates and I got them thru Cygnus performance, Geoff is a great person and super helpful, best vendor ever.
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