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Old 12-08-2012, 06:07 PM   #1
good_will
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Default How To: window glass and window motor assembly removal

I didn't see a how to anywhere for removing window components, and it would have helped me, so when I decided to wing it, I took pics and decided to do this write up.

This is on an 02 WRX Wagon. I bought a door from a 2004 STi, because mine was dented. However, I didn't realize that the WRX sedan has a shorter body than the wagons for 02-07, so the window came up short about an inch and a half. So I had to swap old window and motor assembly into the new door I got.

You'll need 10mm and 12mm sockets, a phillips screwdriver and a flathead for prying.

I didn't bother with pics for removing the door card, but in case you don't already know, to remove the door card:

Start with the window lowered all the way.
1. Remove the screw that you see looking down into the door cup behind the window controls.
2. Pop out the Window controls beginning with the rear and working your way forward, then disconnect it.
3. There should now be a phillips screw visible after you've removed the window controls. Remove that screw.
4. Remove the interior cover for the outside mirror. Just pop it out, starting at the bottom of the triangle.
5. Remove the trim piece around the door handle. It is not necessary to remove the door handle itself, so leave that screw in.
6. Remove door card by popping it out starting at the bottom, then push it up so it can slide out from above the door, where the window comes out.

You should now be looking at a bare door (with the clear plastic seal)
Now that you're to this point, remove the speaker, the tweeter (if you have one), the handle (in blue box below), as well as the pink things at the top of the door (in green boxes below). Also disconnect the cable to the mirror.



Now you should be looking at a bare door with nothing in your way, and you're ready to get started on the actual window components. Notice that the window motor is still connected (blue cable) - you'll want to reattach the window controls now to operate the window for a bit longer.




Pictured below, there are two bolts at the top of the door that you'll want to remove. These two bolts are on sliders, and they are used for adjusting the maximum height that the window can rise to. There is one towards the front, and one towards the rear. Note the orientation so that you remember when putting them back in.




Remove the rear height adjustment bolt by loosening it then sliding it up to the hole where the bolt head can pass through. Then you can either let it fall to the bottom of the door and get it later, or try to wiggle it up through the top, where you'll probably fail to get it out and it'll fall to the bottom of the door anyway.
Rear height adjustment bolt:



Remove the forward height adjustment bolt by sticking your hand behind it through the top to hold it while you loosen it. For this one, you'll remove the bolt completely.
Forward height adjustment bolt:



Now, there is nothing above the window preventing it from coming out. To remove the window glass, there are two nuts that you'll need to remove at the bottom of the window, a rear one and a forward one, but don't go taking them off just yet.

Here's the rear window nut:



Looking up through cavity where the speaker was, you can see the forward window nut:


Don't take those nuts out yet though, I'm just showing you where they are.

If you haven't already plugged in your window controls like I told you to earlier, go ahead and do that now. Raise the window now so that you can see the forward window nut through the hole behind the speaker cavity:



Now, you can remove the two window nuts. If you tried (like I did) to remove the forward window nut through the speaker cavity, you're likely to cut yourself on the metal when it comes loose, or strip the nut.

With the two nuts removed, there is nothing left holding the window in place. Push the window up from below until you can hold it from the top. The window should still be on the tracks, so pull it up and when it comes loose from the tracks, you'll have to do some serious wiggling and maneuvering until you can finally pull the window glass free of the door.

Next you'll want to remove the vertical window tracks. There is a forward track and a rear track, held in by three nuts each, as shown below:


After you have removed the six nuts holding in the tracks, you can slide them up fro the top of the door.

Lastly, to remove the window motor assembly, disconnect the motor first (orange arrow below). Then there are two nuts holding in a short horizontal track towards the rear of the door, a little less than halfway up. Remove those nuts.
Finally, remove the four nuts holding in the motor.



With all of those nuts removed, the motor assembly should be loose. slide the two horizontal tracks forward, and bring them together. Then do your wiggling and maneuvering again to get the entire assembly out through the huge cavity behind the speaker cavity.

And that's it!
Before you put it all back together, it's much easier to look at the window and tracks outside of the door, so don't put it in yet. Observe how the front track is not a while, but just a slider, and the rear track is a wheel. You'll be glad you noticed this later.

To put it all back, start with putting in the motor assembly. The motor can be full tightened right away. The short horizontal track has a little bit of adjustability. Once you get the bolts through the holes, tighten them up a little, then push it up to the max height before you tighten it all the way.

Next, put in the forward vertical track. Go ahead and tighten this one down all the way.
The rear vertical track has a lot of room for adjustment. Put it in and thread the nuts on VERY loosely.

Now slide the window glass in from the top. This is not easy, but be patient. Hopefully you checked earlier how the window goes into the tracks. Be gentle and don't force anything. once you get everything at the bottom of the glass past the opening at the top of the door, you can concentrate on lining up the roller/slider with the tracks.
Once these are lined up, guide the glass down to the bottom and line up the bolts in the window to the holes in the lower horizontal track of the motor assembly. Put the nuts on and go ahead and tighten them down all the way.
With the window in, you should be able to tighten down the rear track a bit. Raise and lower the window a bit to make sure it operate smoothly before you tighten them down all the way but DON'T raise the window all the way to the top! You still haven't put in the height adjusters in yet. Go ahead and put the height adjusters very loosely.
Raise the window very very slowly until it is at the desired height. Shut the door and open it to make sure the glass doesn't snag anything. If the height is good, push the adjusters down so the touch the bolts on the windows, then tighten them down all the way.

Put the clear plastic cover back on, put the tweeter and speaker back on, connect the mirror, the door handle, etc. Lower the window all the way before you put the door card on, it's easier that way. You should be able to handle it from here.
Good luck!
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:19 AM   #2
CodersWRX
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I absolutely love you for this. Thank you! this is going to help me out a ton!
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:09 PM   #3
kungfooren
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I just used the useful information in this post to remove and reinstall my driver's side glass. Thanks!

Note: As you may be able to deduce from these instructions, removing the speaker and tweeter are not necessary for remove and installing just the window. I also didn't have to remove the pink things at the top of the door. Took me a only few mins to wiggle the new window.
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:23 PM   #4
SubieMonte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kungfooren View Post
I just used the useful information in this post to remove and reinstall my driver's side glass. Thanks!

Note: As you may be able to deduce from these instructions, removing the speaker and tweeter are not necessary for remove and installing just the window. I also didn't have to remove the pink things at the top of the door. Took me a only few mins to wiggle the new window.
Did you have WIGGLY DRIVERS DOOR WINDOW SYNDROME? I have that and was wondering if/how you fixed it. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:27 PM   #5
mrfunnyguyky
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Just for anyone else with the same problem, what's the easiest way to do this if your window is stuck up? (my motor is bad)
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:46 PM   #6
good_will
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You should be able to disassemble the motor and tracks/regulator assembly with the window rolled up still, or at least get it loose enough to move the window into a position where you can access the window's nuts through some hole
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:09 PM   #7
SneakySh0rty
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Thank you for this write up! Will be using it sometime this week. Came out today to see someone smashed my driver rear window. -_-
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Old 09-14-2014, 05:26 PM   #8
AlxSti
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Thanks for this. My FXT motor is going and I'll need to replace the motor soon.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:15 AM   #9
Dr. octagon
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Bump why is this not sticky?
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #10
Eastpierce
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Mostly silver...

Default Same issue

I know this is old, but... I have the exact same problem; is it necessary to swap everything, or could I just switch the glass itself? Thanks.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:57 PM   #11
good_will
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If you're swapping from sedan to wagon or wagon to sedan, I believe you will need the both the glass and the tracks, not sure about the motor
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:45 PM   #12
ebeard
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will the motor come out without taking out the window and disassembling the tracks? Just unbolt the motor assembly and slide it out?
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:47 PM   #13
good_will
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Yeah if you're only trying to get the motor out, it will come out pretty easily without having to remove the glass
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:08 PM   #14
yuletak
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1992 kawasaki ex500

Default Great write up, but here are a few notes

So I just followed this guide to swap the glass out of my MY02. Here's the situation:

Crashed my MY02 sedan at Infineon. Bought a wagon door to replace, even though the seller (now out of business) told me it was a direct swap. Anyways, of course the window didn't fit. I bought a new motor assembly and new glass.

Notes:
  • Wagon glass is about 1.5" taller than sedan glass
  • Motor assemblies are the same
  • |Window glass tracks are the same

Basically, I just did a swap of the glass. It took almost 2 hours from start to finish from removing the door panel to putting it back in.

Thanks for the writeup, OP.
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:34 PM   #15
Ride Operator
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Great resource!

Driver's side window was binding/jamming before if finally got stuck.

Opened the door up and low and behold the window motor mount screws had really dug into the door and stretched the mounting holes pretty good, probably started slowly and worsened over time.

Window motor still works fine, going to a shop for their assessment on the mounting holes, not sure if there's a way to fix those. If so, then great. Otherwise, we'll see...
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:53 AM   #16
skwrl
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Awesome write up!

@good_will
Any chance you still have those photos and can upload to imgur or something? The links are gone
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Old 10-06-2020, 12:12 PM   #17
good_will
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Unfortunately, those pics are long gone, sorry. You'll just have to use your imagination.
I think I closed my photobucket account when it was no longer a free platform... and I also sold my subaru years ago.
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:11 PM   #18
Psleeper82
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so my forester 2006 passenger side window just stopped moving and also had a lot of play in it . by play i mean in and out wiggle from being pry open I'm guessing , it did since i had the car .
just wondering if i dont hear the window motor or window dont move atall is motor dead and is there a way to tighten up the in out play of the window or is it a replace certain parts deal. or are the two related ?
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:12 PM   #19
Psleeper82
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is there a list for window motor compatibility somewhere sorry im new just wondered if my forester had other models i can donor from ?
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