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Old 09-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #1
-=C=-
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Default Car Detailing 201 - going beyond the basics

School me OT. I don't own an orbital or a rotary buffer, or any kind of pro detailing products. I buy my stuff at Wal-Mart or Amazon or Advance Auto. I don't want to spend $$$. I want to go beyond the basic "wash it, dry it, cleaner, wax" and get a really good detail before a car meet later this month.

I'm looking to:

  • get rid of orange peel effect
  • remove minor swirls and webbing
  • give the car that nice show car look


I can google, but looking for Otter™ advice on products that won't break the bank, certain helpful vids, etc.




(let me guess, kill it with fire or piss on it)
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #2
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Good guess...but you really need to buff it into a clean coat of dicks.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #3
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ya know, there's actually really good info in the detailing forum.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=174


Phil (Detailer's Domain) knows his ****

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1400413
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:29 AM   #4
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I used to be all over the detailing forum, notsomuch anymore.

You aren't going to get rid of orange peel without wet sanding.

Last edited by 2k2; 09-05-2014 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:29 AM   #5
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I like Turtle Wax. I've been using it for years. Couple things to note:
Carnauba wax last 1-3 months while the synthetic stuff and can last a lot longer. However, the carnauba style well give it a really nice look.

Quote:
The drawback of carnauba waxes, if you can call it a drawback, is that it does not last as long as a synthetic sealant. A carnauba car wax finish will wear off in approximately 6 to 8 weeks. It depends heavily on the climate in which you live and whether or not your vehicle is garaged. Daily commutes in a hot, humid climate mean a shorter life span for your carnauba wax coat. If you enjoy regular waxing, then the life span of a carnauba wax is just one more reason to indulge in your favorite hobby!
Pinnacle Souverän***8482; sets the standard for carnauba paste waxes!
Pinnacle Souverän***8482; sets the standard
for carnauba paste waxes!

In a nutshell, carnauba car wax is the wax of enthusiasts. It appeals to people who want the absolute most stunning show car shine available and are willing to spend a couple of hours every month or so to get it. Most of them will tell you it is time well spent.
I've never used the clay bar stuff, but I hear it is good.
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html


Reading materials
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:31 AM   #6
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How much money are you looking to spend total?

Generally, the process looks like this:
Wash (2 bucket method)
Decontaminate
Clay
Wash
Polish
Seal/wax
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:33 AM   #7
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^Phil is good people.
We could certainly regurgitate it, but I would go to that forum.

While nuggets of "omg i m tryn to get spidr webz out of jbp how can i do it" or similar idiocy are there, it's a good place to check out.

EDIT: Cuddles linked you to a huge supply of info; go there. No idiots.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:42 AM   #8
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Once you see how expensive all the pads/orbital/products/etc... are and how easy it is to ruin paint, you'll probably just want to have a pro do it. It really is an art to get it done right. Not to mention it takes FOREVER.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:45 AM   #9
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I use a paste I make at home, its a mixture of gravel and rubbing alcohol. Works really well at getting the swirls out.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:45 AM   #10
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90% of the look you get is going to be based on the cleaning and prep you do, not the actual products you use. Detailing forums are chock full of pedantic comparisons of one $50 wax vs. some other, and the bottom line is that it basically is irrelevant, outside of some very general guidelines.

Also, be realistic about your goals. You're not going to eliminate orange peel without tools, or maybe even wet-sanding (depending on how bad). Even swirls and webbing are going to be a bitch w/o at least a random orbital buffer and pads.

My advice? If you don't want to invest heavily, keep it simple. Give it a quality wash, then use a clay bar (this will already have it much cleaner than you're probably used to). Now forget the Wal-Mart/AutoZone waxes and polishes, and the boutique 'car show' carnuba formulas, and instead use a synthetic sealant product.

I'm partial to Blackfire Crystal Seal: http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-crystal-seal.html
But there are others in the same product category.

And yes, it does go on as easily as advertised. You wipe it on, spread it out, and let it flash itself off. Takes me ~15 minutes to do my whole car. Lasts for a good couple months between applications. I will never go back to a traditional car wax on any car that I use as a daily driven vehicle again; technology has moved on.

It's not cheap @ $20/4oz, but I've gotten ~ 4 applications out of my bottle so far, and there's still ~2 left I'd estimate.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:45 AM   #11
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I need to wet sand about 50% of my car. The body shop that repaired it after I smushed a deer did an awful job. The paint is orange peeled and so is the clear coat. All reflections are a dull blur down one entire side.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badler View Post
how easy it is to ruin paint,
With modern Random Orbital Polishes, this couldn't be further from the truth.

OP, If you are on a budget, this would be my suggestion:

Wash: Duragloss 901 - $6.99/16oz
http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-ca...ncentrate.html

Wheel/Tire Cleaner: Mother's Foaming Wheel & Tire Cleaner - $6.99/24oz
http://www.autogeek.net/mo05924.html

Tire Dressing: Optimum Opti-Bond - $15.99/32oz
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti...-gel-32oz.html

Clay: Meguiars Clay Bar Kit - $20.99
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-smo...-clay-kit.html

Cleaner/Polish: Duragloss 105 - $11.99/16oz
http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-to...ce-polish.html

Wax: Collinite 845 - $17.99/16oz
http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-in...r-wax-845.html

Interior: 303 Aerospace Protectant - $7.99/10oz
http://www.autogeek.net/303aerprot8o.html

Of course you are going to need various brushes/sponges/microfiber towels, pads, etc as well.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .brian. View Post
With modern Random Orbital Polishes, this couldn't be further from the truth.
Depending on the age and condition of what he's trying to restore/clean, it's really not that hard to **** it up. Especially if he's not using the correct pads and compounds. He's trying to get rid of orange peel for chrissakes.

Last edited by Badler; 09-05-2014 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .brian. View Post
How much money are you looking to spend total?
I'd like to spend about $10 per "major" cleaning at the house. So if I can spend $50 on supplies that would last me 5 major cleanings, I'd be ok with that.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:55 AM   #15
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Image too big. It's a detailing flow chart.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/v/vspfil...ngflowchat.jpg
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:57 AM   #16
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1) Lookup detailers in your area.
2) Call each detailer.
3) Ask the detailer if they use a clay bar.
4) Repeat steps 2-3 until one tells you "yes".
5) Take your car there and pay them $150 to detail your car. It's cheaper in the long run and easier as well.
6) You're welcome.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:58 AM   #17
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Hey look, we agree on something!
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:59 AM   #18
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What color is your car? That is important.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:09 AM   #19
.brian.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -=C=- View Post
I'd like to spend about $10 per "major" cleaning at the house. So if I can spend $50 on supplies that would last me 5 major cleanings, I'd be ok with that.
That might be tough. You are also going to need some type of wash mitt, microfiber towels (a bunch), microfiber pads, wheel and tire brushes, applicators, and drying towel(s). You would probably spend $50 just on all of that stuff, and not buy a single (chemical) product.

With that being said, most of the products I listed above will last you a few washes, and some will last you a long time (Duragloss polish/Collinite/Optimum tire dressing).

Edit: Like others have said, to get rid of the orange peel, you are probably going to need to wet sand. And to eliminate the swirls/other defects, you will most likely need a polisher. Doing it by hand won't really cut it. You can still make it look decent, though.

Last edited by .brian.; 09-05-2014 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidnightSti05 View Post
What color is your car? That is important.

You should know. His thread took over OT for that day.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:13 AM   #21
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Seriously, I got my vette professionally detailed 5 years ago. With me doing minor detailing every now and then (maybe every 2-3 months?), the paint still looks great. I'll probably get it detailed again next year. $150 every 5-6 years? Yeah, not a big deal really. **** all the work that goes into doing a professional detail on a car.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidnightSti05 View Post
What color is your car? That is important.
gloss black metallic...like your...
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:17 AM   #23
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About 5yrs ago I bought all the **** to do it and then got burnt out about 4 hours into it. To do it right takes forever if you're not set-up/experienced for it. It's still sitting in a tub in the garage.

edit: Black? Good luck. You better hope SAAB paint isn't like Subaru paint.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebtarta View Post

You should know. His thread took over OT for that day.
didn't see it, I was probably in TO.
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:21 AM   #25
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C go do what 99% of the posts here suggested. Have it done by somebody else and be done.

Like Badler, I have the same thing only that mine are in a shoe box. if you want send me $50 via paypal and $50 for FAQURUG Font charity I will ship the shoe box with the stuff for free.
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