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Old 05-16-2005, 01:28 PM   #1
root
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Default Where to get Three Bond 1324 (or what is good replacement?)?

Service manual recommends Three Bond 1324, but I can find any place to buy it. I tried part number given in the manual at SubaruParts.com and it came up empty. Does anyone no were to get it or another brand's counterpart? I've been Googling with no luck so far.

FWIW, I'll be using it for the threads of oil galley plug.
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:14 PM   #2
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:26 PM   #3
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Thanks Uncle Scotty. I did come across those pages, but was unable to locate a seller (also a Loctite version). Might try and call them. Just seems like the stuff would be easy find on the Internet.
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by root
Thanks Uncle Scotty. I did come across those pages, but was unable to locate a seller (also a Loctite version). Might try and call them. Just seems like the stuff would be easy find on the Internet.

....loctite 542 crosses with S54 Holdtite.....
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:54 PM   #5
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Loctite 542 it will be. I managed to find it at one place. I imagine I could have gone with a number of other (and easier to find) products, even ones not listed as direct replacements. But I guess I feel a little better having at least attempted to get as close to possible what was recommended in the manual.
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by root
Loctite 542 it will be. I managed to find it at one place. I imagine I could have gone with a number of other (and easier to find) products, even ones not listed as direct replacements. But I guess I feel a little better having at least attempted to get as close to possible what was recommended in the manual.
I'm glad somebody else thinks that way, too....I'd rather do it right ONCE and be done with it.
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Old 05-17-2005, 10:00 AM   #7
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I can't find the 542 on Loctite's website but their 567 is a close match to the Three Bond 1324. Both are anerobic Methacrlyic based sealants. The 567 has a slightly higher temperature range though of up to 204 degrees C. vs. 150 degrees for the Three Bond.

I got a tube of 567 from a Yamaha dealer for $15.95 under their part number ACC-56747-PS-T0.
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Old 05-17-2005, 10:18 AM   #8
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Thanks for pointing out 567. Lots of options it seems. Here are the data sheets on 542 and 567.

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/542-EN.PDF

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/567-EN.PDF

From these two, I think the 542 is a little closer to what I'm looking for. Though I'm sure they would both work. At least one thing that caught my eye was the Chemical/Solvent Resistance table. Both were listed as maintaining 100% strength when exposed to motor oil over long periods of time, but for some reason the 542 was tested with 125 degrees C oil, while they only tested the 567 at 40 degrees C. Maybe it means nothing and they just didn't test 567 at the temp for no particular reason, but since this is going in the engine block and will be exposed to motor oil at least up to 100C easy, I'll choose the one tested at that temp and above.
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Old 08-09-2006, 05:54 PM   #9
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:40 PM   #10
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I realize this is an old bump, but as this is one of the first Google results when you search for Three Bond 1324, I figured I'd clarify:

Three Bond 1324 = Loctite 243 (the *new* blue, replacing 242)

The specs are almost identical, with Loctite 243 having a considerably broader operating range of temperatures.

Three Bond 1324 is red in color, but the Three Bond brand uses the following color coding:

Blue = low strength (= Loctite purple)
Red = medium strength (= Loctite blue)
Green = high strength (= Loctite red)

Green in Loctite threadlocking compounds is a wicking variant; this color is also used in retaining compound (retaining compounds are for locking smooth collars to smooth shafts, such as transmission bearings). Retaining compounds can be used to lock threads in a pinch, but they are NOT the intended application.

These color rules-of-thumb are not always true; when in doubt, contact the manufacturer of your desired threadlocking compound and they'll do the leg-work for you (as I did before posting this).

TL;DR - Henkel reviewed the Three Bond 1324 datasheet for me and said Loctite 243 is the equivalent. I reviewed a number of datasheets and would agree with this assessment.
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Old 11-21-2018, 12:08 PM   #11
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Thx! Reading this thread I was asking myself why an anaerobic material would be used for the areas where 1324 is recommended in the FSM.

I was expecting an antiseize or a loctite as a tb 1324 substitute.... Loctite it is.
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:58 PM   #12
Elbert Bass
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Another option for Three Bond 1324 is 3M™ High-Strength Threadlocker #08730
This is from "Recommended Materials" TSB 01-167-08R revised in 2017
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Old 01-08-2019, 08:30 PM   #13
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News 1217H is the new 1324... maybe

Sorry to bump an old thread again, but I too was in the hunt for ThreeBond 1324 because I was replacing the PCV valve on my 2015 Legacy 3.6R and the factory service manual calls for the ThreeBond 1324.

I went to my local Subaru dealer and asked for 1324, and what they gave me was 1217H. When I look at ThreeBond's website, it makes more sense that 1217H would be the correct product for this application (or any application that specifies the use of a liquid gasket maker). The FSM says to "Apply liquid gasket to the threads of the PCV valve. Liquid Gasket: ThreeBond 1324 or equivalent."

According to ThreeBond's own website, 1324 is listed as an adhesive, not a liquid gasket, and based on all of the different Loctite products that I've seen floated as alternatives (Loctite 243, 271, etc), TB 1324 is correctly classified as an adhesive, which means I think its specification in the FSM was a mistake.

TB 1217H is categorized on ThreeBond's website as "liquid gasket" and its primary attributes are stated as "Initial resistance to pressure, oil resistant" which, to me, sounds exactly correct for something like the threads on a PCV valve.

I don't know if this substitution of 1217H instead of 1324 was something within Subaru as a whole, or just the dealership I went to, but they said that they use 1217H for everything that requires liquid gasket. It was also not cheap. ~$40 for a ~5 oz bottle.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat4Boxer View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread again, but I too was in the hunt for ThreeBond 1324 because I was replacing the PCV valve on my 2015 Legacy 3.6R and the factory service manual calls for the ThreeBond 1324.

I went to my local Subaru dealer and asked for 1324, and what they gave me was 1217H. When I look at ThreeBond's website, it makes more sense that 1217H would be the correct product for this application (or any application that specifies the use of a liquid gasket maker). The FSM says to "Apply liquid gasket to the threads of the PCV valve. Liquid Gasket: ThreeBond 1324 or equivalent."

According to ThreeBond's own website, 1324 is listed as an adhesive, not a liquid gasket, and based on all of the different Loctite products that I've seen floated as alternatives (Loctite 243, 271, etc), TB 1324 is correctly classified as an adhesive, which means I think its specification in the FSM was a mistake.

TB 1217H is categorized on ThreeBond's website as "liquid gasket" and its primary attributes are stated as "Initial resistance to pressure, oil resistant" which, to me, sounds exactly correct for something like the threads on a PCV valve.

I don't know if this substitution of 1217H instead of 1324 was something within Subaru as a whole, or just the dealership I went to, but they said that they use 1217H for everything that requires liquid gasket. It was also not cheap. ~$40 for a ~5 oz bottle.

Hope this helps
The information I quoted is the "Official" Subaru substitution from a TSB that they update regularly. When you remove a PCV valve it is obvious a thread-locker product was used when installing it - possibly because it is an emission item.
I see no problem using 1217H - I use that for PCV valves myself - because I already have the tube in my gun, and I am using it when reassembling engines. Our parts department does not stock 1324 or any Locktite.
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post
The information I quoted is the "Official" Subaru substitution from a TSB that they update regularly. When you remove a PCV valve it is obvious a thread-locker product was used when installing it - possibly because it is an emission item.
I see no problem using 1217H - I use that for PCV valves myself - because I already have the tube in my gun, and I am using it when reassembling engines. Our parts department does not stock 1324 or any Locktite.
Interesting. That is strange because when I removed my PCV valve, what was on there was definitely more gasket maker than thread lock. It was grey, rubbery, and had definite body to it (so, probably 1217H or something very similar), unlike a threadlocker which just looks like paint on the threads. It's possible that the PCV I just removed (car has 47,000 miles) is not original to the car. Either way, it seems like maybe different dealers have different substitutes for the TB 1324 that span different product types. Very unusual. You would think they would all be mandated to use the same thing by SOA. I know you said the TSB you referenced does include official guidance from Subaru on what the replacement for TB 1324 should be, but it seems that the dealers have freedom to ignore that and use something else, like 1217H. Clear as mud!
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat4Boxer View Post
Interesting. That is strange because when I removed my PCV valve, what was on there was definitely more gasket maker than thread lock. It was grey, rubbery, and had definite body to it (so, probably 1217H or something very similar), unlike a threadlocker which just looks like paint on the threads. It's possible that the PCV I just removed (car has 47,000 miles) is not original to the car. Either way, it seems like maybe different dealers have different substitutes for the TB 1324 that span different product types. Very unusual. You would think they would all be mandated to use the same thing by SOA. I know you said the TSB you referenced does include official guidance from Subaru on what the replacement for TB 1324 should be, but it seems that the dealers have freedom to ignore that and use something else, like 1217H. Clear as mud!
Has the vehicle ever had a shortblock replacement or major block repair? If the answer is yes then I refer you back to "because I already have the tube in my gun, and I am using it when reassembling engines". They ALL come fom Gunma with thread locker type product on the PCV valve.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post
Has the vehicle ever had a shortblock replacement or major block repair? If the answer is yes then I refer you back to "because I already have the tube in my gun, and I am using it when reassembling engines". They ALL come fom Gunma with thread locker type product on the PCV valve.
Not sure about major engine work; I’m the second owner. Probably not the original PCV valve.
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:09 PM   #18
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Last dealer I worked at didn't stock (or ever replace) PCV valves, and considering they're a source of potential oil consumption, I was irked by their refusal to order some. The dealer I worked at prior to that replaced them as part of the 30k I believe, but definitely the 60k. They're cheap. It's poor service to ignore them, in my opinion.

That said, I always just used PFTE sealant on them.
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
Last dealer I worked at didn't stock (or ever replace) PCV valves, and considering they're a source of potential oil consumption, I was irked by their refusal to order some. The dealer I worked at prior to that replaced them as part of the 30k I believe, but definitely the 60k. They're cheap. It's poor service to ignore them, in my opinion.

That said, I always just used PFTE sealant on them.
That’s wild. I know a guy who’s a Subaru tech and he said PCV valves should be replaced every 30k miles, especially on the 3.6. It’s a $20 part that will save you untold hundreds/thousands in engine oil seal replacements. It’s a no brainer to me.
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