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Old 06-23-2016, 08:37 PM   #10576
ultimategnar
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I have searched but can't find a answer.
I just swapped my 02 wrx with a v7 207. Since the first O2 sensor is behind the turbo where my 205's second O2 sensor was.
Do I plug my O2 sensor in up on the passenger fender area or keep it plugged in where my 205's second sensor plugged in?

Any help would be great. I have to codes p0031 and p0519
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:01 PM   #10577
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Ball-park, I'd say 2000-2400 USD before shipping... but I REEEEALLY don't like to ball-park parts that exceed about 250 USD; the prices often vary wildly from my last recorded pricing 'snapshot' (one example - the price on the 13:1 rack and hydraulic handbrake cylinders rose 400 USD each in one day due to a catalog-wide pricing adjustment on high dollar items... much to my chagrin, as I was ordering those items). Also, the daily change in JPY to USD conversion makes a huge difference once you approach these price levels.

Now the good news - freight shipping from Japan to me is usually a flat-rate around 150-200 USD for large items. Smaller items start around 80 USD express shipping and I think the highest I've paid is ~120 USD. When I say smaller items, I mean anything from a single bolt up to maybe an intercooler-sized package. Express-only delivery service means that I don't see postage of less than 80 USD often.

Now here's the other kicker - I cannot drop-ship. Importer ships to the address on my account (freight, for large items such as doors, glass, trunks, engines), then I have to ship to you. Before anyone starts to panic - this is not a business for me, just a way of helping board members out when they need oddball JDM parts.
Bad news - GR series motors do not have a short-block part no.; in fact, no EJ207 engines have a short block p/n within Japan.

More bad news - the 10103AB470 part no. (early GD-era EJ207 short block w/forged pistons) was created as a one-time affair for EXPORT (from Japan) only. This is why you could buy it in Australia (or other countries that got the GD-series EJ207) - it was created to prevent the need to send a ton of parts to a dealership outside of Japan for a lower end rebuild.

If you want a 2008+ EJ207, you can buy a full (new) motor, buy a used motor, or build it from bare components. Also, since I only import from Japan, I cannot actually obtain the 10103AB470 short block as all my parts start out as domestic (Japan) purchases through FHI.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:52 PM   #10578
roidz
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Do you guys know where to get a v8 service manual? I've been searching forever and haven't come up with anything JDM wise.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:44 PM   #10579
Gigs90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Bad news - GR series motors do not have a short-block part no.; in fact, no EJ207 engines have a short block p/n within Japan.

More bad news - the 10103AB470 part no. (early GD-era EJ207 short block w/forged pistons) was created as a one-time affair for EXPORT (from Japan) only. This is why you could buy it in Australia (or other countries that got the GD-series EJ207) - it was created to prevent the need to send a ton of parts to a dealership outside of Japan for a lower end rebuild.

If you want a 2008+ EJ207, you can buy a full (new) motor, buy a used motor, or build it from bare components. Also, since I only import from Japan, I cannot actually obtain the 10103AB470 short block as all my parts start out as domestic (Japan) purchases through FHI.
Sounds like I will be importing from straya if the need ever appears
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:18 PM   #10580
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigs90 View Post
Sounds like I will be importing from straya if the need ever appears
I think it'd just be easier to buy the block and build it with pistons of your own choice.
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:33 PM   #10581
Gigs90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
I think it'd just be easier to buy the block and build it with pistons of your own choice.
Perhaps , We will cross that bridge if the time ever comes
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:29 AM   #10582
Vlad
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Or go to the Info thread, to the rallispec postings read about what they offer and buy one of their assembled shortblocks, with the GRB castings and uprated pistons.
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Old 06-25-2016, 12:31 PM   #10583
mrsaturn7085
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They build them in-house... I don't know how that differs from you building one yourself, given the tools.
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:58 AM   #10584
Vlad
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In the case of Rallispec, I'd like to think it is.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:50 AM   #10585
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if youre gonna build a 2.0L, buying a EJ207 case is pointless. the awesomeness and reliability comes from factory assembly.

if you want a strong 2L case, get a closed deck from outfront. they are only like $1000
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:10 AM   #10586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdh7711 View Post
So I am having a shuddering or studdering issue going on mainly when im under boost and load in the higher gears 5th and 6th. Car has been great for the past two years until recently (V7 swap into a 2004 WRX btw).

Lower gears I tend to hit full boost target of 20 psi but sometimes ill get where I can only hit 15 or so psi. In 5th and especially 6th I could only get maybe 7psi boost before the studdering started kicking in and power lose.

There are no CEL codes it does not pop any.

So far I have done the following: Replaced spark plugs, replaced coil packs, Replaced fuel pump, cleaned IACV, cleaned MAF, replaced fuel filter.

Kind of at a lose on what else this could be. The coil packs were just recently done and it feels to be doing it less/not as bad as before.

Anyone got a MAF locally I could try swapping out see if that's maybe bad?

Thoughts?

(side not: I had put ina bottle of techron about a month plus back and ran that tank of gas halfway through before doing the spark plugs. That is when this issue came about not sure if that would factor in any. its been several tank fulls since then and no change.)

This sounds almost identical to the issues I had after I let a local "tuner" touch my car. Is this happening at WOT only? Black or grey coil packs? Did you replace the coil packs with another used set?
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:33 AM   #10587
ToneWrx02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB313 View Post
This sounds almost identical to the issues I had after I let a local "tuner" touch my car. Is this happening at WOT only? Black or grey coil packs? Did you replace the coil packs with another used set?
Sounds like coilpacks to me
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:44 PM   #10588
MikeB313
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Yup^ happened to me and the tuner wasn't knowledgable enough to detect it and kept dumping in fuel and once I found the problem and changed coil packs it ran perfect but damage had been done and the bearing spun within a couple miles.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:30 AM   #10589
sdh7711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB313 View Post
This sounds almost identical to the issues I had after I let a local "tuner" touch my car. Is this happening at WOT only? Black or grey coil packs? Did you replace the coil packs with another used set?
Lower gears happens at WOT, not going WOT in 5th or 6th. Anytime I give it some boost though in 5th or 6th and get over 7psi it starts doing the shuddering.

Replaced the coil packs with brand new OEM V7 packs. Believe those were the black ones. I still have the old ones that were pulled out, there a way to test them see if they are faulty? Other than swapping them into a car that is?

Wicked Innovations did the swap here, they have been doing them for years and I haven't touched the tune since it has been done two years ago.
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:06 AM   #10590
MikeB313
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Those symptoms still sound like the issues I had... I'm mechanic trained but no subi tech but I'd go through those coil packs again
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Old 06-27-2016, 01:08 AM   #10591
MikeB313
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P.s. If all else fails then drink tequila and stare at the car... It somehow works for me ALOT!
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:21 AM   #10592
Gigs90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdh7711 View Post
Lower gears happens at WOT, not going WOT in 5th or 6th. Anytime I give it some boost though in 5th or 6th and get over 7psi it starts doing the shuddering.

Replaced the coil packs with brand new OEM V7 packs. Believe those were the black ones. I still have the old ones that were pulled out, there a way to test them see if they are faulty? Other than swapping them into a car that is?

Wicked Innovations did the swap here, they have been doing them for years and I haven't touched the tune since it has been done two years ago.
I would start with data logs then go from there
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:18 PM   #10593
Archane
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Question, I was running my 205 ECU before I sourced my replacement V7 ECU. I was running the Torque app with an ELM327 bluetooth adapters. Since I put in the new ECU it will connect but doesn't display a damn thing. I have been searching around and what little I can find pointed to the ODBKey as the only option but it would be nearly the same price for a Tactrix cable.

anyone else have this issue with their 207 and if you have found a solution can you point me in the right direction?
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:26 AM   #10594
D-Rodman
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Are you above 3,000 rpm when
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:49 AM   #10595
AFBeefcake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archane View Post
Question, I was running my 205 ECU before I sourced my replacement V7 ECU. I was running the Torque app with an ELM327 bluetooth adapters. Since I put in the new ECU it will connect but doesn't display a damn thing. I have been searching around and what little I can find pointed to the ODBKey as the only option but it would be nearly the same price for a Tactrix cable.

anyone else have this issue with their 207 and if you have found a solution can you point me in the right direction?
I haven't tried torque with my v7 ecu, do have a ELM327 Bluetooth adaptor, just haven't tried it, but I do use BtSsm with a OTG USB cable and a VAG com cable and it works fine.

I believe the v7 ECU uses a different protocol then the USDM 205 ecu. my travelers insurance Intellidrive does not work with the v7 ecu ether.
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:09 PM   #10596
Titter
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do i need SLIM fans to fit an aluminum racing rad?

im worried about the clearance between the twin scroll exhaust manifold and the oem fans due to the extra width of the rad.

any of you twin scroll guys have all-aluminum (mishi, koyo, cx, whatever brand) rads and oem fans with no issues?
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:18 PM   #10597
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I have an all aluminum and OEM fans. The thing you need to be more worried about is the upper radiator hose. I've gone through two hoses due to the fans chewing through them
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Old 06-29-2016, 12:44 PM   #10598
Titter
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duely noted. thanks bud!
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Old 06-29-2016, 01:29 PM   #10599
Archane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titter View Post
do i need SLIM fans to fit an aluminum racing rad?

im worried about the clearance between the twin scroll exhaust manifold and the oem fans due to the extra width of the rad.

any of you twin scroll guys have all-aluminum (mishi, koyo, cx, whatever brand) rads and oem fans with no issues?
I'm running a Koyo with OEM fans, with no hose issues. It's close, I have thought about trimming the ends of the hose just to pull the bends in toward the necks a bit, but not a single mark on them and i've had this setup running for nearly 2 years.
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:03 PM   #10600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archane View Post
I'm running a Koyo with OEM fans, with no hose issues. It's close, I have thought about trimming the ends of the hose just to pull the bends in toward the necks a bit, but not a single mark on them and i've had this setup running for nearly 2 years.
I have the same setup

Aftermarket radiator with OEM fans, but I did trim the upper hose for better alignment. No issues.
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