Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday December 11, 2019
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-30-2018, 10:10 PM   #11576
Fierysun
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 82745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:
2005 Subaru STI
2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza WR Rex View Post
If anyone is curious, I finally got my motor apart... version 8 EJ207. All 4 pistons had cracked ringlands, some in multiple areas. Despite this, two cylinders were still holding compression.

This happened when I was tracking the car, liquid oil flowed through the head vents and filled up my AOS before proceeding straight into the intake. My suspension setup isn't that crazy (PSS9 coilovers + 24mm swaybars), although the car is caged. The solution is an "oil control valve" made by Killer B, which costs ~$300.

Something to seriously consider if you are tracking your car.
That sucks! Which AOS were you using?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Fierysun is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 01-31-2018, 03:23 AM   #11577
Impreza WR Rex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 40060
Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Santa Monica
Vehicle:
2002 EJ207 Bug-STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
That sucks! Which AOS were you using?
Crawford
Impreza WR Rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2018, 03:43 PM   #11578
Gigs90
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 306719
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Troy ,Michigan
Vehicle:
2003 Sti Wagon
@jn_garage

Default

That sounds more like a crappy AOS design than an issue with oiling. I know a bunch of guys who run slicks in NASA and never have had that but they empty their catch cans after each race.

Its not a surprise that a company that makes maf spacers has a lackluster product for oil control.
Gigs90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2018, 07:15 AM   #11579
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

the AOS isnt the issue. i know dozens running crawford on that track and never had this issue. 100% a user error or installation error.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2018, 09:56 AM   #11580
Bansheeboy11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182415
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: New York
Vehicle:
1999 RS
Aspen White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Titter View Post
the AOS isnt the issue. i know dozens running crawford on that track and never had this issue. 100% a user error or installation error.
This ^ more than half the AOS installs i see people do, they muck up the height and angles of the hoses which causes more problems than it fixes.
Bansheeboy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2018, 03:05 PM   #11581
Impreza WR Rex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 40060
Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Santa Monica
Vehicle:
2002 EJ207 Bug-STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bansheeboy11 View Post
This ^ more than half the AOS installs i see people do, they muck up the height and angles of the hoses which causes more problems than it fixes.
It happens from oil flowing through the head ports. Not an installation or AOS issue. If you have a stiff enough suspension setup, on a high speed sweeper it can happen. The Killer B valve is the only fix for this I've come across.
Impreza WR Rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2018, 09:17 AM   #11582
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

yes exactly but if the AOS was installed lower than intended (ie: installed incorrectly), it is alot easier to push oil into it through G-forces.

+1 for that killer B valve tho, its sweet.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2018, 09:57 AM   #11583
Bansheeboy11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182415
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: New York
Vehicle:
1999 RS
Aspen White

Default

The oil will flow up into the hoses, eventually it can/will accumulate to the point where your getting entirely too much liquid oil into it and will not drain fast enough from the AOS and get sucked back into the motor, more so if the hoses have dips/droops on their run from the motor up to the AOS. Firstly, i absolutely love the Killer B guys and everything they do, i have a bunch of their stuff on both of my cars, but that oil control valve is an expensive solution for a simple problem. Sure some AOS units work better than others, but ive never had an issue with ones that has the hoses routed correctly, ive even cut/upsized hoses that come with the units when installing them on cars how i see fit.

Even lengthening a hose by coiling it before reaching the AOS can add enough volume to allow oil to drain back if it does come out of the head, that costs $3.50 as apposed to $350
Bansheeboy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2018, 12:36 AM   #11584
Impreza WR Rex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 40060
Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Santa Monica
Vehicle:
2002 EJ207 Bug-STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Titter View Post
yes exactly but if the AOS was installed lower than intended (ie: installed incorrectly), it is alot easier to push oil into it through G-forces.

+1 for that killer B valve tho, its sweet.
Yeah I see what you're saying. The Crawford has a welded-on bracket that mounts to the strut tower though, so it can't be installed in a different position. Regardless, I'm not a fan of having oil come out of the engine. I don't want to band-aid the problem by trying to loop hoses or hope the angles are such that it won't make it to the AOS.

This doesn't seem to be a common issues for folks, so I probably just got unlucky. That said, I spoke with Mark Jager and Yimmi Sport at the track and they told me it happened to their Time Attack cars so now they install the valve. It is expensive, but after killing one engine from this I'm just going to bite the cost!
Impreza WR Rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2018, 10:43 PM   #11585
Blaze13rex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 431541
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Ice Silver Metallic

Default

Just wanted to say I'm happy to finally be in the club. This weekend I took out the EJ205 of my 04 wrx with 205,000 on the odometer and replaced it with a v9 EJ207 running a 581 ecu from a v8. Still on the stock 5 speed but its got a fresh new clutch and flywheel. Did all the maintenence items that I could including a new 06-07 sti oil pan, killer bee pickup, oem timing belt and water pump, valve cover gaskets,ngk 2667 plugs, cam seals, and front and rear main seals. I also replaced most of the vacuum and coolant hoses. In case anyone is wondering my v9 pcv is the same as the 02-03-wrx not like the sti or later wrx. There was a sandwich plate adapter on the oil cooler and I deleted that and replaced the oil cooler gasket. It also had the blue t fitting for the spt boost gauge in the bov line which i reused in my new line. I pulled the exhaust manifold and up-pipe to replace the gaskets and found aftermarket gaskets at the head. The rest were the oem triple layer. These were the only modifications found with the motor. It shipped with the factory v9 downpipe which bolted up directly to my oem sti catback. I may have the only completely stock ej207 ever swapped lol. I even bought a new factory 2 port and have my cobb 3 port in case i need it in the future. Factory boost pill was swapped to new factory t hose. One interesting thing is that my NPS needed to be inverted its value at byte 1995 was f7 and needed to be switched to f6. Very easy to do with any free hex editor though i don't know how to do anything else with it nor would i try. My tune is being done via e-tune with Stephen Clark at IaTuning. I am only on my first map revision but it is knock free and light years better than my 205. Can't wait to finish the tune on this and start throwing some power at it. The info available in this thread was priceless and i want to thank everyone that contributed. I did take about 100 pictures if there is anything anyone would like a closer look at feel free to ask.

Last edited by Blaze13rex; 02-06-2018 at 10:46 PM. Reason: typo
Blaze13rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2018, 11:54 PM   #11586
NewSilverWRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58485
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago IL
Vehicle:
2004 RASC.207 WRX 5M
PSM

Default

Allow me to be the first to congratulate you on your swap. Your post could literally be mine in a few weeks (hopefully). I purchased a V9 (Spec C) to swap into my '04 WRX. I have many questions, but since I'm gathering parts I'll start with the important ones if you don't mind.

Why did you replace the oil pan? If this is something I need to read through this thread to figure out just say so. I'm working on it.

Did you do all of the timing components or just the belt and pump? I'm on the fence on this.

Lastly (for now), did yours have only the sandwich plate or was that in addition to the oil/water cooler? Mine has just the Spec C option plate and I'm debating whether to use an external cooler or swap in an oil/water for now.

For the group here, has anyone done the homework to figure out a suitable replacement for the external oil cooler? I'm not gonna source the expensive OEM unit when I'm sure there has to be some good local options, but info on the factory unit seems scarce.
NewSilverWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 07:27 AM   #11587
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NewSilverWRX View Post
Allow me to be the first to congratulate you on your swap. Your post could literally be mine in a few weeks (hopefully). I purchased a V9 (Spec C) to swap into my '04 WRX. I have many questions, but since I'm gathering parts I'll start with the important ones if you don't mind.



Why did you replace the oil pan? If this is something I need to read through this thread to figure out just say so. I'm working on it.



Did you do all of the timing components or just the belt and pump? I'm on the fence on this.



Lastly (for now), did yours have only the sandwich plate or was that in addition to the oil/water cooler? Mine has just the Spec C option plate and I'm debating whether to use an external cooler or swap in an oil/water for now.



For the group here, has anyone done the homework to figure out a suitable replacement for the external oil cooler? I'm not gonna source the expensive OEM unit when I'm sure there has to be some good local options, but info on the factory unit seems scarce.


get a cooler core and use your spec-c oil cooler. its thermostatic. any cooler core can be plumbed in. i have a b&m super core cooling mine. works great. iíll post pics in a bit.

do your timing components and water pump. youíll need a 2 port water pump from a usdm 2008 wrx.

Last edited by Titter; 02-07-2018 at 07:54 AM.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 07:30 AM   #11588
Blaze13rex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 431541
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Ice Silver Metallic

Default

Thank you newsilver

I replaced the oil pan for no reason really. If you go onto killer bees website they show the differences in the oil pans. The 06-07 oil pan is supposed to have the best factory baffling. The pan on mine was fine but many motors are sitting on it and it can get bent. I didn't want to take any chances so I had it ordered before the motor even came.

I did every timing component including cam seals and every other seal. No reason not to change everything. Seals looked fine but not worth the risk of having to take it all back apart. While you have the belt off and the left cam gears off is the easiest time to check and be sure the driverside head avcs line does not have a filter in it. The banjo bolt sits right behind the left side timing cover.

Mine had the sandwich plate with the regular water oil cooler. No spec-c oil cooler on my motor. I pulled the cooler to replace the o-ring at the block but reused mine.

If you go to the EJ207 info thread last page I asked about the oil cooler, MrSaturn shows a good option for an air oil cooler relatively inexpensive. I stayed with the water cooler but definitely something to consider in the future.
Blaze13rex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 07:44 AM   #11589
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?





its mounted behind the fog light. gets lots of air even with the foglight in place. at the track, pull the fog light for max airflow.

Last edited by Titter; 02-07-2018 at 07:50 AM.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 12:00 PM   #11590
08OBS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 274397
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NNJ
Vehicle:
2005 WRX V9 207
2018 Colorado Duramax

Default

Titter what is your exact setup? I plan on installing an oil cooler this spring and I was debating what to go with for everything.
08OBS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 02:27 PM   #11591
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

its a version 9 spec-c. uses the oem thermostatic sandwich plate. the motor didnt come with the oil cooler core so i bought that b&m one and plumbed it up with AN fittings. what i posted is pretty much it. its a very simple setup. i did a trans cooler install writeup in the transmission section. its the exact same thing except trans oil.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2797968

my setup it the same on both sides. passenger side is engine oil, driver side is trans oil.



if you are buying a new kit, my only advise is buy a thermostatic kit. some sandwich plates are not thermostatic and will constantly flow oil through them which isnt always beneficial. you really only need to cool down if it gets too hot which the thermostat does (works the same as a coolant thermostat). you need your oil to be at operating temp and having it constantly cooled can be bad if you live in a cold climate. if you live in the desert and its hot all the time then it wont affect you as much, perhaps not at all.

Last edited by Titter; 02-07-2018 at 02:36 PM.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 02:41 PM   #11592
Hyper
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 15822
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MOCKBA
Vehicle:
1999 WRB GM6
2.34 LR destroker

Default

I am selling my V9 Spec C thermostatic kit if anyone is interested

Titter, how is the hot air vented out? You should also look into some ducting, it helps a ton
Hyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 03:05 PM   #11593
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

yea there are improvements to be made. currently the air exits on the side and into the engine bay. i might be installing side vents in the fenders so the air has a better through passage than being forced into the engine bay
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 03:32 PM   #11594
Bansheeboy11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 182415
Join Date: Jun 2008
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: New York
Vehicle:
1999 RS
Aspen White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Titter View Post
yea there are improvements to be made. currently the air exits on the side and into the engine bay. i might be installing side vents in the fenders so the air has a better through passage than being forced into the engine bay
Vent it to the lower portion of the wheel well
Bansheeboy11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 03:38 PM   #11595
Hyper
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 15822
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MOCKBA
Vehicle:
1999 WRB GM6
2.34 LR destroker

Default

this is what I did on my car recently







since air follows the path of least resistance, it will go everywhere around the cooler unless you force it, so as you see I tried to seal it as much as possible, and I made vents in the wheel linear for the hot air to escape
Hyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 08:45 PM   #11596
mrsaturn7085
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 375462
Join Date: Dec 2013
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2006 Impreza WRX STI
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
since air follows the path of least resistance, it will go everywhere around the cooler unless you force it, so as you see I tried to seal it as much as possible, and I made vents in the wheel linear for the hot air to escape
This guy gets it.

Many people omit the most important steps because often they appeal trivial. First unofficial rule of physics - nature hates doing work for you unless you force it to.
mrsaturn7085 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 09:56 PM   #11597
Titter
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 416107
Join Date: Mar 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Ontario, Canada
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
EJ207 Spec C 4EAT

Default EJ207 Owners?

yea the way i have setup right now isnt optimal. fog lights are out permanently now. with the fender vents i wanna make, air will travel in and hit the top of the core, then travel down and the out the fender. will add a shroud aswell.
Titter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2018, 11:00 AM   #11598
Gigs90
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 306719
Join Date: Jan 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Troy ,Michigan
Vehicle:
2003 Sti Wagon
@jn_garage

Default

That ducting is beautiful
Gigs90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2018, 11:52 PM   #11599
NewSilverWRX
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58485
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago IL
Vehicle:
2004 RASC.207 WRX 5M
PSM

Default

Thanks for the responses. New pan and timing definitely makes sense. I'm a little concerned about that oil cooler location since I plan to get back into rallycross, but at least now I see it will be pretty easy to get an external oil cooler set up. I'm gonna search around to see where rally folks put these.
NewSilverWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2018, 01:02 PM   #11600
myzislow
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 343067
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: CA
Vehicle:
2005 Saabaru v7ej207

Default

Version 7 swap running flawless for over 40k miles
Dom1.5 10cm
Flexfuel carberry
Car did 415whp @22psi e73 blend mustang dyno

I just completed a 6spd swap and want to take the car back in for a retune. This time I plan on running a higher ethanol content of at least e78 as there was a tiny bit of pump gas still in the mix.

I feel 22psi, even with a dom 1.5, is pretty conservative on ethanol for a v7...basically i want to turn it up because i like to party. Would turning it up to 25-26psi be treading the line of safety? I know the internals can take it, im just worried the headstuds might not.

What you all think?
myzislow is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ej207 owner wants opinions adbramsay Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 2 02-26-2011 08:29 PM
Ej207 V6 AndrewFD3 Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 10 06-03-2010 05:53 PM
JDM Sti EJ207 V9 crank 75mm or billet crank (K1, Manley) VENDORS ??? L'frise Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 7 06-03-2010 10:24 AM
08 ej207 JDM dual AVCS heads on a built v7 ej207 icev7 Built Motor Discussion 17 02-21-2010 04:21 PM
Ver 8 EJ207 Owners Check In spoolinsuby Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 21 10-17-2005 02:56 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.