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Old 08-13-2013, 04:02 PM   #1
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default 2002 Forester DD

Picked up a 2002 Forester S Premium 5MT. A little on the rough side but it has potential. Concentrating on getting it back to road worthy first. The modification addition is sure to kick in. This is going to serve as my daily driver and kid hauler through the mid-west seasons. Spring, Construction, Fall, and Salt. My motorsport hobbies and whatnot have significantly been replaced with responsibilities of a rapidly growing family. For now I am focused on maintenance items, repairing prior SAFUS, better braking, better handling, and getting the exhaust sound I like. The STI body parts are a stretch from the plan but I wanted something that makes it a little different than the usual.


Current Photo - just drive it everywhere
https://i.imgur.com/w5ygbJN.jpg


Starting Point
https://i.imgur.com/jMldI3V.jpg


>>My 2006 WRX Thread<<
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Last edited by JarHarms; 03-15-2018 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #2
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

The Holding Tank

4.111 5MT Fdiff - 37 ring teeth, 9 pinion teeth
4.444 5MT Fdiff -

3.700 R160 Rdiff - 37 ring teeth, 10 pinion teeth, '37:10' etching
4.111 R160 Rdiff - 37 ring teeth, 9 pinion teeth, '37:9' etching
4.444 R160 Rdiff -

Ride heights: (fender arch to axle stud CL)
190k stock suspension - front 16.75" rear 16.25"
new WRX Sedan suspension - front 14.5" rear 14.25

SF Foz lateral links are 407mm long and are 5mm shorter than GD sedan lateral links, bushing bore width is 32mm and will accept groupN bushings.
SF Foz rear trailing arms are exactly the same as the GD Impreza, bushing bore width is 39mm and will accept groupN bushings. The trailing arm mounting brackets do have differently placed pivot points.

WRX donut gasket 44022AA123 (graphite composite ID 61mm, OD 76.6mm, height 14.7mm) - too large for n/a Forester exhaust parts.
WRX cbe 2bolt gasket 44022AA131 (composite with steel crush ring ID 63.2mm, OD 80mm/122.2mm, thickness 1.7mm, bolt distance 96.6mm) works well between the Borla UEL and factory cat pipe.

The shift linkage stay rod is the same p/n for both Imp and Foz. The shift linkage rods are different p/n's between the Imp and Foz. Coparing the two they look the same length but the routing is a slightly different (maybe due to a clearance). The front stay bushing is the same between the Imp and Foz. The rear stay bushing is different between the Imp and Foz (Foz holds lever approx 1" lower than Imp) the Foz rubber seal boot is also deeper due to the height change.



ECM Identification
1G
22611 AG391
A18-000 D8D 1904

1G = reference code for ID
22611 = ECU part category
22611 AG391 = ECU part number
-> 22611 = ECU part category
-> AG391 = ECU revision (revision may be different by a few numbers, same ECU with a minor revision, possibly recal or bug correction)
A18-000 D8D = ECU MFG's part number (Unisia JEC Corp)
-> D8D = Part revision (maybe on a sticker on the socket, ties the case to the ECU board)
1904 = ECU serial number



Bearings:
806255010 (Phase2 5MT Cdiff) is an NSK 6911 55x80x13mm deep groove ball bearing w/o shields or other features, usually around $35 from on-line Subaru parts dealers and general bearing dealers

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-30-2016 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #3
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default 2002 Fozzie Forester

Mod List:

Powertrain
hodge-podge EJ253 shortblock and Z25 heads with EJ251 intake manifold assembly
110amp alternator
replica UEL header
Stromung 2.25" intermediate pipe - rotated rear flange to fit WRX axle-back
'06 WRX single tip axle back
'06 WRX drive shaft and the longer support mounting bolts

Suspension / Chassis
'04 WRX sedan application front and rear KYB Excel-G struts
leftover '07 STI front springs and new SPT pink wagon rear springs
Whiteline KSB590Q rear strut tower brace with Quick Releases
'06 WRX front knuckles and brake rotor shields
'06 WRX rear knuckles with '05 WRX backing plates and GpN bushings
'06 WRX rear trailing arms with GpN bushings, mounted with '02 Forester brackets
v6 STI shift lever (2" shorter + shorter throw)
modified for 5MT TiC 6MT shift lever pivot bushings
modified TiC updated shift joint
KartBoy front shifter stay bushing
new OEM forester rear shifter support bushing
TiC cherry blossom trans crossmember bushings

height measurements (axle CL to wheel arch)
FLeft 14.5" (original 16.5")
FRight 14.25" (original 16.75")
RLeft 14.0" (original 16.5")
RRight 14.5" (original 16.75")

Brakes/Wheels
'05 WRX front calipers, rotors, and brackets
Akebono ceramic D929 front pads
'08 LGT SpecB rear calipers, rotors, and brackets
Akebono ceramic D770 rear pads
17x8.5" +48 TR Motorsport MT1 wheels
235/50/17 Kumho PA31 tires
McGard bulge lugnuts and locks

Exterior
Magnet Paint's Monstaliner roll-on bedliner - Medium Quartz Gray and some Black
SF5 STI liftgate with tinted factory glass and Mitsu Outlander composite wiper arm/blade
STI rear spoiler with red LED 3rd lamp
SF5 STI headlights covered in clear LaminX film and city lamps wired to parking lights
original Foglight lamps covered in yellow LaminX film
SF5 STI grill with F badge
Hella supertones mounted behind grill
SF5 STI front fenders with amber side markers wired to turn signals
SF5 STi front bumper with BYS replica angled plate mount
modified eBay Vltd poly front lip from 2006-07 WRX
RoxBlox mudflaps - no decals, replaced hardware with stainless steel
35% window tint all around
Rola roof basket flooded with Boeshield, seam sealed, and topcoated with epoxy paint.

Interior
Donnelly auto dim / compass mirror
'04 Forester illuminated keyring
'06 WRX gray floor mats
Replaced woodgrain center and door trims to standard dark gray
Replaced ashtray with lower pocket
1999-01 RS Impreza center console (dark gray) upper panel
'06 WRX illuminated power outlet and blank plug
SF5 STI (red stitch) steering wheel
2004 STI Impreza (red stitch) parking brake lever
STI 5MT (red stitch) shift knob
Zealous Interiors black leather (red stitch) shift boot
Alpine SPS-600 front speakers using Kartboy 1/2" spacers and Metra #72-9300
Rockford Fosgate R14X2 rear speakers using oem forester surrounds and Metra #72-9300

Consumables
1qt Redline HD Shockproof + 1/2qt Syncromesh + generic 75w-90 trans oil
Redline HD Shockproof/75w-90 (50% mix) rear diff oil

Last edited by JarHarms; 11-18-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:08 PM   #4
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

I lurked around for awhile learning about Foresters and searching for one up for sale in my area. Had to sell the current DD first (2 door auto that I was not thrilled to drive). Sort of lucked out when the FOZ seller dropped their price down on the same weekend. I wanted a SG but those are just not selling in the price range I had to work with. Since it's an S Premium it was built with rear disk brakes, heated seats/mirrors, and that huge sunroof. Those all sounded good to me.

Starting Photos 8/6/2013



It was even "more than meets the eye..."



Initial pre-sale inspection was about what I suspected. There was the usual bumps and scrapes for a 190k "young" car. Noticed the overhead clock was dead. Interior is in good shape with one door card stain that I can probably get out. Carpet foot well sections and shifter are a bit worn. It has the fancy pants wood grain dash kit, not sure if I liked that or not. Front axle boots split and puked CV grease everywhere. Leaking battery. A few IACV and CATefficency faults (P0420, P1510, P1512, P1514, P1516, P0506). Minimal rust for a mid-west car. It drove well except a weird clutch pedal return hesitation which probably just needs bleeding. Sadly it's silver and I dislike silver but I bought it for a bargin deal so I can overlook the color. The drive home was decent with the only suprise being the ABS lamp turning on. I still need to pull those codes and see what is going on there. Maybe a dirty or bunk wheel speed sensor. I bought it up and drove it home the next day.

Later that week I started my teardown inspection. This was actually a 4 owner car and not a 3 owner car as told. Not a big deal since two of the owners did not have it very long. I even found the original window sticker in the glovebox and paperwork with names/addresses of all past owners. As usual, some leftover coins and pens were lurking inside. Pulled out the economy Walmart rubber floor mats and replaced with the original gray floor mats leftover from my WRX. Turned the mat clip 90 degrees and it hooked right in. FREE upgrades are great. I'm glad I kept those floor mats around now. Pulled the overhead clock out and split the housing. I did overstress one of the tabs being careless, oops. Found two of the three surface resistors had fractured solder joints. Also dropped one of those tiny buttons but eventually found it. Resoldered the resistors, reassembled, and it works now. FREE repairs are equally great. It had a fancy tech auto dimming rear mirror with a compass. The auto dim fluid had a leak so that feature was shot. I have read that Donnellys are known to do that. Found an inexpensive auto dim/compass mirror that used the cam lock attachment and would use the existing mirror harness. I was hoping it would be a Gentex, but ended up being a Donnelly with a very dim compass display. Either way the mirror still works. I'll consider opening it up and see if the display can be improved. *Eventually I did fix the dim display. The surface mount resistors joints did not look bad but I redid then anyways. Put it back together and it works great now.


Pulled the load bars off just to see what it would look like. I sort of like it best without those bars installed. Checked the spare tire, which was dead flat. Also found a vacant critter home in the spare tire well, the said critter was long gone though. Found a bonus cargo net that I did not know I had. While pulling the rear seats and trim out to inspect for other suprises, I was cussing at those rear cargo pod clips. Noticed that the drivers seat belt had sizable frays which will have to be addressed before driving around. I sort of stopped for the evening at that point. I plan to continue on making road worthy repairs, clean the heck out of it, and inspect for any inner rust that needs addressing before winter.


Just some info on SF cabin air filters I accumulated while looking for one for my 2002. I know that this info exists elsewhere but it is sort of scattered more than it should be.

Later SF Foresters (2001-02) were manufactured to accept a cabin air filter. One only needs to order cabin air filter (G3210FC200) and follow the install instructions. There is no trimming involved so this is a plug and play ordeal.
Purolator lists a cabin air filter (C36111) but I have not seen it in person yet to see if it is comparable to the OEM Subaru filter (G3210FC200). Although from internet photos and descriptions these are probably interchangeable. Personally I only see a pricing advantage for the Purolator when compared to buying the Subaru filter at the parts counter. "Slight" at best. The Mann-Hummel looks to be at the more reasonable price point for aftermarket cabin air filters.
-Subaru G3210FC200 ~$32 online OEM parts supplier
-Subaru G3210FC200 ~$40 list price from dealer parts counter

(some aftermarket filters I have come across)
-Purolator C36111 ~$36 online vendor like Amazon
-Mann-Hummel (MC 1064) ~$19 online like Amazon
-NPN ACC cabin filter W0133-1653233 ~$26 online like Amazon
-Pentius (PHB6111) ~$24 online like Amazon
-"OEM" Original Engine Management (CAF170PSET) ~28 online like Amazon

Not to leave out my slightly elder SF brethren…..
Early SF Foresters (1998-00) were not manufactured to accept a cabin air filter. However, after some careful trimming and the installation of a filter access cover (G3210FC010) one is able to install a cabin air filter (G3210FC000). Extra plastic material is trimmed away to reveal a slot for the filter element to fit through. The process is spelled out on the RS25 forum with Impreza photos that translate to a Forester install. It is worth looking at your Forester before ordering parts in case the housing has already been modified with the access cover. In this case all you need to order is the cabin air filter itself. Purolator does not list a cabin air filter (N/R) for the 1998-00 Forester, which sort of makes sense.
-Subaru G3210FC010 ~$20 online OEM parts supplier / ~$25 list price from dealer parts counter
-Subaru G3210FC000 ~$28 online OEM parts supplier / ~$35 list price from dealer parts counter

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-19-2016 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #5
admiral snackbar
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Member#: 272810
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Lynchburg, Va
Vehicle:
2010 STI
@digitalseagull

Default

Subaru has a lifetime free seatbelt replacement policy. I'd give the dealer a call.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:40 PM   #6
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by admiral snackbar View Post
Subaru has a lifetime free seatbelt replacement policy. I'd give the dealer a call.
Shoot, that figures and I already ordered a replacement. I may plan to stop by the dealer and see if it results in a free new belt, it's worth a shot. Thanks for the tip.

Talked to dealer, they required that they install the belt, ehh no thanks. I have not done the title and plate so I'm not cruising around just yet. Plus I do not have extra time to drop off and pick up. Found a used belt and retractor of the same color. Ordered it. Also found a used cargo cover and used window weather stripping. All of the rear trim panels are removed now. The body seam rust is not as bad as I was expecting so I should be able to stabilize it and prolong the futile. Scrubbed down the rear insides which look pretty decent now and making me feel a bit better about my purchase. The rear liftgate rust near the emblems is not major, however it bugs me. I will find a used liftgate in better shape.

I can see where an owner must have made RHS front contact with a stump or rock and bent up the radiator support. It was pulled back into the correct place but it's noticeable that a repair was made if you look a bit closer. I'm not worried since this is an inexpensive car and that damage will not alter anything. RHS fender has some body filler in it, the repaint and clear was entertaining to say the least (econo job). They also cleared over the RHS front door (WTF ? blending) which is now peeling near the handle and ran near the Forester door decal. I sort of wish they would not have cleared that door at all. The LHS rear door does have a sizable dent with some surface rust near the window trim. Bumper covers are ok but not pretty. Pulled off the oem mud flaps and found some little repairs needed since those oem flaps collect wet mud near the inner fenders. I'll have to ponder what I want to do with the body. I'm not keen on a full repair and repaint, it's just not worth it. However I can see replacing some body panels, fixing some rust, little body work, and considering plasti-dipping it so it's all a uniform color. Likely not silver though.

Drained the engine oil and pulled the filter. Installed the Fumoto valve that I had laying around from the WRX. Another freebie. Replaced with fresh 5W-30 and a filter from my WRX stash. Pulled the battery and cleaned the acid affected areas. Cleaned up the IACV and the manifold port. A new group 35 battery was put in its place. The battery cables are pretty corroded due to the leak so those might have to be replaced as a percaution. The engine and trans mounts are not split but they are plenty soft. Little bit of an engine oil leak that I will have to track down, probably early stages of headgaskets. Inner axle boots are certainly split. None of the trans seals (believe it or not) are leaking. The rear diff is certainly leaking and it was funny to see the extensive and improper use of sealant someone used to attempt a repair.

Exhaust system is decent, no holes as far as I could see. The flanges are plenty rusted down enough that a "evil-eye" look might cause them to burst into FeOx dust. The header heat shields are loose which explains some of the exhaust rattles I am hearing. Not sure what I want to do with this exhaust yet. I do have a leftover oem WRX cat back in the basement that I read can be modified to fit. Moving on. Purged out the clutch hydraulic fluid with some leftover Valvoline from a friend's car (free). Thankfully the weird return phenomenon is now gone, I bet it was the air in trapped in there. Also purged out the brake hydraulics except for the RHS rear caliper. I think the missing bleeder cap has the inside corroded and blocked. All the calipers work and none appear to be seized which is good. This "rust magnet" rear hitch has to go, I am worried that getting the bolts out during removal is going to have a few suprises for me. The spare tire seems to be holding air for the past few days and I cannot find any spray bottle leaks. So that might be good to go back in. A full size steel spare is heavy as all heck.

Installed the used seat belt, works like a charm. Also finished cleaning the carpet and underneath so it does not smell like "we make great pets" anymore. Center console and front seats are back in. Ahh, this happens everytime I sell off some of my used parts. I should not have sold the Dspecs that came out of my WRX. Those would have worked great and at the price (free) I like. Ehh, I do dumb things sometimes.

Drove it over to a friend's place to inspect a "mistery crate" that arrived. Those axle boots are not fixed yet, but what the heck. Drove fine but those rear struts are certainly shot.
https://i.imgur.com/JMoMSB5.jpg

"Fra-gi-lee" but there's no leg lamp in this crate.
https://i.imgur.com/Ue5dNgW.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4HvaP4g.jpg

Now we're starting to look like something. I removed the existing hood last night and drove over to my friend's this morning. Left sans hood and returned with a hood and a liftgate.
https://i.imgur.com/UBxtQyX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qsjE65d.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/yGdohDO.jpg

Stripped the existing liftgate down to the shell, glass, and a wiper motor/arm that is being stubborn. I'll have to lace the exisiting harness into the STi liftgate and move over the lock cylinder later. Hood fit well but I pulled off the scoop duct since that makes contact with the airbox. All said and done, the mis-matched paint does not look as weird as I thought it would. Perhaps if I got the rest of the white parts on it would almost look like it was done on purpose.

ABS light came back on the way there so I will have to pull that and see which fault I am going to hunt down. Got a front plate mount and some RokBlokz flaps on the way.

Yesterday's work. They turned out OK but the black certainly makes these appear smaller than they are.
https://i.imgur.com/G98SqPz.jpg

Front D929 brakes are in, used 2005 WRX as the donor application.
https://i.imgur.com/3zBYMbL.jpg

Rear D770 brakes in place, used 2008 LGT SpecB as the donor application. Larger and vented.
https://i.imgur.com/F59thCW.jpg

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-15-2018 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:59 PM   #7
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

I saw that the interior trim in standard dark gray were fairly inexpensive. Since I really am not partial to the faux woodgrain I thought I would try switching over the door cards. 83082FC030OE (RHS) and 83082FC020OE (LHS) showed up and even had screen printed unlock and lock on them. The faux wood grain did not even have those. Install was a 5 minute swap, easy. However the unlock/lock are printed on both parts reversed from how the lock switch really operates. Crap. So with no wiring diagram I got out the trusty Fluke and figured out which terminals were the lock and unlock circuits. A quick switch-a-roo and now it works like the printing notes. I'm happy.
It looks like there was a change but difficult to nail down when it occurred. Or maybe the trim vendor had a run of miss prints?
*I am pretty sure these part numbers 83082FC120OE (LHS) and 83082FC130OE (RHS) are the dark gray trim panels that have the "lock" on the top and "unlock" at the bottom.


Switch the blue and yellow wires (original is shown)



Switch the blue and yellow wires in the bottom left of the connector (original shown)


The Foz shift knob height is too tall for my liking so I was looking for something else at a reasonable cost. I like my Katboy lever in my WRX but I don't really need a super short throw on the Foz. Additionally the KB levers come in Impreza (way too short for a Forester) and Forester (only 1/2" shorter) flavors. My main worry was concerning the future removal of the sub-spacers and how that would change the shifter height. The oem 1999-01 Impreza RS uses a shift lever that is 2" shorter and matches all the other specs of the Foz lever. Plus it is much cheaper than aftermarket short shifters. The only PITA install moment was getting under the car and trying to remove/install the rusty snap ring. All in all it was worthwhile since the height is more comfortable to me and the throw is "slightly less" due to the reduction in lever arm. It does need new pivot bushings they are pretty sloppy.


Forester shift lever (35011FC030)
narrow pivot barrel / small ball
~9.0" pivot CL to threaded end
~2.263" pivot CL to ball end
1.160" (29.5mm) pivot barrel width
0.668" (17mm) pivot barrel ID
[Forester rear stay bushing] 7.50" rear of shifter trim to top of OEM knob
[Impreza rear stay bushing] TBD
4.50" 3rd gear to 4th gear throw

Impreza RS shift lever (35011AC080)
narrow pivot barrel / small ball
~7.188" pivot CL to threaded end
~2.263" pivot CL to ball end
1.160" (29.5mm) pivot barrel width
0.668" (17mm) pivot barrel ID
[Forester rear stay bushing] 5.5" rear of shifter trim to top of OEM knob
[Impreza rear stay bushing] TBD
4.0" 3rd gear to 4th gear throw
Notes: The ball end, tension pin, pivot sleeve, and pivot bushings are not included with 35011AC080. It will be a bare shift lever but your parts from the exiting shift lever will swap over easily. The 0.5" reduction in 3rd to 4th throw is merely due to the height reduction. The end that determines shift ratio is the same between both shift levers. It will feel slightly firmer to get into gears but that is also due to losing some leverage.

Bored during lunch break. Replaced parking brake lever with a used 2004 STI lever I picked up. Just need to final adjust and put console back in tonight. Easy and direct swap.


Center console shell is set back into place. Spent some time applying some leftover P&S Ensolite on the inner surfaces to possibly cut down some NVH. Also interchanged some other center console parts from an Impreza RS. I think it looks way better dark gray than light gray. I have some other "ideas" planned for the center console area if I can modify the parts to fit.


The Foz boot would work with the RS shift lever although it is a bit too long. Since the boot is pretty ratty I plan to replace it. I'm just not sure what color and brand. STI 5mt shift knob (STS025500180) was also in there. It was surprisingly cheaper to source this from Japan (since I was already ordering stuff). Digging through my leftover parts I found my original WRX headunit so I installed that into the Forester to see how it looks since it is silver. It works great and looks better than I thought.


Tried TiC's 5MT pivot bushings....they are #$%@. Their support was #$%@ also.
I don't really like re-designing something that should work fine as-is. Ended up modifying their 6MT shift lever pivot bushings and so far are working as I hoped. Yea I'm venting a bit.
I also installed the new shift boot which fits well and looks pretty good. It's a Zealous Interiors version that I'm happy with but would like it better if the thread was a thicker gauge to match the STi knob better. I might have been better going with a JPM boot after all. Only a few more things on my interior to-do list and then I'm done.



Last edited by JarHarms; 03-20-2015 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:01 AM   #8
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
SGM

Default

Did a few things to the Forester on my day off. Had to since a box full of Japanese air, packing peanuts, and goodies arrived. Regardless of the part numbers I am listing some of these can not be ordered in North America.
Had to decide between the SUBARU (93080FC040) or the FORESTER (93080FC020) liftgate "marker" emblems. I was expecting the FORESTER version to be longer than the SUBARU one, they are actually about the same. The FORESTER install pins were very close to matching the holes in the liftgate. I bet they are the same but this one was placed in the install guide a bit off. I cleaned off the application area with some alcohol and placed it into position.
I usually like emblems removed but this liftgate looked a bit weird completely bare. It needs something and I think the FORESTER looks better since the letters are smaller and there are more of them, compared to the SUBARU.


FORESTER it is..... I just have to figure out what to do with the holes left behind from the small forester emblem.


Replaced my F badge with a new one (91053FC020), backing plate (91053FC030), and four clips (9107AA161). I was trying to save the original F badge but those clips are a royal pain in my rear. Note that this version only fits the JDM STi grill, there is another version that is made to fit the SF5 and USDM type grills.
Shiny, fresh, and non-chipped.


Found some time for little projects this weekend.
Front and rear speakers are done now. I got new front speakers to put into the WRX so I recycled the 6.5" Alpine SPS-600's for the Forester. There where also some SPS-500 speakers leftover from another project.
I was trying to reuse the front oem speaker mounts but was not coming to a happy medium. Some IA Performance speaker adapters and wiring adapters were ordered to fit the front and rear speakers. I looked all over and could not find photos that showed the rear of the IA spacers. Sure enough when they arrived I found them to be non-solid, dang. It really would not matter for this install so I trudged onwards. Then I found out that they do not fit in the front doors as well as I think they should. I pulled the Kartboy spacers from my WRX and those fit perfectly so I used them instead. The rear IA spacers also did not fit the rear doors that well. Also the tweeter on the SPS-500's are certain to contact the speaker grills. Hmm now what. The rear oem speaker mounts will fit 4" speakers so I started looking for ones that had tweeters that do not protrude that much. I would have liked to stick to Alpine but the only ones I could find were Rockford Fosgate R142's. Those fit perfect into the oem mounts and had plenty of room to the speaker grills. This setup sounds a little better than the original speakers but the real reason I'm installing these is for headroom. A different oem headunit and an Alpine KTP-445U power pack.

I had an illuminated keyring from a newer Forester. So why not see if that fits in this Forester. The keyring does fit on the ignition cylinder and also fits inside the column trim cutout. The illuminated keyring is a friction fit instead of being held on with clips like the non-illuminated one.
So now it just needed to be wired up to work as it does in the newer Forester. This uses a reversed ground circuit so it is a little irregular. I tapped fuse box connector B pin8 for a constant 12v source to go to one lead. *You could find an alternative power source I suppose.* The other lead is spliced into the keyless entry control module pin4 so the ring will function the same as the dome light. The keyless entry control module us up under the dash and sort of above the fuse box. Having a FSM with wiring diagrams will help out. I also suggest testing the circuits with a DMM before making it more permanent. Works great. I am pretty sure this is part number 84661FC010 which will come with the keyring, bulb harness, and a green bulb. It's a cool little change.




The C-123 Forester headunit is installed and seems to be working well. I wired up the AUX circuit so I can plug in a Kinivo bluetooth kit. I just need to hardwire in the bluetooth kit where the mic sounds best. While this is not very high tech, it does get the job done, is inexpensive, and looks low key. I have an Alpine power pack that I could wire in later to boost the speakers a little. Also pulled apart the rear mirror to check on that dim compass display. The surface mount resistors did not have any obvious solder issues though. I re-wet the joints and it works great now. The gearbox is not happy but still hoping it will hold out a few more months for WRX weather. Then it's coming out for inspection and probably rebuild.

SF5 STI steering wheel is installed. I wanted one and my wheel was pretty worn out. I transferred the cruise stalk from my wheel to this one. It mounts a bit differently between the wheels. I was going to transfer the rear wheel trim but it also mounts differently. So I dremeled out a new hole in the STI trim to clear the stalk. Reused my clockspring. Works fine, same diameter as the original wheel so it's transparent in terms of function. Just looks newer and "fancy".

Honestly the metal ring around the MOMO logo is a bit much. I sort of want to switch it out for a 2004-05 WRX version with the smaller red MOMO logo.


Here's how it looks at this point.


The kid rides in a better seat than dad does......

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-26-2015 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:03 AM   #9
JarHarms
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10/17/2013
Finally got around to cutting out a hood scoop panel from some scrap ABS sheet. Drilled out the mounting holes and bolted it to the bottom of the hood. Free is better than the $130+ that Subaru wants for the 2.5RS scoop panel. This should help keep some debris out of the engine compartment and partially reroute rain that drops right on the engine. Really the only motivation was that the underhood just looked to be missing something. Here is the panel compared to the JDM scoop duct. I installed it at night so no installed photos yet.


10/19/2013
Grrr, not having the best weekend. Got the full exhaust down and was about to start fitting the UEL, HFC pipe, and WRX cbe. The Tsudo UEL contacts the oil filter enough that I want to see a genuine Borla header to compare. Flanges at the cyl head fit up better than I expected though.
Also noticed a noise developing from the driveline and some dark Extra-S (put in not long ago). So I'm starting to pull off the extension housing to inspect the center diff and transfer bearings. I hope that is all it is. I do not think I have it in me to do another trans rebuild this year. Dang rusty shifter joint was holding on tight to the shift rod. Hey at least I found the cause (shifter joint) of my sloppy shift lever.



**Result's in: Crappy Subaru center diff retainer cir-clip strikes again. I really wish they would have used a proper c-clip instead of that cir-clip. Some teeth are missing from transfer gears too. So at very least I need a phase 2 center diff, both transfer gears, the four bearings, and maybe a new housing. Now....do I pull the trans and go further into it or just fix this and see what happens. I really need this running before winter gets here.

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Old 02-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #10
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10/20/2013
New center diff, driven/drive transfer gears, roller bearings, ball bearing, and oil seal on the way. Also a GpN trans mount and a new Forester rear shifter stay bushing. I'm just not sure the KB rear stay bushing (impreza) will fit right on a Forester with the sub-spacers in use.

10/26/2013
Remember boys and girls ALWAYS count the original transfer gear teeth and write it down somewhere. Compare to the ones you are installing, regardless if you believe them to be the same ones you removed. If you're a shop, you never know what is laying on the bench and gets installed. Do your homework.
Parts all came in on Friday. Started getting to work right away. Got the bearings pressed onto the transfer gears. Started measuring clearances but I did not have all the tools handy so it's going together as-is. At least the center diff is an updated version (38913AA102) with a c-clip rather than the cir-clip.


Sealed the case up today and will wait for the sealant to cure before dumping the 1st oil fill in to check for leaks and noise. GpN trans mount is in. Trans crossmember bushings are in. The new shifter rear stay and KB front stay bushings are in. I go the TiC updated linkage installed but.....TiC is a great shop but I hate to say it. This is my 2nd try with TiC shift joint bushings that cannot meet my functional requirements out of the box. Those crush tubes need to be slightly proud of the bushing surfaces to function properly. I had the usual result of binding the movement when the bolts are "not-even-close" tightened to spec. I will never run loose shift linkage fasteners, highly unsafe. The last set of TiC bushings I tried on my 6MT were eventually thrown in the trash. This set took some extra work buy removing some material from the faces of each bushing. Now it works the way it should have in the first place. I also noticed the shift rod clevis on my Forester needed to be spread out a bit to fit the joint properly. Not a big deal but worth the mention.
Bolted pretty much everything else back into place to end tonight out. If this trans pulls through for me....it's may get a refresh, clutch, and LSD next spring.

10/28/2013
Poured some inexpensive 75W-90 in for the first test drive and debris flush. I figure I'll drive it to the store for its next change of oil. I'm looking for a quieter driveline and a reduction in metal debris in the oil drains. Just waiting for a DS dust shield to arrive so I can finish up the DS install.
One of my exh manifold studs gave me a surprise repair opportunity which had to be dealt with. Spread the Borla UEL flanges slightly to get them to drop right in place. Also played around with the leftover WRX cbe a bit. Need some extended exh hangers to get it fitting well. Probably going to run the UEL with the original cat pipe and back for now. Time and funds are running out to go any further. I look forward to getting this back out on the roads. Fingers crossed.

11/3/2013
Well it drives again but still a decent amount of trans noise......the group N mount certainly amplifies the noise. I quickly swapped the original mount back in today and it's back to the noise level prior to the center diff repair. Pretty sure I've got one or two noisy input shaft bearings in the forward case. Hmm. I doubt I'm going to pull off a rebuild in the time I have available so I'm taking my chance on driving it as-is through winter and pulling the box out in the spring. The UEL exhaust note sounds decent even though it is running through the original exhaust system. Very hard to hear the rumble but that is expected. I'll work on the rest of the exhaust next year.

11/6/2013
Definitely I have the main shaft bearing noises. Oh great. Drained the fluid after a few work round trips and there is still noticeable particles. I will continue to monitor it and try to get through winter. Already planning on a bearing/seal refresh. No grinds and the syncro/baulks are all working great so I may not have to touch the gear sets. Just need to round up my trans tools for spring. Some of those were loaned out awhile back. Lost cruise control for awhile because I did not notice I knocked the vac line off the actuator during the trans R&R. P0420 persists.

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Old 02-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #11
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12/12/2013
I have one Recaro already and it is great. Unexpectedly we're going from one kid right into three. I bet three Recaros are not going to fit across the back seat in my Forester or my wife's RAV4. Hoping that I can find two infant seats that will fit on either side of the existing Recaro. There is the whole double the cost thing with twins so splurging on seats may not happen. More or less hoping I do not have to sell my WRX. Modification funds in general are sure to suffer for awhile.

1/24/2014
Carving out some time and gathering parts to get the timing belt change out of the way. At least the SOHC is an easy-"ish" job. Tbelt, idlers, tensioner, crank seal, water pump, thermostat, acc belt idler, plugs, wires, pcv, coolant, conditioner, etc. Plus a leaking spark plug tube gasket, that should be fun. Also working on a repair plan for the 5MT. Pretty certain that this main shaft rear bearing is about done for. 4th gear pop-out is usually from excessive endplay from that bearing going out. I 4th gear is popping out all the time now. Dang, and it is cold as all heck here right now. I need it fixed to avoid a break down possibility and not really enough time to pull and rebuild. So I ordered a trans swap to speed the repair up.

1/31/2014
Part way through the Tbelt change tonight. Just need to get the oil pump taken care of, install the new Tbelt, reassemble, and fill the coolant. Need some new hose clamps at the store tomorrow. I found some of my strange noises while the engine is running. Definitely the A/C idler making noise. One of the Tbelt idlers was questionable. The last one is the A/C clutch so I have been reading up on how to disassemble and replace the bearing in there. That might be another weekend project to fix that, set the valve clearances, and replace the leaky Vcover gasket.

2/1/2014
Tbelt job done. I omitted the oil pump due to the time available and the cure time needed for the ultra gray. I'll risk it. Was not able to get the A/C clutch removed to inspect but I ordered a bearing that is "supposed" to work in there. I guess I will find out next weekend.
Now I just have to do some garage cleanup and start into the transmission prep. So a trans and rear diff arrived. Checked the FD of the rear diff to make sure it is matching the trans. Also a bit bummed (but not surprised) that the rear diff that came from the same car was not sent. An "impostor" but functional rear diff was shipped.



2/7/2014
Gathering up parts to ready for the STI 5MT trans swap....hopefully ready to switch over in the next few weeks. That rear input shaft bearing is getting worse by the minute. So far the WRX flywheel re-ground, Exedy oem WRX clutch kit arrived, and STI 5MT is ready to be cracked open. Just waiting on a front LSD and pondering proactive install of a TSK2 or not.
Since this Forester is n/a it uses a push-type clutch release. The STI trans is a pull-type design. As most know the push-type set up uses a different clutch housing (aka: trans bell housing), TOB fork, Clutch Operating Cylinder (COC), etc compared to the pull-type. So I know ahead of time that I must source additional parts. Going a bit further. The Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC), COC, and the related hydraulic lines have other details that may influence installation. Plus there are also CMC and COC bore size differences that influence fluid volume -> pedal stroke and feel.

There are more than a few CMC and COC versions available but here are the two applications I am focusing on for the purpose of this swap. Going from Forester parts to WRX parts.
2002 Forester CMC (37230AE011) -> 5/8" bore and side port
2002 WRX CMC (37230FE060) -> 11/16" bore, delay valve, and front port
2002 Forester COC (30620AA042) -> 3/4" bore, top port, and push-type
2004 WRX COC (30620AA120) -> 13/16" bore, rear port, no delay valve, and pull-type

Firstly, I must switch to a pull-type COC. The WRX COC will have a larger bore and will require more fluid volume for stroke distance. I may or may not choose to eliminate the CMC delay valve, moot point. Then I had to decide on CMC bore to replicate the correct pedal pressure and COC stroke. The 2006 FSM lists a difference in clutch release lever stroke specs. So I suspect this STI 5MT will need additional COC stroke (fluid volume) than the Forester CMC provides.
2.5i (push type) is 12.1 – 13.5mm (0.48 – 0.53in)
WRX (push type) is 11.1 – 12.5mm (0.437 – 0.492in)
STI (pull type) is 13.3 – 14.7mm (0.524 – 0.579in)

So I'm going for both WRX cylinders but the front port -vs- side port on the CMC needs to be addressed. The Forester's hardline between the CMC and the flex line will not place the fitting in the correct location to meet up with the port on the WRX CMC.
I tried searching most of the related forums for anyone doing a similar conversion. I resorted to reading through long journal threads, ahh. All I was able to find was 2slo4u on RS25.com noting that he had to bend the side port line to fit the front port CMC. Hmm that seems like more bending than I would like on that particular hardline.
I am going to try the 37250FE052 hardline from the 2002 WRX to see if it will fit as-is. It's less than $10 so worth a shot. I am not certain if the spacing between the CMC and flexline bracket is the same GC -vs- GD. Although it looks pretty darn close comparing my WRX to the Forester side by side. If it does not work I can try re-bending either of the hardlines to work. The backup plan is to bend up a short auto parts store repair brake line or run a SS braided line directly from the CMC to the COC.
*The 37250FE052 hardline worked great and did not require modification. Factory fit......

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-09-2015 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:56 AM   #12
JarHarms
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2/7/2014
New front LSD inspected and prep underway. Just need a different case bolt before reassembly.


AC clutch is being a real PITA. The DYI methods get mixed results but I'll get that darn clutch off somehow. Probably not getting to the valve clearance and Vcover gasket job started this weekend though. The A/C pulley bearing from factory was an NTN Japan 2J-DF07A02LA with gray colored dust shields. I found a Santech MT2021 35mm ID x 55mm OD x 20mm Thick bearing on EBAY for <$15. When it arrived it was labeled as Global Air CB-2502 with green colored dust shields. It installed easily but that NTN bearing was not the cause of the noise. There is a tight clearance between the mag coil OD and the pulley. If there is a slight rust spot built up in there it causes a slight metallic scraping noise when the pulley is in freewheel. Either way it's fixed now. I removed one of the thinner clutch shims to offset the 190K of wear. Noise gone now.

Ripped the in-going trans apart to inspect. Glad I did since the 35mm input shaft nut was loose. To this day I still can't understand why Subaru transmission plant workers can't stake a nut worth a crap. Everything else looks good though. Mint syncros, baulks, and gears. I scrubbed the outside of the cases so it looks a little nicer than before.
I'm finishing up the LSD prep work and switching the ring gear over. I hope to get the main case back together, backlash/preload/pattern set, and transfer housing installed this week. The revised c-clip center diff in the Forester trans now will be going into this trans. I'm pretty sure that this came with an STI short shifter installed so that might make it's way over to the final install. Fresh ground flywheel, new Exedy oem clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. Should be pretty decent when all said and done. Not so pretty right now but I'm sort of locked out of my usual work space this winter.

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Old 02-09-2015, 09:57 AM   #13
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2/22/2014
New LSD is wearing it's ring gear and all ready to go. Re-torqued the mainshaft nut and staked the heck out of it. Lost my special 35mm socket so I had to make a new one first. Need to clean up the cases and start prepping for the backlash, preload, and pattern work ahead. Once that's done (probably this week) I can get the main cases sealed up and the transfer housing installed. The new operation (slave) cylinder and hydraulic line should be here Monday. Maybe I might get to swap this over next weekend. Maybe...
Rear diff is all checked out plus new axle and cover seals. I decided to go ahead and clean the housing up and paint it. Even though it's a DD I still like things to look tidy after some use. I plan to re-use the existing front and rear axles at first. I do have some STI axles that will work but I want to clean them up, re-grease, and boot them before installing.
I was having weird random starting then dying issues when the weather was hella cold. It was opposite of the usual IACV issues. By chance I was able to catch the PS pump pulley hang up on one of those starts. I re-set the PS belt during the Tbelt work. Also sudo-replaced the old power steering fluid with new synthetic Redline D4. Issue has not returned. The cold weather has subsided a bit here so not sure if the Redline ATF worked or it is the weather change yet.

3/2/2014
Cold staring issue came up a few more times. Pretty sure it is the IACV going flaky and not raising idle when needed. A new one is about $300, shoot. I'd invest that if I knew what I'm going to do engine-wise in the next few months. The STI 5MT is all set. Just waiting on a block of time to pull the Forester trans, switch center diffs around, and seal up the extension case. Pretty happy to get rid of that 4th dropout and gain some front traction. Not sure if I'm going to use the front STI axles or not. Have been reading up on the contact issues with those axles and KONI insert/Drex extenders which I was interested in for the future. Hmm.

3/30/2014
Trans is in, just finishing up last minute checks. Planning to test drive tomorrow and hopefully will be driving it again this week. The WRX will be happy to be out of the crappy weather. It is not as easy to get work done on the vehicles anymore, twins incoming. Checked speedo values against GPS values with the new trans installed. I was not sure if the Impreza based trans would alter the relationship between Forester sized tires and the Forester cluster. Unfortunately did not think to check this prior to the trans swap so I would have something to judge against.

I expect the highway speedo ranges will read slightly lower than stock. And so it is, but not enough to bother me. Actually that is pretty spot on. The Impreza -vs- Forester speed relationship must reside inside the cluster since the VSS signal is the same in both transmissions.
V6 STI 5MT – 215/60/16
5th gear 50 GPS – cluster reads same
5th gear 55 GPS – cluster reads 1 mph low
5th gear 70 GPS – cluster reads 2 mph low
5th gear 80 GPS – cluster reads 2 mph low

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Old 02-09-2015, 10:01 AM   #14
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7/14/2014
Changed the radio headunit out, but not really happy with it. Still unsure if I want to buy another one or just live with this Pioneer. Also installed an illuminated power socket into the radio trim panel. It goes with the illuminated key ring and the install was pretty easy. It sort of plugged right in after switching a terminal from one connector to another. Finally installed the rear wiper arm/blade that I was looking for that works with my JDM liftgate. Looks better than the oem one. This type of wiper blade WILL NOT work with a USDM wiper motor!



Rear molded plastic wiper arm and 400mm blade from second gen 2000-2006 Toyota Previa (XR30, XR40) fits the SF liftgate so long as it has the JDM wiper motor (opposite side as USDM). Toyota part numbers are 85241-28090 arm and 85242-28060 blade. Those are not sold in NA market due to the Sienna presence. So even if I was to order an arm and blade from the UK, I expect getting replacement blades to be a annual PITA. Plus the Ebay offerings look to be on the pretty cheap-ish aftermarket part side or things. Findings from Clinically_Ill and some other gentlemen on another forum.
I spotted a Mitsubishi Outlander on the highway which has a similar looking rear wiper as the Previa. The 2003-2006 Mitsubishi Outlander has the same orientation wiper motor as the JDM Subaru one. The wiper blade is 350mm which is pretty close to the 400mm blade and the shape is very similar. Most significantly this IS sold in North America. The only unknown is if the connection to the motor stem will or or not.
Mitsubishi part numbers are MR971507 arm and MR971508 blade.
Possibly the Suzuki Swift & SX4 2005+ uses the same wiper arm.
A Dodge Journey SXT also has a rear wiper that appears similar to the ones described above.

It's been a long wait but I have most of the strut/spring parts gathered up. There is a chance I have some undivided time coming up that I can actually work on installing these. If I can get an alignment scheduled, I might just get this completed. WRX Sedan version KYB Excel-G struts, front STI springs, rear STI wagon springs, and all new rubbers/boots/etc.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-12-2015 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:06 AM   #15
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Default 2002 Fozzie Forester

I am dumping some details and observations from my SF lowering experience here.

I researched the heck on forums about lowering foresters before buying anything. First thing that I noticed is the numerous parts and combinations that can be used for the same task. Sadly the information is confusing since it's mostly fractioned, incomplete, and lacking detail. With all of these possibilities, very few posts specifically note the applications that they took parts from. Such as omitting Sedan or Wagon changes the game quite a lot. Info is possibly a bit outdated since the helpful suspension threads are overtaken by SG/SH related detail. Yes I know this is an "old" SF we are talking about but there are plenty of people picking these up for daily drivers, evident from the new SF member journal threads that pop up. Either way I am working with an SF and needed to filter for relative info.

The Forester crossmember spacers/height (engine, trans, rear diff) difference further adds complexity. To remove or not remove the spacers is a very specific change that most probably do not need to perform. So in this post I am not changing any crossmember heights and specifically omitting any reference to it.

Furthermore I believe the SF chassis does not see the same lower effect as the SG chassis. Things like overall weight and track width play a part here. I found all of these things made it difficult to develop a plan and avoid using the wrong parts. Even for an OCD parts interchange junkie like myself.



My take away

-I suspect the SF will see less ride height reduction than the SG using the same coils, not certain why just yet. I originally though the SF might weigh less but come to find out it's not that much different. Possibly the cut of the wheel arches trick the eyes? Either way when you are scanning the forum threads looking at ride heights, overabundant SG and under abundant SF photos might mislead you.

-I suspect the SF will have different camber change than the SG, probably due to the SF's narrower front and rear track width. The SG has roughly 1" more track width on both ends so lowering it will yield different camber range than an SF. I know for a fact the SF rear lateral links are shorter than SG. The SF front lower control arms are more than likely shorter than the SG as well.

-If you are sticking to typical width/offset wheels and do not want to clearance the rear fenders then opt for WRX Wagon struts over Sedan versions.

-If you are trying to cram in as much tire as possible and do not mind some fender work then you should use WRX Sedan struts. The sedan struts will move the inner wheel edge away from the strut tube and closer to the fender lip. The reduced camber range can be helped with some aftermarket camber bolts or installing wider LCAs and Lateral Links. WRX Wagon struts will also work in this case but will move the inner wheel edge closer to the strut tube. This is more of an issue in the rear, but could be fine tuned using some aftermarket camber bolts.



Pre-lowering arch height measurements (axle CL to wheel arch)

*probably the original assembly parts, all the struts are certainly shot

FLeft 16.5"

FRight 16.75"

RLeft 16.5"

RRight 16.75"



Parts I used in the front (mostly used 2004 WRX Sedan as the interchange application)



1 new KYB Excel-G WRX Sedan front LHS strut 334471

1 new KYB Excel-G WRX Sedan front RHS strut 334470

2 new Subaru WRX front bumpstops 20321AA201 - WRX strut rod is 22mm / SF is 20mm, similar heights so possibly you could force the SF bumpstop on there. I also cut off the lower rib.

2 new Subaru WRX front dust boots - confirmed you can reuse the SF front boots they looks identical

2 new Subaru front coil cushion - confirmed you can reuse the coil cushions they looked identical but normally I see them cracked or ripped

2 used Subaru GDB STI Sedan front coils (leftover parts) - same rate as STI WRX "pink" front coils B2010FE500 just black

2 used Subaru upper coil perch (leftover parts) - confirmed you can reuse the SF upper coil perch they looked identical

2 used Subaru GDB conical washers (leftover parts) - confirmed you can reuse the SF conical washer, GDB parts are the same they looked identical

2 used Subaru GDB front tophats (leftover parts) - confirmed you can reuse the SF tophats they looked identical

2 used Subaru dust plugs (reused SF parts) - confirmed you can reuse the SF plugs they looked identical

black UV-resistant cable ties - temporary attaching of brake lines, need WRX brake line to use the bolt mounting



Front strut clevises

Both have the same clevis width

Both use a bolted ABS sensor mount

Forester has the older brake clip design and captive brake line bracket

WRX sedan has the newer bolted in brake line mount and a non-captive bracket

Forester clevis holes CL to strut body CL is 55mm

WRX sedan clevis holes CL to strut body CL is 60mm









Front Install

Got to the Forester's front strut assembly using the normal techniques. Did not have to unbolt the front ARB endlinks. Unbolted the ABS sensor from the bracket and saved the bolt. Drove the clip off of the brake line. Carefully used a cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the brake line bracket, a pair of pliers to bend the rest out of the way, and freed the brake line. This way I am not opening the brakes and avoid extra time to bleed the system. Removed the clevis bolts and tophat nuts then maneuvered the strut assembly out of the car.

Installed the WRX front strut assembly into place, held in with loosely installed tophat nuts. Lifted up LCA to match up clevis bolt bores and installed those loosely. Attached ABS sensor to new strut using the existing bolt. The Forester brake lines were temporarily cable tied into place since they have nothing to bolt to. I plan to switch these old brake lines out for WRX lines in the near future. Set max camber bolt to max negative and then tightened the clevis bolts up. Tightened the tophat nuts up. Got the front end back on the ground and tightened the strut rod nut up. Then I installed the dust caps that were on the Forester tophats, a little stiff but usable.

I had the WRX front strut assemblies pre-assembled so the front swap literally took 40 minutes or so.



Parts I used in the rear (mostly used 2004 WRX Sedan as the interchange application)



1 new KYB Excel-G WRX Sedan rear LHS strut 334359

1 new KYB Excel-G WRX Sedan rear RHS strut 334358

2 new Subaru rear coil cushion ....... - confirmed you can reuse the coil cushions but normally I see then cracked or ripped

2 new STI WRX Wagon "pink" rear coils B2010FE520 - same rate as STI but slightly higher ride height and painted pink

2 new Subaru GDB rear bump stops - maybe the SF ones could be used but I would opt for these newer ribbed versions. I also cut off the lower rib.

2 used Subaru GDB rear dust boots (leftover parts)

2 used Subaru GDB rear tophats (leftover parts)

2 new Subaru GDB rear brake mounting clip ........

black UV-resistant cable ties - temporary attaching of brake lines, need WRX brake line to use the clip mounting



Rear strut clevises

Both have the same clevis width

Forester has the older brake clip design and captive brake line bracket

WRX sedan has the newer brake clip design and a non-captive bracket

Forester clevis holes CL to strut body CL is 55mm

WRX sedan clevis holes CL to strut body CL is 60mm









Rear Install

Got to the Forester's rear strut assembly using the normal techniques. Drove the clip off of the brake line. Carefully used a cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the brake line bracket, a pair of pliers to bend the rest out of the way, and freed the brake line. This way I am not opening the brakes and avoid extra time to bleed the system. The clevis bolts were rusted tight so I ended up removing the axles so I could torch then without melting the CV boots. Removed the clevis bolts and tophat nuts, then maneuvered the strut assembly out of the car.

Installed the WRX rear strut assembly into place, held in with loosely installed tophat nuts. Lifted up knuckle to match up clevis bolt bores and installed those loosely. The Forester brake lines were temporarily cable tied into place since they do not work with the new brake clips. I plan to switch these old brake lines out for WRX lines in the near future. Tightened the clevis bolts and tophat nuts up. Got the rear end back on the ground and tightened the strut rod nut up.

I had the WRX rear strut assemblies pre-assembled so the rear swap took 60 minutes or so aside from the extra axle removal work. If I did not have to do those extra steps this would have been 40 minutes or less.



Parts I used for the rear ARB (mostly used 2007 WRX Sedan as the interchange application)

1 new RHS Subaru GDB rear ARB mount - p/n 20540FE200

1 new LHS Subaru GDB rear ARB mount - p/n 20540FE210

2 new Subaru GDB rear ARB bushing clamps - p/n 20466FE000

4 used mount bolts (reused SF parts) - p/n should be 012308250 -> 901250075

2 used clamp bolts (reused SF parts) - p/n should be 012308250 -> 901250075

2 used clamp nuts (leftover parts) - p/n should be 902350013 also 023808000

1 used Subaru WRX Sedan rear ARB (leftover parts)

2 used Subaru WRX Sedan rear ARB bushings (leftover parts)

2 used Subaru WRX Sedan rear endlinks (leftover parts) - confirmed you can reuse the SF endlinks, GDB parts are the same

1 8mmx1.25 helicoil - whoops

Alignment



Rear ARB Install

Not quite the easy part of this job. Initially I broke a mount bolt off in the RHS frame rail, then drilled it out, and then broke the tap off in there. Ah shoot. Surprisingly the SF corners better than I thought it would with no rear ARB. Later on I came back with a carbide bit and removed the broken tap. I chose to over drill and install a helicoil to repair that bolt hole. Worked great and afterwards all of the parts bolted in like factory. With the rear ARB back into place it does help reduce some body roll.

Anti-seize Remember that using anti-seize will pay off on future work.



Post-lowering arch height measurements (axle CL to wheel arch)

*About 1 week of daily driving for coil settling. Basically around a 2.0" drop in height as expected.

FLeft 14.5" (from 16.5")

FRight 14.25" (from 16.75")

RLeft 14.0" (from 16.5")

RRight 14.5" (from 16.75")



Initial Observations

Front - Firstly the ride height is were I was hoping it would turn out. The SF front track is obviously narrower than a GD WRX Sedan. Recall that the front knuckles I installed last August were leftovers from my GDB WRX Sedan. The clevis bolt bores were slightly different than the SF knuckles but the alignment suggested that those parts played well with each other. I might have lost some negative camber range but the amount was probably negligible. The clevis holes are also different between the two strut assemblies. So now that the WRX Sedan front struts are installed it appears (by an un-calibrated eye) that I have lost some additional negative camber range. The alignment shop did not give me the printout so I will need to measure it later.

If it cannot get enough negative camber for my liking, I can probably correct it a few ways 1) replace the sedan struts with wagon struts 2) install longer GDB front LCAs 3) install crash bolts in the lower clevis holes. I typically dislike crash bolts though.



Rear - With the rear strut assemblies removed I could see where Subaru assembled the rear sheet metal and then asked their 2 year olds to seam seal them. Here is where the jankey seam sealer hardens and allows water to leak into the inner fenders. This is one reason why Foresters rust in that rear fender area. I will have some sealing repairs to do before winter. The camber is also interesting back there. I think if the rear springs settle I may need to consider 1/4 or 3/8 inch tophat spacers to lift the rear up a little.

If it cannot get enough negative camber for my liking, I can probably correct it a few ways 1) replace the sedan struts with wagon struts 2) install longer GDB lateral links 3) install crash bolts in the upper clevis holes.

Other info: (lost one of my scribbled note papers so missing some info I wanted to document)

SF front strut rods are 20mm dia -vs- GDB WRX strut rods are 22mm dia.

SF front bump stops are a smaller ID (19.6mm) than the GDB bump stops. All other features are the same (60mm height, max 50.5mm dia, 3 segments).

GDB coils will seat into SF lower perches and the front SF upper perches just fine.

SF and GDB front dust boots, conical washers, upper perches, and rubber isolators look identical to each other.

SF and GDB front top hats are identical, the only difference is the bolt hole indexing in the fenders. So camber plates are not really interchangeable.

SF rear strut rods are 22mm dia -vs- GDB WRX strut rods are the same 22mm dia.

SF rear bump stops (120mm height, 53mm max dia, solid design) are not a segmented design like the GDB versions. Maybe you could use them but I would opt for the GDB type.



I suspect I will follow these changes up with GDB lateral links (longer), slight rear fender rolling, 3/8 rear tophat spacers, "some" sort of front camber work, and wheels/tires. Maybe work in tinting the windows and some rust repairs.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-04-2016 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:11 AM   #16
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Well after a botched winnow film install, sort of bummed. I was rushing and messed it up. Have some new film on the way for the 2nd attempt.
Also noticed my LHS transverse bushing is now leaking fluid so that will need replacing. Probably looking at pressing an offset bushing into the existing housing for some extra caster. Thinking KCA375M, I just wish it wasn't poly.
Parts inbound to finally get my RoxBlox flaps installed. Also staring to collect the parts I need for an eventual sub-spacer delete.

A few things done before the sun went down. Decided that I needed to cover up those leftover indexing holes from the small "forester" emblem. Was wanting the smaller "subaru" emblem but not really wanting to cover shipping for a $20 part. So I thought I could try this one from a Legacy I think. Looking back I probably should have used one from a newer Forester since the letters are not connected. Heck it's close enough for me. Sort of modern looking maybe?


Had to track down a slow tire leak and thought it was time to check how the eventual wheels would fit with the new suspension. The front fenders overshadow the wheels so much more than the rears. Sort looks funny, like the rear needs the fenders flared out just a bit more.



Although I'm still thinking about using these MT1s. Would it be dumb if my WRX and my Forester have matching wheels?
Confirmed my thinking that using the Impreza Sedan struts gained more clearance between the inner wheel rim and strut body. With the Forester struts these wheels touched the rear strut bodies. With the Impreza Sedan struts these now fit with about the same clearance as my WRX. I suspect if Impreza Wagon struts were used these wheels would still not fit without using some sort of spacers.


Ehh the headlights started flickering on me yesterday morning and again this morning. Looks like I'm ordering a new stalk (83118FC030). $88 ouch. Was thinking of replacing the other stalk as well but another $88; I think I'll wait. I was pretty sure mine is a 83119FC130 version:
83119FC070: The 'vanilla' switch with no variable front position and no intermittent rear.
83119FC100: Has the variable front intermittent position, but does not have the intermittent rear position.
83119FC130: Has both the variable-front and intermittent rear positions.

Started the last steps of my WRX's 5x114.3 bcd changeover so..... I'll have wheels, rear cross member w/ lock bolts, trailing arms w/ GpNs, and some other parts that I can reuse on the FOZ in the spring. Ordered some Kumho PA31 tires in 235/50/17, I hope they fit without too much trouble.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-09-2015 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:14 AM   #17
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Default 2002 Fozzie Forester

Headlight switch installed. The flickering only happened a few times but best to change it out now. Easy 10 minute job.

Got the 235/50/17s mounted on the 17x8 WRX wheels. Everything clears but those tires have more section width than I expected. I'm thinking of swapping one of the tires to the 17x8.5 wheels I have and see if that looks better and still fits. Either way the rear fender lips need rolling to avoid any tire contact under hard corners.



I expect the highway speedo ranges will read a bit lower than before. And so it is, but not enough to bother me.

V6 STI 5MT 235/50/17

5th gear 50 mph GPS cluster reads 1 mph low

5th gear 55 mph GPS cluster reads 2 mph low

5th gear 65 mph GPS cluster reads 3 mph low

5th gear 80 mph GPS cluster reads 3 mph low





Some quick tire switching and mounting last weekend. Then earlier this week I took these in for balancing.





I think I made a good choice going with these over the WRX wheels. I did roll the rear fenders just in case. While she is still a bit tough to look at, the wheels help out tremendously. I'm still considering 3/8 top hat spacers for the rear. Next spring or summer I'll hopefully get to work on the body and turning everything the same color. Sort of wish I would have had 18" wheels handy but the 17" wheels is what I had to work with. The taller sidewall does keep the ride comfy-ish.






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Old 02-09-2015, 10:31 AM   #18
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I got waved at by a bro in a wide brimmed hat at lunch today. I was embarrassed and sad at the same time. Ahh then an exhaust leak happened on my way home from work. At every stop light/sign I sounded like all the young Honda peeps with 2.5" canister exhausts. Just plain embarrassing. It's my own fault, I was being cheap and lazy. When I pulled the rusty hitch off I kept procrastinating the install of the LHS muffler hanger bracket. Over time the muffler weight twisting the exhaust pipe caused a fracture at the midpipe hanger bracket.

Some quick (and very rushed) work with the MIG got the pipe tacked into place so I can use some of that exhaust goo and tape temporarily. Hoping it lasts a week or so of highway driving. A new Stromung RS midpipe is on the way. I'll try to fit up the WRX axle back to this when it arrives. Checked it out the next day and so far so good, my hokey repair seems to be holding up.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-09-2015 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 02-18-2015, 09:57 AM   #19
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The Stromung RS intermediate (midpipe) pipe came in and I finally got a chance to look it over with my leftover WRX axle back.
https://i.imgur.com/RmvqCyH.jpg

I'll have to rethink this a bit since I overlooked one small detail I suspect is an N/A -vs- Turbo difference. Firstly Stromung's midpipe is built very well and is specifically meant as a bolt in replacement to an N/A car (RS, Forester, etc). Stainless tubing, 2.25" diameter, no flex joint, no resonator, and more importantly the front bevel seal that mates up to the N/A sized donut gasket. The flanges are mild steel coated with a protective paint.....I however would happily paid extra for stainless flanges if it was an option. *After 1 1/2 years of daily use. These flanges are simply too corrosion prone and thin to withstand long service life in this region. They must be thicker and preferably stainless steel.* My issue (which was probably well known) is that the midpipe to axle back flange has the bolt holes indexed horizontally......the WRX axle back flange is indexed about 45 degrees off horizontal. There is also a bolt CL difference but that is easily fixed with some drilling/grinding. Horizontal is how I suspect the RS and other N/A cars had this joint designed. 45 degrees off horizontal is how all the Turbo cars seem to be designed. I suspect this could be a process aid during assembly. Since my temporary exhaust bandage is holding up so far I have some time to work with. Pretty sure I am going to modify the midpipe. It's just easier since the material is clean (new) and it allows me to switch out to any STI/WRX axle back with a bolt-in affair. Plus I am researching possible engine plans that could use some flexibility later on.

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Old 02-18-2015, 10:43 AM   #20
Shik
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Great build! Lots of great info for those possibly going down the same road.

If it's going to be your daily driver, it might as well look cool!

Best of luck with it!
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Old 03-20-2015, 12:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shik View Post
Great build! Lots of great info for those possibly going down the same road.
If it's going to be your daily driver, it might as well look cool!
Best of luck with it!
Thanks

Ordered some stuff. I am tired of adding engine oil and dealing with the leaks from the high crankcase pressure. I can get a few more good years out of this Forester yet. Low mile non-AVLS EJ253 assembly. Planning to pull the heads and see if there are in fact 10:1 flat tops in there and install fresh head gaskets. Also switching to a different air filter box and intake assembly to get more working space, use same filters as WRX, and looks better.
Hey cool, I also got a nice 110amp alternator along with it.
https://i.imgur.com/1XE9EJ1.jpg

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Old 03-24-2015, 01:09 PM   #22
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It figures that on Friday evening I would pull down the exhaust to prep for the exhaust work and then find the dang cat pipe outlet flange corroded away. I guess that flange rusting away is pretty common. Was planning to bolt it all back up but that plan was now shot.
https://i.imgur.com/DeetXap.jpg

Had to scramble to find any flange I had on hand to weld onto the cat pipe so I could drive to work on Monday. Found something I could make work on Sunday but ran out of time. Ended up finishing the job on Monday but wouldn't you know the batteries in my Speedglas died just before the final weld and no backup vehicle. So I had a few hour break until my wife got home with some batteries. At least it is done, aside from a few rattles but I was able to go to work this morning.
Also took the time to douche the cat convertors with citric acid solution and install new O2 sensors to see if I can get rid of that dumb P0420 code. *the P0420 still came back*

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-15-2018 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 06-26-2015, 03:32 AM   #23
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Can't tell you how helpful your build has been and will be in the future! Keep it coming bro
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:37 PM   #24
shoots808
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love how this is coming along!
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:10 PM   #25
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I see you replaced some bits in the ac compressor. Got any pics of the process? Wifes compressor is making some noise in her 98 and I was thinking about digging into it.
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