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Old 03-30-2020, 02:16 PM   #1651
GoFrogs
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Member#: 507317
Join Date: Oct 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: SW Ohio
Vehicle:
2019 WRX
Pure Red

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
If this is something that goes under the glove compartment door, it's apparently not present even on the '19 Limiteds.

I have to ask . . . you have to be something of a contortionist to even see that there's no panel there, so does it really do anything useful? Or will it eventually loosen and start to rattle?


Norm
Hey Norm, yes, it is not present on my 2019 Base or any other 2019 trim. In fact, I'm fairly certain the 2020s are without this panel too; why, I have not idea. Good news, it is inexpensive and the dealer usually have a coupon good for $5 off the cost of parts up to $50, so this would qualify.

If you are thrifty, you could probably source one through a "pick-your-parts" yard or, if you trust 'em, ebay motors.

As far as being a contortionist, yes, a little bit of upside down or twisting is necessary, but nothing too uncomfortable.

I plan to add some sound deadener to the panel, to augment the white sound absorbing cloth/fabric pre-installed on the panel.

The overall/final effect may be minimal and placebo-like, but it will at least help prevent the kicking of my blower motor housing.

Cheers.
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Old 03-31-2020, 08:07 AM   #1652
Norm Peterson
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Member#: 498642
Join Date: Mar 2019
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: our wrx IS the family sedan
Vehicle:
'19 WRX Limited 6M
'08 Mustang GT (the toy)

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I don't think I've ever had a car that had such a panel, so I was like, nope, nothin' missing here Į\_(ツ)_/Į

Given that it comes with some insulation, I would agree that keeping some of the blower noise out of the cabin proper is probably the main reason. Protection from fidgety teen-aged feet certainly could be another.


Time was when under-dash work wasn't as bothersome for me as it is now (I'm 72, and there's a couple of joints that don't work as well as they used to). Adjusting the pedal height setting for where the clutch-starter interlock switch trips the starter out was enough of that sort of thing to hold me over for at least the first couple of years of owning this car.


Norm
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Old 04-01-2020, 09:49 PM   #1653
thatgarrett
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Member#: 497099
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: TN
Vehicle:
2007 Outback Sport
Urban Gray

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Got the front seats done with my leather interior swap, simply swapped rail, buckle, and seat sensor module on the passenger side. Drivers side was more involved since it was a power seat before the dual stage airbag sensor was put it so I essentially recovered the stock seat in the leather skins, keeping the extra bolstering support of the stock seat. Wires up the seat heaters and tested everything out, seems to work. Hopefully will swap in the back seat tomorrow and be done
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Old 04-02-2020, 03:51 AM   #1654
contaminatrix
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Member#: 435611
Join Date: Dec 2015
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Nairobi
Vehicle:
2002 SG5-2.0-XT-JDM
45A, originally 18L

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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatgarrett View Post
Got the front seats done with my leather interior swap, simply swapped rail, buckle, and seat sensor module on the passenger side. Drivers side was more involved since it was a power seat before the dual stage airbag sensor was put it so I essentially recovered the stock seat in the leather skins, keeping the extra bolstering support of the stock seat. Wires up the seat heaters and tested everything out, seems to work. Hopefully will swap in the back seat tomorrow and be done
hey, are you able to get pics of how the heater system is wired up? i have one in my car but it's disconnected and i want to make it work for bells and whistle purposes.

thanks/
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:10 AM   #1655
thatgarrett
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Member#: 497099
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: TN
Vehicle:
2007 Outback Sport
Urban Gray

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Quote:
Originally Posted by contaminatrix View Post
hey, are you able to get pics of how the heater system is wired up? i have one in my car but it's disconnected and i want to make it work for bells and whistle purposes.

thanks/
I already have it buttoned back up, but I can describe what I did. I pulled the interior from a wrecked car, so I lifted the carpet and cut out the entire harness under the seats and there are 6 points of connection you need:
1). The connector going to drivers seat
2). The connector going to left switch on console
3). The connector going to right switch on console
4). The grounding bolt on the hump/beam under the passenger seat above the floor vents (there should be an existing connection there, just stack the connector and bolt it back on)
5). The connector going to the passenger seat
6). The blue wire coming from both switches (combines right under the switches) to a ignition switched 12V source. I opted to cut the big connector off the donor harness and use some pliers to pull the wire from the junction of the connectors and the main harness, which pulled the wire from the harness leading to the passenger side and had it come out instead by the connectors. I ran that wire and connected it to the 12V going into the cigarette lighter in the dash. Thatís the only bit of ďcustomĒ wiring I did. Thereís write ups on tapping the right wire under the passenger kick panel and adding relays and fuses, but I tapped that wire and both of the seats on high are handled fine by that supply, and the tap I made has been well documented as well. It was a super easy wiring project. Your colors might differ, so use a voltage meter to look for continuity on a wire between the two switches thatís not ground. The other two wires are specific to the seat connector on each side and wonít have zero resistance.

Itís not bad once you look at it, but if youíre not using a donor harness and itís stock wiring they may or may not be helpful to you
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Old 04-02-2020, 04:33 PM   #1656
Brisky
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Member#: 148078
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Fife, WA
Vehicle:
2017 WRX Base
Crystal White Pearl

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Well I did my first oil change to my new to me 2017 WRX and installed a Fumoto oil drain valve. I torqued it down to a little more than 30 ftlbs mostly because I was not happy with how it was oriented being a little more than hand tight.

I originally thought I had the wrong oil filter due to the size difference compared to OEM but I confirmed it was the correct one with Purolator and carefully closed the hood with a sponge to make sure it would not hurt the hood and it clears just fine.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:34 PM   #1657
oichan
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Member#: 492327
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: A garage in the Midwest
Vehicle:
19 WRX / 16 STI
17 Golf-R / 16 FiST

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GJ, looks good. Fumoto valve is a very welcome addition to the WRX for certain.
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Old 04-03-2020, 12:16 AM   #1658
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd

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Quick drive to warm up fluids. Changed 6MT oil out with gear 300. Replaced a plastic BCS fitting with stainless. Swapped out cracked Process West TMIC with a new TMIC.
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:18 AM   #1659
gathermewool
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Member#: 143624
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: New England
Vehicle:
14 FXTT (hers)
15 Legacy 2.5i Prem (his)

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14 FXT ~78k miles

1. New OE starter installed yesterday
-----Man, was that a pain in the butt to remove!!!)

2. New Group 24 NAPA The Legend Premium battery - BARELY fits with stock terminal ends
-----Old Group 25 battery could have lasted longer (6.5 years), but there were signs that this winter might be problematic
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Old Yesterday, 10:15 AM   #1660
Brisky
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Member#: 148078
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Fife, WA
Vehicle:
2017 WRX Base
Crystal White Pearl

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Put six neodymium magnets on the oil filter to catch metal particles in the filter. I plan to get one to put on the top as well.

Only downside is that I won't get to see what it catches without cutting open the filter. Magnets are cheaper than the actual oil filter magnets for sale ($7 vs $100).
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Old Yesterday, 01:15 PM   #1661
gathermewool
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Member#: 143624
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: New England
Vehicle:
14 FXTT (hers)
15 Legacy 2.5i Prem (his)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brisky View Post
Put six neodymium magnets on the oil filter to catch metal particles in the filter. I plan to get one to put on the top as well.

Only downside is that I won't get to see what it catches without cutting open the filter. Magnets are cheaper than the actual oil filter magnets for sale ($7 vs $100).
I do the same. With end bypass, I wouldnít put a magnet on the end.
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