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Old 03-29-2018, 08:15 PM   #6351
bartyboii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xian_1 View Post
Nope, no defense on my side other than itís what Iíve remembered the rule being for ages. I checked a couple years back and donít see any reference to it either so Iím either 100% wrong or it changed st some point in the last 10-15 years. Iím fairly certain that it used to be a rule and I recall having seen Nats car with adjusters locked down... but hey, maybe I just had this one wrong.

I agree wholeheartedly that reading the rule with fresh eyes tells me itís open... any number of adjustments and any amount of pimpiness is legal.
Well, then Iíll be busy big pimpiní tomorrow at Charlotte Tour! Haha
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Old 04-24-2018, 03:33 AM   #6352
05WrxJr
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Reviving the thread, going back to the format.

11 STi Hatch
1. Stock Engine
2. Greddy Catback (Stock DP and Header)
3. Feal 441 8f/8r. Stock Front bar/ RCE 25mm Rear bar set to stiff
4. -2.5f 0 Toe / -2.0r 0 Toe
5. 245/40/18 on Stock BBS
6. Brakes: Stoptech SS lines, Motul 600, HP+ Pads


Wondering if any of you could clarify one thing. I wanted to run an IAG Street Series AOS, would this be legal for STU? I read the rulebook, "engine management components in the air intake system,
such as a PCV valve or mass airflow sensor, may not be removed, modified,
or replaced, and must retain their original function along the flow path."

Is it possible to run the IAG AOS in STU?
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:36 AM   #6353
AustinTX
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As long as it's plumbed to maintain the PCV, it's legal.
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Old 04-24-2018, 01:22 PM   #6354
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I wrote a letter on this, but only got a "we think the rule is adequate as written."

Its absolutely legal in Street Class as the rule was updated to actually make these systems functional. However, the Street Touring ruleset still carries over the old language. There is an inherent difference between how each read so I asked for the ST language to be updated to be inline with the Street rule... but nope!

FWIW, 14.1 Allowed Modifications Reads: "All Solo Rules Street category allowances, plus all allowances contained in section 14 (Section 14 is Street Touring)."

In my interpretation, I believe the IAG Street series to be compliant within Street, so therefore it is as well in Street Touring. Either way, it functions as the allowances are intending without any unrelated advantage.
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:49 PM   #6355
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Would this be true of the Moroso units as well? It keeps the plumbing the same but inserts a catch can into the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-85484-.../dp/B006JZ96E6
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #6356
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What does everyone use for a catback, and do you have issues with sound?
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:57 PM   #6357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
What does everyone use for a catback, and do you have issues with sound?


I have TurboXS with their standard muffler. Not too loud, never have issues passing sound.
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:10 PM   #6358
subydude
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Just an FYI, I happen to have two Burns mufflers I'm not using and could be convinced to sell. 3" ID X 17" L and I think 5" total OD. One's a two stage and one's a single stage.

Otherwise, I use a maddad whisper on the Whitebaru that I cut open and repacked.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:34 PM   #6359
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Are the burns decently quiet? I have actually been looking at those to use in a replacement axleback.

I am currently running the Tomei Titanium catback (same as Devin). Neither of us have issues with sound anywhere else in the country, but continuously get harassed locally. If I could use a burns, or I was thinking an HKS Carbon Ti to be fabbed to mate my Tomei midpipe, that would be excellent. What I don't want to do is throw a bunch of money at this and still be harassed. Both the Burns and HKS being multi piece, I could theoretically repack them until I get the results I am looking for, correct?
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:52 AM   #6360
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Is it just me or does the Tomei butt plug sap power?
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:40 AM   #6361
subydude
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You could repack for more quiet and the two stage is what a lot of guys in CA use to pass the very low limits out there. The two stage is more restrictive though and can reduce power by a few ponies. The single stage is a straight through muffler that is easy to repack basically. The local guy that used these actually had the two stage plumbed into a Magnaflow bullet muffler into a down turn and that solved the rest of his issues.
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:50 PM   #6362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gti_speed View Post
Is it just me or does the Tomei butt plug sap power?
Absolutely saps power, and without a secondary bolt, also bends the tip.
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:10 AM   #6363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTX View Post
As long as it's plumbed to maintain the PCV, it's legal.
I'll preface this with, I have a PCV Valve in the system. Although I did relocate it.

So here's my argument to this...

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Venting.

The rule states that you must have a functioning PCV system. It does not mention the valve.

A baffled catch can \ AOS system like the IAG or Crawford ones the can itself basically acts as a huge one way valve like a PCV valve.

Now... As I read the rule "Functioning" PCV system. Even if I choose to delete the PCV Valve I would still have a functioning positive pressure venting system in place on the car. If I vent the crankcase to the turbo inlet like normal it still recirculates the crank case fumes back into the motor (which is what uncle Sam is worried about.)

So... do you REALLY need the PCV valve to maintain a functioning PCV system?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06
What does everyone use for a catback, and do you have issues with sound?
I am using the Invidia N1 single exit for an '08 - '10 WRX with extended hangers, because it wont clear the rear bumper without.

Its loud, but I've never even came close to sound. I haven't checked my sound output, but it cant be more than about 82db or so. It does come with a silencer thing that is great for long drives.
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:58 PM   #6364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~The_Duke~ View Post
I'll preface this with, I have a PCV Valve in the system. Although I did relocate it.

So here's my argument to this...

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Venting.

The rule states that you must have a functioning PCV system. It does not mention the valve.

A baffled catch can \ AOS system like the IAG or Crawford ones the can itself basically acts as a huge one way valve like a PCV valve.

Now... As I read the rule "Functioning" PCV system. Even if I choose to delete the PCV Valve I would still have a functioning positive pressure venting system in place on the car. If I vent the crankcase to the turbo inlet like normal it still recirculates the crank case fumes back into the motor (which is what uncle Sam is worried about.)

So... do you REALLY need the PCV valve to maintain a functioning PCV system?

Quote:
For the system to function normally, therefore, the PCV valve must adjust the flow rate as operating conditions change. When the engine is off, the spring inside the valve pushes the pintle shut. This seals the crankcase and prevents the escape of any residual vapors into the atmosphere.
http://dannysengineportal.com/pcv-po...ion-valve-faq/

This is the only gotcha I can think of, there's really no need for it with the engine running. Maybe you can go to a parts store and find a generic PCVV with a very soft spring that's maybe less restrictive to toss in the system......OR install a ball valve for when the engine is off
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:16 PM   #6365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-37 View Post
http://dannysengineportal.com/pcv-po...ion-valve-faq/

This is the only gotcha I can think of, there's really no need for it with the engine running. Maybe you can go to a parts store and find a generic PCVV with a very soft spring that's maybe less restrictive to toss in the system......OR install a ball valve for when the engine is off
Pshhh I have a PCVV from a 1990 ford probe plumbed into the line. It functions perfectly and does everything SEB, Uncle Sam, and my motor need it to. Also if the stupid thing fails its right on top and can be changed in less than 5 mins...

The air flow rate of the for probe is WAY more than the standard one because of the diameter of the openings so not only is it better in every way from a location stand point it shouldn't cause any lack of flow conditions.

What spawned this tangent was a failed or dirty pcv valve that failed open and caused a vacuum leak and a lot of oil blow through so it I was literally sucking a lil bit of oil right into the intake mani. Queue james bond theme... I was refered to as mosquito control at Dixie and ZMAX match tour...

I didn't think of the "while the car is off" thing... I guess that is the same reason the government ruined the gas can...

Last edited by ~The_Duke~; 06-20-2018 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 08-17-2018, 09:54 AM   #6366
Blingstrom
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Curious how many of you are on 265/35s and how you feel about them on the car. Is the slightly larger contact patch worth the extra weight of the wheel/tire assembly.

I have been contemplating moving to 18s for it but would love to hear some input.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:00 AM   #6367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blingstrom View Post
Curious how many of you are on 265/35s and how you feel about them on the car. Is the slightly larger contact patch worth the extra weight of the wheel/tire assembly.

I have been contemplating moving to 18s for it but would love to hear some input.
Depending on your rear camber, the 265s will rub on the rear lip of your quarter panel. It will eventually wear itself off and clear. I was running -1.6 rear camber at the time. I can't really speak of how the car performs because 265s is all I've tried in STU.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:29 AM   #6368
penderperson
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I do not like them, clearance issues weren't bad with 5+į/3.5į camber but the loss of torque was too much for a minimal gain in grip and 2mph. Plus the BFGs are significantly faster on this heavy car.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:33 AM   #6369
Blingstrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iLuveKetchup View Post
Depending on your rear camber, the 265s will rub on the rear lip of your quarter panel. It will eventually wear itself off and clear. I was running -1.6 rear camber at the time. I can't really speak of how the car performs because 265s is all I've tried in STU.
I do know that issue too well. I run pretty high offset wheels to keep it from doing that. My slotted coilover bolt slipped a year ago and rubbed up the overfender and popped it loose.

I used to run -1.8 and now am up at -2.3 and I appear to be going faster. Pax times vs last year. Just wanted to change up the wheel situation on my car and thought it would be nice to have a set on 265s.. If they were as cheap as 255s I probably wouldn't think to much about it.
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Old 08-17-2018, 12:56 PM   #6370
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245/40/17 Hankook RS3s on 17x9s were my favorite. They were the most fun.

I ended up with the 265s as I already had 18s in the right width. I have not tried the 255s on the 17s, but if I was debating between the two and in the market for wheels, I would likely go with the 255s. As stated earlier, the 265s are much heavier and a huge step up in cost over the 255s.

Lately the general trend towards faster and faster nationals courses in my opinion has negated the gearing advantage of the 18s since you end up being in 3rd anyways.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:31 PM   #6371
Blingstrom
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I used to run 245/40s but the tire size increase moved me to 255s as they do not make 265 Re-71rs for 17" wheels.

I was feeling a bit bored of my wheels and thought having a second set in 18s with 265s might be a good upgrade for auto-x. Now I might just look for a second set of 17s. Thanks for input guys!
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Old 08-23-2018, 10:35 AM   #6372
~The_Duke~
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Here is my opinion on tires...

255 40 17 BFG Rival-S > 265 35 18 Nexen SUR4G > 265 35 18 RE71R

The BFG is just the best tire for our cars, hands down. However the slackers don't make the right size. These things love heat compared to the other 2 tires. They still need sprayed on really hot days but their grip doesn't fall way off upon reaching "too hot".

The Nexen drives about like the BFG, but doesn't quite have the peak grip or heat tolerance. However they are still very predictable and usable upon reaching "too hot".

I love the RE71R in the rain and REALLY cold days (below 50 degrees), however if its the slightest bit warm they are the bane of my existence. They have very low tolerance for heat, they get to temp as soon as I leave the line and I can barely get 1 run out of them before they reach "too hot". The rest of the day I just spend fighting oversteer and mid corner wash out.

If you're in a GD chassis or a WRX, hands down you should be buying the BFG Rival-S this year.

Word has it the next generation of tires will be coming out in 2019, just in time for me to wear out these nexens I just mounted up.
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Old 08-23-2018, 01:18 PM   #6373
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Single Driver car, with 3 runs per heat, RE71R all day even in summer heat. Hands down faster on colder days/mornings too.

Two drivers in the summer def want to be on the RivalS 1.5.
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Old 08-23-2018, 03:20 PM   #6374
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I don't have heat issues like you do with the 71R. I also hate the BFG. What is your setup like that your getting the Stone too hot during one run??
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Old 08-23-2018, 05:09 PM   #6375
~The_Duke~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
I don't have heat issues like you do with the 71R. I also hate the BFG. What is your setup like that your getting the Stone too hot during one run??
-4.0 camber a bit of toe out
-2.25 camber alil of toe out

13k front springs on fortune autos (This is prolly part of the problem)
16k rear springs

RCE 25.5 front sway bar on stiff
No rear sway

Fat car is fat... between 3200 and 3300 somewhere
I have a lot of torques...

The air coming out of the tires gave me a burn blister after 2 runs at Bristol, had to wear a glove to let air out after that. My codriver and I both got 1 really grippy run. After that it just went downhill. I've had this problem through the life of the bridgestone (4th or 5th set I've lost count), but has gotten worse as my car and myself have gotten faster.

I'm not the only one that has kicked the stones to use the BFG or Nexen due to heat tolerance... Like I said if it wet or cold, RE71R is a bit faster for sure. I am taking a set to nationals in case of rain or cold.
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