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09-13-2006, 04:06 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
SVX Tec II Fuel and Idle Issues
I am dealing with multiple issues and would appreciate any advice in that regard. I was having some idle issues. So I blocked off the idle air controller and the cold engine air recirculation lines for testing. Before warming the car up, I checked the cold engine recirulating valve to see if it was open. It was. After warming up the engine it still seemed open which concerned me a bit. Then after setting the idle manually I connected the idle air controller and the idle jumped to 730 rpms. I manually adjusted the idle down, but I thought that the idle air control valve should have been shut. Shouldn't it only open if the idle is off, or their is something like the AC that comes on? Anyway I turned it down.
Overheating is still an issue. I am starting to think I have a bad radiator. I can monitor my engine temperature digitally, and when I turn the heater on the engine heat drops immediately. When I turn the heat off, the temp climbs immediately. Its like the radiator does nothing. I'm going to flush the system again. Both the radiator and the block separately. I may even shove a snake in to see if something is clogging it. The radiator is relatively new. I don't want to start replacing parts until the problem goes away. If I do replace the radiator, I will probably go with the PWR radiator. Another issue I have been dealing with is tuning with the engine management. I have two O2 sensors. One is a narrow band, which is tied into the engine management. The other is a stand alone wide band, which I am monitoring separately. I can get the injectors set (not the easiest task), but then when I try to let the engine management tune using the narrow band, the readings go wack. I even tried messing with the calibration curve and the sensitivity of the changes that the sensor has. No go. I am an engineer, and I deal with control issues regularly. It seems ludicrice to try to tune based on the readings from a narrow band. The values swing so suddenly, I think it would be impossible to get anything set right. Am I the only one that thinks this way? I am seriously considering permanenely installing the wideband, and running an output to my engine management. Fortunately the the electromotive will let me do this. Either that or setting up the narrowband as more of a failsafe, in the event that the mixture goes way too lean, like around 15.2 or so, the EM will kick up the fuel a bit. But leave the settings alone otherwise. Most folks don't allow EGO correction over 1800 rpms anyway. They let the management do the work. Besides the SVX has a good habit of stalling when it gets too lean (or so I have found out).
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09-16-2006, 11:00 AM | #2 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :( |
Quote:
how about trying a tec branded o2 sensor and using the tec defaults? your only using it for correction at idle and cruise anyway i am starting to think you have a bad thermostat time for a 160deg fail-to-open unit i run a 1000 rpm idle .. i have no IAC at all bummer you not closer .. it took me ~3 years to wrap my head around how to make th tec do what i want |
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09-17-2006, 10:31 PM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Progress
Got the idle to settle down. Had to go through many iterations of adjustment and disconnection of the IAC unit. I was tempted to remove it all together like you did.
My heat problems are gone. I flushed my radiator before, but this weekend I did a reverse flush with my garden hose connected with pressure fittings. When I blocked the flow out and build pressure, suddenly I got much better flow. I filled with 25% antifreeze (I live in Florida) and my temps never ran over 92C. I also changed to a 160 degree thermostat. I did a few pulls too and ran the AC after pulling. Not running much boost yet, about 3 psi till I get everything worked out the way I want it. I am going to need new tires now though, because the tail started to slide going into 2nd gear. Overall I'm pretty happy, but I'm still running really rich. It seems like the output of the LM-1 could be sent in two different ways. One is to simulate a narrowband. I need to mess around more with it to see if I can change the output curve to be linear, since we have the ability to calibrate curves however we feel like, as long as the voltage is between 0-1V. For some reason the tec multiplies everything by 5V, so the calibrations ends up being in multiples of 5. I don't know why they did this. As for taking a long time to set this up. Jared gave me some pointers and some files to start with, and they were a big help. He is a really nice guy. I also tried a map that was from a supercharged SVX. I'm getting some knock around by peak torque so I switched to Jareds map. Still get some knock. I'm starting to think that it is just engine noise. Knock never got past 40 then the Tec pulled timing. Worked well too, because I could not even tell it was happening. I hope it won't take too long. Thanks for your advice, I'll keep you posted on my progress. Take Care |
09-18-2006, 04:30 PM | #4 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :( |
i suspect that the guy running the super charged map must have had his crank sensor mounted wrong ..there is just no way that you want to be running +40deg of advance at 4500 under boost
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09-18-2006, 09:10 PM | #5 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Knock
Quote:
Although the SVX has similar characteristics to a high compression RS motor, there are some differences. Peak torque of 228 ft/lbs stock is at 4400. Peak HP of 230 HP is at 5400. An Iris valve opens, varying the intake length of all cylinders at about 4000 RPMs, which seems to be when I get the sudden slam of engine noise. I don't want to lower my advance too much, as my EGT was just creeping past 800C. |
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09-18-2006, 09:14 PM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
More on Knock
Oh, I forgot to mention. My knock reading was 40. My timing was about 32 deg, which is probably still pretty high. It was much lower in Jareds map, and still getting knock.
Mind you, I did not here pinging. This is just what I read off the knock sensor. It could just be engine noise. I would prefer to get the car in a dyno soon. I don't trust myself enought to tune without professional help. |
09-18-2006, 09:45 PM | #7 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :( |
32 is fine in vaccume .. but not w/ boost...
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09-19-2006, 09:39 AM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Timing
It was not much boost. Maybe 1-2 psi. I'm going to take your advice and drop it though. I'm sure it will only get worse. Are you running Tec2? What type of engine noise levels do you get when you run, that is separate from a detonation event? I'm curious to know where I should set my timing retard.
Thanks Chuck D. |
09-19-2006, 03:41 PM | #9 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :( |
less than 5 durring normal operation i have knock threshold at 35 step of 5 max of 20 .. i think
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09-24-2006, 08:15 AM | #10 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
More Questions
Quote:
When you run your impreza full out. Do you have engine noise being picked up by the sensor? I guess what I'm trying to detemine is how much of what I am seeing on the knock sensor is knock and how much is normal engine noise. It may be something I need to ignore. I know that I am supposed to turn off the knock sensor and tune without it, but I'm afraid! Don't want to shoot a piston through the head! |
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09-24-2006, 07:40 PM | #11 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:The 93 W/EJ20K-sold Subaru-less :( |
i think your fueling is just off and you have way too much timing ...
my tec is going bye bye, since this thread started i got a good deal on a complete v.3 drive train (factory em +vf-22 here i come) |
09-24-2006, 09:43 PM | #12 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Quote:
Sounds cool. I also have a 02 WRX and my wife has a 2006 FXT. I should make my life easier and just stick with the WRX, which has no engine mods. My fueling is rich consistently. My timing has varied from too high to to low. Do you ever log any noise on the knock sensor? I'm not hearing any predetonation during these events. |
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09-29-2006, 04:20 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 6070
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Longwood, FL
Vehicle:2015 STi Dark Gray Metallic |
Not Enough Timing
Well dropping the timing was not working out. So I tried emmulating the psyco supercharged map developed by a fellow who also developed a supercharger for the SVX. He runs over 30 degrees when boosting. Actually had to raise the stock timing. Guess what? The car runs great. I still get noise, but no pinging. I just set the sensitivity of the knock sensor up. Had to make some minor adjustments, but it worked great. Next I'm going to try backing down on the fuel a bit. Hopefully the dyno will just be needed for tweeking.
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