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01-24-2019, 01:00 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Arizona
Vehicle:18 WRX Stg 2 tuned Silver |
Is this as simple as take old one off and this on (on MY18) or are there things to watch for during install?
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01-24-2019, 01:11 PM | #29 |
*** Banned ***
Member Sales Rating: (0)
Member#: 492861
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Arizona
Vehicle:18 WRX Stg 2 tuned Silver |
I enjoy watching lasthumansgarage more as a show than how to do things properly because it usually takes him two to three tries and he doesn't cut out the fails, which is what makes it watchable as a show.
Thank you. Are you running one too? |
04-06-2019, 01:03 PM | #33 |
Scooby Guru
Member Sales Rating: (109)
Member#: 82745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:2005 Subaru STI 2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon |
I have both ATI and Fluidampr and you don't have trimming issues with the ATI as well as needing a puller to remove it. My assessment of both products is, ATI is race and Fluidampr is for consumers.
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04-09-2019, 11:19 AM | #36 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
I purchased this pulley almost a year ago and finally got around to installing it. I did my belts while I was at it. My car is an 06 WRX wagon with STi trans.
Installation It should've been a lot smoother but as all things go with modding the car, it became slightly of a pain. For all EJ engines, at least 2002-2007, the center timing cover needs to be trimmed. At first, I wanted to remove it but I had so much trouble just trying to remove one of the rusted bolts that I decided to trim it without removing it. I had to remove the passenger side fan in order to get my dremel tool in there with a rectangle cutoff blade. I put some painters tape on the inside of the "ring" and went at it carefully with the dremel keeping the blade flat against the cover and using all sorts of blade angles to get around the ring. It was a plus that my dremel had a variable trigger. I don't know about you guys but the pulley was an extremely tight fit. Even just to get it initially pressed on was a pain. And because of this tight fit, it was not easy for me to align the "tooth" with the opening in the pulley. I had to make marks on the pulley to better eyeball it, then tighten the bolt slowly to see if it went in properly. It took me about three tries before it aligned properly. No special tool was needed, I just kept the car in 6th gear when I was tightening to spec. Smooth is the best way to describe my initial impressions. The engine idles a lot better cold or warm. The car seems to rev a lot faster or smoother when you really get on it. I noticed this when I was at an highway on ramp that had a stop sign. I went through gears 1-4 at full throttle and I was amazed at how much faster the car seemed to rev and how the car jerked around a lot less when shifting. The car always seemed to sound and feel like it was falling apart when I did this kind of driving previously and I thought it was just the nature of the beast but this fluidampr pulley is making a huge difference in how smoothly the engine runs. It just feels so much calmer all around. Cruising on the highway is also quieter but not by much. I had a friend in the car and I didn't tell him I did anything. He told me how the car felt a lot smoother all around during the drive. I definitely recommend this pulley for those who are currently running either stock or a lightweight pulley. I've known of a few stock pulleys that have failed when the cars were running a decent amount of power. My friend's forester was just running stage 1 at 80K miles. The outer metal sheared off from the inner part of the pulley mounted to the crankshaft. Then the outer metal started eating into the timing cover and we caught it just in time before it did any serious damage. A new stock pulley is just roughly half the price of a fluidampr. Factoring in the cost, I think it would be well worth it to upgrade from a stock pulley. As with everyone else's reviews going from LW to this pulley, you can recoop some of the cost by selling the LW one. Nothing wrong with just running your LW one if you're not convinced. But if you are, you can wait like I did and do it when you do your belts. |
04-09-2019, 09:30 PM | #37 |
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Member Sales Rating: (109)
Member#: 82745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:2005 Subaru STI 2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon |
Yeah, the fit of the Fluidampr sucks, but the ATI fits like OEM. The performance is the same on both. I couldn't tell the difference. I would recommend ATI over the Fluidampr.
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04-10-2020, 09:45 AM | #42 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
Quote:
I just had a thought in terms of installation. If you can time it where you are also changing out the coolant, then you can spend like 5 more minutes to remove the radiator. This way, you can actually use the bumper grill opening(s) to see and install the damper. With good lighting, you should be able to align the 'tooth' and 'tooth opening' much easier. Damn I should've thought of this when I did the installation. Probably would've saved me at least an hour and back pain. |
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04-10-2020, 07:11 PM | #43 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: VT
Vehicle:2005 2.5 SC OB |
I talked to fluid this morning and they said it’s a slip fit.
I know some people have said it’s a press fit which is why I was curious. Maybe it has changed. I ordered one on sale from Jegs this morning for $330 shipped including taxes. |
04-12-2020, 12:22 PM | #46 |
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Vehicle:2005 2.5 SC OB |
It may be that Fluid has slightly changed the bore... or it could just be luck. I have read various accounts of people saying that ATI and/or Fluid are slip fit or press fit...
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04-13-2020, 09:14 AM | #48 |
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Member Sales Rating: (80)
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:06 GG WRX / 09 FXT @florencedestinedfxt |
what also might have caused my fitment issue may be due to the fact that I tried to tighten it down with the bolt with the tooth misaligned initially. I remember that leaving a slight indent mark on the backside when I realized something didn't feel right. That may have caused the bore to be out of round a little contributing to the tight fit.
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04-14-2020, 12:59 PM | #49 |
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Nice write up here.
But which one is better? The ATI or the fluidamper?? ANd why? I ve read soem other reviews saying that the ATI needs a rebuilt... is it true? Thanks for sharing that info. It is very crucialto most of us with high hps! |
04-20-2020, 02:41 PM | #50 | |
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Member Sales Rating: (109)
Member#: 82745
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: So Cal
Vehicle:2005 Subaru STI 2003 EJ207 S204 Wagon |
Quote:
ATI gives you the option to rebuild if necessary, like if you jacked it up for some reason. Such as you dropped it on the ground and damaged the pulleys, the body, the elastomer, etc. With the Fluidampr, if you damaged it, you have to buy another one. The ATI damper is superior (due to it's additional features and no modifications required for installation) to the Fluidampr and I own both on two different Subaru's. I also own three other crank pulleys (Cobb, Perrin, and Grimmspeed) that I ran. So I'm completely unbias in my assessment. Last edited by Fierysun; 04-20-2020 at 03:15 PM. |
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