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Old 01-24-2019, 01:00 PM   #26
Stija
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Is this as simple as take old one off and this on (on MY18) or are there things to watch for during install?
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Old 01-24-2019, 01:08 PM   #27
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Old 01-24-2019, 01:09 PM   #28
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Old 01-24-2019, 01:11 PM   #29
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I enjoy watching lasthumansgarage more as a show than how to do things properly because it usually takes him two to three tries and he doesn't cut out the fails, which is what makes it watchable as a show.

Thank you. Are you running one too?
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:07 AM   #30
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Great write up, I want one now!
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:03 PM   #31
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So, does this still require cutting timing cover for clearance on a 2015+ STi/EJ257?
Or was that only in older models?
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
So, does this still require cutting timing cover for clearance on a 2015+ STi/EJ257?
Or was that only in older models?
yes it sure does. Really easy to do though....
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Old 04-06-2019, 01:03 PM   #33
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I have both ATI and Fluidampr and you don't have trimming issues with the ATI as well as needing a puller to remove it. My assessment of both products is, ATI is race and Fluidampr is for consumers.
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Old 04-07-2019, 11:22 AM   #34
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installed mine in when i did the engine build, noticed 0 difference from stock
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Old 04-07-2019, 01:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
installed mine in when i did the engine build, noticed 0 difference from stock
Then you should've taken a closer look.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:19 AM   #36
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I purchased this pulley almost a year ago and finally got around to installing it. I did my belts while I was at it. My car is an 06 WRX wagon with STi trans.

Installation

It should've been a lot smoother but as all things go with modding the car, it became slightly of a pain. For all EJ engines, at least 2002-2007, the center timing cover needs to be trimmed. At first, I wanted to remove it but I had so much trouble just trying to remove one of the rusted bolts that I decided to trim it without removing it. I had to remove the passenger side fan in order to get my dremel tool in there with a rectangle cutoff blade. I put some painters tape on the inside of the "ring" and went at it carefully with the dremel keeping the blade flat against the cover and using all sorts of blade angles to get around the ring. It was a plus that my dremel had a variable trigger.

I don't know about you guys but the pulley was an extremely tight fit. Even just to get it initially pressed on was a pain. And because of this tight fit, it was not easy for me to align the "tooth" with the opening in the pulley. I had to make marks on the pulley to better eyeball it, then tighten the bolt slowly to see if it went in properly. It took me about three tries before it aligned properly.

No special tool was needed, I just kept the car in 6th gear when I was tightening to spec.


Smooth is the best way to describe my initial impressions. The engine idles a lot better cold or warm. The car seems to rev a lot faster or smoother when you really get on it. I noticed this when I was at an highway on ramp that had a stop sign. I went through gears 1-4 at full throttle and I was amazed at how much faster the car seemed to rev and how the car jerked around a lot less when shifting. The car always seemed to sound and feel like it was falling apart when I did this kind of driving previously and I thought it was just the nature of the beast but this fluidampr pulley is making a huge difference in how smoothly the engine runs. It just feels so much calmer all around. Cruising on the highway is also quieter but not by much. I had a friend in the car and I didn't tell him I did anything. He told me how the car felt a lot smoother all around during the drive.

I definitely recommend this pulley for those who are currently running either stock or a lightweight pulley. I've known of a few stock pulleys that have failed when the cars were running a decent amount of power. My friend's forester was just running stage 1 at 80K miles. The outer metal sheared off from the inner part of the pulley mounted to the crankshaft. Then the outer metal started eating into the timing cover and we caught it just in time before it did any serious damage. A new stock pulley is just roughly half the price of a fluidampr. Factoring in the cost, I think it would be well worth it to upgrade from a stock pulley. As with everyone else's reviews going from LW to this pulley, you can recoop some of the cost by selling the LW one. Nothing wrong with just running your LW one if you're not convinced. But if you are, you can wait like I did and do it when you do your belts.
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:30 PM   #37
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Yeah, the fit of the Fluidampr sucks, but the ATI fits like OEM. The performance is the same on both. I couldn't tell the difference. I would recommend ATI over the Fluidampr.
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Old 04-13-2019, 06:52 PM   #38
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Seems like an interesting upgrade and also easy to install, am i missing something or is it just damper off dampr on?
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Old 04-14-2019, 01:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Seems like an interesting upgrade and also easy to install, am i missing something or is it just damper off dampr on?
Yes for the ATI, not the case with the Fluidampr.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:36 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexy18 View Post
Seems like an interesting upgrade and also easy to install, am i missing something or is it just damper off dampr on?
It is for the fa20
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Old 04-10-2020, 08:51 AM   #41
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Would the Fluidampr be a good combo with a 13# flywheel, or would you leave stock flywheel weight?
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Old 04-10-2020, 09:45 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcampbell View Post
Would the Fluidampr be a good combo with a 13# flywheel, or would you leave stock flywheel weight?
Flywheel weight should not be a factor.

I just had a thought in terms of installation. If you can time it where you are also changing out the coolant, then you can spend like 5 more minutes to remove the radiator. This way, you can actually use the bumper grill opening(s) to see and install the damper. With good lighting, you should be able to align the 'tooth' and 'tooth opening' much easier. Damn I should've thought of this when I did the installation. Probably would've saved me at least an hour and back pain.
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Old 04-10-2020, 07:11 PM   #43
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I talked to fluid this morning and they said it’s a slip fit.

I know some people have said it’s a press fit which is why I was curious.

Maybe it has changed.

I ordered one on sale from Jegs this morning for $330 shipped including taxes.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:38 AM   #44
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mine slid on with no issue similar to the OE one...
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:41 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi03 View Post
mine slid on with no issue similar to the OE one...
I am quite jealous of you.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:22 PM   #46
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It may be that Fluid has slightly changed the bore... or it could just be luck. I have read various accounts of people saying that ATI and/or Fluid are slip fit or press fit...
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Old 04-13-2020, 12:56 AM   #47
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I know its close...but if you have it slightly misaligned, which is easy to do it will bind going on...
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Old 04-13-2020, 09:14 AM   #48
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what also might have caused my fitment issue may be due to the fact that I tried to tighten it down with the bolt with the tooth misaligned initially. I remember that leaving a slight indent mark on the backside when I realized something didn't feel right. That may have caused the bore to be out of round a little contributing to the tight fit.
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Old 04-14-2020, 12:59 PM   #49
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Nice write up here.
But which one is better?
The ATI or the fluidamper??
ANd why?
I ve read soem other reviews saying that the ATI needs a rebuilt...
is it true?
Thanks for sharing that info. It is very crucialto most of us with high hps!
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Old 04-20-2020, 02:41 PM   #50
Fierysun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedscossie View Post
Nice write up here.
But which one is better?
The ATI or the fluidamper??
ANd why?
I ve read soem other reviews saying that the ATI needs a rebuilt...
is it true?
Thanks for sharing that info. It is very crucialto most of us with high hps!
It's kind of crazy all the misinformation being spread about the ATI damper. Maybe someone at Fluidampr or someone sponsored by them is doing this? Which is injustice for the Subaru community.

ATI gives you the option to rebuild if necessary, like if you jacked it up for some reason. Such as you dropped it on the ground and damaged the pulleys, the body, the elastomer, etc. With the Fluidampr, if you damaged it, you have to buy another one.

The ATI damper is superior (due to it's additional features and no modifications required for installation) to the Fluidampr and I own both on two different Subaru's. I also own three other crank pulleys (Cobb, Perrin, and Grimmspeed) that I ran. So I'm completely unbias in my assessment.

Last edited by Fierysun; 04-20-2020 at 03:15 PM.
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