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Old 09-25-2021, 04:38 PM   #26
PotatoFlakeSTi
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2011 STi / 98 LSTi

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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
Just picked up a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft because the unit included with my swap was a bit too rusted for my liking.

Also used some of my store credit on Import Image Racing to snag an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

Will be pairing those drive-line mods with Dom Acia's new lightened crank pulley. He designed it to be able to add a bolt on damper down the line when he finished designing it.

I look at carbon driveshafts a few times a year... One day I'll pull the trigger.

Let us know how to like Dom's pulley.
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Old 09-26-2021, 02:27 PM   #27
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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2002 WRX - Link ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PotatoFlakeSTi View Post
I look at carbon driveshafts a few times a year... One day I'll pull the trigger.

Let us know how to like Dom's pulley.

It was a toss-up for me to go with an aluminum driveshaft from DSS or a local shop, or just full sending it and getting the carbon fiber shaft to allow me to push the absolute limits with this car if ~600WHP doesn't scratch my power itch down the line...

The way I see it, I was going to have to pay for ~1.5 hours of labor to clearance the driveshaft tunnel correctly for the larger 3" aluminum shaft anyway, I might as well put that money to better use by just getting the carbon fiber shaft in the first place. It being 2.75" should allow it to bolt up with 0 modification.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 10-01-2021 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 10-01-2021, 09:46 PM   #28
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Vehicle:
2002 WRX - Link ECU
currently being installed

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GDT pulley arrived today along with the HPS 5.0 pads and Whiteline lateral links.



Machining quality is impeccable and I verbally exclaimed when I saw how precisely the logo is machined. CNCs are crazy

Still waiting for the cf driveshaft, flywheel and some other odds and ends before the car gets taken in to get 6MT swapped and tuned - But we are very close
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:27 PM   #29
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Location: Seattle, WA
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2002 WRX - Link ECU
currently being installed

Default Steering wheel

In the process of applying an East Deatiling wrap to an 04 STi wheel.


Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 10-02-2021 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:16 AM   #30
alexmartynyuk
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Saw that you were using octane booster. With the experience I have from using octane boosters is that most of them hardly work. However there is one that seems to work really well and thats VP Octanium. There is a leaded and unleaded version, they both work very well; however for long term use I would recommend using the unleaded version. Not sure if you can find it easily up in Seattle but down here in Vancouver you can readily get it at autozone.
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Old 10-04-2021, 10:06 AM   #31
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmartynyuk View Post
Saw that you were using octane booster. With the experience I have from using octane boosters is that most of them hardly work. However there is one that seems to work really well and thats VP Octanium. There is a leaded and unleaded version, they both work very well; however for long term use I would recommend using the unleaded version. Not sure if you can find it easily up in Seattle but down here in Vancouver you can readily get it at autozone.
Lucas seems to work well for me and my tuning shop has had experience directly reducing knock as a result of using it.

Everyone has a favorite whether it Torco, Lucas, VP, etc.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 10-04-2021 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 10-04-2021, 10:19 PM   #32
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Reconditioning of the 04 STi steering wheel is 99% done!

Looks good but not perfect, thread was a PITA to work with and kept knotting. Glad I went with suede and perforated leather as my option.
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Old 10-05-2021, 07:05 AM   #33
undyjr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g View Post
Reconditioning of the 04 STi steering wheel is 99% done!

Looks good but not perfect, thread was a PITA to work with and kept knotting. Glad I went with suede and perforated leather as my option.
I wrapped my wheel off the car too, waaayyy easier. Your stitching looks good.
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Old 10-05-2021, 10:32 AM   #34
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undyjr View Post
I wrapped my wheel off the car too, waaayyy easier. Your stitching looks good.
Yeah it's was a huge PITA regardless since the 04 STi wheel is differently sized than the 05-07 wheel and the wrap didn't fit perfectly.

Still looks better than before
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Old 10-11-2021, 04:58 PM   #35
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Just picked up 10 gallons of VP X85 (all that was left)

Cost was, as expected, super high - around $14/gal after tax. But I'd rather my boost and timing be configured on the dyno and street by my tuner using the highest quality E85 I can get before I switch to pump ethanol.

Speaking of, considering it's already fall, my local E pump likely puts out less than E70 right now anyway.

I would have picked up some E98 from the same vendor, they do have some in stock, but considering I will be running ID1050Xs, I imagine pure E85 will likely be close to the ethanol limit for this injector setup's potential. Not to mention I'm on a stock USDM 205 bottom end...

I'm including these VP cans along with the ~20 gallons of pump E I have already setup for my tuner to use for idle and steady state tuning - then we will add the VP fuel to do the power pulls.


Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 10-13-2021 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 10-23-2021, 04:42 PM   #36
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Its already the two year anniversary of buying my WRX. God time flies by...

Anyway - instead of throwing away or selling the fender silencer box that I removed when installing my intake, I decided to repurpose it as an intake elbow to direct air from the front air snorkel to my Cobb air-box.

This is a fairly well established "free mod" and I have seen several write ups detailing this. None of them on NASIOC oddly enough though.

A few minutes with a Dremel and a few coats of black RTV, and I have a functional, if not particularly beautiful, intake elbow.

I made sure there was a small hole in the bottom in order to let any trapped water out, mimicking the OEM design.

Any of you GD guys who have an airbox, be it Cobb or OEM, and you've deleted the silencer, I think its worth the few minutes it took to mock this up in order to lower your intake temps from the ducting.




Car should be 6MT swapped, tuned and all finished within a few weeks. It's currently sitting my tuner's shop.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 10-24-2021 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:30 PM   #37
SubaruMafia7
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pretty sweet man
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:49 PM   #38
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Originally Posted by SubaruMafia7 View Post
pretty sweet man
Thank you
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Old 10-29-2021, 11:01 PM   #39
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Location: Seattle, WA
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currently being installed

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Currently in the process of making decisions about setting up rolling anti lag and launch control and what buttons/switches to use, etc.
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Old 11-12-2021, 02:29 PM   #40
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX - Link ECU
currently being installed

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Car is currently being upgraded to the Link ECU along with the 6MT swap, 20G-XTR, etc. etc.

I am still adding parts to the pile though, I placed my orders for my Killer B WRC style shift knob w/ TS extension and, more importantly, a (full aluminum production version) Dark MatterX shifter

Was able to get in as the last pre-order.





Orders should ship out Nov 30 - Dec 31

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 11-12-2021 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 11-25-2021, 07:34 AM   #41
yosemitemtb
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Location: Central California
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'02 WRX Wagon
Original owner blue pearl

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Interesting build. Have you gotten the driveshaft yet? I had to do a little bit of work in the tunnel to get my PST carbon driveshaft in, it just barely touched the housing for the parking brake cable at the rear and the Kartboy rear shifter bushing at the front. For routing air into my Cobb air box, I did some surgery on the front snorkel piece followed by some fiberglass work to close off the end and smooth out the radius to direct air right into the air box instead of going through the fender. I also cut a piece of aluminum (repurposed Starbucks sign I found somewhere) to close off the front between the air box and the ABS stuff, my idea is to keep as much air from that side of the radiator from going into the box. I see intake temps within a couple of degrees of ambient under W.O.T. I did leave the hole into the fender open, I found if I block it off, the car does not like idling while coasting at speed. Pushing in the clutch or putting it into neutral at more than about 45mph and coasting will stall the motor if the air box is sealed up too well to the snorkel. Anyway, it was your dyno plots and a few other similar to my build parts that led me to your thread, at a dyno day my stock block ej205 with a ported, billet wheel vf39 made 261hp and 252 tq yesterday on a stingy Mustang dyno. I'm pretty happy with that, I'm just getting my feet wet road tuning the car myself so the map is still pretty conservative. 2002 wagon, vf39 with a 4.11 JDM 5 speed w/ a helical front lsd.
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Old 11-25-2021, 07:49 AM   #42
yosemitemtb
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Join Date: Aug 2002
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'02 WRX Wagon
Original owner blue pearl

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Another note about the driveshaft, when I installed mine the first time, it ran smooth as glass. After removing and reinstalling it to do the work in the tunnel, I had a very noticeable vibration above about 50mph. I tried re-clocking it at the rear diff with no change in all four positions. I had to re-clock it at the transmission end. I started moving it 2 splines at a time in the same direction, getting a little better with each move, then a couple of single spline moves to smooth things out. I found plenty of posts about clocking the end at the rear diff but not really any about doing it at the tranny.
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Old 11-25-2021, 12:06 PM   #43
K3rm1tth3fr0g
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX - Link ECU
currently being installed

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Quote:
Originally Posted by yosemitemtb View Post
Interesting build. Have you gotten the driveshaft yet? I had to do a little bit of work in the tunnel to get my PST carbon driveshaft in, it just barely touched the housing for the parking brake cable at the rear and the Kartboy rear shifter bushing at the front. For routing air into my Cobb air box, I did some surgery on the front snorkel piece followed by some fiberglass work to close off the end and smooth out the radius to direct air right into the air box instead of going through the fender. I also cut a piece of aluminum (repurposed Starbucks sign I found somewhere) to close off the front between the air box and the ABS stuff, my idea is to keep as much air from that side of the radiator from going into the box. I see intake temps within a couple of degrees of ambient under W.O.T. I did leave the hole into the fender open, I found if I block it off, the car does not like idling while coasting at speed. Pushing in the clutch or putting it into neutral at more than about 45mph and coasting will stall the motor if the air box is sealed up too well to the snorkel. Anyway, it was your dyno plots and a few other similar to my build parts that led me to your thread, at a dyno day my stock block ej205 with a ported, billet wheel vf39 made 261hp and 252 tq yesterday on a stingy Mustang dyno. I'm pretty happy with that, I'm just getting my feet wet road tuning the car myself so the map is still pretty conservative. 2002 wagon, vf39 with a 4.11 JDM 5 speed w/ a helical front lsd.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yosemitemtb View Post
Another note about the driveshaft, when I installed mine the first time, it ran smooth as glass. After removing and reinstalling it to do the work in the tunnel, I had a very noticeable vibration above about 50mph. I tried re-clocking it at the rear diff with no change in all four positions. I had to re-clock it at the transmission end. I started moving it 2 splines at a time in the same direction, getting a little better with each move, then a couple of single spline moves to smooth things out. I found plenty of posts about clocking the end at the rear diff but not really any about doing it at the tranny.
I don't have the driveshaft as of now, it's at my tuner's shop being installed currently. I went with the DSS CF shaft specifically because fitment issues are much less common with it vs the PST unit based on my research. Only modding required for this shaft is drilling the diff holes out. You get what you pay for.

Post some pics of your intake ducting handy work. Im always curious to see some makeshift ingenuity. Just remember you need to upload the BBcode from NASIOC IMG of any pics you try to upload.

I highly doubt my fender snorkel mod will cause any problems idling at speed and should just passively direct airflow into the airbox. It's not a sealed unit, all I did was chop the fender silencer up to delete the silencer and just turn it into an elbow.

Last edited by K3rm1tth3fr0g; 11-25-2021 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Today, 01:05 AM   #44
yosemitemtb
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'02 WRX Wagon
Original owner blue pearl

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I haven't posted pics here on Nasioc in years, gotta relearn that skill.

Last edited by yosemitemtb; Today at 01:11 AM.
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