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Old 05-10-2013, 12:23 PM   #326
Slimsti
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Mine did something kinda like that last year. Went through 1st and 2nd gear just fine and when i went into 3rd the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. Turned out it unsprung and while doing so it cracked my bell housing. It was the weirdest thing to ever happen to any of my cars, ever
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:56 AM   #327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
Finally got an opportunity to do a pull. Fourth gear starting ~4000 rpm.

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Old 05-11-2013, 10:10 AM   #328
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You need to start lower mine is hitting 20psi at 4300rpm this at 65 F.

Can you post the rest of the graph? how much did she make?
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I'll try to get some photos today if I can.

What exactly happened, you were shifting into 3rd and then what, the clip popped out and deformed like your photo?
don't forget to get pics
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:27 PM   #330
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I got pics of the back fuel pump area today. Lets see if I can post them up here in a few.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:28 PM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
You need to start lower mine is hitting 20psi at 4300rpm this at 65 F.

Can you post the rest of the graph? how much did she make?
Start your pulls between 2500 & 3000!
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:31 AM   #332
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
I hope that the monoloc helps with my third gear high rpm lock out issue.
That clip should help it looks like a better design and it's hardened steel! What motor, trans mounts and pitch stop are you using? What do you have for rear cross member differential carrier and rear sub-frame/ outrigger bushings?

I wonder if the torque is twisting your driveline and contributing to the difficulty with the 3rd gear shift. I installed all Whiteline bushings in my driveline and the last thing I did was add the rear STI cross member to my XTI, which I reinforced with some additional welds, then had is powder coated and pressed in the Whiteline differential carrier bushings. I could not believe the difference that those rear bushings in the STI cross member made vs. the FXT rear cross member! It really made a difference in shifting. I'm going to install the Torque Solutions mounts and pitch stop now in place of the group n stuff. I'm not getting much twisting movement now but I know there is some and this should take care of it.

I'm going to post the FP electrical photos in a couple minutes. I got in too late last night after a date with my gal!

Last edited by manitou; 05-12-2013 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:02 PM   #333
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
don't forget to get pics
First, route the 10 or 12 gauge power wire in black plastic flexible conduit from the positive side of the battery terminal to the fire wall and through the FW on the passenger side with the fuse block close to the battery. Route the + wire down past the ECU in the passenger foot well and over to the door and under the threshold trim and all the way back to the fuel pump area behind the rear passenger side seat (not shown).

Here is a shot showing the relay mount location and the wires to the relay connector (sorry about the blurry photo). The blue wire connected to the relay is the 12 gauge from the battery, the yellow wire is going to the fuel pump from the relay, the black is going to the FPC from the relay and the white wire is going to the chassis/ ground. The relay is tucked behind my back seat.

This photo shows the black wire spliced/ soldered & shrink wrapped to the FPC, black/ yellow wire. The yellow wire spliced to the other end of the black/ yellow wire going to the pump.

This photo shows it all wire nice and tidy tucked in and the relay location. The white ground wire connected to the rear seat bracket bolt.


I hope this helps!

Allan

Edit: The more I think about this and after looking at my wiring again, I think I am going to run a #12 ground wire off of my HKS CE gound block. I am going to do this the next time I take off my top mount and run it back along with the positive wire to the relay/ white ground wire to make a good solid electrical path for the pump. It's not much cost for the wire and it can't hurt!

Last edited by manitou; 05-12-2013 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:45 PM   #334
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Thanks a lot Allan, I ordered the STM kit on Friday. The clutch will be at ACT tomorrow, so hopefully my car will up and running by the weekend.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:15 PM   #335
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Sounds good! I'm anxious to see what you think of that monoloc clip. What about your motor, trans and pitch stop mounts from what I was asking above?
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:29 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Sounds good! I'm anxious to see what you think of that monoloc clip. What about your motor, trans and pitch stop mounts from what I was asking above?
oh I missed that post. I just have Group-n motor mounts; the pitch fork and tranny mounts are the stock ones. I need to get something better for sure.

Thanks again for the pics
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:00 PM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
oh I missed that post. I just have Group-n motor mounts; the pitch fork and tranny mounts are the stock ones. I need to get something better for sure.

Thanks again for the pics
No worries! I hope that it's clear enough?

Changing out those mounts will help shifting quite a bit. The Torque Solutions stuff is nice but pricey, the set is $495. I think my buddy Angel is going to get them for me at a slightly better price. I'll sell the group n kit and recoup some of that.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:27 PM   #338
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I just installed the Torque solutions stuff after destroying my Group-N mounts. They are VERY awesome!

It started torquing really bad in 2nd gear and I couldn't make a clean shift into 3rd. My whole shifter assembly was moving over 1/2 and inch when I was into boost.

After the Torque Solutions stuff was installed it's all better!
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:12 PM   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SW00P_G View Post
I just installed the Torque solutions stuff after destroying my Group-N mounts. They are VERY awesome!

It started torquing really bad in 2nd gear and I couldn't make a clean shift into 3rd. My whole shifter assembly was moving over 1/2 and inch when I was into boost.

After the Torque Solutions stuff was installed it's all better!
SWOOP, I forget what are running for a turbo and what are you making? I've heard nothing but good about the torque kit! The ****'s burly!!
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:15 PM   #340
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I've had 3 bad parts from them. Had to sand a tranny mount for 30 minutes so it would fit. And had a motor mount that wouldn't work cause the stud was in the wrong spot and another motor mount that stud broke off of cause it had one crappy tack weld
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:01 PM   #341
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I feel that this may be what's happening to me too. I only have 490ft/lbs but if I try to shift into 3rd over 4.5k it acts really weird and its not the syncros
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:47 PM   #342
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Here is a VD from today for the idea of my TQ. I'm running at GT35r w/.82 housing.

I'm not sure about Phatron and the bad parts, that sucks. There are 2 of us here that have broken the Group-N stuff and we both went to Torque Solutions and had great success. I've also seen the Cusco stuff before and it's pretty stout.

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Old 05-12-2013, 09:06 PM   #343
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So thats just a regular 35r

How are you making more power than all the 6266 and HTA86 turbos that have been posted lately at only 28psi?

My car will never see that power at 28psi . My turbo spools looks just like yours but my turbo is 90lb/min vs your 65lb/min turbo.

Whats your secret ?

Great job.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:09 PM   #344
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Does the pitch stop make that much of a difference? I have the Cusco motor and tranny mounts but I'm still rocking the stock pitch stop. Is there one that you guys recommend?
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:18 PM   #345
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My butt dyno sucks for suspension, but the pitchstop turns your firewall into a megaphone....at least if your run a solid one like the torque solutions or beatrush.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:26 PM   #346
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I don't have any secrets. I run a 35r and my spool sucks because I have nasty ported heads (3rd time is a charm!), Crower Stage 4 cams, Adjustable cam gears, no AVCS, Boomba Throttle Body, Cosworth Manifold, and some really nice custom made headers.

Basically I bought all the parts that everyone else said you didn't need. Most of that is because I've been around the dyno tuning part-time for over a decade. I just took what worked on other cars and bought the same kind of things for mine. Oh yeah, and I've also copied off John 1badSTI. He's got similar parts + an HTA86 and makes a good 50-75hp more than me.

I'm also happy to share anything as well. I'm not shy, just ask.

Oh yeah, the pitchstop DOES turn your firewall into a speaker. But it also make a huge difference when under load.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:35 PM   #347
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Swoop keeps it 100 at all times. No bs just straight talk. I respect that dude
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #348
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Originally Posted by SW00P_G View Post
I don't have any secrets. I run a 35r and my spool sucks because I have nasty ported heads (3rd time is a charm!), Crower Stage 4 cams, Adjustable cam gears, no AVCS, Boomba Throttle Body, Cosworth Manifold, and some really nice custom made headers.

Basically I bought all the parts that everyone else said you didn't need. Most of that is because I've been around the dyno tuning part-time for over a decade. I just took what worked on other cars and bought the same kind of things for mine. Oh yeah, and I've also copied off John 1badSTI. He's got similar parts + an HTA86 and makes a good 50-75hp more than me.

I'm also happy to share anything as well. I'm not shy, just ask.

Oh yeah, the pitchstop DOES turn your firewall into a speaker. But it also make a huge difference when under load.
Thanks for your post.

I was looking at specs of your cams and they look really similar to the BC 280 cams:
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/sub...rd/bc_0622.pdf
http://www.crower.com/camshafts/suba...ts-set-28.html

I probably will be getting the same cams on my next engine. Is your block sleeved, pinned or modified some how? What rods are you running?

What do you think will make the biggest difference on my setup?

I have had a similar approach but I focused my attention on making my car as light as possible while keeping it looking stock.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:36 PM   #349
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Well, you've got all the turbo your ever gonna need now!

My block is sleeved, no o-ring with a stepped deck. Pauter rods. I've had 2 previous non-sleeved blocks fail. One was really bad, the last one lasted about 12,000 miles before it started eating coolant through the sleeve.

I think the cams look good, I also think degreeing the cam is more important that I originally thought. LIC adjustable idlers are great, maybe offset keyway if you need it. I run BC adjustable gears as well (used to run JUN, but they got old and BC were pretty and lightweight)

1) Sleeved (if it was me), or block re-enforcement of some sort
2) Bigger cams and valvetrain, DEGREE the camshaft
3) Cosworth (or whatever large plenum shorter runner) Intake manifold W/larger throttle body

What size is your IC piping?

I also picked up a ludicrous amount of power by ditching the tiny primary Perrin headers.

Shoot me a PM again and we can talk via e-mail. I'll tell you what didn't work for me, and that was ALOT. From EJ205, EJ207, EJ257, Sleeved, etc. And I don't get mad if someone dismisses my opinion and goes a different route. As log as you post some logs and show me how to do it better! Hahaha
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:38 PM   #350
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SW00P_G View Post
Here is a VD from today for the idea of my TQ. I'm running at GT35r w/.82 housing.

I'm not sure about Phatron and the bad parts, that sucks. There are 2 of us here that have broken the Group-N stuff and we both went to Torque Solutions and had great success. I've also seen the Cusco stuff before and it's pretty stout.
That's a beautiful power band you have there! I love that smooth progressive torque curve and the power that just keeps going! That looks like a great tune and she spools very fast for the size cams you have. I'm sure the cams and your head work is why your making all of that power! The Cossie manifold and big TB don't hurt either.

Every mod that improves one or more things tends to degrade something else, always trade offs. All the torque solutions stuff I've seen is very good quality. It suck that Phatron got some bad stuff, did they take care or you? I'm sure most of these more robust mounts are pretty comparable, Beat Rush, Cusco, Perrin, Torque S. The Beat Rush stuff seems a bit pricey maybe because of the shipping costs.

Last edited by manitou; 05-13-2013 at 06:54 AM.
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