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Old 01-12-2010, 05:45 PM   #26
jibber
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Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Your ECU
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98 SF5 some mods
97 LGT

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Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that you must let the car "0" the cams (at idle) before they will do anything. Once they zero out and start showing in the logger you can usually go drive them and they will move properly if they are working correctly.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:03 PM   #27
the suicidal eggroll
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2005 STi
2012 WRX

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Just a bit more info on those AVCS bolts

There are 4 bolts in the system, 2 types.
Rear passenger head and front driver's head (behind the timing belt cover) have filters, they also have a small (1/8") bump in the center of the bolt head.
The bolts on top of the OCV are the same passenger vs driver, they have no filter, and the head of the bolt has no bump (it's flat).

That's a pretty easy way to see which bolt is which, you should have 2 bolts with a bump (on the heads), and 2 bolts without (on the OCV).

Is it possible your cam timing has jumped a tooth? I imagine that would throw a cam position CEL and probably disable, or at least cut back on the AVCS advance.


No bump:
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/st...0/DSCN0587.JPG

Bump:
http://www.thesuicidaleggroll.com/st...0/DSCN0589.JPG
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:18 PM   #28
wrxsti.l
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Location: Adelaide, Australia
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2002 ADM WRX STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18aspenSTi View Post
I logged the NPS yesterday. It read 0 while in gear and 1 when in neutral.
I'll have to double check at lunch time for you, but I am pretty sure your polarity is reversed - I'm sure it is meant to show 1 while in gear and 0 while in neutral.

Will check in 2 hours for you - unless someone else knows for sure and would like to post.

Leslie
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:50 PM   #29
18aspenSTi
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Universal City, TX
Vehicle:
2005 STi
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11.75 & NSFW,
I just tried resetting the ecu after it was up to operating temp, and letting it idle without touching anything at all for 15 min. then tried it out, no luck, pretty much the same as before...3 degrees max advance. and it still did 12-25 degree advance when warming at 1500 rpm.

Jibber,
The cams have always zeroed before I move it at all. Once it's down to idle speed the go to "0", only when warming up @1500 rpm do they advance a lot.

Eggroll,
The OCV bolts are both correct now. Will check the other 2 in a few min. I thought about jumping a tooth, but read that the car would feel down on power and not drive as well. It however still pulls very very hard, once it spools later than usual. Is it possible for the car to still run well with a jumped tooth?

WRXSTI.L,
I appreciate you checking when you can.



Thanks everyone for helping me with this dilemma.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:29 AM   #30
18aspenSTi
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2005 STi
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I replaced the oil pickup tube, but apparently that was not this issue. When I was test driving it though, I noticed that even though the rev limit is set at 7100 rpm on the map, that my peak rpm was 7360. I remember seeing the needle dip to that point from the slight overlap of throttle/clutch when shifting? Could this be an issue with the ecu that could also be affecting my avcs actuation?
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:07 AM   #31
ImportJunky
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I'm Curious on this one as well. Just rebuilt the motor. not even 100 miles in and this has been popped twice.

Guess Looking into later today :-(
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:52 AM   #32
18aspenSTi
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People have mentioned that maybe the person who built the motor forgot to remove the allen screws from the BC 272s and that is causing AVCS to not work. I had not gotten a chance to log anything before I experienced this problem, but spool is definitely taking longer now than when I bought it. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:37 AM   #33
Mr.Chow
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ever get this figured out?
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Old 11-20-2017, 06:40 AM   #34
xkalib3r
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Talk about raising a post from the dead...

Did anyone ever figure this out?

I have an 03 WRX - South African so this was the first to have the Blob face list (For us anyway) as well as VVT.

Long story short, ran bearings about 3 years ago, rebuilt forged motor with JDM V7 STI (VVT) heads.

I dynod the car about a year ago and it wasn't showing the power curves i was expecting after the build. After some digging with some tuner buddies we found that the VVT was not kicking in. ECU has unfortunately been ECUTEK'd so I can't get much info from the MAP, but the original tuner confirmed that the car was tuned with the VVT functioning.

I have tested and cleaned the OCV solenoids, replaced NPS and this past weekend replaced the cam gears with those of known working STI ones.

The car feels better after the cam replacement, but according to BTSSM, I'm still only seeing up to about 3 degrees of advance on either side. Since the cam replacement I did notice that the left and right side are almost perfectly in sync. I do still need to try a reset from cold, let the car idle for a few minutes etc etc and take it on a decent drive.

The only thing I'd still like to do is remove the ECUTEK tune and move to open source so I can confirm what has been done from a tuning perspective.

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-20-2017, 08:43 AM   #35
rexworx
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Car has to be at operating temp. say 165*F+ coolant temp. Then reset the ecu. start car and let idle for 7-10 minutes. This is so the cams can sinc to zero and the other stuff can think a bit. Then take the car for a cruise.

Coolant temp has to be up past threshold for avcs and other sensors to set on avcs cars...
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:52 AM   #36
xkalib3r
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Hey reworx

Thanks for the feedback. Apologies for my late response, I have been away.

100s on the coolant temp.

From my research I believe the following conditions need to be met:

Coolant at or above 60C

Working Neutral Position Switch
Working Air Flow Meter
Working Throttle Position Sensor
Working camshaft position sensor
Working Vehicle speed sensor.

All of the above are working and according to what I can find are perfectly within spec.

The one unknown I have at the moment is the NPS - If it should be 1 or 0 in gear. At the moment it's 1(on) in gear and 0(off) in neutral. Apparently the STI's were all inverted and after '05 (I think) all scoobies were inverted. That said, I did get a replacement part from the dealer based on my vin so assume it's correct.

I managed to pull my map a few days ago and can also confirm that the VVT has been dialed in. I was kinda hoping that all the values were some how set to 0 but alas.

Currently monitoring AVCS advance L and R - Once at operating temp, they float between 1-3 degrees.

OCV Duty Cycle - never goes higher than 9.4%

OCV current, usually at 64ma and occasionally jumps for a second to 96ma.

Based on some other info I have found online, I'm wondering if I don't have a ground or general wiring fault. Moving up to a new city in a few weeks time and will have loads more space and time to work on this. I was thinking of running new wires from the OCV/VVT valves directly to the ECU to see if there is any difference.

Last edited by xkalib3r; 12-05-2017 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:27 PM   #37
BrucesOutbackXT
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I had the same problem and code and replace the same sensor and got same result.
ended up being the oil control. $600. more dollar put the code to rest.
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Old 04-02-2021, 12:10 AM   #38
Grafdaddy
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Default Similar issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrucesOutbackXT View Post
I had the same problem and code and replace the same sensor and got same result.
ended up being the oil control. $600. more dollar put the code to rest.
Bruce how did you correct your issue ?
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Old 04-06-2021, 03:49 AM   #39
xkalib3r
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@Grafdaddy

Turned out in my case that the new NPS switch I got was working but it was inverted. If I recall correctly, there was a part number change somewhere along the line and I suspect WRX owners have been getting the wrong version of the switch in more recent years.

Managed to change this in the map and bam, VVT started working no issue. NPS now shows 1 in neutral and 0 in gear which makes sense based on the fact that's it's there to tell the ECU if it's in neutral or not.
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