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Old 10-11-2012, 07:04 PM   #1
Krazyjohnny
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Default IT's all coming together

So we have had our 2013 WRX just shy of a month now and I have been researching and collecting the parts for the audio upgrade I want to perform. I was in a quandry on the amp until today I had been torn between the Alpine PDX f4 or the Hertz HDP4. I had a weird feeling I should stop by Best Buy on the way home today and lo and behold they had an Alpine MRX V60 on the shelf for 199.90. That pretty much sealed the deal on that part. Class D amp with a less then 1% THD and the power I was looking for. So I now have the DynaMat in hand, the the wiring for the back of the head unit from ae64, the 10" Nakamichi sub in hand, and the Audio integrations perfect fit sub box on the way. All I need is the install cables for the amp and a front set of components.

So far I have spent:
$238.00 for the amp and 2 yr insurance on it
$38.00 for the ae64 harness
$150.00 for the Dynamat 5 door kit
$359.00 for the Audio Integrations sub enclosure
had the sub so that saved me about $200
I am guessing I will spend another $100 on amp install cables and stuff
and then front components are probably going to hurt a bit once I make a decision. Torn between Hybrid Audio Clarus and possibly Rainbows once I get some pricing.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
Shortpersonbk
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Subbed would like to find out how it turns out. Lets say i had like $500 towards audio and i already have a jvc deck touch screen nav ect in a 2012 sti...what would you suggest?
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:47 PM   #3
Krazyjohnny
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I would suggest shopping and listening to different speakers to see what sounds the best to you. You may be surprised what you end up liking the best. I would try an amp and sub first and run the rears off of the head unit power. A sub and a nice enclosure will clean out your $500 real easy. Then you will have another $300-$400 in amp and wiring kit. If you decide to add new fronts you can spend another $150 to $600 easy depending on what you want. Now throw in some sound deadener at another $150.

See how this can spiral?
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:28 AM   #4
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Do you already have the dynamat? There are many cheaper and equal quality or better alternatives, just do a search.

If you use welding cable for your power and ground and get your other cables from knukonceptz.com you probably won't spend $100. Remember to put an in line fuse holder on your power cable run, even if your amps have a built in fuse. And while many people don't consider it necessary anymore (myself included) I run the power/ground cables on the opposite side of the car of the Signal cables. And if they have to cross do it at a 90 degree angle.

Do you have a head unit? Amp to run thee front stage?

The rainbows are overpriced IMO, not what I would buy. They are not well known but check out Canton components
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:46 PM   #5
Krazyjohnny
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Clay,

Thank you for the info. Best I can tell Canton is no longer in the car audio business. I am not impressed with the stuff I have listened to at Car Toys. I should back up just a bit the $1100 Focal component set they had sounded very nice. I think I have been spoiled by my Genelec home theater stuff.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:40 AM   #6
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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That Nak sub isnt going to work in the AI enclosure very well, hate to say...

Its likely a large box woofer, being the age that it is (dates you a bit too, who knows Nak anymore?)
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:17 PM   #7
teiva-boy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
who knows Nak anymore?)
I do! Love their headunits, and miss my old CD45z
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:43 PM   #8
everynameistaken
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kewl projekt
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:56 PM   #9
Krazyjohnny
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Sub will work in sealed enclosure from .65-.75 cuft.
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:59 PM   #10
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Got amp and wiring installed today. Need the sub enclosure to get here so I can really tell what I have.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:03 AM   #11
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So here is how things played out yesterday....

Ran all 4 gauge power and ground wire. Power came in down the passenger side through the main harness boot on the firewall and followed said harness over tot the battery side of the engine compartment. Ground was attached to floor stiffener brace bolt.

Ran 12 ga speaker wire to rear location for the sub box form Audio Integrations.

Soldered in Axxess line out converter to the 20 pin harness from ae64 and soldered in returning 16 ga wire from amp back to front speaker leads going out to the speakers.

Ran switched power, RCA inputs, and out bound speaker cables under center console to under passenger seat.

Installed Alpine RUX KNOB in center console compartmentand ran the "phone cable" out to the amp through the bottom.

I am using an Alpine MRX V60 5 channel amp. I have one pair (2 channel) of RCA inputs and have the front speakers bridged across the 4 speaker channels and the sub running on the sub outputs.

I have not added the Dyna Mat to the doors yet, but that is the next thing to do. Now that the factory speakers have some power to them they really make the doors buzz. You can also see how weak they really are. Their clarity is best whne connected to the factory head unit. Amplifying them only amplified their weekness. BTW they also look almost identical to the Kicker components.

BTW to the previous poster about my old Nak sub and it dating me..... That makes sense, since I am a geologist and my reference scale of time is much longer than most. How about some old Klipsch Forte's and Corner Horns. If they would fit I would try to stuff those old dinosaurs in there.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #12
Krazyjohnny
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Got the front doors DynaMat installed. The factory speakers in the front door are some sort of silver woven cone with a foam surround and a tweeter in the middle (like a coax) and then also a tweeter in the sail panel. I lined the outer skin and the inner skin. I doubled up behind the speaker. I was amazed at what a difference it made. I still need to do they area in the hatch and the rear doors. The deadener really helps make the most out of what you have.

The factory speaker is labeled as 20 watts nominal and 40 watts peak. I now know why the distort on the amp so quickly.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:54 PM   #13
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The most I've every seen in a car and it was absolutely crazy that he was able to do it was Earl Zausmer's BMW. He dismantled a pair of B & W's and put them in his car powered by Milbert tube amps. It was one of the best sounding and technical cars in history….it's legendary.

http://milbert.com/autos/earl

As for as the the Klipsch horns, I don't see it happening

I've seen those AUdio Integration sub boxes (used them in one of my cars) and you will probably need to add some weight to it by lining it with non hardening modeling clay.

I can't find the specs on that sub, (the Q values) do you have them? And the internal volume of the box? Because Aaron has a point. That sub already has a naturally high RF (less than ideal but it's fine) but cramming it in a small box unless it was truly meant to work in a very small enclosure will make it worse. If anything with that sub I would put it in a bit of an oversized box.

As far as your doors buzzing. time to deaden my friend.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:22 AM   #14
phenryiv1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claythrow View Post
The most I've every seen in a car and it was absolutely crazy that he was able to do it was Earl Zausmer's BMW. He dismantled a pair of B & W's and put them in his car powered by Milbert tube amps. It was one of the best sounding and technical cars in history….it's legendary.

http://milbert.com/autos/earl
I remember reading about that car when I was into audio in my teens. You have to love the old 1990's-staple tri-star wheels!
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