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Old 03-21-2017, 02:27 PM   #101
svynx
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Since I'm using the 2002 wrx heads and intake manifold, I'm sticking with the stock system. The extra block vent is capped off.
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Old 03-22-2017, 01:56 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svynx View Post
Since I'm using the 2002 wrx heads and intake manifold, I'm sticking with the stock system. The extra block vent is capped off.
Thanks, my build will be very similar to yours and that is my plan also. I might add a catch can later, TBD. I'd like to stay as close to stock as possible since I'll have to smog this car in SoCal.

Is this what was recommended by your engine builder or your own reasoning? I've heard different things from different people but your plan seems to be the most common.
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:00 PM   #103
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Wow***128563; Me likey
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:11 PM   #104
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Thanks, my build will be very similar to yours and that is my plan also. I might add a catch can later, TBD. I'd like to stay as close to stock as possible since I'll have to smog this car in SoCal.

Is this what was recommended by your engine builder or your own reasoning? I've heard different things from different people but your plan seems to be the most common.
I'm running the Grimmspeed AOS. Have been for years. No issues with it as of yet. I've heard rumors that it is a little finicky at higher boost levels, but who knows.

I did mention this to my builder at one point when I asked if capping the one breather port was ok. He said not to worry about it as its main design was to aid in the AVCS, which I don't have. He said to mimic what the 2.0 block would be like, so I did.

And yes, it seems that most of us hybrid guys who don't have the variable valve stuff cap the one breather port.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:34 AM   #105
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Small update. The engine is coming out this weekend. I don't know if I'll tear into it at all, or just let Andrewtech do it. Then, on April 14th (thankfully my work has that day off) I'll drive down to them and drop the engine off. While they have things apart..again...I'll have them install a few new items.
- APR headbolts: I don't think I really need them, but it's one of those "I'm in there already" things.
- shimless buckets: If I had done this in the first place, I might not be in the position I'm in now.
- new valves: this is undecided as of yet. Will be determined by the shop if they should be replaced.
- oil dipstick and tube: I have an STi oilpan, but a WRX tube/stick. Functions correctly, but full/low spots are wrong. I don't want to have to guess when changing oil. Do it right.
- TGV deletes: I'll let Andrewtech decide what to do there. Either delete factory, or buy aftermarket (IAG).
- 3mm phenolic IM spacers: again, don't really need them, but...
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:22 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by svynx View Post
Small update. The engine is coming out this weekend. I don't know if I'll tear into it at all, or just let Andrewtech do it. Then, on April 14th (thankfully my work has that day off) I'll drive down to them and drop the engine off. While they have things apart..again...I'll have them install a few new items.
- APR headbolts: I don't think I really need them, but it's one of those "I'm in there already" things.
- shimless buckets: If I had done this in the first place, I might not be in the position I'm in now.
- new valves: this is undecided as of yet. Will be determined by the shop if they should be replaced.
- oil dipstick and tube: I have an STi oilpan, but a WRX tube/stick. Functions correctly, but full/low spots are wrong. I don't want to have to guess when changing oil. Do it right.
- TGV deletes: I'll let Andrewtech decide what to do there. Either delete factory, or buy aftermarket (IAG).
- 3mm phenolic IM spacers: again, don't really need them, but...


Why do you say the shimless buckets would've changed that? Curious because I have shim style buckets in my engine. I do plan to change them but I can't flip the $350 for buckets right now.
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Old 04-02-2017, 02:51 PM   #107
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Can't believe I missed this update. Hope everything turns out with the block. I really can't wait to see how this pans out on the dyno. fingers and toes still crossed for you brother.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:02 AM   #108
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Why do you say the shimless buckets would've changed that? Curious because I have shim style buckets in my engine. I do plan to change them but I can't flip the $350 for buckets right now.
I suspect the cause of the leaking valves would be on me as I adjusted valve lash. If the shop had done the bucket swap, it would have been good to go. If it's not lash, and something like the seat of the valve, then they would have seen that when they did the buckets.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:03 AM   #109
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Can't believe I missed this update. Hope everything turns out with the block. I really can't wait to see how this pans out on the dyno. fingers and toes still crossed for you brother.
Appreciate it.
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Old 04-03-2017, 08:59 AM   #110
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I suspect the cause of the leaking valves would be on me as I adjusted valve lash. If the shop had done the bucket swap, it would have been good to go. If it's not lash, and something like the seat of the valve, then they would have seen that when they did the buckets.
Correct me if I'm wrong but if you paid the machine shop for a valve job the valves should be seated? Even if they didn't set valve lash. But if you set the lash too tight and burnt a valve then yeah that might be on you (regardless of buckets). Maybe you'll get lucky and the lash was too tight and its not too late to be adjusted.

I just had an issue with my engine and valve lash. I paid the machine shop to set the valve lash and when I checked the lash (after torquing to heads) they were way off. Intakes as tight as .005 some exhaust as tight as .007 and some loose as .016. Have you checked the lash after torquing the heads on?
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:08 AM   #111
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Correct me if I'm wrong but if you paid the machine shop for a valve job the valves should be seated? Even if they didn't set valve lash. But if you set the lash too tight and burnt a valve then yeah that might be on you (regardless of buckets). Maybe you'll get lucky and the lash was too tight and its not too late to be adjusted.

I just had an issue with my engine and valve lash. I paid the machine shop to set the valve lash and when I checked the lash (after torquing to heads) they were way off. Intakes as tight as .005 some exhaust as tight as .007 and some loose as .016. Have you checked the lash after torquing the heads on?
My shop built the short block. Then bolted the heads and measured the lash. They didn't have the shims for "shim over bucket" style". That wasn't really the issue as I asked them to do what they could to keep costs down, and doing my own measurements for lash was part of it. They did measure what things were at that point, and I then did the math to get what was needed.
We'll see what happens once they look at things. I pulled the drivers side valve cover off last night and saw a little oil pooled on one valve. I didn't look any further at that point.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:18 AM   #112
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My shop built the short block. Then bolted the heads and measured the lash. They didn't have the shims for "shim over bucket" style". That wasn't really the issue as I asked them to do what they could to keep costs down, and doing my own measurements for lash was part of it. They did measure what things were at that point, and I then did the math to get what was needed.
We'll see what happens once they look at things. I pulled the drivers side valve cover off last night and saw a little oil pooled on one valve. I didn't look any further at that point.
Ah I see. That could very well be the issue. If there's one thing I've learned it's to double check as much stuff as you can. A set of feeler gauges are cheap and you can pick up a micrometer from horrible freight that will work for measuring the buckets. The lash may have tightened up some after you torqued the heads on.

Adjusting the valve lash is a huge pain unless you're just going to order new buckets for everything. Even if you don't plan to do it at this point you should at least measure the lash so you know what it is for your own peace of mind before you sent the engine out.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:22 AM   #113
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Ah I see. That could very well be the issue. If there's one thing I've learned it's to double check as much stuff as you can. A set of feeler gauges are cheap and you can pick up a micrometer from horrible freight that will work for measuring the buckets. The lash may have tightened up some after you torqued the heads on.

Adjusting the valve lash is a huge pain unless you're just going to order new buckets for everything. Even if you don't plan to do it at this point you should at least measure the lash so you know what it is for your own peace of mind before you sent the engine out.
Agreed. This time around, the shop will be doing the work. Not only will it be right, but it will also have a warranty that comes with it. I'll pay a little bit more for that. I'm just looking forward to seeing the car back on the road. It's been a year now.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:24 AM   #114
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Agreed. This time around, the shop will be doing the work. Not only will it be right, but it will also have a warranty that comes with it. I'll pay a little bit more for that. I'm just looking forward to seeing the car back on the road. It's been a year now.
Yep. You never think it's going to take as long as it does. I have my fingers crossed you got lucky enough to only need the lash adjusted or something else minor like that!
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:21 AM   #115
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UPDATE:
Good news: The block is fine. They took the heads off and looked at the cylinder walls. No issues at all, which means they don't have to split the case or replace any of the seals/bearings.
Bad news: The heads are ruined. Cam caps are wrong. Lash is completely incorrect (was told that some of them would never have been correct, even with the largest/smallest shim). All valves bent. None of the valves were seated properly.

So, I had two options. First was to get a set of new or used heads, new valves, and transfer my parts over. Second option was to machine my heads for +1mm valves, new valves, and reinstall the other parts. Cost difference between the two: about $50. I went with the larger valves. I should know how things are progressing in a few days.
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:07 AM   #116
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****ing boss!!!!!
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Old 04-18-2017, 10:20 AM   #117
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This is turning into a much larger budget than I wanted, over a much larger time period, but with all the delays I've had, along with the issues, the final price has gone up. But, in the end, it will be a much better build with a higher power potential. If in a few years I decide to bump up again, I should only have to replace the turbo, and possibly the fuel pump. Everything else should be good to use again.
I can say though that if all these issues didn't happen, the final price would have been very reasonable.
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:26 AM   #118
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Items to add to the list, which will be made in full once the engine is reinstalled and started since I suspect I'm going to change things a little using parts I already have:
- +1mm Supertech intake and exhaust valves
- ported and polished heads (if any of you remember Unabombers heads that he got...yeah...same port job)
- 11mm ARP headstuds
- shimless bucket upgrade
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:12 AM   #119
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Just a quick update. Block is almost ready for pickup.





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Old 04-27-2017, 11:18 AM   #120
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Sorry if I missed it but are you using hybrid pistons?
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:29 AM   #121
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Sorry if I missed it but are you using hybrid pistons?
Yes, the JE hybrid pistons with the FSR skirts.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:53 AM   #122
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Good news on the heasds, though I've heard +1mm valves aren't worth it. Did they machine for larger seats or use the stock size? Maybe that's the difference.

Will be interesting to see what you put down.

Which head gaskets/thickness are you using?
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:57 AM   #123
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Good news on the heasds, though I've heard +1mm valves aren't worth it. Did they machine for larger seats or use the stock size? Maybe that's the difference.

Will be interesting to see what you put down.

Which head gaskets/thickness are you using?
From my understanding, they machined for the larger seats. The previous shop that did work to these heads did not do a proper job. None of the valves were seated correctly, which made this job a requirement. Putting new stock sized valves in would not have solved the problem.

Power: you and me both. Before all this head work, we guessed around 350whp, with 375tq. Now...who knows.

As to which thickness head gaskets, no idea. I'll let the shop deal with that.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:14 PM   #124
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Awesome I'm excited to see how it does. I chambered my last hybrid and I'm planning on doing another but haven't decided what route to go on my heads yet
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:36 PM   #125
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Awesome I'm excited to see how it does. I chambered my last hybrid and I'm planning on doing another but haven't decided what route to go on my heads yet
I considered doing the same, but since I was putting forged pistons in, the JE hybrids killed two birds with one stone.
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