Dyno Tune: Ej257, G30-660, Link ECU, Flex Fuel

[Nick Boxler]

Event: Dyno tune
Location: Divulge Motorsports. Englewood, CO
Ambient Temp: ~85-90F
Elevation: 5280 ft
Weather: sunny

Car: 2001 2.5RS
Tuner: Steve
Dyno Info: Dyno Dynamics
Transmission: 6spd stock gearset
Gear: 4th
Peak HP at RPM: 91- 404hp @ 6200, E98 - 454hp @ 6100 RPM
Peak Torque at RPM: 91- 351 ft/lbs @ 5600 RPM, E98 - 412 ft/lbs @ 5000 RPM
Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same dyno: Unsure
Target Boost: 21 PSI
Target AFR: Not positive
Fuel: 91/E98
Engine/Power Modifications: Weisco pistons, Eagle rods, ARP OEM size headstuds, Garrett G30-660 .61 A/R, Tial 38mm EWG, FIC 1200cc injectors, FMIC, reversed intake manifold, custom turbo manifold, Link G4x Plug and Play ECU, etc. supporting mods.
Driveline Modifications: 3" aluminum driveshaft, ZF Design carbon metallic clutch, poly bushings, solid engine/trans mounts.

This setup has some room to grow if I go with a bigger fuel setup. The motor was built a long time ago, and I'm not sure how long it will last. I limited myself to 450 to save the motor.

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[Black90tsiawd]

I have The Boost Labs equivalent of a g30-660. So 54mm compressor and 55mm turbine. With a .83 housing power starts dropping off after 6500 and nose dives after 6700. Even with built heads, cams and port work. I can hit 30 psi in 4th by 4k rpms. A larger exhaust housing might be something to consider. You probably wouldn't lose much for spool and would gain a longer powerband and definitely the ability to make more power when you decide you want to go for it. I managed 475/420 @ 23-24 psi on 93 oct and 543/503 @ 27 psi on e65.

But i bet that moves really well in a car that weighs several hundred lbs less than a gr wagon. How do you like the link ecu? My tuner is pushing me that way for when i upgrade turbos and go for more power. I don't know anyone that has tried one yet locally.

[Nick Boxler]

Originally Posted by Black90tsiawd

I have The Boost Labs equivalent of a g30-660. So 54mm compressor and 55mm turbine. With a .83 housing power starts dropping off after 6500 and nose dives after 6700. Even with built heads, cams and port work. I can hit 30 psi in 4th by 4k rpms. A larger exhaust housing might be something to consider. You probably wouldn't lose much for spool and would gain a longer powerband and definitely the ability to make more power when you decide you want to go for it. I managed 475/420 @ 23-24 psi on 93 oct and 543/503 @ 27 psi on e65.

But i bet that moves really well in a car that weighs several hundred lbs less than a gr wagon. How do you like the link ecu? My tuner is pushing me that way for when i upgrade turbos and go for more power. I don't know anyone that has tried one yet locally.

It's pretty fun on the street, had a few issues to figure out before I can really put some seat time in to see how it's driveability is. But it is pretty quick! I honestly feel like it could make some more power but the motor is the limiting factor.

I definitely will consider swapping the hot side, so long as the flanges stay kind of the same. I can cut off and weld another flange but it'd be nice not to.

The Link is awesome, after years of using Romraider, it's so nice being able to change anything and everything you want. I added an expansion harness for later if I want to add any temp/pressure sensors. It's expensive but in my opinion, worth it. Being able to log AFR's, set safety limits, tune on the fly, add sensors are all great benefits to me. One thing I wish I did was look into the Link CAN gauge instead of running an AEM UEGO. The plug and play G4x doesn't have an integrated wideband but I think there's a way to change some I/O's for a wideband and use the CAN gauge for anything else you want to keep an eye on.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Very nice.

Kudos sir.

[Nick Boxler]

Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g

Very nice.

Kudos sir.

Thanks! I'm quite proud of my tucked radiator setup. Took a lot of measuring and fabrication but it's something I'm very happy with!

[Black90tsiawd]

Originally Posted by Nick Boxler

It's pretty fun on the street, had a few issues to figure out before I can really put some seat time in to see how it's driveability is. But it is pretty quick! I honestly feel like it could make some more power but the motor is the limiting factor.

I definitely will consider swapping the hot side, so long as the flanges stay kind of the same. I can cut off and weld another flange but it'd be nice not to.

The Link is awesome, after years of using Romraider, it's so nice being able to change anything and everything you want. I added an expansion harness for later if I want to add any temp/pressure sensors. It's expensive but in my opinion, worth it. Being able to log AFR's, set safety limits, tune on the fly, add sensors are all great benefits to me. One thing I wish I did was look into the Link CAN gauge instead of running an AEM UEGO. The plug and play G4x doesn't have an integrated wideband but I think there's a way to change some I/O's for a wideband and use the CAN gauge for anything else you want to keep an eye on.

Garrett makes both a .83 and a 1.01 AR housing. From the outside everything is identical. It's just the volume of the volute inside the housing that's larger.

I have an AEM failsafe wbo2 i bought an iWire harness for so that i can display/log it on my AP. Being able to see and log it are rather helpful for both me and my tuner. I would want to keep that functionality with whatever stand alone i went with. I'm sure it offers launch control. But what about things like rolling anti lag or fail safes for when it sees a lean or an over boost condition? Did you do the digital dash by chance? Do all factory things still work as they should? I've heard about cruise control not working on some ecus.

[PotatoFlakeSTi]

Not apples to apples, but at this altitude my g30-900 .83ar was having 3:1+ backpressure at 30psi & 7500rpm. Definitely go bigger housing.

[Nick Boxler]

Originally Posted by Black90tsiawd

Garrett makes both a .83 and a 1.01 AR housing. From the outside everything is identical. It's just the volume of the volute inside the housing that's larger.

I have an AEM failsafe wbo2 i bought an iWire harness for so that i can display/log it on my AP. Being able to see and log it are rather helpful for both me and my tuner. I would want to keep that functionality with whatever stand alone i went with. I'm sure it offers launch control. But what about things like rolling anti lag or fail safes for when it sees a lean or an over boost condition? Did you do the digital dash by chance? Do all factory things still work as they should? I've heard about cruise control not working on some ecus.

Good to know, sounds like that might be my next move... Probably enjoy the car as-is until winter.

So the other factor is I didn't, nor will I in the future, use an AP. All the emissions stuff they restrict you from changing is enough for me to want a standalone. Plus not having to pay for the Accesstuner or whatever, and being able to unlock the ECU yourself and make changes is way worth it.

There are conditional launch control modes, either using the clutch switch or speed. I dug into the regular launch control a bit but not much. My tuner said anything using the OEM clutch switch can be tricky, as you have to really make sure it's sensing the clutch pedal is to the floor, reliably.

I am on the OEM dash, everything integrates with the Link, including the CEL! I cannot speak to cruise control working, as I don't have any of the switches. This is definitely not a car I'd want to take somewhere long enough to need CC

You can set up several fail safes, including AFR, fuel pressure, MAP, oil pressure, etc. Something I didn't figure out yet is the fuel pressure safety, but it's something I've heard is more likely to save your motor if you experience fuel slosh or your pump is dying and prevent leaning out quicker than the AFR safety limit.

Originally Posted by PotatoFlakeSTi

Not apples to apples, but at this altitude my g30-900 .83ar was having 3:1+ backpressure at 30psi & 7500rpm. Definitely go bigger housing.

I think my next step is going to be wiring in an exhaust pressure sensor for exactly this reason. Maybe a turbine speed sensor too, to make sure it's not overspinning. My plan was to build this as a fun street car with good drivability so I was trying to not go too big to avoid lag. I'm sure I'll be consulting my tuner on that decision next. Thanks for the heads up though!