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Old 12-31-2017, 10:44 PM   #1351
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothingy2k1 View Post
2. My radio have static as soon as the car is on. I read on Post #875, that i might need to connect Metra 40-LX11 to Metra 70-1761's blue wire. But currently I have 5 blue/blue white wires connected together (HU/70-1761/40-LX11/amp/Bypass).
You've misunderstood what I wrote in that post (#875).

What I said was that you do not use the blue wire on the 40-LX11 antenna adapter. Your car does not have a corresponding wire on the factory antenna plug.

Instead, you must use the blue wire on your 70-1761. That sends power to your car's RF antenna booster amplifier. You need to connect that to something that provides no less than 12.0 Volts.

Since you've connected your new HU's blue/white amp trigger line to so many things, you'll probably find that it's not supplying a full 12V. Previous Pioneer models were notoriously bad about that. Subaru's antenna booster amps are bad about not functioning properly with less than 12V.

Also, some parking brake bypass devices say they won't work if you try to connect the HU's blue/white amp trigger lead to both the bypass device and to the car's antenna booster amp.

So the answer is to connect the blue wire on the 70-1761 over to the red wire on the 70-1761 (in addition to the red wire to your HU and whichever wire goes to the Maestro). This will insure that your car's booster amp gets 12.0V or more.

Leave the HU's blue/white amp trigger lead connected to your micro bypass device and the KTP-445U's trigger input.

Sorry, can't help you with the Maestro issue. But I'm guessing that you've connected something wrong, or else the module is defective.
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:21 AM   #1352
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Originally Posted by Nothingy2k1 View Post
1. Grounded the original set up to the chassis behind the HU. Still static.

2. Separated the amp and tried it again. Still static.

3. Separated amp and maestro wires and tried again. Still no luck.

4. Seperated bypass, amp, maestro and tired again. Still the same.

The static was low, only loud because of the amp setting was middle volume. Could this be the fault of headunits?

And i really don't know what to do with maestro, since i wired per PhD's wiring list and it still blinking red.
if my RR is flashing red two times:

Check the serial number of the radio you are installing, and the model number.

plug the data to data cable into the correct BLACK ports, one on the RR and one on the radio

Last edited by phd12v; 01-02-2018 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 01-02-2018, 10:00 PM   #1353
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Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
if my RR is flashing red two times:

Check the serial number of the radio you are installing, and the model number.

plug the data to data cable into the correct BLACK ports, one on the RR and one on the radio


Omg, I totally forgot about the data to data cable. Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2018, 10:08 PM   #1354
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Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
You've misunderstood what I wrote in that post (#875).



What I said was that you do not use the blue wire on the 40-LX11 antenna adapter. Your car does not have a corresponding wire on the factory antenna plug.



Instead, you must use the blue wire on your 70-1761. That sends power to your car's RF antenna booster amplifier. You need to connect that to something that provides no less than 12.0 Volts.



Since you've connected your new HU's blue/white amp trigger line to so many things, you'll probably find that it's not supplying a full 12V. Previous Pioneer models were notoriously bad about that. Subaru's antenna booster amps are bad about not functioning properly with less than 12V.



Also, some parking brake bypass devices say they won't work if you try to connect the HU's blue/white amp trigger lead to both the bypass device and to the car's antenna booster amp.



So the answer is to connect the blue wire on the 70-1761 over to the red wire on the 70-1761 (in addition to the red wire to your HU and whichever wire goes to the Maestro). This will insure that your car's booster amp gets 12.0V or more.



Leave the HU's blue/white amp trigger lead connected to your micro bypass device and the KTP-445U's trigger input.



Sorry, can't help you with the Maestro issue. But I'm guessing that you've connected something wrong, or else the module is defective.


Thanks SVX, I will try this again over the weekend.

I followed a youtube video that is posted by someone from this thread who have the exact same set up as me. He connected 5 blue/blue white wires together as well. But i guess its a hit or miss for that 12v.
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Old 01-03-2018, 03:01 PM   #1355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nothingy2k1 View Post
1. Grounded the original set up to the chassis behind the HU. Still static.

2. Separated the amp and tried it again. Still static.

3. Separated amp and maestro wires and tried again. Still no luck.

4. Seperated bypass, amp, maestro and tired again. Still the same.

The static was low, only loud because of the amp setting was middle volume. Could this be the fault of headunits?

And i really don’t know what to do with maestro, since i wired per PhD’s wiring list and it still blinking red.
Have you checked the gain settings on the amp and HU? Pioneer HU I have has a setting called'' Source level adjuster '' and as I raise it to max , it makes a little hiss sound. So I try to keep all my sound boosters at normal levels.
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:37 PM   #1356
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Originally Posted by calledman View Post
Have you checked the gain settings on the amp and HU? Pioneer HU I have has a setting called'' Source level adjuster '' and as I raise it to max , it makes a little hiss sound. So I try to keep all my sound boosters at normal levels.
I checked, nothing to do with source level adjuster. Noise is the same level at min or max. Gain Level for the amp is currently at middle and the noise is already quite loud, at min. its "acceptable" since the road noise covers it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
if my RR is flashing red two times:

Check the serial number of the radio you are installing, and the model number.

plug the data to data cable into the correct BLACK ports, one on the RR and one on the radio
Maestro is working now, I just forgot to plug the data cable, Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
So the answer is to connect the blue wire on the 70-1761 over to the red wire on the 70-1761 (in addition to the red wire to your HU and whichever wire goes to the Maestro). This will insure that your car's booster amp gets 12.0V or more.

Leave the HU's blue/white amp trigger lead connected to your micro bypass device and the KTP-445U's trigger input.
I still get
  1. 1) Static/hisss sound remains after connecting blue wire to red wire on 70-1761.
  2. 2) Don't have any HD radio signal. I had signal on my very very first wiring setup, but its gone after I separate wires trying to figure out the static noise. I am pretty sure my current set up is the same as the first time beside the 1761 blue to red, and disconnected the 40-Lx11 blue wire. I unplugged the radio side of 40-Lx11 and Metra Yellow rca and Maestro while the radio is on, and the static remains.
  3. 3) Dimmer dial does't dim the New radio


Here is what I followed on post #623

Quote:
Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
28 pin METRA harness:

Green/Violet wire on metra in pin 2 ----> REVERSE WIRE INPUT on new radio
Yellow wire on Metra in pin 11 ----> GRAY/YELLOW WIRE in 18 pin Maestro harness pin 14
(disconnected for bypass green) Light green wire on metra in pin 15 -----> EBRAKE WIRE INPUT on new radio
(disconnected no Nav) Blue/Red wire on metra in pin 17 -----> VSS WIRE INPUT on new radio if applicable[/s]
(connected w/ amp ground, Bypass Ground, Maestro 3 pin ground, 1761 ground) Black wire on metra in pin 20 -----> GROUND WIRE on new radio harness
Green/Red wire on metra pin 21----> PURPLE/RED SW1 WIRE in Maestro 18 pin harness
Black/Green wire on Metra pin 22 ----> PINK/RED SW2 WIRE in Maestro 18 pin harness
Black wire on metra pin 23 (cut away from other black wires)----->BLACK/WHITE SW FEED wire in Maestro 18 pin harness

MAESTRO RR STAND ALONE WIRING:

(Connected w/ Amp Constant) on Maestro 3 pin ----------> YELLOW WIRE on new radio, same wire color in 1761 harness
(6 grounds connected together as above) Black on Maestro 3 pin -----------> BLACK WIRE on new radio, same wire color in 1761 harness
(Connected w/ Blue in 1761) Gray/Red on Maestro 18 pin -----> RED WIRE on new radio, same wire color in 1761 harness

****RED WIRE IS LEFT OVER IN THE 3 PIN (that was on purpose, dont use it) ****


*(Orange/white in 1761 ---> Orange/white in New radio)
*(Blue/white in New radio ---> Blue in Bypass, Blue/white in Amp input)
*(blue/white on Amp output is disconnected)



That is really all you need minus the 70-1761 which is just standard wiring colors for the radio harness, so match those up color to color.
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Old 01-10-2018, 05:32 PM   #1357
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Hi all,

I have been researching trying to install a new HU in my 2016 WRX with HK 7" NAV. Trying to figure out what the appropriate harnesses are is a difficult task with this entire thread. Emailed SVXdc but haven't heard back, its been 2+ weeks so I imagine he is pretty busy. I have a few Metra harnesses but can't get anything to work. Has anyone done a direct replacement and can anyone let me know what you have used? Currently have an ASWC-1 as well fyi.
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:47 AM   #1358
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Originally Posted by certainphate View Post
Hi all,

I have been researching trying to install a new HU in my 2016 WRX with HK 7" NAV. Trying to figure out what the appropriate harnesses are is a difficult task with this entire thread. Emailed SVXdc but haven't heard back, its been 2+ weeks so I imagine he is pretty busy. I have a few Metra harnesses but can't get anything to work. Has anyone done a direct replacement and can anyone let me know what you have used? Currently have an ASWC-1 as well fyi.
if you have a HK premium sound system, you should replace the amplifier as well. Just replacing the HU will result in a very quiet systemas the amp and HU communicate in codes and aftermarket HUs dont know that code yet.
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Old 01-11-2018, 11:10 AM   #1359
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Originally Posted by calledman View Post
if you have a HK premium sound system, you should replace the amplifier as well. Just replacing the HU will result in a very quiet systemas the amp and HU communicate in codes and aftermarket HUs dont know that code yet.
sounds unfortunate. Any idea if there are guides online?
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Old 01-15-2018, 02:32 PM   #1360
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Default Microbypass

Hey,
So a few months ago I installed a Pioneer AVH-2300NEX in my 17 WRX and I used a microbypass to deal with the parking brake wire. Ever since I installed it my parking brake light is always on whenever the head unit is on and a source is on. Does anyone know a way to fix this?

Last edited by Jbasspro; 01-15-2018 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 01-15-2018, 03:47 PM   #1361
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because you hooked it up to the trigger in the 28 pin connector, when you should not be
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:18 AM   #1362
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Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
because you hooked it up to the trigger in the 28 pin connector, when you should not be
Thanks, that was my mistake must not have been thinking it completely through.
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:47 PM   #1363
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Not sure if this has been asked, but do you put back the two driver / glove side 10mm bolts after installing an aftermarket HU or do you just retain the top two bolts?
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:04 AM   #1364
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Originally Posted by knstyl View Post
Not sure if this has been asked, but do you put back the two driver / glove side 10mm bolts after installing an aftermarket HU or do you just retain the top two bolts?
depends on the kit your using actually and no i didnt put those two back in on mine.
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Old 01-25-2018, 02:39 PM   #1365
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After reading so many posts on this topic while I'm trying to install my new Pioneer AVH-x391BHS, I've discovered that my front RCA inputs are bad. Speakers work great plugged into the rear but sound is almost non-existent when plugged into the front. So disappointing as I was almost finished with my wiring. Thanks for the great tips and feedback to everyone up to this point.
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Old 01-25-2018, 02:55 PM   #1366
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depends on the kit your using actually and no i didnt put those two back in on mine.

I have a 4200NEX, and have the Scosche SU2031B and Maestro RR on order. I'm actually waiting on that new HRN-RR-SU2 harness!

Good to hear. I wouldn't want to deal with that again after install. Is it a secure fit without the two bolts?
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:30 PM   #1367
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Originally Posted by Figuritout View Post
I haven't read EVERY post in this thread but I haven't seen that anyone has been able to retain their OEM microphone. I couldn't stand the mic that came with my 4200NEX so this evening I got the OEM mic input into it.

... First, on the factory 22 pin, you want to jump pins 4&11. This will take your six volt camera power and use it power the mic. Both camera and mic power are on full time, or rather on with the ignition, in the OEM system, and Maestro is in turn powering the camera full time, so it will power the mic just like it originally was.

Another way to accomplish this, and the way I wish I had done it, is to repin the Metra 22 pin harness. The Metra harness is fairly low quality, and with a firm pull you can pull out an unused pin, such as speed sense, and repin it in position 4, then just connect it along with the pin 21 wire to the grey yellow wire from the Maestro.

Now, still using the diagram from post 607, you need the wires in pins 5&19. You can cut them off the harness, but leave plenty of wire on the connector side in case you need them again. The better way is to strip the insulation without cutting the wire. You can get a good half inch or so exposed without breaking any stands if you have good automatic wire strippers.

Either way, get those wires and you'll connect them to the male end of your aftermarket mic cord, so you can plug it into the HU. Cut the male end off about a foot back to leave plenty of room for mistakes. Strip off about 1-1.5" of the outer jacket. You'll find uninsulated copper strands shielding an insulated core. Peel back the shielding away from the center conductor and twist them together. Now strip the center conductor.

I should mention, automatic wire strippers will not work well on the mic cord. They'll year the shield strands. Use a stripper with different size holes for different wire gauges.

Now you've got two bare wires on your mic plug. The uninsulated copper you twisted together is the ground, and the insulated center were wire is your +signal.

+Signal gets soldered to white/black pin 5, and ground gets soldered to pink/red pin 19. It's tight to work with, but make sure that no stray ground strand will make contact with the +signal wire.
I've been thinking about this...

If I were Subaru, and working with Clarion, HK, Fujitsu, others, I don't think I'd want a complicated amplifier control. I'd go for something relatively simple and cheap for everyone.

I think 'Mic Detect' may be better translated as 'Mic Gain Control', and is probably a 0-5vdc signal. I'm going to guess that the HU has a blocking capacitor between the center pin and the input buffer mosfet, and 5vdc positive supply on the mic side of the blocking cap. I'd bet ground wire is ground.

I'd bet that the Clarion HU has a sampler and a comparator cascade (implemented in firmware/digital domain), when there's enough sound energy coming from the mic, it'll send a difference between the energy sample and some preset audio-power threshold, it'll then scale an AD output on the 'Mic Detect' line to adjust the gain, in proportion to how large the difference from expected was. It may even be able to attenuate.

If I'm right - and I don't have the car to try this on, nor could I find the mic assembly on parts.subaru.com - all we'd need is a potentiometer to set the amp gain for the daily driver (as the person most likely to be using the handsfree voice), and it should probably be set during a 55mph drive. You'd still want to build the blocking capacitor, since I have no idea what a random HU supplied by a random person would do with the 5vdc bias Figuritout's method would supply in the mic-in input.

Anyone want to try? I still haven't bought the car - but I came to (and read) this (entire) thread along the journey of deciding when I do buy the car, what stereo (and trim - Base, Premium, Limited) to get. I think I like the idea of LED headlights, but now I'd have to find a Limited without HK and Starlink, or jump through a few extra hoops.

If someone's got a spare mic, I can spend a few minutes in my lab at work and figure out if my guesswork's right, assuming no one wants to try on their own? Edit: no, I won't have the time to spare, sorry...

It's also possible that Subaru added the gain-control feature to the mic for a really good reason, such as how much road noise can be in the cabin, and one potentiometer setting would not be enough in that case. Then, we could make a cheap inline device (read: PIC or other microcontroller) to do the double comparison and get the gain back to the mic.

I freely admit I'm not infallible, so if my guess is off, I'd like to know.

Last edited by SteveAustin; 01-25-2018 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 01-26-2018, 01:58 AM   #1368
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waiting for the HRN-RR-SU2 harness as well. phd12v let us know once its available to order.
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:39 AM   #1369
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waiting for the HRN-RR-SU2 harness as well. phd12v let us know once its available to order.
i intend on it.... trust me
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Old 01-30-2018, 12:17 AM   #1370
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Does anyone know if the Sony XAV-AX100 works with WRX models with multiple usb ports?

I don't want to drop $60 on the single usb port outlet, (86257AJ220)
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:35 PM   #1371
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Originally Posted by tylerwatt12 View Post
Does anyone know if the Sony XAV-AX100 works with WRX models with multiple usb ports?

I don't want to drop $60 on the single usb port outlet, (86257AJ220)
I installed a Pioneer HU on a 2017 Levorg with two USB ports by the lighter and used Metra AX-Subusb2 to convert the Subaru USB cord to aftermarket and it worked pretty well with only one minor issue: only one USB device worked at a time. I am guessing Sony will do the same. Another fix would be to take the Subaru usb box apart, and hot glue an aftermarket USB cord into the shell. I have done this a few times and it is OK. Once you fix the female end of a USB cord inside the USB boz that goes into the small panel which also houses the lighter, and hot glue it and then push it back to its place, you are done. All you need is a screw driver, a few zip ties and a hot glue gun.
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Old 02-03-2018, 02:38 PM   #1372
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Originally Posted by sculptoryb View Post
waiting for the HRN-RR-SU2 harness as well. phd12v let us know once its available to order.
Second that. I want to see if we can actually retain the H/K amplifiers with this new harness. He said it will start shipping out in Feb. but no sign of it yet.
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:13 AM   #1373
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Second that. I want to see if we can actually retain the H/K amplifiers with this new harness. He said it will start shipping out in Feb. but no sign of it yet.
the SU2 harness will be for radio replacement.... the HK system replacement is in development still. Im waiting to get the word on when they hit the warehouse. I will ask in my conference call tomorrow about it.
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Old 02-06-2018, 04:39 PM   #1374
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Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
the SU2 harness will be for radio replacement.... the HK system replacement is in development still. Im waiting to get the word on when they hit the warehouse. I will ask in my conference call tomorrow about it.
Appreciate it . The problem with H/K system is when the HU is replaced, no sound. Amp doesn't turn on.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:30 PM   #1375
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Originally Posted by phd12v View Post
ive done a few for people...... basically made it plug and play for them
What is the new harness for? What is the difference between the old and new maestro rr?
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