Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday October 17, 2017
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-13-2017, 12:22 PM   #51
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyposeur View Post
Thanks man. The SS has taught me a lot about subies that's for sure.

I wonder if my soldering job was defective or something. I used marine grade heat shrink over the joints.

I found these pages from the FSM so I can do a bit more diagnostics on the duty C solenoid wiring:
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag2.jpg

I'm sure I could replace the duty C solenoid again in a day if I have to do it over again but I'm not sure I feel like it right now. It would go a lot quicker the second time. The torque bind isn't too bad and my wife can live with it while we decide on another car. Oh well.



Perhaps it was the soldered joints. Everything else seemed to go well for you.
Yes it would go faster the second time, but it's still not a pleasant job.
Good luck if you decide on doing it.
Thanks for posting the diagnosis material!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Bikelok is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 08-19-2017, 09:06 PM   #52
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

I checked the resistance of the duty c solenoid and it is 24 ohms which is way out of the 1 ohm max range given in the FSM. The flow chart says to replace the duty C solenoid ground.

Does anyone know how to replace this ground?

EDIT: Here is some more info.

Links to FSM diagnostic procedure (same as a few posts above):
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag2.jpg

To check the Duty C solenoid's ground disconnect connector from the transmission, and measure the risitance between transmission connector receptacle and transmission case. I put the probe on pin 4 and the trans case and got a reading of about 28 ohms. The max allowed is 1 ohm so the reading I got would indicate a bad duty C solenoid Ground.

If you look at the pin out diagram you can see that the duty C ground is spliced into the signal wire going to the duty C. This is the line that I had to cut and splice.

The FSM flowchart states that if the ground line is out of the 1 ohm spec to repair the ground line. Unfortunately I don't have the transmission section of the first gen FSM. So in my mind the only way that I could replace the original ground would be to drop the trans, take it apart, and replace the internal wiring. Not an easy task.

However, in theory shouldn't i just be able to run a new ground wire from pin 4 to the chassis? It wouldn't be in a loop like the original wiring but that should provide a good ground for the TCU and should in theory provide a low resistance value?

If one looks at the wiring going into the 4EAT pin 4 ground loops into the duty C signal wire, so shouldn't running a new ground by tapping into the wire coming out of pin 4 work?:

My other idea is to go and measure the resistance of the donor legacy at the junkyard and see if pin 4 of the donor car gives a low resistance measurement. If I get a high number then I know that something else is the issue.

When I follow the FSM procedure to measure the resistance of the duty C solenoid itself (pin 4 and 11 of the connector) I get nothing, which would make sense if I am not getting a ground.

So perhaps the duty C solenoid was fine all along and I just have a wiring issue. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I'll post back any findings I get as well.

Last edited by monkeyposeur; 08-19-2017 at 11:36 PM.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 02:30 AM   #53
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyposeur View Post
I checked the resistance of the duty c solenoid and it is 24 ohms which is way out of the 1 ohm max range given in the FSM. The flow chart says to replace the duty C solenoid ground.



Does anyone know how to replace this ground?



EDIT: Here is some more info.



Links to FSM diagnostic procedure (same as a few posts above):

http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag1.jpg

http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...id_c_diag2.jpg



To check the Duty C solenoid's ground disconnect connector from the transmission, and measure the risitance between transmission connector receptacle and transmission case. I put the probe on pin 4 and the trans case and got a reading of about 28 ohms. The max allowed is 1 ohm so the reading I got would indicate a bad duty C solenoid Ground.



If you look at the pin out diagram you can see that the duty C ground is spliced into the signal wire going to the duty C. This is the line that I had to cut and splice.



The FSM flowchart states that if the ground line is out of the 1 ohm spec to repair the ground line. Unfortunately I don't have the transmission section of the first gen FSM. So in my mind the only way that I could replace the original ground would be to drop the trans, take it apart, and replace the internal wiring. Not an easy task.



However, in theory shouldn't i just be able to run a new ground wire from pin 4 to the chassis? It wouldn't be in a loop like the original wiring but that should provide a good ground for the TCU and should in theory provide a low resistance value?



If one looks at the wiring going into the 4EAT pin 4 ground loops into the duty C signal wire, so shouldn't running a new ground by tapping into the wire coming out of pin 4 work?:



My other idea is to go and measure the resistance of the donor legacy at the junkyard and see if pin 4 of the donor car gives a low resistance measurement. If I get a high number then I know that something else is the issue.



When I follow the FSM procedure to measure the resistance of the duty C solenoid itself (pin 4 and 11 of the connector) I get nothing, which would make sense if I am not getting a ground.



So perhaps the duty C solenoid was fine all along and I just have a wiring issue. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I'll post back any findings I get as well.


Wow, nice detective work there.

The junkyard test idea can't hurt except for the time it takes to do it.

The alternative ground idea seems like it might work. It would be much easier than pulling the transmission. Perhaps at least worth a try unless I'm just missing something here.

Good luck and keep us updated.
Bikelok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 09:10 AM   #54
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Were you measuring on the harness end or "through the solenoid"?
Pin 4 to pin 11 should be measuring a coil resistance. If it's high, the coil is failing.
Pin 4 to trans case is measuring the back side of the solenoid and the ground internally.
Pin 11 to trans case should be similar to pin 4 to pin 11.
All this is on the trans, not the harness to the TCU.

So, you state pin 4 to pin 11 is open, thus the solenoid coil is open, has nothing to do with the ground.
A coil is just a length of wire used to make an electromagnet, thus it should have continuity.
Pin 11 to trans case should also have continuity, pin 11 looks to be the feed from the TCU to the trans and thus into the coil.

I'm guessing the logic is pin 11 supplies a voltage from the TCU to the solenoid. There is a ground on the other side of the coil so it turns on as well as the wire to pin 4 which tells the TCU if there is a circuit or not.

Does this make sense? If not, look at the diagram again.
Charlie-III is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 11:48 AM   #55
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Were you measuring on the harness end or "through the solenoid"?
Pin 4 to pin 11 should be measuring a coil resistance. If it's high, the coil is failing.
Pin 4 to trans case is measuring the back side of the solenoid and the ground internally.
Pin 11 to trans case should be similar to pin 4 to pin 11.
All this is on the trans, not the harness to the TCU.

So, you state pin 4 to pin 11 is open, thus the solenoid coil is open, has nothing to do with the ground.
A coil is just a length of wire used to make an electromagnet, thus it should have continuity.
Pin 11 to trans case should also have continuity, pin 11 looks to be the feed from the TCU to the trans and thus into the coil.

I'm guessing the logic is pin 11 supplies a voltage from the TCU to the solenoid. There is a ground on the other side of the coil so it turns on as well as the wire to pin 4 which tells the TCU if there is a circuit or not.

Does this make sense? If not, look at the diagram again.
I was measuring through the solenoid I believe. I disconnected the transmission connector from the TCU harness and measured the pins of the wiring that goes inside the transmission following the FSM procedure in the linked pages.

The duty C solenoid has a one pin connector that connects to the wiring in the transmission, and then has a small ground wire that you bolt to itself when you install the solenoid. But the wiring diagram I posted shows the ground looping to the solenoid wiring which then goes in a single wire to the solenoid. So I was thinking that the small ground that bolts to the solenoid is not the ground that I was testing. I hope this makes sense.

Do you think my idea of running a separate ground from pin 4 is feasible?
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 12:59 PM   #56
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyposeur View Post
I was measuring through the solenoid I believe. I disconnected the transmission connector from the TCU harness and measured the pins of the wiring that goes inside the transmission following the FSM procedure in the linked pages.

The duty C solenoid has a one pin connector that connects to the wiring in the transmission, and then has a small ground wire that you bolt to itself when you install the solenoid. But the wiring diagram I posted shows the ground looping to the solenoid wiring which then goes in a single wire to the solenoid. So I was thinking that the small ground that bolts to the solenoid is not the ground that I was testing. I hope this makes sense.

Do you think my idea of running a separate ground from pin 4 is feasible?
I will start off and say I'm not an AT guy........
But, I can read a schematic.........usually......
CosmotheCat may trump me on that.


Are you 100% sure the solenoid has a single wire to it?
If yes, then the wire/tab that gets bolted down to hold the solenoid is the ground for that circuit. I will assume the harness picks up a trans case ground for the return to the harness & TCU somewhere else.
If this is true, then yes, you idea of running a ground may help, doubt it hurts.

If the solenoid has 2 wires, then I feel pin 4 (ground) is your issue.

Not sure what you know for electric, if you know, skip this next part.

ANY electric circuit (note the word, circuit, means starts and ends in a circle) needs a feed and a ground.
Automotive uses a battery. So power comes from battery positive, runs through stuff (sometimes lots of stuff!) and back to battery negative (ground).

Some circuits have some sort of switch that turns power on and off to a device, others "always" have power to a device (sometimes only with the key on) and then connects/disconnects the ground side going back to the battery. This may be why you see gauges with wiring for "ground switching".

Making a circuit is one thing, sometimes there is circuit monitoring. That may be why the 2nd wire to the TCU, it wants to see a return voltage to guess is the power is there. Your extra ground may do that.

Bad trans operation is one thing, a trans code may mean nothing other than the code.
Charlie-III is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2017, 11:03 PM   #57
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Charlie-III, thank you so much for the detailed explanation! It really helped me understand how it all works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Are you 100% sure the solenoid has a single wire to it?
Definitely. I can post pics later to confirm.

I read your post and went out and did some more testing. I tested pin 4, same result as before. I tested pin 11 and expected to see results like you suggested. Nothing registered. I tested pin 4 & 11 again, and still nothing registered. Looking at the wiring diagram again I realized that the pinout of the transmission connector looked more like the female end that goes to the TCU. What also tipped me off is the diagram shows the ground wire is black (BL) and the wire I was looking at was not black. Was I reading it backwards??? Apparently yes!

I checked the correct position of pin 4 and got .3 ohms! So the ground line is within the 1 ohm range. I then checked pin 4 & 11 and got 13.6 ohms, which is within the 9-15 ohm range! So the ground line is good, and so is the solenoid! If I followed the FSM flow chart I would have checked the TCU output signal first, but I figured it was easier to check the ground and solenoid first.

According to the flow chart the TCU must be faulty. I'll pull the junkyard TCU tomorrow and see if it solves the problem. I'll probably check the output voltage of the current TCU and see what I get.

At least I'm learning something.

Last edited by monkeyposeur; 08-20-2017 at 11:21 PM.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2017, 08:08 AM   #58
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Glad it helped out, also glad it made you go back and recheck.

I would check the wiring from the solenoid plug to the TCU, make sure you don't have a broken wire or a high resistance. Would suck to swap the TCU and find it's a wiring issue.

BTW, no need to post pictures at this point.

Thanks for replying back.

Last edited by Charlie-III; 08-21-2017 at 08:17 AM.
Charlie-III is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2017, 12:24 AM   #59
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Update:

After work I went to the junkyard to pull a TCU. The 93 Legacy w/90k I have been salvaging was gone. I was going to pull the moonroof assembly and motorized seatbelt assemblies and stash them away.

From what I have read the 90-92 TCUs have different wiring than the 93-94s but I'm not 100% sure on that. Anyway I pulled a TCU from a 93 sedan with 4WD and then pulled a TCU from a sedan with FWD. They are different TCUs with different part numbers and the 4WD TCU is stamped 4WD and has the designation 'KY' in large letters.



There are differences between the NA and Turbo TCUs although they can be interchanged. At first I assumed they would be the same but I poked around on bbslegacycentral before I installed the NA TCU. The main difference that was reported is that the NA TCU will go all the way to redline and bounce off the rev limiter at 7k, and exhibits different shift patterns and sometimes a rev hang.

I had yet to check the TCU output voltage of the turbo ECU and I wanted to know how it functioned so I swapped it in. It takes about 10 minutes at the most. Remove kick panel and remove the two bolts that hold the TCU in place and swap in the new one. The TCU is a gold box so it's hard to miss, it's left of the steering column.

Started the car and the 16 flashes were gone! Time for a test drive. I backed out of the driveway and did a tight slow turn and no more torque bind!

Did some WOT pulls and it would sometimes go all the way to 7k in first gear. bounce off the rev limiter a bit and then shift. Not too big of a deal. I then switched to POWER mode and it would do the same thing. It wouldn't always rev to 7k though, but almost always if you just mashed the pedal and ran it out. I could get it to rev almost to 7k, blip the gas and get it to shift so it could be worked around if you are paying attention. Felt pretty good to run it to 7k for the first time, lol.

After the test drive I tried to measure the output voltage from the turbo TCU and NA TCU but I was using my multimeter wrong. I think I know what I was doing wrong so I'll test it in the next day or two.

So in the meantime the NA TCU is going to be a great fix. I am asking around for a turbo TCU so I should be able to find one sometime soon to swap back in.

I then took apart the turbo TCU to see if there was anything visually wrong with the circuit board.



I've done a bit of soldering and repair with RC helicopter boards so I kinda know if something looks wrong. Visually the board looked fine. No loose bits or burn marks. I'm going to do some research and figure out if there is any way I can diagnose and repair the TCU.

Once I measure the TCU outputs and resistance of the wiring harness I will post what I get.

I think that the original TCU was probably on it's last legs and since the Duty C solenoid is activating all the time that wears out the TCU components. And perhaps the solenoid actually went bad that taxed the components even further. I swear the duty C solenoid was working for the test drive after I installed it so maybe then the TCU just crapped out. Just a wild theory but I'd like to think that all that work wasn't for nothing. I guess we'll see how this plays out.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2017, 08:21 AM   #60
Charlie-III
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Epic story, thanks for the update.
Charlie-III is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2017, 11:14 AM   #61
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

Default





Yes that is good news. Great work and loads of great info too.
Thanks monkeyposeur and Charlie-III
Bikelok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2017, 11:55 PM   #62
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Yes that is good news. Great work and loads of great info too.
Thanks monkeyposeur and Charlie-III
Hey, maybe this will help someone in the future! I really want to get to the bottom of this. I'm feeling a little obsessed.

Another Update:

I have more evidence that the TCU may be bad. I measured the voltage output of the TCU with the FWD fuse in and the accelerator pedal released and it was 11.9 V. This is in the specified voltage range of 8-14 V. The NA TCU output voltage is 11.4 V. However the output of the TCU with the FWD fuse removed and the pedal depressed is 10.2 V. The specified range is 0.5 V max. What is strange is the output of the TCU under the same measuring condition is 4.8 V. So both TCUs are out of range, but the Turbo TCU is a lot farther out of the range.

I found a thread on USMB about repairing a fried TCU with torque bind: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/top ... ad-duty-c/

My board shows no signs of damage like the board in the link above. I checked each of the transistors paying special attention to the transistor that is connected to pin 3, the duty C solenoid pin. They all read the same! So so far I have no indications that the transistor for pin 3 is in any way falty. The resistors measure in spec and I was able to follow the circuit all the way to one of the tiny black thingys on the back side. The black thingy looks like a small fet but I am not sure what kind of component it is.

I found a local electronics repair guy and with some persuasion I might be able to get him to repair the board if it needs it, or at the very least diagnose the issue. He feels working on older TCUs is potentially dangerous and I can see why for liability reasons.

I am also trying to figure out what JDM 20G transmissions may be compatible with the SS. There isn't a lot of information on them and I haven't come across any JDM wiring diagrams with which to compare to the SS 4EAT wiring. I am considering buying a complete 93ish JDM 20G 4EAT drivetrain and swapping that in next summer just to freshen things up. Although I would rather do a 02-03 WRX harness merge and build another 205/22T hybrid to modernize things a bit.

Once I know more I'll update. I still need to measure the resistance of the harness but I need a buddy to help with that. But so far the NA TCU is working nicely so that's a success. Still looking for a replacement TCU for a 93-94 Turbo Legacy if anyone has one.

I am going to replace the transmission ground line that goes from the pitch stop to the chassis tomorrow and see if that changes anything. The old ground line looks like crap. Running new grounds can help with the crappy old wiring on these old cars.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2017, 04:28 PM   #63
Bikelok
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 254851
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyposeur View Post
Hey, maybe this will help someone in the future! I really want to get to the bottom of this. I'm feeling a little obsessed.

Another Update:

I have more evidence that the TCU may be bad. I measured the voltage output of the TCU with the FWD fuse in and the accelerator pedal released and it was 11.9 V. This is in the specified voltage range of 8-14 V. The NA TCU output voltage is 11.4 V. However the output of the TCU with the FWD fuse removed and the pedal depressed is 10.2 V. The specified range is 0.5 V max. What is strange is the output of the TCU under the same measuring condition is 4.8 V. So both TCUs are out of range, but the Turbo TCU is a lot farther out of the range.

I found a thread on USMB about repairing a fried TCU with torque bind: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/top ... ad-duty-c/

My board shows no signs of damage like the board in the link above. I checked each of the transistors paying special attention to the transistor that is connected to pin 3, the duty C solenoid pin. They all read the same! So so far I have no indications that the transistor for pin 3 is in any way falty. The resistors measure in spec and I was able to follow the circuit all the way to one of the tiny black thingys on the back side. The black thingy looks like a small fet but I am not sure what kind of component it is.

I found a local electronics repair guy and with some persuasion I might be able to get him to repair the board if it needs it, or at the very least diagnose the issue. He feels working on older TCUs is potentially dangerous and I can see why for liability reasons.

I am also trying to figure out what JDM 20G transmissions may be compatible with the SS. There isn't a lot of information on them and I haven't come across any JDM wiring diagrams with which to compare to the SS 4EAT wiring. I am considering buying a complete 93ish JDM 20G 4EAT drivetrain and swapping that in next summer just to freshen things up. Although I would rather do a 02-03 WRX harness merge and build another 205/22T hybrid to modernize things a bit.

Once I know more I'll update. I still need to measure the resistance of the harness but I need a buddy to help with that. But so far the NA TCU is working nicely so that's a success. Still looking for a replacement TCU for a 93-94 Turbo Legacy if anyone has one.

I am going to replace the transmission ground line that goes from the pitch stop to the chassis tomorrow and see if that changes anything. The old ground line looks like crap. Running new grounds can help with the crappy old wiring on these old cars.


Fantastic info.
Bikelok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2017, 11:02 PM   #64
monkeyposeur
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
1993 SS
03 WRB GD 205/22T 20G-XT

Default

Swapped in a replacement turbo TCU. No change. Still flashes. So maybe both TCUs are bad? I feel like something else is going on that is separate from the TCUs but I'm stumped at this point.

I'm still confused as to why the output voltage of the TCUs (including the NA) is so much higher than the 0.5 V for the FWD fuse removed diagnostic condition. I replaced the ground line to the transmission and that didn't do anything.

One difference between the na TCU and the turbo TCU is that during the diagnostic test with the FWD fuse removed I can hear a buzzing in the transmission area when the turbo TCU is installed and the shifter is in D. With the na TCU there is no buzzing. This is the case for both turbo TCUs. Strange!!!

The NA TCU seems to work just fine so I'm going to just go with it at this point. I'm out of ideas.
monkeyposeur is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2017 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.