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Old 10-18-2017, 09:30 AM   #251
Scargod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
It is needle. It's the OTS one I told him to run. I had a few customers running this configuration for years. It's an idea that Dom and I kicked out years back.
There is aeration. I'll be posting some pics soon of a full solution for this.
Micah, I hope you are not talking about me because I don't even know what "OTS" means...

Chris: I am reluctant to run a 10mm. Seems like, by the chart, you are losing the potential flow rate you might need for keeping pressure up high. High being needed for racing applications. There are also other parasitic losses to a system like mine, where you have all the external hose and components.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:53 AM   #252
Homemade WRX
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OTS = COTS = (common) off the shelf.

In this case, the Peterson valve that we started discussing...last year (?) when you were going through this build. Maybe it was 2015. I don't recall. IIRC, you had issues with the normal rear placement due to a siphoning effect going on with your teed in Accusump...

I'm working on one similar to the Ilmor based guts that we used at my old day job. Has much better flow/relief control. Good enough for Indy and NASCAR, good enough for a track Subie, but integrated for our goofie engine. Even works with the KB oil pan!

Last edited by Homemade WRX; 10-18-2017 at 09:59 AM.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:25 PM   #253
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargod View Post
Chris: I am reluctant to run a 10mm. Seems like, by the chart, you are losing the potential flow rate you might need for keeping pressure up high. High being needed for racing applications. There are also other parasitic losses to a system like mine, where you have all the external hose and components.
Don't be reluctant. Under the right conditions the exhaust AVCS, in a DAVCS engine, can draw an additional +20% of flow, which is where the need for the 11mm pump comes from.

Even with your oiling modifications, larger clearances, remote oil cooler, oil filter(s) relocation, etc... that 10mm pump will have no problems, and it does have a higher pressure rating than the 11mm. I've seen the 10mm pumps spin to 10,000 RPMs without issue, running w-a-y more power than what you're looking to do.

I just don't see the need to move extra oil that's not going into the engine. It's sapping additional power and of course adding heat to the oil.

If you REALLY want to address the main oiling issue then go billet crank (they have better oiling & other features), precision line bore, and tight mains. Block oiling mods are helpful as well. This combination will give you the best oiling where these engines need it, the rod bearings.
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:53 PM   #254
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Steel main insert? Yes please.
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Old 10-20-2017, 07:00 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
OTS = COTS = (common) off the shelf.

In this case, the Peterson valve that we started discussing...last year (?) when you were going through this build. Maybe it was 2015. I don't recall. IIRC, you had issues with the normal rear placement due to a siphoning effect going on with your teed in Accusump...
Yes, indeed. I could not run through the Peterson to my Accusump. I left the Accusump on the rear galley spot and put the Peterson first in line, before the oil filter (with pressure sensors) and then the Mocal temperature control bypass valve and then the oil cooler. I bypass into the stock 1/2"FNPT in the bottom of the KB pan.
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:44 PM   #256
KillerBMotorsport
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Ditch the accusump. Or at the least make sure you're running the lowest pressure valve. Otherwise it will be recharging (reducing system pressure) at the most inopportune time.
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Old 10-22-2017, 12:06 AM   #257
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Ditch the accusump. Or at the least make sure you're running the lowest pressure valve. Otherwise it will be recharging (reducing system pressure) at the most inopportune time.
Don't you mean you should maintain a higher pre-charge air pressure in the Accusump? Then it will refill (take away engine oil) only when pressure is higher... and it will start emptying at a higher pressure. They recommend an air pre-charge between 7 and 10 psi.

What are you suggesting? The only other idea I have would be a pressure-activated one-way valve which opens at a certain, low threshold and the oil is maintained in the Accusump under a relatively high pressure. Then, oil would go back into the Accusump at a higher pressure via a second, one-way adjustable check valve. One for emptying, one for filling and relatively high air pressure in the Accusump for pushing it out. This might result in a transitional gray area where the engine has too much oil in it and would suffer from whipping, aeration and/or parasitic loss of power.
Perhaps a placebo, but I like dumping the Accusump's oil just before starting the engine.
Incidentally, I am seeing spikes up to 1.5 g's but only 1.3 that are sustained for up to five seconds in turn 9 at Palmer.
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