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Old 11-30-2015, 01:03 PM   #226
vicious_fishes
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i'm pretty sure the sti spec R seats are a straight swap over
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:09 PM   #227
Chezedik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lodown1 View Post
Besides that the intake cams have me confused. Here is a pic

High and low lift I understand, but why are there 2 different low lift lobes? Subaru tech manual does not give a height for two different low lift lobes could this someone be related to the JDM models only.
My guess is that by having two separate size low lift lobes, the engine will likely only partially fill at low rpm which would improve economy. It should also create a swirl effect in the cylinder which would improve atomization and combustion efficiency. I imagine that is what you are looking at, and it was put in place to make CAFE numbers and pass emissions in low rpm testing.
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Old 12-02-2015, 01:58 AM   #228
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Does this help, from the H6 Tech Ref Booklet:

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Old 12-02-2015, 07:43 PM   #229
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I get the theory behind the different lobe heights, however i am still curious why the service manual seems to reference different lobe heights but does not give the spec limits on for both...

Last edited by lodown1; 03-16-2016 at 10:23 PM. Reason: removed photo
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:25 PM   #230
lodown1
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Will have some more updates soon but for now here is a little teaser shot of one of the interior upgrades...

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Old 04-09-2016, 11:02 PM   #231
lodown1
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Here is the new rear brake setup...





With the caliper run in the leading underslung position things get a little tight between the caliper and the trailing arm.



About an inch between the fluid inlet and the arm, Tomorrow I will see if i can take the hubs apart to swap the torque plate from let to right. I t might move the caliper up a little higher.
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Old 04-10-2016, 02:47 PM   #232
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This image should give a better idea of what i did with the torque plate, to be able to mount the caliper in the leading position.



I tried swapping left to right but the torque plate would foul the spindle and need modifications. Of course I am tempted to just make a custom torque plate the would mount the radial mount calipers directly without the need for a bracket.
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:02 PM   #233
SF5STB
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Default Great job

I love this post, looking at the awesome transformation you have created with dedication, knowledge, skill, and time. I am driving a Japanese Stb 2000 right now, she's stock 4spd auto, sweet as they make 'em in Japan. It was imported grade 4.5 in 2013 after a long search.

I have it's predecessor in dry storage since she died in 2013. it's a 1997 JDM T/tb. Recently I was planning on clearing out the garage and selling the car, gear box and diffs are kaput. But after spending the last two hours reading this post, I am now thinking do what you did to lower it, maybe I don't have to make rings as I have the jap, fingers crossed.. and go 6spd manual 2.5 sti engine and diffs setup. It appeals now more than another thought I had to simply buy another car lol..

So, anyway, not to go on, thanks for all your posts and pictures and info. It has definitely got me thinking. I setup an account to comment, and will definitely be looking forward to more updates.

... But now, I am googling where to start to get a t/tb sf5 to sg9 sti spec... Would be cool to do as you with the interior aswell and wiring loom. I wonder if the sg9 interior is a snug fit in an sf5 cabin. If you have any info on that i'd appreciate it.

Best of luck with it.
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:33 PM   #234
lodown1
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Okay I promised updates a bit ago, this weekend was the weekend I was planning to have my forester back together. Back in October my 5 speed transmission decided to lock itself into 3rd gear. The shift selector forks were all broken. So I thought it was about time to do the sti 6 speed swap, and started looking a bit more seriously. One thing that has always bothered me about that transmission is the price, 3k to do the swap and for car parts that are more than 10 years old, supply is not low and you would be better off buying a salvage title car for 5-6k and most likely not pay a dime for the transmission after you sell the parts you don't need. Anyways a friend of mine has a 350Z transmission and suggested that maybe i should try to fit that instead. After some research and thinking it over I found a better option.

BRZ/FRS 6 speed manual. Paid 650 shipped for the transmission.






This transmission does bolt up to the EZ30 motor minus the two studs in the lower oil sump.



Clutch parts are all interchangeable between the 5 speed push type and the 6 speed. Flywheel part numbers are identical as well.



So the big issue is that the starter is on the wrong side of the block



continued on next post...

Last edited by lodown1; 05-22-2016 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 05-22-2016, 08:54 PM   #235
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Since I had my freshly taken apart forester 5 speed i figured i might as well utilize the starter housing from that and merge it with the 6 speed.









Nothing quite like cutting into good working parts.



The fitment of the 5 speed starter housing was a bit of a struggle, and if i could do this again i would go about it differently, maybe even look to have a complete new bell housing machined to fit both starter locations. But here is the fitment with some new aluminum to fill in the spots that were removed.



And after welding, I did the welding I still need more practice and skills with aluminum, at times it was a struggle but i was able to get some decent beads on it. And now I have a RWD 6 speed that will bolt to the engine and mount the starter.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:26 PM   #236
lodown1
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Okay, so fitting the transmission into he car...Here are a few pics of that process









Tail of the transmission sitting on the rear transmission mount



And the shift assembly of the 6 speed bolted into the stock forester shift bushing location.



I decided to use this to set the longitudinal placement of the engine so that I would not have to lengthen the shift assembly or linkage. I hindsight modifying those two items would have been the easiest, using this location moves the engine back about 3 inches. However I also needed to lower the engine mostly because the transmission angle was quite a bit greater than the diff angle, which would create problems with a new 1 piece driveshaft. I measured the transmission angle to be about 7 degrees down from horizontal. The Diff was pretty much level. This would be to much for the driveshaft and create unwanted vibrations. by lowering the engine about 3inches I was able to get the transmission angle to 4 degrees down. To cover the rest of the gap I modified the rear subframe and t-bar to get the diff to 3 degrees up.
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Old 05-22-2016, 09:49 PM   #237
lodown1
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The new engine location meant the stock subframe would no longer work, also because the engine was moved back the steering rack position would need to change. Somewhere along the way I also decided to use the steering rack from the BRZ, It has a 13:1 ratio and is electrical assist with the motor being on the steering column. This would mean deleting the hydraulic steering and all its associated lines pumps and fluid.

Of course none of this was easy or simple fixes. This photo shows the lack of space between the suspension control arm mounting and the steering rack. note the lack of sway bar in there as well (more on that later)


But on to the new tubular front subframe... Here it is about halfway completed




Here is a close up of the pockets that will lock the engine and transmission into the subframe. Did I mention they both will be rigidly mounted and technically semi-stressed suspension members.


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Old 05-22-2016, 10:00 PM   #238
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Finished subframe pics...






Mounted in the car with the brz steering rack.






The open cross tube is my solution for the front sway bar. I will be using a splined torsion bar that will run inside the tube.



And with the transmission mounted.



I will get the subframe painted or powder coated once I know that i will not want to change anything on it. It is pretty stout as well 23lbs heavier than i wanted but for my first one it turned out pretty well.
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Old 05-22-2016, 10:12 PM   #239
lodown1
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One additional detail on fitting the steering rack, i was not comfortable with how close it was to the control arm mount, it was probably .5 in away from the bolt and the dust boot for the rack would have never fit without tearing. So long story short I made room to move the rack forward.


Changing out the lower oil sump on this engine is not an easy task, everything must come off the front of the engine timing chains and all 100-150 bolts.

Despite the major surgery to move the rack it did not fix all the steering issues. because the engine is lower the rack is not up as high as it would have been, this leads to quite a bit of toe in under bump.

SO here are some nice aurora rod ends and hardware to make adjustable outer rod ends.




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Old 05-22-2016, 10:20 PM   #240
lodown1
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A couple more pics and everything should up to date...

my good engine with the new modified oil sump, mounted with transmission





And here are the clutch/flywheel parts I installed between them...ACT Prolite flywheel with a full face clutch disc and extreme duty pressure plate. Also ARP flywheel bolts all of which are brz fitment parts.





Lastly the new 1 piece steel driveshaft, put together by a shop called wiles driveshafts out in tennesee.
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Old 05-23-2016, 09:54 AM   #241
Seahawk
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Incredible work, what a great build. The BRZ transmission is intriguing, any concerns about the strength of the internal parts with the higher torque output of your engine? Were you already running a RWD only with your previous 5 speed trans setup?
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Old 05-23-2016, 07:54 PM   #242
lodown1
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not too concerned about the strength of the internals, sure it is not a bullet proof transmission but it should be adequate for my immediate needs. even with a built na motor I don't think it would be over 280 ft-lbs plus the car is pretty light. I would imagine its close to the brz weight with everything i have removed.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:35 PM   #243
lodown1
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Continuing with some updates, I have removed the AC and Power steering pump leaving just the alternator to run off the front of the engine. I spent some time looking through various serpentine belt catalogs to find a shorter belt and came up with this. A Dayco 5050230



I decided to keep the extra pulley as it shortens the effective belt length keeping the alternator closer to the engine block. Plus it bolts to the stock aluminum mount for the main alternator mount.



I still needed something to tension the belt properly, so I came up with this.



Using two 5/16" rod ends (both left and right hand threads.) I created a jack screw and counted it between the engine (m10x1.25) and the alternator(m8x1.25) The Alternator side was easiest as the M8 bolt work with the 5/16" rod end bore. However the engine side is a m10x1.25, I tried using a helicoil but it left the internal threads larger than a m8 and i could not tighten it down. So I found this nice little piece.



Its a shimano v-brake stud m10x1.25 thread with a 8mm shaft and internal thread for a m6x1 bolt. So bolted on with the jack screw it looks like this



It was quite a lucky find.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:54 PM   #244
binny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lodown1 View Post
Somewhere along the way I also decided to use the steering rack from the BRZ, It has a 13:1 ratio and is electrical assist with the motor being on the steering column. This would mean deleting the hydraulic steering and all its associated lines pumps and fluid.
Interested in this - are you using the BRZ column as well ?

Also super excellent build
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:29 AM   #245
lodown1
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I do plan to eventually install the brz column with the electric assist motor. There is a bit of wiring to do but the unit is more or less stand alone with its own ECU.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:41 PM   #246
lodown1
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Shifter Console Updates.....

My new driveshaft is a one piece 2.75" steel with larger spicer 1310 u joints, while the body clears everything in the tunnel the u joints would foul the shift rod mechanism. So i started cutting into the tunnel to



Fabbed up a new rear shifter bushing mount. and some metal to the front.



and here is the new console the the rubber boot will mount to



The thinner sheet metal is a little harder to weld without burning through so i used some dried holes and plug welded the new console into the tunnel.



especially where i need to T-weld one piece to another



and with all the plug welds finished



after that i filled in the front section to better blend the tunnel with the new console and did some grinding to smooth out the plug welds





to mount the shift boot I am using some floating nut plates and an-3 hardware. And I finally got a chance to use my rivet gun



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Old 06-10-2016, 09:41 PM   #247
lodown1
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The final bit of the shift assembly was a dust boot that covers the greased "ball" joint of the shift lever. The transmission I had did not come with the shifter so a Kart Boy short shift was used. However I did not have the dust boot the is only sold with the complete shift assembly from subaru. I managed to find a suitable replacement.



The piece is a tie rod dust boot a company out of russia polyboots.com has a great source with dimensions that you can purchase on eBay. Part number 13-30-22-1 (which correspond to the dimensions) looks to work perfectly.

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Old 06-10-2016, 09:51 PM   #248
sdunlimited
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I'm continually amazed at how you're able to restructure this thing as you go. Much respect for the fab skills. This is such an interesting thread to follow.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:09 AM   #249
donkeytits1
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Wow. I really don't have a reason to complain about the the complexity of my H6 project

Nice work on the fab man. And your FSAE stuff looks pretty cool too.
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:23 PM   #250
skatershawn
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Impressive build. Keep up the amazing work, builds like these inspire others.
Thank you!
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