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Old 08-08-2018, 11:19 PM   #5676
Scooby921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by equinox92 View Post
tl;dr modeled temperatures in performance vehicles is, and I want to make sure this point is driven home, ****ING stupid.

But yeah, at the end of the day Ford Engineering should have done their part to make a bigger unit all around, etc etc.
No one wanted to pay the $1m bill to add a thermocouple to the RDU oil sump. There is no reasonable, affordable, reliable way to add measured temperature to a rotating component like the clutch plates.

I don't disagree that measured > modeled, but it's not always an option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
Very cool, fun to compare varying times between different drivers and vehicles.
I wish I had the opportunity to try some different types of cars out there back to back to get a better feel first-hand for differences.

What sort of speeds were you hitting on the straight? Just curious, for comparison sake. I'm only able to muster around 123-124. I'd like to say I want more power out of the car at this point, but I'm already over-driving the brakes and need some ducting I think, even though I don't much like how they look...
Probably just enjoy it as is and see how long it remains reliable with what I have done to it.


I'll pass on the info to my friend for his Focus RS, he's also an engineer at Ford and he said he was going to try to get more info from some people in the performance division regarding his issues. He just went to the Ford driving course out in Utah a couple of months ago and I don't recall him mentioning experiencing any of those issues on the Focus RS' out there.
Years ago in my WRX I hit ~125mph at the end of the straight. In my Porsche I am usually around 135mph. I don't have any torque. I come around the last turn and onto the straight near 90mph. A stock-ish C5 Z06 owner I talked to last summer is touching 140mph at the end of the straight.

What are you running for brakes? Stock Brembo's with stock pads or upgraded pads?
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:08 AM   #5677
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Originally Posted by Scooby921 View Post
No one wanted to pay the $1m bill to add a thermocouple to the RDU oil sump. There is no reasonable, affordable, reliable way to add measured temperature to a rotating component like the clutch plates.

I don't disagree that measured > modeled, but it's not always an option.


Years ago in my WRX I hit ~125mph at the end of the straight. In my Porsche I am usually around 135mph. I don't have any torque. I come around the last turn and onto the straight near 90mph. A stock-ish C5 Z06 owner I talked to last summer is touching 140mph at the end of the straight.

What are you running for brakes? Stock Brembo's with stock pads or upgraded pads?

Yeah there was a guy in my group in a new M4 hitting 140 and it opened my eyes a bit to how fast some cars are getting now.


Running Girodisc brakes and CM RF1 brake fluid. Also added small wings to the lower control arm and cut the front backing plates to open up air flow... But I still get a spongy brakes if I go hard for like 8-10+ laps in a row... So I just do cool downs.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:31 PM   #5678
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When the Chicago GTR group invaded 3Balls at Grattan I rode with a GTR driver who was hitting 145 in the straight. Opened my eyes, LoL.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:35 PM   #5679
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Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
Yeah there was a guy in my group in a new M4 hitting 140 and it opened my eyes a bit to how fast some cars are getting now.


Running Girodisc brakes and CM RF1 brake fluid. Also added small wings to the lower control arm and cut the front backing plates to open up air flow... But I still get a spongy brakes if I go hard for like 8-10+ laps in a row... So I just do cool downs.
Have you measured rotor and caliper temps? The boiling point of your fluid is highly rated ~600. Soft pedal, eh? You still have backing plates? With ducts or no? Your car has nannies, right?
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:35 PM   #5680
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Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Have you measured rotor and caliper temps? The boiling point of your fluid is highly rated ~600. Soft pedal, eh? You still have backing plates? With ducts or no? Your car has nannies, right?
No temps measured. Considered doing that paint at one point, but never ordered any.

Like I mentioned above, front backing plates are cut and I've added small wings to the lower control arms that direct air toward rotor. Not expecting them to be nearly as effective as a full duct setup, but figured it could still help.

I never use torque vectoring, not even on street driving. I want to keep pad wear as even as possible and reduce brake dragging.
I am also aware of minimizing brake dragging and use while on track.



Same brake setup I had when we went to Mid-Ohio last year.
I never got soft pedal there though for that event, but weather was cooler from what I remember.
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:45 AM   #5681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
No temps measured. Considered doing that paint at one point, but never ordered any.

Like I mentioned above, front backing plates are cut and I've added small wings to the lower control arms that direct air toward rotor. Not expecting them to be nearly as effective as a full duct setup, but figured it could still help.

I never use torque vectoring, not even on street driving. I want to keep pad wear as even as possible and reduce brake dragging.
I am also aware of minimizing brake dragging and use while on track.



Same brake setup I had when we went to Mid-Ohio last year.
I never got soft pedal there though for that event, but weather was cooler from what I remember.
Oh, Ok.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:42 AM   #5682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedHoles View Post
Yeah there was a guy in my group in a new M4 hitting 140 and it opened my eyes a bit to how fast some cars are getting now.


Running Girodisc brakes and CM RF1 brake fluid. Also added small wings to the lower control arm and cut the front backing plates to open up air flow... But I still get a spongy brakes if I go hard for like 8-10+ laps in a row... So I just do cool downs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
Have you measured rotor and caliper temps? The boiling point of your fluid is highly rated ~600. Soft pedal, eh? You still have backing plates? With ducts or no? Your car has nannies, right?
That 622°F boiling point is only when fresh and "dry". CM RF1 is among the best in that regard, but it falls off very quickly as it absorbs moisture. By the time it reaches the FMVSS "wet" spec (3.7% water by volume) it has fallen to 399°F. I run Castrol SRF for its consistency. I wish it was more affordable, but the 518°F wet boiling is nearly 100°F better than the next racing fluid. The pedal feel and overall braking performance doesn't degrade nearly as much between fluid changes.

Buy this $10 tester and check the water content in your reservoir.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueSTI4Me View Post
When the Chicago GTR group invaded 3Balls at Grattan I rode with a GTR driver who was hitting 145 in the straight. Opened my eyes, LoL.
I imagine the Group 1 drivers with the NASA TT1/2/3 prepared Corvettes are at or above 145mph. Loads of torque and more than enough tire to slow it down at the end of the straight.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:08 PM   #5683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby921 View Post
That 622°F boiling point is only when fresh and "dry". CM RF1 is among the best in that regard, but it falls off very quickly as it absorbs moisture. By the time it reaches the FMVSS "wet" spec (3.7% water by volume) it has fallen to 399°F. I run Castrol SRF for its consistency. I wish it was more affordable, but the 518°F wet boiling is nearly 100°F better than the next racing fluid. The pedal feel and overall braking performance doesn't degrade nearly as much between fluid changes.

Buy this $10 tester and check the water content in your reservoir.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
.
I had a tester - but did not show percentage. Glad you reminded me as I don't know where it is right now. So ordered your suggestion, lol.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:30 PM   #5684
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Corporate Sponsor Racing

$150 !

https://www.facebook.com/events/712239702317467/
In for possibly my last rodeo of 2018.
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Old 08-10-2018, 03:45 PM   #5685
SpeedHoles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby921 View Post
That 622°F boiling point is only when fresh and "dry". CM RF1 is among the best in that regard, but it falls off very quickly as it absorbs moisture. By the time it reaches the FMVSS "wet" spec (3.7% water by volume) it has fallen to 399°F. I run Castrol SRF for its consistency. I wish it was more affordable, but the 518°F wet boiling is nearly 100°F better than the next racing fluid. The pedal feel and overall braking performance doesn't degrade nearly as much between fluid changes.

Buy this $10 tester and check the water content in your reservoir.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1





I imagine the Group 1 drivers with the NASA TT1/2/3 prepared Corvettes are at or above 145mph. Loads of torque and more than enough tire to slow it down at the end of the straight.


My manager races a C5 in TT3/ST3.


Thanks for that link, I pulled the trigger on one as well, just so I can have an idea. I was just doing one flush per season, and a bleed every event (I only do a few events every season so far)

Any of you guys have a good recommendation for a good value temp gun? Is this an accurate way to measure brake temps even though I can't see realtime temps on a hot lap, but would be measuring after a cool down lap and after pulling into pits?




Oh, and I'll be doing a track event at Waterford on Aug. 24th.
More of you guys should come out then also! First time tracking there, and my friend with the RS and another guy I met at Grattan with an STi will be there as well. Should be fun!
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Old 08-10-2018, 04:26 PM   #5686
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I bought one of these when I was trying to adjust the various dampers and vents for the HVAC system in my house. Expensive, but reviews suggested good quality and accuracy. It works find for checking temps at the track. You can likely survive with a less accurate version for rotor temps. If it's ±20°F accuracy on rotor temps it won't matter. 1000°F vs. 1020°F is still hot. When dealing with 1~5°F difference in A/C output at home I needed the higher accuracy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The issue with IR thermometers is averaging over the area of coverage. The farther you are from the object you are measuring the larger the circle / area it's reading. You want to get right up next to the wheel and measure between spokes to get a rotor temp. You can measure yourself when you get back to paddock, or have a friend / helper ready. If you have a helper perhaps you can come off track mid-session and have them meet you and check temps as close to the track exit as the organizers will allow. With 3 Balls @ Grattan they could be standing in the grass near the fuel pump right as you get off track at turn 3. Then you can head straight back to the track entry between turns 4 and 5 to finish off your session.

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Old 08-11-2018, 09:20 PM   #5687
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Damnit Henry Ford!!!!!!!

No pedestrians were hurt in this exercise.

Last edited by BlueSTI4Me; 08-11-2018 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:14 PM   #5688
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Little meetup today

Couple of Bugeye




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Old 08-20-2018, 11:52 AM   #5689
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Non rust bucket bugeyes. Very nice!
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:12 AM   #5690
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Little meetup today

Couple of Bugeye




Sweeeettt
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:50 AM   #5691
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Just got my driver slot for Waterford this Friday.

Come party!
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:03 AM   #5692
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Just got my driver slot for Waterford this Friday.

Come party!
Just went out to Waterford a couple of days ago, for my first time. Man, took me a while to try to learn it! Had a hard time finding some marks for consistent late apexes.
Ton of fun though after you get used to some stuff, if you don't stare at the walls, haha!



Waterford 1970 vibes out there

Last edited by SpeedHoles; 08-26-2018 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 08-26-2018, 06:14 PM   #5693
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Tic toc to party time. 8-31-18
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Old 08-27-2018, 01:53 PM   #5694
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Going to miss it, heading back east to visit the family, eatz all dah foodz
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:14 PM   #5695
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Going to miss it, heading back east to visit the family, eatz all dah foodz
Eatz all dah foodz and enjoy the family!
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:52 AM   #5696
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Hey greater Detroit. It’s a long shot but do any of you have an SPT exhaust for a 2011 WRX hatch laying around you’d want to sell? One of my muffler welds apparently broke loose and my muffler is laying somewhere on the side of M5 at the moment. Subaru wants to charge me 801 just for a new muffler portion plus installation.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:45 AM   #5697
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Hey greater Detroit. It’s a long shot but do any of you have an SPT exhaust for a 2011 WRX hatch laying around you’d want to sell? One of my muffler welds apparently broke loose and my muffler is laying somewhere on the side of M5 at the moment. Subaru wants to charge me 801 just for a new muffler portion plus installation.
Where along M5?

I can keep a lookout for it, haha!
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Old 08-29-2018, 12:01 PM   #5698
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Where along M5?

I can keep a lookout for it, haha!
Lol best guess between Novi and Farmington going eastbound ***128539;
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Old 08-30-2018, 08:12 AM   #5699
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It's likely already been picked up and turned in to the metal recycler for money.
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:43 PM   #5700
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So, long shot, but does any one want to help me finish my timing by belt install tomorrow (Sunday)?

Or at least have some advice on the order to install the idlers/tensioner? I don’t remember the belt being so tight when I put this last one on.
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