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Old 01-25-2021, 09:46 PM   #26
TurboWanderer
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Just get quality oil. If you get hung up on what everyone recommends you'll never make a decision. There's a reason Subaru uses what they use and recommends what they recommend.
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:55 PM   #27
basyager
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboWanderer View Post
Just get quality oil. If you get hung up on what everyone recommends you'll never make a decision. There's a reason Subaru uses what they use and recommends what they recommend.
they also do 6000 mile intervals which is double what everyone says it should be. they only need it to last the warranty...
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Old 01-26-2021, 08:36 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by basyager View Post
they also do 6000 mile intervals which is double what everyone says it should be. they only need it to last the warranty...
double what everyone says???? You mean 3000????

news flash, it isn't 1991 anymore. Literally nobody other than quick lube places say 3000 these days
That is just a waste of oil and time
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Old 01-26-2021, 10:23 AM   #29
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6k isn't necessarily a bad interval. There are some very knowledgeable, reputable people pushing 8k intervals with the oil analyses to back it up. A lot of it depends on driving habits. If you do mostly short trips and hammer on it do a shorter interval. Do a lot of freeway driving and don't get on it often you can probs get away with longer intervals. I think a lot of people on this sub just do short intervals as cheap insurance.

Get a good spec oil, and check the level every gas fill-up.
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Old 01-26-2021, 10:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krahk View Post
6k isn't necessarily a bad interval. There are some very knowledgeable, reputable people pushing 8k intervals with the oil analyses to back it up. A lot of it depends on driving habits. If you do mostly short trips and hammer on it do a shorter interval. Do a lot of freeway driving and don't get on it often you can probs get away with longer intervals. I think a lot of people on this sub just do short intervals as cheap insurance.

Get a good spec oil, and check the level every gas fill-up.
This seems to be the main reason. And it is a pretty good one tbh. As the saying goes... oil is a lot cheaper than a new block. But, lets not get carried away and assume the block is toast if we go 4,0001 miles on the oil.
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:35 AM   #31
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I am aiming for doing changes between 3-4k, but I have a few extra hrsprs to worry about. Doing the math it costs me $45 per change using the OEM filter and oil. And I get a free half quart out of that!
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Old 01-26-2021, 12:35 PM   #32
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I used to do mine every 5k miles since its easy enough number to remember, 15, 20, 25,... but i skipped one to 7500 so now i am on another 7500 to correct the numbers but i may just stay 7500mi. Fbo e60 flex tuned. I believe even 10k/1yr oil changes would be enough, but i also sometime enjoy the maintenance.

Next interval (in 1500) i have a belt to change at 35000mi. Also check brakes and if need changing have sti calipers and new rotors waiting for over a yr now. Also a clutch slave ss line but i dont feel like moving the tmic.. dont like messing with things that work. So oil change becomes an excuse or occasion to do other maintenance. Air filters get amazingly filthy.

Last edited by Rexy18; 01-26-2021 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 01-26-2021, 02:09 PM   #33
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fahk it you guys convinced me to do 6k(10,000km) oil changes like dealership recommends.. I'm not racing or driving at high rpm for extended period of time and these engines dont last forever anyway soooo.. should be fine. buy some vape juice with the $$ i save

I wanna do an EGR delete to keep valves clean but it would require tuning which usually leads to stuff blowing up.. so maybe ill just keep the thing 100% stock and just get a walnut blasting kit and do that every year. Why is everyone buying this accessport thing? Is it like a must have if you wanna do a tune? everyone roasts the stock tune but i feel like its the most reliable option.

Last edited by basyager; 01-26-2021 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 01-26-2021, 03:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basyager View Post
I wanna do an EGR delete to keep valves clean but it would require tuning which usually leads to stuff blowing up.. so maybe ill just keep the thing 100% stock and just get a walnut blasting kit and do that every year. Why is everyone buying this accessport thing? Is it like a must have if you wanna do a tune? everyone roasts the stock tune but i feel like its the most reliable option.
You need an AP to do any kind of tuning, and you would need a tune for the EGR delete.

The OTS (off the shelf) tunes that come with the AP will eliminate the rev hang and clean up power delivery.

Stuff only blows up when you don't do research and have an unreliable tune. Usually
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Old 01-26-2021, 03:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basyager View Post
fahk it you guys convinced me to do 6k(10,000km) oil changes like dealership recommends.. I'm not racing or driving at high rpm for extended period of time and these engines dont last forever anyway soooo.. should be fine. buy some vape juice with the $$ i save

I wanna do an EGR delete to keep valves clean but it would require tuning which usually leads to stuff blowing up.. so maybe ill just keep the thing 100% stock and just get a walnut blasting kit and do that every year. Why is everyone buying this accessport thing? Is it like a must have if you wanna do a tune? everyone roasts the stock tune but i feel like its the most reliable option.
EGR delete wont keep the valves clean. Walnut blasting is only way to make sure they are kleen af. But not necessary to do annually -- unless you really just want it cleaned. WMI helps with keeping them "clean" when the spray hits back of the valves frequently.

AP is the tuning platform of choice for subarus. There are other options out there, but cobb AP seems to be the easiest and most common to use.
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:58 PM   #36
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EGR delete wont keep the valves clean. Walnut blasting is only way to make sure they are kleen af.
I think he meant the system that recirculates crank vapors
pcv or whatever they call it on these engines
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Old 01-26-2021, 05:08 PM   #37
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I think he meant the system that recirculates crank vapors
pcv or whatever they call it on these engines

No I meant EGR. Along with a AOS it will reduce build up. like honestly, its just there so they can pass emissions and release the car

but there are PCV deletes too.(although im not sure how that would affect things since it bleeds pressure from the crank case, or sometng like that, I don't know I'm not an enginner LOL

Last edited by basyager; 01-26-2021 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 01-27-2021, 11:11 AM   #38
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No I meant EGR. Along with a AOS it will reduce build up.
This has been proven as UNTRUE many times already on this forum. Does it help? sure. Maybe a bit. Is there still build up? Yes. Why. DIT always have build up on the back of valves.

I did egr and AOS after i walnut blasted the first time. When i checked the intake tract at full-build time... valves were black and caked just like when i first walnut blasted.

The only way you can actually reduce build up is by having something hit the back of the valves -- like water, meth, or a mix of both. Other than that, the only way the valves will ever truly be clean is by walnut blasting the crud off them.

This comes with the DIT territory.
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Old 01-27-2021, 01:33 PM   #39
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ok got you
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:48 AM   #40
PilotKD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobultimatum View Post
This has been proven as UNTRUE many times already on this forum. Does it help? sure. Maybe a bit. Is there still build up? Yes. Why. DIT always have build up on the back of valves.

I did egr and AOS after i walnut blasted the first time. When i checked the intake tract at full-build time... valves were black and caked just like when i first walnut blasted.

The only way you can actually reduce build up is by having something hit the back of the valves -- like water, meth, or a mix of both. Other than that, the only way the valves will ever truly be clean is by walnut blasting the crud off them.

This comes with the DIT territory.
So is an AOS a waste of time and money? I realize EGR delete provides some performance benefits, but if an AOS doesn't do what everyone thinks it does, it's a rather large expense in any build that could be focuses somewhere else (like routine walnut blasting expenses).

As far as oil; like someone said before, there are so many different recommendations on oil. Just remember, manufacturers are recommending thinner and thinner oils to meet fuel economy standards. Are engines built tighter than they were 30 years ago? Maybe, but thinner oils are less internal drag for the engine to squeeze out that last 1-2mpg. Do manufacturers care if the engine will only last 100,000 miles instead of 200,000? No, That's still outside of their warranty coverage 90%+ of the time. There are a lot of cars sold in other countries that recommend several different viscosities in their owners manuals when they only recommend one viscosity in their U.S. Owner's Manual. For example, my '08 Mazdaspeed3 called for 5W-30 here in the US, but the "MPS" manual in other countries, to include Australia, specified a 5W or 10W-40 was acceptable between certain operating temperatures giving the owner the choice. I always run Rotella T-Syn 5W-40 in my MS3 (still do to this day). I have been using it since my first oil change in that thing. Once you pick an oil, try to stay with the same oil for the life of the car, if possible. I have been using the Castrol Edge 0W-40 in my WRX. Most of these will shear down to a 30 weight by 4-6k anyway.

Last edited by PilotKD; 01-31-2021 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:54 AM   #41
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yoyo Subie homiezz. my first oil change is coming up and im trying to decide whether to just get OEM black filter or order online something like WIX, or this oversized MAHLE filter. There's also this $11CAD Mobil 1 filter in the "high performance" category.

and can't decide with oil... MOTUL seems to be the "hype". is it worth the price?

Am I over-thinking this?

on an unrelated you guys think I should bother the dealership to do the 4th gear TSB? can't say im excited about the idea of having a stranger tear into it...

Though none were turbo, in three different Subaru's, I've used mostly Mobil 1, (unless another similar quality oil on sale) and Fram Ultra, XG, OEM and Mobil 1 filters. Heck, even Supertech works well and is dirt cheap for a full syn. My Forester went a little over 240k with 7500 OCI and my Crosstrek about 160k before deer impact. My Impreza will get the same treatment. Pick a synthetic oil you like and change at 6k or so. Most syn can get well past that, but it's up to you.
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Old 01-31-2021, 11:21 AM   #42
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So is an AOS a waste of time and money? I realize EGR delete provides some performance benefits, but if an AOS doesn't do what everyone thinks it does, it's a rather large expense in any build that could be focuses somewhere else (like routine walnut blasting expenses).

.
I dont think you understand what an AOS purpose is then. It is not meant to keep valves clean. AOS and catch-cans ensures oil(and potentially anything else?) is separated from air that goes to your engine. In our case, we can see how good an aos is performing by taking a peak at our coldside tmic... sometimes you will see oil. Slap an AOS on the system and you see minimal or no oil.

Generally speaking, an AOS is good for longevity and overall insurance that something is not happening. You ultimately decide whether it is worth it to you or not. The way I see it, any turbo car being kept for high-mile usage should have an AOS. Why not? it helps and does not impede. very low risk of failure (installation done correctly is super important with any mod).

Again. the build up that occurs on our valves is due to direct injection -- nothing new. There is literally nothing washing over the backs of our valves. Port injection (think like EJ series) helps minimize/reduce build up since fuel is spraying on the back of the valves.

Want clean valves? Walnut blast periodically.

Want cleaner valves but don't want to walnut blast? WMI helps reduce the amount of build up overtime.
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