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Old 07-27-2018, 11:17 PM   #101
VinceS2
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Location: Newcastle Australia
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2005 EVO 8 WRX + STi
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A blockage in your fuel line also fits the symptoms as described, have you checked for pressure and flow?

Re alarm references, when you say 'no difference', do you get the tacho sweep on successful input of code and hear the fuel pump run to pressure? Assuming your alarm behaves the same way an '05 Oz Rex dealer fitted alarm does. Should at least hear the pump kick in.
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:27 AM   #102
MSpera
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Should've described it better. When I jumpered the fuel pump relay it was running like it should be, car decided to shut off after 1-2 seconds anyway. So I assume it kills the injectors or ignition (because the pump was still running). Which I'm also assuming is the immobilizer being a pain.

I have a fuel pressure gauge but couldn't find a port to hook into, and don't have enough little parts to rig it up to take a sample right from the fuel line before the rail.

I've dealt with weak pressure before and it doesn't quite fit since it starts, revs to 1500, then shuts off without a stutter. I'll still check it when I can though. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:47 AM   #103
Charlie-III
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Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSpera View Post
Should've described it better. When I jumpered the fuel pump relay it was running like it should be, car decided to shut off after 1-2 seconds anyway. So I assume it kills the injectors or ignition (because the pump was still running). Which I'm also assuming is the immobilizer being a pain.

I have a fuel pressure gauge but couldn't find a port to hook into, and don't have enough little parts to rig it up to take a sample right from the fuel line before the rail.

I've dealt with weak pressure before and it doesn't quite fit since it starts, revs to 1500, then shuts off without a stutter. I'll still check it when I can though. Thanks for the reply.
Some alarms kill spark, some kill fuel. Check in the security section for re-pairing your fobs.

I would prefer a fuel pressure gauge around the FPR (fuel pressure regulator), this is after the injectors.
Yes, some cars have a Schrader valve port to just screw a gauge into, many don't, so you need some fittings/barbs, a bit of hose and clamps.
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Old 07-31-2018, 06:34 PM   #104
MSpera
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OK, I was stupid. I tightened the two grounds on the intake manifold with my fingers when I was putting it all back together but never hit it with a wrench. Was tight enough to get me around for a while but then loosened up and gave me problems. Still looked tight and was in the right place so I never tried wriggling it, my buddy did that when he stopped by. Tightened it up and it fired up and has been running for a few days. Loosened one up while running and the car dies instantly. Feel like an idiot.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys.
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:02 AM   #105
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSpera View Post
OK, I was stupid. I tightened the two grounds on the intake manifold with my fingers when I was putting it all back together but never hit it with a wrench. Was tight enough to get me around for a while but then loosened up and gave me problems. Still looked tight and was in the right place so I never tried wriggling it, my buddy did that when he stopped by. Tightened it up and it fired up and has been running for a few days. Loosened one up while running and the car dies instantly. Feel like an idiot.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys.
Poop happens.
Thanks for closing your issue out though.
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Old 08-14-2018, 08:16 PM   #106
Outintheback
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Default Battery sizing for replacement/what's with Subie's battery info

This and other threads indicate people have sometimes found OEM batteries wanting. And expensive.
The problem I've run into is that for my Outback I'm supposed to use a Group 25 battery, but the better batteries (Walmart Maxx, Interstate Tron, Sears Gold) don't seem to come in a 25--instead you find the second level quality batteries-- a battery with a two year warranty, 550 cca as opposed to the premium's 700

To add to this the manual says squat about it, doesn't give the specs, and when you look for pricing dealers want you to write in as if you were looking to buy an antique. it's far from friendly.

So, friendly people, if your Subie requires a group 25 have you ever used a 24f or 35 or other group that is available and what was your experience?

Would it be terrible to shame Subaru before Consumer Reports and other consumer publications and sites for seeming to have a no information/weird size for no better reason than they want people to buy OEM?

Happy trails!
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:55 PM   #107
stnacld
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Default Thank Uncle Scotty

Uncle Scotty’s instructions worked to a tee.
Apparently the auto shop left the battery out too long when replacing the defective one. When first started, my 2007 Outback was rough idling. The calibration wasn’t successful and the Check Engine light came on, cruise control did not work and the a/c didn’t operate properly. When I got home, I followed Uncle Scotty instructions. Forty minutes later, the Outback was back in working order.
Thanks for this forum posting.
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Old 07-22-2019, 01:54 PM   #108
Cleoutback
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Default Post battery change ecu reset sucess!

Uncle Scotty, Thanks for sharing your ecu reset process! Solved my issue and saved me a trip to the dealer! Now i can continue my vacation without worry!
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:44 PM   #109
CaptainSlowbaru
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I didn't read through all of this thread, so I don't if this has been covered or not, but I want to set the record straight on this as I started seeing mis-information on this subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
sometimes the ecu gets corrupted and needs a fresh start
This is not true.

The reason the engine stalls after a new battery (or memory erase) is because of a dirty throttle body. The engine doesn't have proper idle learn.

2 things fix this:
-the procedure outlined at the beginning of this thread.
-clean the throttle body.

The 2nd one is my preferred method, because it fixes the root cause. Plus it's quicker, and it's good maintenance. And thereafter, the battery can be disconnected, or the memory cleared, and the engine won't ever stall.

Apologies if this was touched upon prior, but I dislike the spread of bad info, so I felt it was worth mentioning. Not all of us are technicians, and many people rely on this community for reliable info.
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:20 PM   #110
shortpuffgal41
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Default 2000 Subaru outback starting issue/no co engine light on etc.

I have replaced a corroded connection to battery. Usually when I can get it to start, I take connections off n put them back onto battery. And it starts most of the time. No other warning lights are coming on. Battery has been tested and their is power n it's good. As well as a brand new starter n alternator tested good as well. Anyone know what this issue might be? I have took connections off waited 15 mins, get back in and basically have done what has been advised in this thread. I am at a block as to what the problem is. And is this common with Subaru's? Any advice would be quite helpful. Is it an electrical issue? Wiring or fuse?
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