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09-24-2003, 05:33 PM | #76 |
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Vehicle:97 Brighton 2.5! the REAL red |
I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the DOHC 2.5. I need to know if the "magic bullet" engine is going to be just as swapable. Then, I need to find one.
Brighton is sweet, eh? No options for me except AC and an aftermarket CD player. Who needs a tach? Rev it til it hits the rev limiter, then shift. Not like you're going to ever be going really fast with the 1.8. Well, actually, I got mine up to about 110 for kicks. Probably not safe on 170/75/14's that are R rated. WRX wheels and tires soon. Then AGX's. Then, 2.5.
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09-24-2003, 11:12 PM | #77 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SF
Vehicle:1995 RHD STi RA Ver2 swap starr |
tachometer.
for those who have no tach, ive got a guage cluster with a tach from a 93 L taht shoudl be plug and play and solve your no tach woes. its got a cracked face, but u can easily replace it with your good one.
it belongs to my friend. he'd probbly sell it for $25 h SOHC phase 2 shortblocks arnt that much $$. ive seen good ones (10:1 compression) go for $300 h |
09-25-2003, 07:46 PM | #78 |
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Vehicle:97 Brighton 2.5! the REAL red |
What do you think about getting a Phase II shortblock, and then buying some cheap used DOHC heads? Think everything else I need will bolt up from the 1.8?
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09-26-2003, 12:20 AM | #79 |
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Vehicle:1995 RHD STi RA Ver2 swap starr |
block.
ud be better of buying teh whoel DOHC motor and then swapping the block later. ud at least know the block was good and the heads were good, so a full running motor b4 u swapped it. at least ud be able to make sure everything worked b4 u frankensteined. besides, DOHC heads arent cheap, and teh little bits of crap will kill u.
ALSO, the DOHC block isnt a total POS. it runs, and it has held up to my abuse just fine. its not like u are going to blow it up on the first run, its a subaru OEM bit. id say just run the sucker untill somthing happens, then swap. or swap if u come along a good phase 2 block. h |
11-25-2003, 07:14 PM | #80 |
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ok you people are confusing any who sorry to bring up this old post but no one would answer my new post. i was wondering if all EJ moters will fit (mounts and the like) say i have obd II maf awd 5spd ej22 what would be involved in swaping in a turbo motor say an ej20t i asume mostly wiring but would this swap be more cost efective than swaping a ej25 dohc and building it for turbo and is there a 2.5 turbo (what is it from)?????
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11-26-2003, 10:31 PM | #81 |
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Vehicle:1995 RHD STi RA Ver2 swap starr |
there is a OEM EJ257 turbo. it comes in the USA STI. if u want to swap it in, u will have hell to pay ($$$ and wiring - e throttle etc.) however it will bolt in just fine.
all subaru mount is the same. engine, trans, etc. any trans will fit any motor. turbo motor is aLOT of work. SERIOUS work. figure 40 hours of wiring if u have practice on swaps. the proffessionals spend like 25 hours or so. drive your car. if u blow up a motor or somthing, swap in a EJ25 NA motor. if u cant stand not having a turbo then u can figure out options after that. its easy cheap power. or i can turbo the EJ18. lotsa those around.... h |
11-27-2003, 08:13 PM | #82 |
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thank you for the info another question though are internals for an ej25 available (rods crank journals) and once this is done will the side walls hold 14psi
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11-23-2006, 12:20 PM | #83 |
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Location: fairview IL
Vehicle:1998 2.5.RS black |
can someone help me up to finish up i will pay for
i have a half done GC8 that need someone help me to finish the wiring and clutch pad (AT swap MT). i been try to see if anyone can help me finish the car and i will pay what ever it cost . i live very close to St.louis but the car is over at my friends house over at indy (up N indy ) so if u can pick up the car for me that will be good to . i need to get the car out in this 2 week his is move out the house so i need it get the car ASAP
thank u let me know |
01-22-2007, 08:11 AM | #84 |
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mmm
oops wrong topic
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10-28-2008, 03:44 PM | #85 |
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So what would you have to do to get a 2000 2.5 to work with a 1996 2.2 ecu and wiring harness. Will it run rich like the 1.8 to 2.5 comments above?
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10-28-2008, 09:58 PM | #86 |
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Holy bump from the dead! Nice to see the search function still works!!!
To run the '00 motor on the 96 ECU, just use the engine harness and sensors from the EJ22 on the '00 motor. Swap the throttle body, and rewire the coil plug, or you can rewire the harness to bypass the igniter and use the '00 coil. That's pretty much it. It's not going to run that bad.......You can use a 98RS ECU if you want to. It's plug and play with your 96 harness. Jay |
10-30-2008, 12:49 PM | #87 | |
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Quote:
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11-11-2008, 07:41 PM | #88 |
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Vehicle:02 WRX Wagon 96 Impreza, 06 STI |
Wow, a couple days after this was revived from the dead I found it through searching too... From what I've read here I understand that a DOHC 2.5L should Plug and Play with my 96 Brighton 1.8L ECU. Will my cable transmission/clutch/flywheel on my 96 bolt up to the DOHC 2.5L?
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11-12-2008, 09:55 PM | #89 |
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Odyknuck: When I say it won't run that bad, I mean it'll be 90-ish% of what it could be. Adding a piggyback fuel controller can dial in that last little bit to get the most from it....cheaply.
Ninja007: Yup, plug and play. The flywheel plays nice with the EJ25....I suggest a lighter flywheel while you've got things apart. Get one for the 2.5RS and get a clutch for the the 2.5RS as well. A Brighton clutch will have a hard time holding the EJ25 for very long. I actually PREFER the cable actuated clutch over the hydraulic type.....I never have to worry about heatsoaking the cylinder, bleeding it after every clutch change or shudder in the dead of winter. Just a simple no-frills cable system that works when you want it to. Jay Storm |
11-13-2008, 01:35 AM | #90 |
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Location: Lynnhood, WA
Vehicle:02 WRX Wagon 96 Impreza, 06 STI |
I've read that the 1.8l flywheel is already 4lbs lighter than the rs one, but I take it that if I upgraded to an RS clutch I would need to get a rs compatible flywheel as well?
Any recommendations on a good budget fuel controller? As always good info, thanks Jay. -Aaron |
11-13-2008, 03:44 PM | #91 | |
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Quote:
What year RS clutch will work? I don't know if they changed |
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11-13-2008, 07:55 PM | #92 |
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Bubba: It's impossible for a cable to "squeak" if it's not moving.....yours stops squeaking when you push the clutch in. That tells me your problem lies in the throwout bearing or pilot bearing. I don't see how a new cable by itself would stop the noise, unless it was an adjustment issue.
Ninja: I honestly never tried to bolt an RS clutch to my old EJ18 flywheel....I left it outside the garage where I did my 1st swap and it (the motor) grew legs that night, as it was gone the next afternoon..... I would suggest the RS flywheel to be sure it all fits. The Apex-I SAFC is what I've been using for years now. Other than the horrible instructions that it came with (there are functions on it that are not covered in the piss-poor manual)....it's been good for me. The Emanage is another more involved option. Jay Storm |
11-22-2008, 02:27 AM | #93 |
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Vehicle:1995 2.?L miami vice Heavy Metal |
Storm is right on the 90%. I had a 00 sohc 2.5 engine running off a 95 1.8 ECU. it ran fine and was fun but really lacked power below 3000 rpm compared to a stock RS. I swapped in the complete 00 harness and ECU and now it is much happier...so am I. If you're going from a 1.8 you may be so glad to have power that you don't notice...but the engine absolutely runs better with the proper ECU. Maybe this can also be adjusted with the SAFC that Storm mentioned?
The 1.8 and 2.2 flywheels are slightly lighter than the 2.5 one and if I remember correctly they all share the same mounting holes for pressure plate. I used a 2.2 clutch the first time I did this swap and it lasted about 18 months of abuse before some slippage. The issue I had with putting a 2.5 into my 96 2.2 was that it had a weird IAC that mounted directly to the 2.2 manifold to the left of the throttle body (the 1.8 does not have this which makes it easier.) I'm sure someone has tackled that by now.... Another issue is that 00 is a MAP engine and 96 2.2 is MAF...not sure if the what else you would need to change to play. |
11-22-2008, 04:30 PM | #94 |
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I rewired the plug from my EJ18 IACV to fit the external IACV on the EJ22 (and 98 EJ25D). It works just like it should. I probably should just swap to a '00 harness and be done with it....I just don't look forward to pulling the dash out. It would allow me to get an Ispeed SRS-30 flashed ECU though.....but I have a LinkECU standalone sitting on the shelf waiting to get wired in.
My issues right now are phase II related.....All is well, other than the funky plugs on the 99 EJ22 for the TPS and IACV. They can be rewired into my harness if I find the right pigtails, which is proving difficult. Currently, I'm using the '00 EJ22/EJ25 throttlebody with the correct plug for TPS and completely incompatable 6 wire IACV. My idle is 1700rpm, but I don't care.... Jay |
11-22-2008, 11:08 PM | #95 | |
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Quote:
I asking because I'm about to get a 2000 2.2L from and Impreza, and I'd like to drop it in a 1997-99 Legacy Wagon. I want to know if I should get the wiring harness (and to what extent), or the ECU. I'd likely put it in a Legacy that already had a 2.2L in it, but I might find a GT that had a 2.5L. What should I expect for compatibility? |
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11-23-2008, 12:24 PM | #96 | ||
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I'm going to bold your own words to hopefully make my point clear.
Quote:
Depending on how much work you want to do, I would leave the main harness out of the picture and reuse the wiring you have in your car currently. What year is the Legacy? The motors changed between 1997 and 1999, along with sensor changes. Jay Quote:
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11-23-2008, 12:36 PM | #97 |
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In that case I'll definitely try to pick a car that requires less work. I'll be patient and go for a 1999, but I'm not sure if I'll get an L which had a 2.2L or a GT (with extra goodies) that had the 2.5L. How much more work would it be hooking it up to a car that had a 2.5L? And how little work would I have to do if I scored a '99 that had a similar 2.2L?
Thanks, you're very helpful. |
01-22-2013, 08:49 PM | #98 |
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Vehicle:1997 brighton coupe red |
So I purchased my 97 1.8 Brighton with 99+2.5l sohc. Already swapped in Came with the 1.8 wiring ecu, throttle body and maf. It has some other manifold on it that has a 25 stamped into it, top feed injectors but no air assist.
Ran like total crap. Bogged under any throttle to a point of back fire in the intake. Tried different coils,injectors,wires settings on tps. I effed around for days. Finally I got a 98 ej25d and 98 legacy 2.5 mt ecu tossed her in using the ej25d engine harness and noticed something very interesting. There are way more wires. The ej25d had a 6 pin plug which turned out to be for the cam and crank sensors. They had two wires each and were both shielded. This was the difference in the 1.8 harness. It has two wires per sensor but one is a common line between the two. And only one shield. The wiring runs from the plugs at the firewall back to the ecu are the same way. At the ecu it has 5 lines(2.5). 4 wires on the Brighton ecu end. I got the remains of a hacked harness from the sohc 2.5 and it has the same cam /crank wiring. So I went to the yard. Pulled an auto dash harness(all they had,didn't know better) but managed to dig out the shielded cable and transplant that into my Brighton (without pulling dash and now the ej25d runs! No cel 500 or so idle (haven't adjusted yet) It stutters around 13-1400 and again at 3-4000 but I feel as though that is related to 170k engine My theory/question - To swap 97 brighton1.8 to the 99+ can you avoid doing the whole harness? And rather simply change the wiring on the cam and crank sensors from ecu to sensor? Or is this a difference in the auto/mt wiring? I'm going to try this with the sohc in about a week. Thanks for any info Photos coming soon |
01-27-2013, 01:25 PM | #99 |
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cam/crank 1.8-2.5 ej18 to ej25 swap
I did it she runs pulls, idles no cel!!
7 quick points id like to add 1.Tried the sohc 2.5 with 1.8 harness and throttle-no dice really bad stall with any gas. no idle. different cel no matter what 2.put an ej25d in and still no dice. same symptoms as above but little worse. 3.wired in the ej25 cam and crank sensors(see below for explanation) BINGO it worked. but i blew the head gasket. 4.put the ej21sohc in and it worked but no idlea and egr was now an issue as sohc did not have this. 5.I ended up putting the engine/performance to the side for a whole 12-18 months because i found some really bad rot under the drivers seat. here is the progress on that. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t212...ton-coupe.html 6. dont do what i did. cutting things up and trying to piece them together without a master plan is not a good way to go. get a whole harness for the engine you want to swap into your car. yes that means head-tail light wiring and ecu and everything inbetween. you wont use it all but you need it to do it right. Doing it right is removing all the wires from engine to ecu without cutting anything important from the donor harness then transplant these wires into your exitsing harness by removing its engine portion of wiring and transplanting all the donor stuff in. it sounds outrageously difficult but once you get the tape off the harness and look at it for hrs it will come to you. 7. removing the dash and doing a proper merge is hard. really hard. but its also a lot less stressful and less difficult than taking the route i did. in all i think ive pulled the engine at least 5 times...is that really easier than using a lot more brain and removing the dash...i think not. http://www.xcceleration.com/pinouts/...07-ECU-TCU.pdf I used my 1.8 throttle body but used a block off plate for the iac Used a 2.5 outback/rs ecu.2z (one that had egr because my engine did as well i wired in the 4 pin coil using the giude lower down on this page the color codes were dead on. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t153...wer-style.html So this is a pic of the ej18 bulkhead harness' cam and crank wires.(from ecu to bulkhead plugs) [/url] Above you can see there is one cord with three wires and a shield. it has 5 pins at the ecu but two are joined and that is connected to one wire. on the engine side these three wires are housed in the large engine plugs. below you can see the "extra plug the RS has its in the middle" [/url] You will need to d-pin one of the multi pin plugs(grey one) on the 2.5 engine harness to swap in the blue plug off the 1.8. this will be the one with all the other sensors on it(not cam and crank). use the 6 pin plug on the 2.5 engne harness for the cam/crank sensorthat way its all shielded and you wont get interfearence at the plugyou can see this in the above picture. i had to make a custom pinout for the blue plug. this will be a case by case thing but i stripped the engine harness and traced all the sensors back to the bulk head plug then pinned in the correct wires from the ecu to the bulkhead using a multi meter to cross check everything. it took about 2 nights up to 4am and was insanely hard for me.im an electric noob below is the 1.8 engine harness(cam and crank wires) at the bulkhead plug. you can see the cam and crank both share a common pin and a shield. Then here is the 2.5 one it has two dedicated wires per sensor and a sheild I spent days and days looking at wiring diagrams and pinouts and could honestly not see much difference in the 1.8 vs 2.5 cars. but when i peeled back the wiring it became clear that the main engine sensors are wired in a completely different manner. idk how it all works but my limited understanding is the 1.8s share voltage or signal and send back just one output. whereas the 2.5s have 2 sensors independedt for 2 signals. ecu probably compairs and calculates a lot off that. idk how putting the 2.5 ecu into a 1.8 harness doesnt cause an elecrical fire... Next step Find the ecu connector and peel all the insulation off the wires leading up to it. do the same between the firewall and engine plugs. locate the cam/crank sensor cable, looks like this [/url] [/url] Above is the 2.5rs bulkhead harness. i pulled the 6pin plug and the two shielded cords resposible for the cam and crank sensor.Once you have the insulation off the wires remove the top right bulkhead grommit. big old rubber thing. I used some silicone spray polish to get it slippery enough to move. I had to reach down into the firewall a bit to get the remainder of the insulation. Be carefull not to tug the harness too hard im sure you could easily wreck it. Once you get all that you can see through the fire wall into the cabin. tie/tape the 2.5 cam/crank sensor to the un-pinned 1.8 cable at the engine end and pull it into the cabin gently. again with the silicone polish. here is the 2.5 cable all pined intp the 6 pin femail/male connectors.(middle) [/url] the hard part is fishing the wiring onto the grommet and placing the pins. once you have all the pins going to where they need to go just simply tape everything up and put it all back the way subaru did it. The gist of whats going on here is i swapped the cam and crank sensor wiring from the ecu to the sensors on the engine. then running the 2.5l off the 2.5ecu Last edited by mathewb1988; 12-19-2014 at 01:40 PM. Reason: text and pics. clarification. |
03-30-2013, 08:43 AM | #100 |
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This is interesting. I wish I could edit your post to fix the pictures link!
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