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Old 02-15-2018, 10:10 AM   #1
Boostpanda04
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Default Rear wiper is stuck on!

I have a 2004 Impreza and one day, just randomly, I turned on my rear wiper to wipe the snow off and it never quit. Itís not like the switch is stuck on because it actually goes FASTER than the ďonĒ setting (I noticed this because the default has only one setting and it is ďvery slowĒ). Iím thinking itís just a relay but I have no idea weíre that is for it. I pulled the fuse out for a temporary fix. Any ideas?
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:34 AM   #2
Elbert Bass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostpanda04 View Post
I have a 2004 Impreza and one day, just randomly, I turned on my rear wiper to wipe the snow off and it never quit. It’s not like the switch is stuck on because it actually goes FASTER than the “on” setting (I noticed this because the default has only one setting and it is “very slow”). I’m thinking it’s just a relay but I have no idea we’re that is for it. I pulled the fuse out for a temporary fix. Any ideas?
Very good chance it is a broken wire in the harness that runs through the boot near the hatch hinge. They usually break near the body side of the boot. If it's not a broken wire then the park switch in the motor is broken and you will need to replace the motor.
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:10 AM   #3
Boostpanda04
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Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post
Very good chance it is a broken wire in the harness that runs through the boot near the hatch hinge. They usually break near the body side of the boot. If it's not a broken wire then the park switch in the motor is broken and you will need to replace the motor.


That is not something I have checked! Thank you. Iíll do that during my lunch break.
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Old 02-16-2018, 01:57 PM   #4
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I checked both sides and they both look fine. Guess Iíll have to take the hatch apart tonight
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:33 PM   #5
Charlie-III
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Originally Posted by Boostpanda04 View Post
I checked both sides and they both look fine. Guess Iíll have to take the hatch apart tonight
Both sides?
The break is typically inside the "rubber" tube that crosses the hinge line. If you can get to one side or the other, tug on each wire that goes into the tube to see if suddenly it pulls out. A few pounds of pull is all that is needed.

Copper, like aluminum and some other metals, "work hardens" fairly readily meaning it gets brittle with minimum bending and then it cracks. The bending in hinge lines are a source of work hardening.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:16 PM   #6
Boostpanda04
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Both sides?

The break is typically inside the "rubber" tube that crosses the hinge line. If you can get to one side or the other, tug on each wire that goes into the tube to see if suddenly it pulls out. A few pounds of pull is all that is needed.



Copper, like aluminum and some other metals, "work hardens" fairly readily meaning it gets brittle with minimum bending and then it cracks. The bending in hinge lines are a source of work hardening.


There is two of those rubber tubes you are talking about on mine. The one on the right has a bundle of wires taped together, the one on the left has only two. The one on the left is not like electrical wiring. It is very thick. Might be the washer fluid
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Old 02-16-2018, 11:07 PM   #7
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Update: took the entire interior hatch panel off. I learned a couple things. First, the stock factory panel clips are very fragile and I will now have to purchase some online. Second, I think it might be a screw on the panel causing something to act weird. When the panel was off it worked perfectly fine. I turned it on for 15 minuets and watched it work perfectly. I also turned the car on an off multiple times and it still worked. When I put the panel back on and tested it, it went wild.
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Old 02-17-2018, 03:31 AM   #8
Charlie-III
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Well, then look where the panel screws go in, is there wiring near them? May try wiggling the harness to see if it's floating around and banging into a screw wearing through the wire insulation.
I'm not really sure where that panel is.
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Old 02-17-2018, 03:28 PM   #9
Boostpanda04
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Get this, this morning I put the fuse in and turned the car on, the wiper went crazy, I open the hatch, itís back to normal speed, I close the hatch and it worked fine all day. No problems. Iím very confused
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Old 02-17-2018, 05:18 PM   #10
CosmoTheCat
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Sounds like a broken wire to me. Pull the rubber boot on the right side back, and gently pull on each wire. It may be held together by the insulation.
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:29 PM   #11
Boostpanda04
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Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
Sounds like a broken wire to me. Pull the rubber boot on the right side back, and gently pull on each wire. It may be held together by the insulation.


Iíll cut the electrical tape and check again tomorrow. Should I pull down away from the hatch or up towards it? Just to be clear lol
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:14 PM   #12
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Both sides?
The break is typically inside the "rubber" tube that crosses the hinge line. If you can get to one side or the other, tug on each wire that goes into the tube to see if suddenly it pulls out. A few pounds of pull is all that is needed.

Copper, like aluminum and some other metals, "work hardens" fairly readily meaning it gets brittle with minimum bending and then it cracks. The bending in hinge lines are a source of work hardening.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
Sounds like a broken wire to me. Pull the rubber boot on the right side back, and gently pull on each wire. It may be held together by the insulation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostpanda04 View Post
I’ll cut the electrical tape and check again tomorrow. Should I pull down away from the hatch or up towards it? Just to be clear lol
The break is typically INSIDE the rubber tube/boot, so pull away from the middle of the boot.
If pulling from inside the hatch itself, pull towards the hatch.
If pulling from the headliner, pull into the car.

Again, you only need a couple pounds of pull on each wire, if it broke off it will come right out.

Based on your description, you likely have 2 wires broken off and the broken ends are jumping the circuit.
If it didn't work at all, it could be a broken wire inside the insulation or totally broken off.
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Old 02-25-2018, 12:24 PM   #13
Boostpanda04
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Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
The break is typically INSIDE the rubber tube/boot, so pull away from the middle of the boot.
If pulling from inside the hatch itself, pull towards the hatch.
If pulling from the headliner, pull into the car.

Again, you only need a couple pounds of pull on each wire, if it broke off it will come right out.

Based on your description, you likely have 2 wires broken off and the broken ends are jumping the circuit.
If it didn't work at all, it could be a broken wire inside the insulation or totally broken off.


Sorry for the late response. I pulled on every wire and they are all tight. The only ones that moved were a yellow and black one but they were taped separate and I believe they lead to the brake light.
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:31 AM   #14
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Yellow and black you say? Look at the schematic. I do believe that has something to do with the wiper, although I really don't feel like figuring out what at this moment.

But seriously, there's a black ground, blue/white power, then a switched blue/green and yellow/black that go to the rear wiper intermittent module.

I have a feeling those last two are not parked/parked signal wires to kill power to the motor.
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