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Old 03-29-2017, 07:32 PM   #101
Zefy
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Location: Coquitlam, BC, Canada
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1979 BRAT / 01 RSTI
99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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We start this update at the machine shop. Those KW v3 coils are going to be great on the car, but at the moment, don't actually fit. These coils are meant for an 05-07 sti with 5x114 hubs. Luckily, only the front strut is different. The rear struts between 5x100 and 5x114 are the same.

So I had a few options.

Option 1: get and install 5x114 front hubs. Plus sides, oem part, easy to install, readily available. Downsides, need 5x114 wheels, brakes (5x114 gravel rotors for 4pots), and would need the rears to match.

option 2: get something like the LIC motorsports conversion hubs. Plus sides, use same wheels and brakes. Downsides, expensive and difficult to get.

Option 3: make my own conversion hubs... because I can...

Obviously I went with option 3. The wheels I got are actually dual pattern so that checks off that portion of the downsides. However my winter wheels are still 5x100 and 16" so that rules out brembo swap and 5x114. Second, to get the gravel spec rotors, it costs about $120usd each. While my centric premiums cost about $45 CND each.

Why can't I just redrill the 5x100 centric rotors to 5x114? GOOD QUESTION! The hub center is not actually big enough on the 5x100 rotors to fit the 5x114 hub. Poopy... And given that I have a couple sets of rotors and multiple sets of pads for the 4pot subaru brakes, it would have been a costly proceedure to swap everything over to 5x114. Keeping my car 5x100 is more cost effective.

With that in mind, lets get cracking. I didn't take a ton of pics of this. Was tedious and required a fair bit of attention to not mess up. I picked up some 5x114 knuckles and removed the hubs. This is mind blowingly easy on these sealed unit hubs by the way... 4 bolts and some love taps with a mallet. I got an old CV axle and turned down the outside to be as concentric as possible with the hub. Top tip, CV axles are pretty hard... Machining is annoying...

Then I chucked up the part in the rotary table on the milling machine. Check for flatness and concentricity and and start drilling. I wasn't exactly sure how precise a hub is, but it turned out good with no speed wobbles or death! yay! BTW, you need a 14mm drill bit for the studs.

RS Build (206) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Next step is to turn down the OD of the hub so your cheap 5x100 rotors will fit it. End result is something like this. I reused my ARP wheel studs (this is probably the 5th time I've reused these!) and got everything buttoned up on the car.

RS Build (230) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

RS Build (231) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

The rears went on with zero mods and drama. Thankfully my top custom top mounts worked great!

Next step! Making stuff look slightly less ghetto. At this point I have a black bumper, bright red fenders, black hood with red scoops, dark red on all the other panels, and white flares. Looks a bit mismatched... I don't really have the money or time to have a body shop unify the colour of my car so I opted to wrap it. The price was a little more reasonable and I could do it myself in my driveway...

RS Build (225) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

I chose a very similar red to stock but obviously it is a matte colour. I think it looks nice and I can't wait to finish it when it gets warmer.

RS Build (232) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

And the flare goes on!

RS Build (233) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr


Next stop was alignment and swap on those wheels pictured above! Easier said than done... The shop I took it to did a less than stellar job. I gave them a spec sheet to follow and they promptly lost it. I had to wait around for a couple hours for them to sort it out. The original alignment they gave me was flat out dangerous... If I recall it was something like -4 degrees of camber in the front and +0.5 in the rear. What is this? A drift car? This shop is supposedly known for their track prep skills... But I retold them my specs and they got it dialled in.

Got that sorted and was able to autox the next day. On one of my afternoon runs I thought I had overheated my tires or something. The back end got REALLY loose. After a visual inspection I discovered the problem...

RS Build (235) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

The shop failed to properly torque my rear strut bolts. Camber slipped mid run! Boy howdy was I mad...

Here is a video showing the failure... Good times...


Went back to the shop and got a refund and they fixed it. I had to recheck all the torques myself though just to be safe. Apparently it's "impossible" to properly torque the strut bolts... It's funny they said that because I was able to do it no problem. You just have to TAKE THE WHEELS OFF. Thinking outside the box, I know.

Next up was to get some new tires! I picked up some RE71R in 255/40/17 from costco. Cost to performance ratio is through the roof on these tires! But they don't last very long so choose wisely... Also costco has the cheapest price I've seen on these. You'll save about 30% buying in Canada, from costco, compared to even US retailers.

RS Build (238) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

This update gets us to about october of last year. I did a no passing time attack event on my new tires. I wasn't able to get a good time down but I had fun. Great way to end the track season...
received_10154562764831870_zpsjlottc1y by Greg Petroski, on Flickr
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Last edited by Zefy; 09-17-2017 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:15 PM   #102
tora
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Great build, still the best Suby model IMO.
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Old 03-31-2017, 04:16 AM   #103
terrainasaurus
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absolutely blown away at these 5 pages I have just finished going through.

amazing craftsmanship, creativity, determination and dedication to say the least. whole helluva a lot of fun from the looks. It's crazy to see how it has come to what it is now.

and it only get's better from here ^.^ P.S can I have some of those tools please?
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:57 AM   #104
Subaruman5
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Loving the continued build Greg. Keep it going. Hope to run into you this summer. Will you be around this week to stop by for a visit with my 2.5rs?
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:31 PM   #105
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subaruman5 View Post
Loving the continued build Greg. Keep it going. Hope to run into you this summer. Will you be around this week to stop by for a visit with my 2.5rs?
Ya Bryan! I'm free tonight and tomorrow night but then I have a work thing from thursday till sunday... If you still have my number, shoot me a text.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:29 PM   #106
Penphoe
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Having access to your own skills and machine tools to do the work properly, FTW! Looks awesome.

LaterZ!
Darren!!
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:20 AM   #107
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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Another update! I know you were all sitting there refreshing your browsers so here we go.

This year I decided to up my motorsport game and prep the car for running Time Attack and Hill Climb! So if you happen to be going to Knox Mountain this year, please stop by and say hi!

What do you need for running hill climbs and time attack? Well a bunch of safety gear mostly. This gets pretty expensive, real fast, so I opted to try and save money in as many places as possible.

The biggest change that needs to be made is the addition of a roll bar. Keep in mind, for CACC time attack, street catagories (SS, SP, and SPX) does NOT require a full roll cage. Only a 4 point roll bar. So that is what I built over the easter long weekend.

Given the dodgy weather we were having, I opted to invade my work for a nice space to complete this task. Loaded up all my equipment needed for the operation into my mom's outback. Thanks mom!

RS Build (254) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

We start with stripping the back seat and removing the sound deadening from the panels where the mounting plates will be placed.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-1 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Like so.

RS Build (251) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr


Next it's time to do some doodling on your headliner. I like my headliner, and it's actually going to be staying in the car, so tape was used to make my marks. These are critical measurements for designing the main hoop.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-2 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

After you've measured all the things it's time to turn that masking tape into tube. 1.75"x0.095" DOM tubing makes up the majority of this roll bar. I'm using a JD^2 model 3 tube bender with the SWAG offroad air over hydraulic conversion. Unfortunately my air assisted ram stopped working pretty much instantaneously and began pissing oil everywhere so all my bends had to be done the old fashioned way. This failure is brought to you by power fist...

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-4 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Once I got my first couple bends completed, I laid them out on a table so I can mark out my perimeter for the bar. This really helped me keep everything square and fitting tightly into the car.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-6 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

A quick little test fit as a sanity check for my measurements. It's been a while since I've used this stuff.

Two more bends and the X brace and this thing is starting to look like a proper roll bar. Only a single diagonal (driver's side head to passenger floor) is required, but I'm a sucker for symmetry and it looks cool. So X it is!

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-7 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

While it was all tacked up, I threw it back in the car to check that it still fits.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-9 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

good

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-11 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

good good

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-10 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

It doesn't get much tighter than that! Pretty happy with my first roll bar so far. At this point I called it quits for the holiday friday. More later!

Last edited by Zefy; 09-17-2017 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:35 AM   #108
Zefy
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1979 BRAT / 01 RSTI
99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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Part two of roll bar fabrication!

After test fitting the main hoop, it was time to finish weld it and add in the harness bar. The harness bar was made of 3 pieces. This is done for side impact strength and for later to have the possibility of adding a passenger side seat and harness.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-12 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Final step on the main hoop was to add some taco gussets. The bottom was plated in between the harness bar and the top is a proper taco.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-15 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-16 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

After it was all finish welded, the hoop was scuffed up with a scotch-brite pad with acetone and painted with POR15. I was really impressed with the finish I got out of a brush on finish.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-17 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

RS Build (257) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr


Next step was to prep the interior of the car. This means removing all paint and protecting the rest of the interior. I didn't remove the seats or anything beyond what I had to remove to access the places I needed to work. Some might say this is dangerous... and they're probably right.

Liberal use of welding leathers, fireproof blankets, and a water sprayer with a fire extinguisher is about as safe as I can reasonably make it without stripping the entire interior and fuel system out. I was still driving this car home every night while fabricating this. Keep in mind, if you attempt this, the fuel lines run on the INTERIOR on the driver's side. The brake lines are on the passenger side.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-14 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Fabricating the boxes is a fairly simple process if not a little time consuming. Using CAD (cardboard aided design... project binky, look it up) makes this fairly easy. This method was chosen to distribute the load better and so that I can drop the rollbar down to finish weld the rear stays.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-19 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

This was right around the time we stopped for dinner. Thanks CTOGO and Sarah for stopping by and helping out! Couldn't have finished without you. Workbench/dinner table.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-18 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

This is kind of when pictures stopped happening. The rear stays were whipped up and the main hoop was welded in. The paint was sanded off where I needed to weld but it saved painting the entire hoop with it inside the car.

Here is is all finished and painted ready for me to go home! You can see the rear stays in this photo.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-20 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Then the following week, the rear seats were modified and reinstalled! Yes, the rear seats are still in the car. No, nobody will be using them. I did it for two reasons. First, removal of the rear seats in all SP classes of time attack costs 1 point. This is 1 point I would rather spend on other things as I am only allowed 15 points and theses rear seats weigh almost nothing. Second, without the rear seats the car is SO LOUD. All the rocks and fuel pump and road noise is utter nonsense. Plus this looks better.

RS Build (259) by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

More to come!

Last edited by Zefy; 09-17-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:12 PM   #109
rs420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefy View Post
Part two of roll bar fabrication!

After test fitting the main hoop, it was time to finish weld it and add in the harness bar. The harness bar was made of 3 pieces. This is done for side impact strength and for later to have the possibility of adding a passenger side seat and harness.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-12 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Final step on the main hoop was to add some taco gussets. The bottom was plated in between the harness bar and the top is a proper taco.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-15 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-16 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

After it was all finish welded, the hoop was scuffed up with a scotch-brite pad with acetone and painted with POR15. I was really impressed with the finish I got out of a brush on finish.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-17 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr




Next step was to prep the interior of the car. This means removing all paint and protecting the rest of the interior. I didn't remove the seats or anything beyond what I had to remove to access the places I needed to work. Some might say this is dangerous... and they're probably right.

Liberal use of welding leathers, fireproof blankets, and a water sprayer with a fire extinguisher is about as safe as I can reasonably make it without stripping the entire interior and fuel system out. I was still driving this car home every night while fabricating this. Keep in mind, if you attempt this, the fuel lines run on the INTERIOR on the driver's side. The brake lines are on the passenger side.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-14 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Fabricating the boxes is a fairly simple process if not a little time consuming. Using CAD (cardboard aided design... project binky, look it up) makes this fairly easy. This method was chosen to distribute the load better and so that I can drop the rollbar down to finish weld the rear stays.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-19 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

This was right around the time we stopped for dinner. Thanks CTOGO and Sarah for stopping by and helping out! Couldn't have finished without you. Workbench/dinner table.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-18 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

This is kind of when pictures stopped happening. The rear stays were whipped up and the main hoop was welded in. The paint was sanded off where I needed to weld but it saved painting the entire hoop with it inside the car.

Here is is all finished and painted ready for me to go home! You can see the rear stays in this photo.

2017-04-14 Roll Bar Fab-20 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Then the following week, the rear seats were modified and reinstalled! Yes, the rear seats are still in the car. No, nobody will be using them. I did it for two reasons. First, removal of the rear seats in all SP classes of time attack costs 1 point. This is 1 point I would rather spend on other things as I am only allowed 15 points and theses rear seats weigh almost nothing. Second, without the rear seats the car is SO LOUD. All the rocks and fuel pump and road noise is utter nonsense. Plus this looks better.



More to come!
Beautiful work! What's your next event?

I'm going to be up at knox watching if your heading up there? Would like to see it in person. Or maybe the next time attack...
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Old 05-09-2017, 01:20 AM   #110
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs420 View Post
Beautiful work! What's your next event?

I'm going to be up at knox watching if your heading up there? Would like to see it in person. Or maybe the next time attack...
haha well the next time attack is this weekend. I think I will need to use this time to continue prep for Knox. So yes! I am going to Knox. Looking forward to seeing what i can do up on the hill.
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Old 08-21-2017, 03:10 AM   #111
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Saw you going West on Hwy 1 today. I was coming back from the historic races at Mission. The car sure looks a lot different from the day I sold it to Ken...
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:24 AM   #112
S_C_W
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Great thread, I will be referencing it alot when i finally swap an STi shortblock in place of my 2.5i. Plan on using my SOHC heads as well.
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:55 PM   #113
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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So I have to go back and replace all the dead picture links that photobucket ruined. And my sti shortblock is for sale. If you're interested, PM me!

But now, here is a review of a set of tires I've been driving on since May. Lots of updates so lets start it off with this!
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:56 PM   #114
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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I have been using a set of Zestino Gredge 07R tires for a little over three months now. I picked up the 245/40/17 size and put them on a spare set of MachV Awesome 17x9 wheels. Overall I'm very happy with these tires and I've done enough events and street driving to come up with, what I feel, is an honest review. Please note, I did get a discount on these tires.

2017-05-22 Area 27 Track Day-37 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

I have these mounted on my 2001 2.5RS Subaru. Here is how they look side by side with the RE71R. Both are mounted in the same 17x9 wheels.

20170517_183457 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

20170517_183858 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

The first event I did with these was an Area 27 track day. This was my first time there and it's a brand new track so it was exciting to get some lapping done. My fast lap of the day was a 2:39.5. Definitely lots of room for improvement but I was happy with the result. This track day was the day right after running Knox Mountain Hill Climb so it was a jam packed weekend of racing.

2017-05-22 Area 27 Track Day-30 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

You can watch my fast lap here:


I settled in to about 32psi front and 35psi rear, hot. It was a hot day as well. A little over 30 Celsius for the whole day and that track has zero shade. Tire temps were around 67 Celsius measured about 1 minute after pulling into the pits. The tires held up nicely with no worrisome wearing patterns or chunking. They also didn't really seem to flow. The rubber flaked off in a fine rubber dust. I'm guessing this is from the harder compound and the extremely new surface that Area 27 has.

As far as feel is concerned, these tires are very progressive. They never snapped out or got wildly greasy. These made them very easy to drive and gave a lot of confidence. You can hear in the video how much squalling they're doing and how little drama it causes. This is a very different driving experience compared to something like an r-comp or Bridgestone RE71-R.

I do not have any other times done at this track so it is hard to gauge how fast these tires actually are. But I have the next best thing! GG diagrams! The first graph is XY and you can see I'm able to pull about 1g lateral. Except for that +1.3g! For that you have to look at the second diagram which is YZ. This track has lots of high loading uphill sections that really make you work! You can see it in the video going from turn 4 though to 7. This sections is a real rollercoaster!

2017-05-23-xy by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

2017-05-23 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr


Overall this event was a great success and the tires held up great! They also handled the 5 hour drive home just fine. Here is how they looked at the end of the track day. Minimal wear!

2017-05-22 Area 27 Track Day-44 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

2017-05-22 Area 27 Track Day-43 by Greg Petroski, on Flickr


Continued below....
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Old 09-14-2017, 02:57 PM   #115
Zefy
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99 2.5TS (DEAD)

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The next event I did was at Mission Raceway Park. This track is one that I have far more experience at and I actually have data from other events to compare with. It was another decently warm day and the tires had about one and a half months of street driving on them and a couple of heat cycles. At this track the tires still had the nice break away characteristics and took heat well. I dropped the tire pressure to 30psi front and 33psi rear.

At Mission I was able to get down to a 1:21.7. Unfortunately I had mechanical troubles and lost boost. I was essentially running an N/A car for the remainder of the day. I'm positive I could get it into the 1:20's. But even so, here is the GG diagram from my fast lap. Looking at later sessions it looks like I found a bit more grip but the lap was overall slower because of the reduction in power.

mission Gredge by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Let's compare that one to my fast lap at mission on Bridgestone RE71R tires. My fastest lap time to date is a 1:19.3. Keep in mind, this is with a little more power and a 10mm wider tire. Definitely not a true apples to apples comparison. However the GG diagram cares less about the amount of power you're making.

mission RE71R by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

So it's pretty clear that the bridgestones have more grip. I'm able to consistently pull 1.2-1.3g in the bridgestones where as the Zestinos I'm able to get about 1.1-1.2g. This is a really good result for the Zestinos. Especially given the 10mm less width and the 240tw hard compound.

Another noteworthy point that we can see from the GG diagram is the transition from cornering to braking. In the Zestino chart, you can see the long arcing line going from the top to the left. This is turn 1 at Mission and I'm probably using as much grip as those tires can muster. My transition with the RE71R is not as arced showing I'm giving up cornering speed as I trailbrake into the turn. I feel like the Zestino is giving better feedback and inspires more confidence as the breakaway of the tire is so gradual. It makes it really easy to ride the edge of grip without going overboard.

This is how the Zestinos looked after 5 sessions at mission. They definitely got more abuse put into them compared to Area 27, but overall they held up very well. No weird wear patterns or problems with the rubber or overheating. My car is relatively gentle on tires. My RE71R tires have lasted me far longer than I thought they would. If your car is camber challenged I'm sure you could burn through these just as fast as any other tire.

20170626_145709_HDR by Greg Petroski, on Flickr

Conclusion:

The Gredge 07R is a decent track day and daily driver tire. You won't be setting any records with these (at least not the hard compound) but I am very happy with how easy they are to drive at the limit of grip. Very wide transition with lots of feedback in the wheel and in your ears. On top of that, they seem to take heat like a champ and wear really nicely.

As we head into the winter months, I will look further into the wet and cold performance of these tires.
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:56 PM   #116
Baz_sta
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Been a while since the last update. Is this car still out there?
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