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Old 01-14-2020, 03:50 PM   #1
knightangle
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Member#: 492769
Join Date: Oct 2018
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Massachustts
Vehicle:
2003 WRX Wagon
Sonic Yellow

Default Difficulty Burping EJ205 (this is a weird one)

Ya i'm pretty sure this has been covered everywhere, BUT i have not seen ANYTHING regarding my situation. I might actually be severely disabled.

For the past 3-4 months i have been having overheating issues, (do not at me, i have one car, broke boi broke.)

03 wrx with jdm ej205, no mods.

Okay here's the sitch, (i may be retarded keep that in mind):

- oil looks like oil
- coolant looks like coolant
- don't lose coolant ever, any where*
- replaced radiator with one that has a radiator cap
- replaced expansion/turbo/overflow/whateverthef*** tank with Mishimoto one, mine looked like **** happy birthday to me, thanks mom.
- replaced thermostat with OEM
- replaced timing belt and water pump with OEM
- replaced upper and lower radiator hoses
- replaced upper and lower heater core hoses
- have had flushed probs once a month in the past 4 months
- leak down test, valedictorian
- compression test, salutatorian
* only lose coolant when my actual overflow tank, ya know the one that isn't pressurized... cause its for over flow fills up all the way.

My assumption:
There is air in my system which allows coolant to boil over and flow into the overflow tank. (why air doesn't i don't know, i suck i guess) ability to burp was inhibited by radiator with no rad cap (why tf do those exist?)

I'm about to do gaskets anyway, but if any of you angels can give me any reason not to and prove i'm just completely inept like my dad thinks i am, that would be great.

ALSO
I've given it to a Subaru dealership and nearly everyone there is as perplexed as i am. All facts suggest that it isn't gaskets and air, BUT THE DAMN AIR WONT COME OUT

ALSO ALSO:
it overheats at random. Not like 15 minutes after the car is turned on or when at idle (usually headgaskets from what ive read if i remember correctly). When i push the car too hard that when it seems to overheat, again like i said above all coolant gets pooped into the overflow tank. its a PITA. SOS
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Last edited by knightangle; 01-15-2020 at 12:31 PM. Reason: More descriptive title
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:25 AM   #2
NickVu
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Member#: 27525
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Orange County
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03 wrx wagon
yellow

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besides headgaskets, blowing coolant into the overflow is either a bad rad cap, or improperly routed overflow tank.

if you want to make sure it's not the headgasket, get a large coolant funnel set, https://www.google.com/search?q=coolant+funnel

put it on the upper tank and warm up the engine with it filled with fluid. once it reaches operating temp, rev it a bit. the fluid level may fluctuate, but you shouldn't be seeing any more bubbles once the system is burped. let it idle a while until the bubbles go away, rev it occasionally to get more bubbles out. it shouldn't have massive bubbles after 30mins of idling. if there's still bubbles, try for an hour before throwing in the towel. keep an eye on the temp gauge too.
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Old 01-15-2020, 09:51 AM   #3
knightangle
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Sonic Yellow

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I do have the spill free coolant funnel. i Have been filling the radiator all the way, closing that, putting the overflow to the full line, then using the funnel on the expansion tank to burp the car. i have dead ass dedicated a full 24 hours to burping the car.

side note: Is the MAHLE gasket set the one to get? with JDM valve cover?

Under the assumption that it is either hoses mapped wrong or rad caps,

It only happens when i give it the beans. On my drive to work today, i had no problem. I didnt push the revs too high, didnt exceed more than 5 lbs of boost, didnt overheat or run hot. But yesterday on the way to work i did push the car little harder and i eventually did overheat, not just run hot.

If its either of those two, how is it that when i push the car and only when i push the car that it poops coolant into overflow?

Also i did the JDM swap and the hoses are mapped different of the back of the engine compared to the USDM one. Idk which one goes where, probs did that wrong two months ago when my hoses decided to explode.

Thank you for your response, Nick

- Matt
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Old 01-15-2020, 12:01 PM   #4
sifl
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I had one of the more unusual failures, which caused similar symptoms. 99% of the time, it's not the same issue I had, but your explanation and list of items you've already checked and replaced is helpful.

Did you test to see if you have exhaust gas in your coolant overflow?

If not, it maybe what happened to me: my original turbo housing cracked, and allowed the coolant lines to become pressurized with the intake air. Vacuum, i.e. just idling or driving easy, there was no issue. With boost, the overflow tank would fill up and/or spray coolant. It didn't happen all the time. It was only after pulling the turbo that I found the issue.
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Old 01-15-2020, 12:29 PM   #5
knightangle
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Sonic Yellow

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NEVER would have thought to look at the turbo! Ill give that a look too.
With my car, when i let off the gas and coast in gear at around 3k rpms, there is a bit of a rattle, not sure if its from turbo or tranny. Not sure if thats a sign as to whats happening?

Really appreciate your input!
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:03 PM   #6
NickVu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knightangle View Post
Also i did the JDM swap and the hoses are mapped different of the back of the engine compared to the USDM one. Idk which one goes where, probs did that wrong two months ago when my hoses decided to explode.
If your car has more than one rad cap, the topmost should be the pressure relief hose and also use a cap that allows coolant to be sucked back when the engine cools. Lower caps should be the pressure relief only style, they should have a higher release pressure than the top cap. Subaru specifically makes 2 different styles for this purpose,

https://www.google.com/search?q=suba...=lnms&tbm=isch

The ones with the tab allow coolant to be sucked back in and go on the topmost part of the car. The round ones have higher relief and do not have a back flow valve, they go on the lower part of the car.

Post some pictures of how your hoses are routed. You mentioned having an aftermarket turbo reservoir. That should be mounted as high as possible and near the turbo. And also have the tabbed 2-way cap. The relief hose should go to the lower reservoir so it could suck in coolant later on.
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:28 PM   #7
knightangle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickVu View Post
If your car has more than one rad cap, the topmost should be the pressure relief hose and also use a cap that allows coolant to be sucked back when the engine cools. Lower caps should be the pressure relief only style, they should have a higher release pressure than the top cap. Subaru specifically makes 2 different styles for this purpose,
Im referring to the two different heater core hoses, which goes to which spot.

Ill post pics later.

Currently i have the relief hose that gets "blocked" by the rad cap on the expansion tank mapped to go down to passenger side of radiator, through the metal pipe, out and into the whole in the side of the overflow tank.

For the other rad cap, i have a tabbed radiator cap, with a hose that comes off the relief and goes down through a hole i drilled in the overflow tank cap. there are two hoses in my overflow tank.

Ill get a proper rad cap for the lower radiator on my way home today, and post pictures if i didn't explain that well enough, and i certainly will for how my heater core hoses are set up.
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:34 PM   #8
NickVu
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Heater core hoses shouldn't matter. You can swap around those with no issues. If they fell out and you replaced those with silicone hoses, you'll need beefier screw clamps to hold them in. You can even pull them off by hand if reusing the factory spring clamps.

For the rad caps, the one near the turbo, that should be the tabbed cap, the reservoir should be placed as high as possible.

The one on the radiator, should be the nontabbed cap.

Reasoning is the air collects at the highest point of the system, and is relieved first. The lower cap shouldn't release pressure ahead of the upper cap, if it did it would be spitting liquid and having air collect in the upper reservoir.

Two hoses into the lower tank is fine, they should be near the bottom to suck up liquid when the engine cools. Not too low to plug themselves against the bottom. The oem hose tends to expand over time and hit the bottom.

When the car is cool, the tabbed cap will allow the hose to suck liquid back into the system. The nontabbed cap will not.

I think your hose routing is correct since both relief hoses went into the lower reservoir.
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