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Old 02-13-2006, 01:57 PM   #101
JoBoo
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Yeah thats what I would assume too. I havent put much thought into this yet, but perhaps there is some sort of non-linearity somewhere.

I guess I could set things up using the 0 deg holes and see what kind of camber I get. That would be a PITA. Im guessing it could just be the how Im measuring things, or I have a crappy camber gauge. Just checking to see what others are getting so I can narrow down what could be going on.

If others seem to be getting close to your calculations then Id say im the idiot and somethings amuck on my car or how im going about things.
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:18 PM   #102
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Most people and even alignment shops are lucky to be with in 0.5 degrees of camber. You need to especially take your floor level into consideration.
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:24 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makofoto
Most people and even alignment shops are lucky to be with in 0.5 degrees of camber. You need to especially take your floor level into consideration.

Yeah, thats true. Havent measured it. I guess I was assuming that since its a poured concrete floor its pretty flat. Now that you mention it, Im not sure how good of an assumption that is.. Ill check it tonight.

Alignments for camber should be better than 0.5 degree for good alignment rack setups. camera based or Hunter ones can read +/- 0.1 so I imagine you should be good to 0.2 degree at the worst.
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:28 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makofoto
Most people and even alignment shops are lucky to be with in 0.5 degrees of camber. You need to especially take your floor level into consideration.
I think what is nice about the charts is that they are a quick reference to a ballpark as to how much you are loosing vs gaining based on how exreme an angle you pick.

Mak - don't you have a smart camber gauge, or was that mundi. I'd like to pick one up and try it out this season, you could also use it in this situation.
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Old 02-13-2006, 02:50 PM   #105
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Quick question- when you guys are modifying the plates- what are you using for the new studs?
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Old 02-13-2006, 03:45 PM   #106
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I just pressed them out, drilled new holes, and pressed them back in.

I used a 5/16 bit and it seems to work pretty well keeping enough interference to get a solid press fit. All these really need to do is stay in with enough metal behind the head so they dont pull through.

If with repetative insertions and removal, the stud gets loose, I think you could just epoxy them in there or worst case get a washer and it'll be fine. its not taking any tensile or compressive loads, its just holding the plate to the strut tower, and taking shear loads.
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Old 02-13-2006, 11:16 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04_wrx_platinum
Quick question- when you guys are modifying the plates- what are you using for the new studs?
ARP makes just about any fastener you could ever need, if you couldnt reuse the original ones.
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:27 AM   #108
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Grade 8 stainless bolts will be more than adequate. ARP is definatly a high quality part. You can also check out TRIDENT FASTNERS out of the UK.

I do not let a car go out of my shop with more than .1 degree camber varience from what the setup I am doing specifys.

.5 almost every driver I know (including my mother and girlfriend) feel that much difference. If your allignment shop can not do better than that, find a nother shop or ask them to recaliberate their machine / lift / setup.

-mark
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Old 02-14-2006, 12:28 PM   #109
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So I checked my floor, its really flat

so Im still wondering if others can verify CH's calculated numbers from actual alignments..
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Old 03-09-2008, 11:00 PM   #110
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Thinking of making some custom plates and cannibalizing the bearing carrier from either my Cusco or Tein plates (long story) and stumbled across this thread.

Cusco and Tein both have a 15 space index range but the Cusco "O" is -10 to +5 and the Tein is -12 to +3. I think in pure camber adjustment each space is .2* but it's been along time and mine are rotated now.

In this configuration I'm still caster challenged but even with my camber bolt at full Positive I can get -3 or more, on unmodded plates. This is with my GC8 sitting at 13.125".

Last edited by Richard A.; 03-09-2008 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 03-09-2008, 11:41 PM   #111
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member #79 bringing a thread back from the depths..

Last edited by crystalhelix; 12-24-2008 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:00 PM   #112
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Great thread, I'd like to do this mod to my plates eventually. Damn I wish we had a Mill at work..
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:52 PM   #113
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Since someone else brought this thread back...

I have a couple spare upper plates I made for the Teins when I had mine made. These are set back so you have added caster while giving you the normal camber adjustments so you can change from street to track/autox without effecting caster. They are pretty much a drop in replacement for Tein coilovers. Can be installed in about 15 minutes.

I'm clearing out my old parts now and am willing to just sell these below what it cost me to get them made. PM me for more info.

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Old 03-26-2008, 09:26 PM   #114
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a while back I jacked up my stocker right wheels and right side camber plate when I drove over something heavy and concrete. My bad but at least I didn't wreck the car. I'll take two bent wheels and a camber plate over a bent coilover or body work any time.

Bought a used wheel off some guy. Need one more, but the least bent one's now on the rear. The shaking/shimmy has subsided significantly.

Bought some replacement camber plates off one of the local members of the Flat4. I had the slots elongated and the installation angle clocked to 55 degrees from stock. So now rather than camber plates, I have camber/castor plates. With these changes I get slightly less camber adjustment than before (-1.82 vs -2) but can now add up to 2.6 degrees of caster. "Ooooooo!", I hear you say. That castor should make up for the loss in camber.

I also had to clearance some areas on the ball joint base that I didn't anticipate would be a problem.

Here's some camber/caster plate pron:


Last edited by 68Cadillac; 06-03-2009 at 07:56 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:26 AM   #115
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I just read this entire thread, and realized that it has become more of a talk about modifying the cusco plates to gain caster than a talk of what plates are availalbe. PDE and Noltec/MRT are NOT the only plates available. In the lower price range Whiteline has plates availalbe, medium price range K-Max makes plates and in the high price range you can find HKS plates. And yes, those are all camber and caster adjustable. That said, I will mention that the Noltec/MRT and Cusco plates are both designs that sometimes warp. The PDE plates are the easiest to readjust over and over again, however, changing setting means toe, etc. is off and you should really re-align the car. The Noltec/MRT plates also have the issue of the bearing seaming to be more likely to fail then on other brands (or, maybe I was just unlucky with mine?). If I had to recommend what I though was the best design, regardless of price, Whiteline and HKS would get my recommendation. If you want to change your setting each time you autocross the car PDE is the best choice. If you want the cheapest, redrill the Cusco plates. By the way, while more caster does make the car feel quite great, I noticed that excessive adjustment through plates had a negative effect on bump-steer. So for those of you that are driving off-road or on rought roads, extra caster and more easily damaged than stock topmounts would not be a good choice for that application.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:45 AM   #116
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A rarely discussed plate is the Eibach/SPC plate. It looks more like the Noltec comfort plates with a urethane insert to reduce NVH. I just bought a set, so I'll report back if they fail prematurely like the Noltec's were reported to do. It does have multiple bolting positions so you can angle the camber adjustment to gain caster at the same time, however, their range of adjustment in both dimensions is fairly limited.

Frank
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:05 PM   #117
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This is great stuff. I am just curious how to remove and replace the stud without denting/bending the plate. Knowing me, I would just use a vise and a BFH. Any other preferred methods?
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:12 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1MPSONS View Post
This is great stuff. I am just curious how to remove and replace the stud without denting/bending the plate. Knowing me, I would just use a vise and a BFH. Any other preferred methods?
Super easy, big C clamp kind that threads, a socket and a flange type nut to put on the threads of the studs, use the C clamp to push the studs out, using the socket on the back to catch them.
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:14 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Token-Negro View Post
Super easy, big C clamp kind that threads, a socket and a flange type nut to put on the threads of the studs, use the C clamp to push the studs out, using the socket on the back to catch them.
I get it now, thanks.

BRILLIANT!

Also found this post in the earlier pages and thought it was helpful info for hole sizing and machining techniques.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccanixx View Post
I think that would depend on the type of tire your running. R-compound or street, and the width. Wide r-compounds do not need as much camber.

If you look at mine, you'll see I picked a spot where if I went any further I'd start losing camber. I used the right on the left and the left on the right. With the plates off the car. I took an old aluminium street sign and marked the bolts, on the sign, by tapping it with a hammer. Drilled the sign so i had a template. Came to the conclusion the bolt holes needed to be rotated 3/4" from where they were. I pressed the old bolts out with a socket and vise, there splined just like a wheel stud. Found the appropriate bit, marked and drilled the plates. Pressed the studs back into there new holes. Put the plates back on the car and used a sharpie to mark the strut tower opening. I left it about a 1/16" away from the shock tower. I think I used an 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" hole saw, layed out and used a center punch and drilled the hole. Used a jig saw and a file to finish it off. I think I used a 1/4" drill for the allen head pinch bolts. Jig saw and file to finish off.

Reinstalled and marveld at my new found cambar and castor.

I use fairly narrow street tires, obviously STX.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:53 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccanixx View Post
I think that would depend on the type of tire your running. R-compound or street, and the width. Wide r-compounds do not need as much camber.

If you look at mine, you'll see I picked a spot where if I went any further I'd start losing camber. I used the right on the left and the left on the right. With the plates off the car. I took an old aluminium street sign and marked the bolts, on the sign, by tapping it with a hammer. Drilled the sign so i had a template. Came to the conclusion the bolt holes needed to be rotated 3/4" from where they were. I pressed the old bolts out with a socket and vise, there splined just like a wheel stud. Found the appropriate bit, marked and drilled the plates. Pressed the studs back into there new holes. Put the plates back on the car and used a sharpie to mark the strut tower opening. I left it about a 1/16" away from the shock tower. I think I used an 1 1/2" or 1 1/4" hole saw, layed out and used a center punch and drilled the hole. Used a jig saw and a file to finish it off. I think I used a 1/4" drill for the allen head pinch bolts. Jig saw and file to finish off.

Reinstalled and marveld at my new found cambar and castor.

I use fairly narrow street tires, obviously STX.
Much easier just to buy someone's already modded plates
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Old 12-23-2008, 08:46 PM   #121
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know anyone with a set pre hacked for sale?
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:20 AM   #122
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DOes anyone know if the Cusco REAR camber plates bolt up to Tien Flex for 06 STI?
thanks
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:18 PM   #123
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Sorry for bumping this thread, but is there a consensus on which camber plates give you the most negative camber?
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:49 PM   #124
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How much camber do you want? If its 2.5-3.0 with a VA, then I would think any of them would work. If you want serious autocross negative camber (more than 4.0) you might be able to get it with camber plates, the factory eccentric bolt and additional Whiteline or SPC camber bolts. If that doesn't work, then you would need custom camber plates. Competitive STH cars have 4+ degrees of negative camber.

Last edited by yellowblur; 11-24-2021 at 04:34 PM.
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