Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday August 16, 2018
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Interior & Exterior Modification

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-08-2018, 08:28 AM   #26
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoeLeeFuQQ View Post
I made a video explaining this on my YouTube channel.

https://youtu.be/0fsv9oaYKiU
Great option! I talked with someone in my FB group who soldered into thier c-light wiring and stated that it doesn't dim for them on the 18- so may try that first and if something is weird go with the add a fuse route! Huge thanks for putting this vid together showing this. Was going to say you could always dremel out a small space for wiring to come out so it doesn't get pinched at all.

Thanks again!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 04-08-2018, 09:42 AM   #27
HoeLeeFuQQ
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 465158
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Boston
Vehicle:
2016 Subaru WRX STi
Pure Red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Senfinger View Post
Great option! I talked with someone in my FB group who soldered into thier c-light wiring and stated that it doesn't dim for them on the 18- so may try that first and if something is weird go with the add a fuse route! Huge thanks for putting this vid together showing this. Was going to say you could always dremel out a small space for wiring to come out so it doesn't get pinched at all.



Thanks again!


No Problem Hope it helps out more people. Have a great day.
HoeLeeFuQQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 11:18 AM   #28
ryanbartlette
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483670
Join Date: Mar 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Senfinger View Post
When tapping into high beam did they dim differently or stay on at full brightness?
I havent tried tapping into the high beam, but I would think that would disable the DRL when the low beam kicks on no? I'll give it a try though and see what happens
ryanbartlette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 11:19 AM   #29
ryanbartlette
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 483670
Join Date: Mar 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoeLeeFuQQ View Post
I made a video explaining this on my YouTube channel.

https://youtu.be/0fsv9oaYKiU
Awesome thanks for the video, I will give this a shot! Where did you get that fuse adaptor from?
ryanbartlette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 04:54 PM   #30
anarekist
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 468117
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Southern Cali
Vehicle:
2017 WRX
DMG

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
I havent tried tapping into the high beam, but I would think that would disable the DRL when the low beam kicks on no? I'll give it a try though and see what happens
i tapped the high beam and the low beam so they stay on all the time
anarekist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 04:57 PM   #31
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
i tapped the high beam and the low beam so they stay on all the time
Even when the car is off or? Or you saying if you tap into the power of the high beam and the low beam they are on all the time? Just got mine in today = )
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 05:01 PM   #32
anarekist
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 468117
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Southern Cali
Vehicle:
2017 WRX
DMG

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Senfinger View Post
Even when the car is off or? Or you saying if you tap into the power of the high beam and the low beam they are on all the time? Just got mine in today = )
the latter, when ever my low beam or high beam is on, they come on too. so basically all the time unless i have my parking brakes on.
anarekist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 05:05 PM   #33
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by anarekist View Post
the latter, when ever my low beam or high beam is on, they come on too. so basically all the time unless i have my parking brakes on.
That's super cool; so did you tap both high and low on them- or cut, splice and solder...

Guessing they stay full brightness too without dimming which is what I was unsure about by tapping into the drl directly...
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 05:33 PM   #34
anarekist
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 468117
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Southern Cali
Vehicle:
2017 WRX
DMG

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Senfinger View Post
That's super cool; so did you tap both high and low on them- or cut, splice and solder...

Guessing they stay full brightness too without dimming which is what I was unsure about by tapping into the drl directly...

i just used two fuse taps, both leading to the power wire for the DRL bezel lights.

anarekist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 05:55 PM   #35
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Awesome pic! What harness is that and also what is the one to the right? (I know they are add-a-fuse's etc...) But details = ) Huge thanks...
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 06:03 PM   #36
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Also the crazy big un-used black female plugs... did you just zip tie it nicely behind the ballast. Also, did the bolt and nuts go tight... heard some people had to get spacers/to loose.
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2018, 06:18 PM   #37
anarekist
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 468117
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Southern Cali
Vehicle:
2017 WRX
DMG

Default

used the subispeed wiring harness, but in hindsight, it would have been pretty easy to just make my own. oh well.

the one to the right is for my additional 2 hella horns, lol

yeah, the one being covered by the tap is the fuse puller stock location, couldn't use it anymore because of the tap.

as for the others female connections.. duno they were not occupied. maybe something on the limited version, i have the premium trim.

i just zipped tied my ballast to the bumper support beam, once you take off the bumper cover you'll see, there's lots of options on how to mount and tuck everything in, i think i left the majority of the wires near the window wiper fluid container.
anarekist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2018, 02:23 PM   #38
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

So I tested tapping into the red and black (Green) 3-wire Plug under the height adjuster going into headlight.

It works perfect and stays full brightness in all modes, however were people aren't happy is when the E-Brake goes up it dims and the jdm drl doesn't and appear to be different temps... Not sure how that will look but that's what you get... No power to them when off.
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2018, 02:24 PM   #39
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

So I was wondering what would happen if you plugged the power into DRL Green Wire and Y'd out of that... would it dim down and up with the C-Light or and unplugged vs plugged too?...

Or do we even have a DRL Resistor on 18 Headlights lol
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 10:26 PM   #40
HoeLeeFuQQ
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 465158
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Boston
Vehicle:
2016 Subaru WRX STi
Pure Red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
Awesome thanks for the video, I will give this a shot! Where did you get that fuse adaptor from?


Ijdmtoy came attach to wire. Bought it from amazon.
HoeLeeFuQQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2018, 11:03 AM   #41
Senfinger
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 110912
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Brentwood, TN
Vehicle:
2018 STi
WRB

Default

Alright, so I have been meaning to come back into this thread and update my install... Other than a issue with a deformed jdm drl plastic cover that I'm currently working on a replacement.

1) I ran the JDM DRL into the current C-Light DRL Wiring... basically that 3 wire plug right under the height adjuster on a 18 STI
Tapped the +/- from each and ran both sides the same way to ballast via Solder/Super 80 Electric Tape. The JDM DRL works perfect and at full power-
I tested all the modes via off and cranked and connected to battery direct.
So no dimming at this point.

HOWEVER> the issue is actually on the OEM STI C-Light... it carries more power and lights up brighter from factory than the JDM DRLs when the E-Brake goes down. When its up or lights are on it dims the oem C-Light to same level as the JDM DRL.

I will say this that even though the JDM DRLs with full power aren't as bright the color and level of brightness is off but distance still looks amazing and "right". IMHO>


Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
I have the JDM DRL wired up with the low beams. They kick on when the headlights turn on. I also have automatic headlights. I originally wired them up with the c-light DRLs but found the brightness of the JDM DRLs was significantly lower than the actual c-light DRLs, and I couldnt figure out why. It seems the stock c-light DRLs actually dim a bit once the headlights turn on, so the brightness of the JDM DRLs match that lower brightness when the headlights are on. But, I would LOVE if I could tap into whatever wire powers the c-light DRLs so that they turn on with them at full brightness, then dim to the same level when the headlights kick on. Anyone have any more information on the schematics or any success on wiring these up properly?

In all the videos I've seen from Subaru, the JDM DRLs light up the same brightness as the c-light DRLs even with the headlights turned off. I just want the JDM DRLs to function exactly the same as the c-light DRLs
Senfinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2018, 01:24 AM   #42
transmutation
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 467769
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Vehicle:
2018 STI Limited
WRB

Default

I finally got around to finishing this project and wanted to update my thread in case it helps anyone else looking to do something similar.

Economatic's advice was spot on but I quickly got overwhelmed looking at relays and wiring options so i ended up purchasing a universal LED harness from Superbrightleds.com. I then modified the harness slightly by bypassing the included switch and tapping into the unused relay location as noted by Hoeleefuqq above. This saved the effort of running wires through the firewall and no factory wiring was modified.

End result is that my JDM DRL's turn on when the car starts and stay on until the car is turned off. At a later point I plan to look into tapping the E-brake location so that the JDM DRL's work the same as the limited C-lights. Only thing I wish was changed is for the DRL's to stay on with the headlights/fogs for the 30 seconds after the car shuts off. Not a huge deal though and I'm happy with the outcome. I also note the DRL's appear to be the same brightness as the C-light.

If anyone has any questions I'm happy to answer what I can.

Last edited by transmutation; 05-27-2018 at 01:35 AM.
transmutation is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2018, 04:52 PM   #43
Dr. Dirty
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 486624
Join Date: May 2018
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: NC
Vehicle:
18 STI
DGM

Default

Slight bump tp this thread. Just installed these today and wired them into the DRL wires coming out of headlight harness. Stripped the 10 ga wire and soldered. Black/Blue wire for passenger, and Black/Green for drivers. Works perfectly for me. Lights come on with DRL C-lights and stay on for low and high beams. Grounded each black wire down on the frame below at existing grounds.
Dr. Dirty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2018, 07:04 PM   #44
Ryanericw
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 487582
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

None of these solutions are 100% for the 18 STI. I tried the subiespeed harness in the hi/lo spots in the fuse panel but they only come on with the lights. Meaning the clights would be illuminated and not the jdm leds until the actual projectors were on. Thats not right. If you hook these to the light sensor on that 3 pin connector, that is an ign on source, not a clight source. Meaning the LEDs will stay on with power on, even if the clights are off. That is not the clight harness. You can verify this by unplugging that 3 pin connector then turn the lights on. The clights still come on. That's also not right.

I feel like I may have come the closest to making this work 100% like the clights except I cannot figure out how the dimming is done.

After screwing around in the 7200 page FSM I came to the conclusion the C lights are not running lights they have nothing to do with the DRL relay. They are called Clearance lights. The fuse that powers them seems to be the 15A lighting fuse under the hood. When you pull it they no longer come on. So after extensive testing for power and ground under all conditions on the headlight harness connector I found that pins 6/7 are the best choice for now.

However the use of diodes is required on each pin, then Y the connection to the red led wire. Grounded on the frame.

Tested with car running, off, and in accessory parking brake up/down, lights in all four modes on the stalks, the leds ONLY come on now when the clights come on. However like I said they dont change brightness.

The purpose of the diodes is to prevent backfeeding into each circuit. And because each wire only powers the lights under certain conditions.

I might make a youtube video and post tomorrow

---------------------

Update here's a video showing the connections (it'll be done uploading in 10minutes)


Last edited by Ryanericw; 06-25-2018 at 01:30 PM.
Ryanericw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 11:16 AM   #45
Ryanericw
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 487582
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

Here's a quick wiring schematic

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eV3oCNAm3m9BRTWe7
Ryanericw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 11:43 AM   #46
transmutation
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 467769
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Vehicle:
2018 STI Limited
WRB

Default

Nicely done and well documented video. What foglight kit and wiring scheme did you end up using?
transmutation is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2018, 12:27 PM   #47
Ryanericw
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 487582
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by transmutation View Post
Nicely done and well documented video. What foglight kit and wiring scheme did you end up using?
Thank you, the foglight kit is from subiespeed, they are the the Morimoto XB LED Fog Lights with JDM S4 Bezels, Fog light switch, interior switch panel, oem mounting hardware, and foglight harness supplied.

It looks and functions like factory with the switch inside the car. It receives power from the battery + post, grounds at the bolt locations by the engine, and has 1 wire that runs inside to activate the fog relay which is apart of a standalone harness.

This was the best way to add a "factory like" fog light option to the 18 STI with a functional, operational switch inside that looks OEM.

Here's a google album of the install:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2FFGSPetf7y9BMk67

OEM Switch Panel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NhNgRhFrDvmAqgQo6

Modified Switch Panel w/New Fog Switch Installed
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2txXhkCudfi6Ffcs8
Ryanericw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2018, 11:58 AM   #48
transmutation
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 467769
Join Date: May 2017
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Vehicle:
2018 STI Limited
WRB

Default

Cool thanks, looks like a great shop setup! Do the new dimmer and fog switches light up red to match the rest of the interior or are they the older yellow color?
transmutation is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:28 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.