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Old 05-16-2012, 12:48 PM   #76
Magnum626
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Stockpiling parts...

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$1100? Yikes!

I still havent had mine fixed for almost 4 years now...I'm afraid of prices like that. Just gotta find someone who can sneak me into their shop and pick up an expansion valve...
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Old 05-19-2012, 06:01 PM   #77
1nickolas
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2004 Subaru WRX STi

Default busted condenser

First of all thanks to txl146 for making this thread, lots of good need-to-know info here that I did not know. Second, thanks to stikboy9 for the tip about borrowing a vacuum for autozone. Third, thanks to HellaWRX for the tip about rockauto.com, way easier to deal with than classic radiators on Ebay.

I haven't had A/C for at least a couple years now. Hard to say exactly because I just got my license back. I was told last week by the shop that a vacuum test proved I have a leak in the system, and that it is bone-dry. Today my neighbor (big car guy) tried putting freon/die into the system to try to spot the leak. Didn't put a can in before realizing that it was just spraying back out from somewhere in front of the radiator, but the compressor IS working at least. I didn't have a UV light on hand but it was fairly easy to trace the source of the loud hissing sound. Looking closer at the condenser I noticed the mounts at the bottom are both broken and hanging in the air, and the condenser is bent in toward the radiator so badly I can't even pull it forward enough to line up the mounts with the holes. Never noticed that before, but time to get a new condenser.

So basically this is my plan, using methods prescribed in this thread, after I just doublecheck with a UV light to confirm it isn't possibly a bad O-ring:

1. Order condenser/removable dryer from rockauto
2. Replace the condenser/dryer, and any O-rings I see, without removing the radiator
3. Get ahold of a vacuum and get any moisture out of the system, while leak testing (or have someone do it for me)
4. Fill it back up with oil/freon mixture

BTW, I considered using a can with leak-stop for all of about 5 seconds, as I don't want complications down the road from plugged lines.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:31 AM   #78
randy ortan
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Very very informatic post..I like this one. gotta bookmark this one.

Last edited by Unabomber; 02-15-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:41 PM   #79
rjseyer
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First off, thanks for all the information in this thread! I'm about to replace most of the AC parts on my 02 wrx: condensor, compressor, expansion valve. When I bought the car the previous owner said the compressor locked up on him and he never got it replaced.
I had a question on flushing the system to eliminate any metal particles that are in the lines after the compressor failure. Do I need to flush the system before I install the new parts or can I install everything and have a shop just flush the high and low pressure lines independently? I'm planning on calling a shop on Monday to ask them this question, but I had some free time and wouldn't mind getting started on the job this weekend if possible.

Has anyone had any experience with this?

Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:13 AM   #80
my0six
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Hey guys, sorry to rebirth a dead thread, but has anybody ever replaced their dryer WITHOUT replacing the condenser? I've just swapped my compressor out and now I'm looking at the thing like: "it's one bolt, surely I don't have to take my rad out???"
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:24 PM   #81
samadams9
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About the drier replacement, I've done it before. It can be done while condenser is on the car and fairly easy except installing new o-ring can be a bit of pain.
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Old 07-18-2016, 04:26 PM   #82
samadams9
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To the original poster, or others with experiences, how is the aftermarket expansion valve from Autozone working out? My main concern is the fitment.
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:28 AM   #83
xFLHCx
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Reviving a fantastic dead thread.

My compressor clutch wheel sticks. I can drive for anywhere from 5-30 minutes in Florida heat before the compressor clutch sticks and I no longer have AC. If I rev my engine to ~5.5 - 6k RPM, it'll sometimes kick back on. If it is off and I take a wrench to the clutch wheel and just quickly jab it, it unsticks and kicks back on.

I am assuming I need to replace my compressor only. Good assumption?
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Old 07-06-2017, 07:05 PM   #84
rick-l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xFLHCx View Post
Reviving a fantastic dead thread.

My compressor clutch wheel sticks. I can drive for anywhere from 5-30 minutes in Florida heat before the compressor clutch sticks and I no longer have AC. If I rev my engine to ~5.5 - 6k RPM, it'll sometimes kick back on. If it is off and I take a wrench to the clutch wheel and just quickly jab it, it unsticks and kicks back on.

I am assuming I need to replace my compressor only. Good assumption?
Sounds like the electromagnet is not pulling in the clutch. I think you can take the plate off and adjust the clearance with shims.
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:11 PM   #85
Elbert Bass
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Put an AC clutch relay in it.
Betcha cold beer that's the fix.

I'm partial to a good unfilter wheat beer or a grapefruit radler that ain't too hoppy...
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:14 AM   #86
redrexmeister
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SRR

Default ac repair

I am inspired by this thread to attempt diy ac repair. Couple of questions to clarify:

- for leak detection better use dye or sniffer?

- on 04 wrx receiver dryer can be replaced w/o replacing condenser, right?

- what is a better way to add oil in the system, ie from a pressurized can or using mechanical device attached to low pressure port? pressure can may not be precise?

- can I just add oil gravimetrically directly in the new part b4 it gets installed

- when you vacuum system you only remove refrigerant and not the oil so that you calculate oil needed strictly based on parts being replaced?
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Old 08-16-2019, 11:49 AM   #87
Papparob
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Default More info

Any chance you can point me to the torque specs for the a/c compressor? Having trouble locating them and starting this job this afternoon. Mine is an O4 impreza 2.5l
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:16 AM   #88
Disfigured
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Thank you for this write up!
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