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Old 09-08-2019, 03:55 PM   #1
cjweaver13
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Default Excessive oil consumption during break in or not?

Just had short block and other engine parts such as cams, valve shims etc... replaced on my 2012 Subaru through warranty due to excessive oil consumption. Has about 800 miles on it since replacement and I just checked oil to find it barely is on minimum hole on dipstick after letting sit for 10 minutes. Is this normal for break in or out of the ordinary? I will wait for engine to completely cool and add to full mark, or do oil change if necessary.
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:09 PM   #2
jasonwrx86
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I would say some oil consumption during break in is normal.
But almost a qt at 1000 mile is still pretty high.
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Old 09-11-2019, 08:40 PM   #3
Waddlz
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yeah that seems a bit excessive. but not totally out of the ordinary.

What did Subaru say for break in? did they just hand you the car and send you on your merry way?

I just replaced the engine in a 2009 Forester with the EJ253 and even doing a bunch of engine braking to seat the rings it only burned maybe 1/4 of a quart.
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:52 PM   #4
CosmoTheCat
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I'd check the PCV valve. That's supposed to be checked during the oil consumption test, but I don't think most techs are going to get into it for what Subaru pays.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:42 AM   #5
KillerBMotorsport
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PCV valve is an easy check, and they are cheap to just replace.

After that it's removing the intercooler and the downpipe (possibly headers) to track down where the oil is coming from. After that, it's compression and leak-down time to try and narrow down the search.

As others have said, and I agree, that is excessive even for break-in.

The Subaru dipstick is also pretty terrible, so you want to be very sure that when you're checking the oil, you do it EXACTLY the same way every time to try and reduce the variables that can cause inconsistent readings.

You want to set yourself up for repeatable and accurate feedback if this ends up getting messy with the dealer. You're likely in this for a couple of thousand miles more before anything would actually 'happen' with a repair, so document what you do and make sure you're staying in contact with the dealer just to let them know and further document your observations.
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Old 09-29-2019, 09:44 AM   #6
Boxcar80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
The Subaru dipstick is also pretty terrible, so you want to be very sure that when you're checking the oil, you do it EXACTLY the same way every time to try and reduce the variables that can cause inconsistent readings.
This is very true. Especially if checking cold oil after you have shut down the engine. I normally check the oil after it has sat over night.
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Old 06-05-2020, 12:46 PM   #7
FXT hotbox
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Default Break in period

Hi all, new to this site, and I am hoping to get a little help here as I didnt get much on the forester site. I had a rod spin on the original block, after tearing it down realized it was the turbo that caused this. I am rebuilding it with a new stock block from subaru. What I am curious of, what should the break in period should be for subaru ( this is the first one I have owned) and mind you, I have upgraded the full exhaust with headers back and actually bought a tdo6 turbo for it. But hindsight is always 20/20 and decided to get another turbo that is close to stock to run the break in period because I dont have a tune for the new turbo and not sure I want to throw it on a dyno right after it is built. I know I want to give it a good shake down run with original style turbo first to make sure everything is sealed up and good. So then again, my question, how long of a break in period should I go with before putting any real strain on the short block?
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Old 06-05-2020, 04:16 PM   #8
Samurai Jack
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First, do not run the engine w/out a tune. You do not have to have a full tune session.

Contact a reputable tuner and they can provide you with a base tune to run the car on. You have to give them the details of what you have so they can code one correctly. Typically, the cost of the base tune is deducted from the full tune once you have the full tune done.

As far as break-in period, there are 2 typical schools of thought, Conservative and Aggressive:
- Aggressive - Drive it like you stole it from Day 1. Basically, beat the piss out of and who cares anyway?

- Conservative - Drive it for 4000 miles varying engine speed, keeping it under 4000 RPM. This means a lot of side road driving, around town, short highway, where you are stopping and starting a lot. This allows varying conditions for the rings to seat. If you go a little over 4K RPMS, o real harm done. Getting on the highway and driving a long trip at a constant speed is contrary to what you want to do.

Choose the version you want. Everyone is going to tell you which one you * should * do.

My personal preference is the Conservative approach and I have little to no engine issues.

Others will tell you the opposite.
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:26 AM   #9
FXT hotbox
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Quote:
First, do not run the engine w/out a tune. You do not have to have a full tune session.
Thanks for the quick reply!! Greatly appreciated. I do have the Cobb AP that if I go back with a close to stock turbo I can use. Would that be ok to do so with the setup I have from your opinion? And as far as doing a conservative break in, I would agree with doing that, and I live out in a small town so thats not hard to do lol.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:05 PM   #10
Samurai Jack
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I have zero experience w/the Cobb AP so I don't know what maps are / are not installed and available to upload.

I presume you are going to do all tuning via the AP.

I am going to presume these have a base map of some sort. That would be your best option. That should / will get you running. Run that for a little while and you can see how everything is running and work out the details for any issues.

Once you work out the basics and are sure everything is OK, then maybe install a more appropriate tune and follow whatever break-in procedure you choose.
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