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Old 09-13-2019, 08:00 AM   #1
F1SC
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Hi guys,

Iím having the age old mental battle - FA20 WRX vs STI. The car will be a daily but also entered in many track days and targa events.

Iím leaning towards the WRX mainly because of the engine. What id like to know is how much do I realistically need to spend (on a budget) and what modifications do I need to do to get it somewhere near the STIís performance around the track.

Iím thinking -
-track pads and upgraded rotors and fluid
-Maybe coilovers but stock suspension seems ok?
-AD08R tyres
-Whiteline sway bar kit, bushings etc
- J pipe
- Stage 2 tune
- Viscous LSD already Standard in AUS model

I should be able to do all the above done well under the price gap to the STI and with a more reliable engine under 300whp.

Would these mods bring it basically in line with an STI in the hands of your amateur track day guy?

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:15 AM   #2
Jack
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Do you plan to actually compete or are you just lapping for fun.

If you're competing, break out the rule book. This will guide you. When I ran showroom stock, I had a limit on tires and wheels, so buying those were my first, and biggest performance investment. Next was shocks. Springs could not be touched. I would call Carbotech and tell them the car, the weight and the power (they assume nothing, so have these numbers ready) and place an order for pads. I'd buy a set of track rotors (anything without hole, bunny shape or slots would be fine....Brembo blanks have nice internal vanes to direct airflow, but honestly, a $10 Rock Auto rotor is fine). I would run the track pads/rotors only on track days. I also ran a Simpson 3" competition lap belt along with the stock 3 point. This really held me in place in the seat. If you're a student, you'll need the same for your instructor.

If you're instead just lapping and not seriously competing, then the above will work, but you can do more or less as you wish. I mean.....if you were serious about the track, you'd be running a Miata, right?
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Old 09-13-2019, 08:24 AM   #3
F1SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
Do you plan to actually compete or are you just lapping for fun.

If you're competing, break out the rule book. This will guide you. When I ran showroom stock, I had a limit on tires and wheels, so buying those were my first, and biggest performance investment. Next was shocks. Springs could not be touched. I would call Carbotech and tell them the car, the weight and the power (they assume nothing, so have these numbers ready) and place an order for pads. I'd buy a set of track rotors (anything without hole, bunny shape or slots would be fine....Brembo blanks have nice internal vanes to direct airflow, but honestly, a $10 Rock Auto rotor is fine). I would run the track pads/rotors only on track days. I also ran a Simpson 3" competition lap belt along with the stock 3 point. This really held me in place in the seat. If you're a student, you'll need the same for your instructor.

If you're instead just lapping and not seriously competing, then the above will work, but you can do more or less as you wish. I mean.....if you were serious about the track, you'd be running a Miata, right?
Thanks for the reply mate, some good info there, did you change wheels because of weight? The events I compete in are open class, they are timed but I enter them for fun, no way I’d be competitive in the awd class. I’m more wanting to know if I did those mods if I’d be similar to a stock STI around your average track or am I spending money on mods in vain and I won’t get close with the DCCD/diffs, Brembos, hydraulic steering etc. I’d just hate to do it all and think “I should have just got an STI and risked the EJ25 issues, but if it’s close I’m not to bothered then.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:45 AM   #4
guiltysub
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Rule#1 never track your daily
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:07 AM   #5
guiltysub
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Re: Rule#1 never track your daily

My thought is 1. flushing brake fluid with motul whatever (can't remember the name)
for track use ( on top of that you could add racing pad and ss brake
line as plus)
2. make sure you buy the base model
equipped with 17'' wheels (couple grand cheaper and 18'' won't help
grip but add extra weight)
3. before any mods, make sure you buy track safety equipment for yoself
first. you know YOLO
4. Jack is right. Make sure what you want and check rule book
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:45 PM   #6
Jack
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So I mentioned that I had a limit on tires and wheels in showroom stock. I was indeed competing, so the rulebook dictated what I could do. Same diameter wheels and width was determined by class. Tires also had requirements of being DOT tires, but at that time, R compound DOT tires were very common from lots of manufacturers.

When you get right down to it, it makes the most sense to choose a car you like for the street that will hold up on the track. The biggest advantage of the STi are the brakes. You won't be constantly battling with boiling fluid with the Brembos. You will be with the stock WRX brakes. If you're going to do coilovers, don't get the garbage far east crap, most of which comes out of one of 2 factories (Taiwan and China) and are private labeled with cool colors. Something like an H&R Club Sport is probably about entry level. I'm partial to Ohlin. Consider instead springs and struts appropriate to the car. Up that rear sway bar. Get lots of seat time....that's going to give you more than anything else.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:30 PM   #7
vlad11591
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stock WRX to stock sti, a WRX can beat an STI depending on the driver.

I thought about tracking on my WRX but realized that I'm too lazy to switch out tires etc every track day, and it can be a very expensive hobby.

I know SCCA has specific classes based on mods. I would first start there. See what class you want to compete in, and then see what modifications are allowed/not allowed. I would first compete stock to get a feel for the limits of the car. With a good alignment, the WRX stock can compete fairly well.

For suspension upgrades-
Strut/shock combo/coils is really personal preference. Do your research. There are a lot of vendors on this site that will be very helpful in answering questions, and suggest good products for your goals. You'll also need lower control arms to adjust rear camber. So add that to the budget.
Brake/tran fluid, brakes/pads- definitely want to do that to

For power-
TGV/EGR deletes and TMIC. Top mount intercooler gets heat soaked pretty quickly, especially after longer track days. Depending on weather conditions, you'll probably need that sooner rather than later. Pro tune. You're good. You should be around 270-280 whp. You can add flex fuel if you wish to get over that 300. You can probably add a downpipe if you wish, but really not a bottleneck for more power as it is in the STI.

You're probably looking at 4-5k in upgrades for everything. Even with all this, you can likely get beat by a more experienced driver in a stock STI. If you go base WRX then yes you'll still be under the STI, but premium/limited you're looking at the gap of a new STI.
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:09 PM   #8
pazzoduc
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OK I'll bite.

EJ25 issues, I'm gonna guess you are talking about rod bearings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonDrums View Post
Precautions:
  1. Ignore the manual and use a non resource-conserving _W-40 oil
    There are 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 oils well documented in this thread that perform very well in turbo Subaru engines. The most commonly found and popular oils are: Shell Rotella T6 5w-40, Mobile 1 Advanced Full Synthetic 0w-40 (DO NOT USE REGULAR OR GREEN CAP MOBILE 1), Pennzoil Ultra 0W-40 just to name a few with good data. The first number matters less than the 2nd number but if in doubt about trying an oil go for a thicker W weight like 10w-40 if you can't find the named oils above.
  2. Taking extra precaution to use fresh high-octane fuel
  3. Increasing oil change intervals in general but especially when driven hard.
  4. Avoiding prolonged runs at or near redline and WOT. If you drive heavy, change your oil more frequently and use better oil!!
  5. Avoiding out of the box staged tunes when you're unable to verify the 'health' of the tune via datalogging & wherewithal to make corrective changes
  6. Not installing aftermarket intake components without a proper tune as the accuracy of the MAF sensor's readings can be affected causing improper fuel ratios
  7. drive it like you bought it. These cars are fun but they are essentially CHEAP fun so don't expect them to pull racetrack duty out of the box like a supercar.
That said get the STI, follow recommendations and spring for a set of suitable tires.

You're welcome... LOL.
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:20 AM   #9
Straight6
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If you are going to be doing tons of track duty, I would hands down get the STi. Heck, if I was going to track my daily (need the 4 doors and space) I would get the STi over the CTR/RS/R all day, never mind a WRX. The VA chassis STi with some tweaks is an absolute track weapon.
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