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Old 08-11-2009, 02:08 PM   #26
G Langa
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Bondo is your friend. It works for the Honda guys.

I like you current wing..ed setup better. Don't change it!
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:38 PM   #27
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Lol juSTin I offered to repair it to be paintable to a guy for cheap and he didn't want it lets see what happens and jus you wait greggo I have a little winged surprise to go on this too...

Time to fill.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:49 PM   #28
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Figured I'd try to get this corner to be a little straighter at least on the edges.


To match the other best I can




And reworked/rehammered the bottom line too to get it closer to the lines of my exist trunk.


And since you can't weld or spot weld the emblem holes I realize because the metal is too thin, 2nd round of materials. ~$20!
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:05 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msesno View Post
Lol juSTin I offered to repair it to be paintable to a guy for cheap and he didn't want it lets see what happens and jus you wait greggo I have a little winged surprise to go on this too...

Time to fill.
I know exactly whats your doing and will keep it on the DL. this is starting to get to be a pretty big thread matt. GL with everything

youve got a pretty nice pad in the city also
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:11 PM   #30
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I just glued little metal patches on the back of my emblem holes and then filled them from the outside. And i would use at least 800 to wet sand it... if you have to use 600 just be careful 600 with water will cut really fast and could come out a bit rough, but i guess if you are using a rattle can thats not your biggest concern
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Old 08-11-2009, 03:19 PM   #31
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Exactly what I did! I hope this bonding agent holds up over time, wondering if I should shave the keyhole too while I'm at it...







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Old 08-11-2009, 04:40 PM   #32
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I know what you're doing already too, I think you told me. I like your car's exterior as is I wouldnt change it a bit! You're pretty tasteful and resourceful so I'm sure you have it all drafted up in your head anyway.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:43 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 06njsti View Post
I know exactly whats your doing and will keep it on the DL. this is starting to get to be a pretty big thread matt. GL with everything

youve got a pretty nice pad in the city also
Thanks dude, sweet city apt = no storage, tools or garage though! Hah we'll see how this all comes out... people think bodywork is rocketscience but it's all in the prep, so thanks again for hooking me up with the bum wingless trunklid!

Now if I get this to come out well and the rattle cans don't do their job and I bork the paint it will be an epic threadfail

G I think it will go well together in the end and I'll just sell it if I don't like the outcome... the hints are there hah now just have to EXECUTE.

Sanding for filler tonight, good thing I'm still unemployed for a little bit here so I can get this done in chunk.
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Old 08-11-2009, 05:25 PM   #34
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Need help, hit me up if you're not reffing. I have a magic leaf that will make you focus intensely on this project.
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Old 08-11-2009, 05:45 PM   #35
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Problem with the clear coat in the paint is you can not wetsand! Wetsanding a pearl base will "smear" the pearl and leave lines in the paint. Its going to be very difficult to get the proper atomization straight out of aerosol can. Most likely resulting in orange peel. Best advice i could give you is.. Spray your first wet coat, let flash, then give it a heavy coat so it has time to atomize. A run is a lot easier to wet sand out and repaint then the entire trunk being orange peeled.
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:01 PM   #36
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Thanks for the info but I don't have a wetsander... I do have 600 and 800 grit 'wetordry' that I may try 'wetsanding' by hand on the primer. I was also thinking that if the single stage isn't good enough I could do a coat of duplicolor aerosol clearcoat too and wetsand that. I'm not looking for perfection, but this stuff was bought from an auto paint supply store and I THINK if I actually do lighter coats it won't orange peel too bad. This is what he told me, and also, the dual stage paint was much more expensive, and that was pure 18L w/o any hardener or clearcoat. I also think the tops he capped the aerosol cans with are special for this type of application, he made the mix and then pumped it into aerosol!
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:11 PM   #37
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You don't need a wetsander to wet sand, all you need is luke warm water with a drop of dish washing soap and most importantly a sanding block. Sand, dump in water, sand repeat.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:53 PM   #38
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Yea I know I'm up against mad orange peel odds but I'll deal with that when I get there. Till now, I'm cool to sand with this high grit between stages until the final coat, correct?
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Old 08-12-2009, 01:12 PM   #39
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Well 1st round of sanding 600 grit went well, it is still pretty abrasive but most everything feels pretty smooth except where I have to fill. Made a pot of coffee, got some lunch, gotta mix up some hardener with the filler and then it's fill time.
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:29 PM   #40
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Man I wish I had a garage... and DAMN you gotta work quick when filling esp if you use hardener! This is obvious but my batches started to harden up on my before I could be all the way around!

Sanded:


Filled:
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:36 PM   #41
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shes coming along good matt, alot of painting is in the prep work.
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:38 PM   #42
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Thanks dude, Greg wants me to shave the keyhole too but I think I will keep it. I'm going to put the S-U-B-A-R-U onto this trunk, and maybe the wrx on the lower side to balance the keylock.
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:16 AM   #43
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You're cool to sand with the 600 grit, i'd try to get it up to 800 before the base coat. I'd reccomend you start wet sanding with a block though. The wetsanding for the mere fact that you will save A LOT of sand paper, and a block to make sure you don't get any high spots or any waves in the final product.
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:40 AM   #44
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Your not going to sand in your room are you?
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:18 PM   #45
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Nope not sanding in the apt... and the filler was off gassing a little I had to open a window I started to get woozy!

Looking back, I think I used too much hardener! The 600 grit isn't cutting enough in the places I had to build up, I'm gonna run to Lowes now to pick up a 400 block or so, I think that'll help. I'm hoping to be ready for priming by tonight!
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:01 PM   #46
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Update, starting sanding now, got sidetracked when I saw some perfect gutterguard for my grille.... more pics later
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:20 PM   #47
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Lol never knew I'd be doin the grille today too. I want to match the lower one too, here's todays progress between sanding. I eventually want to paint the emblem red/black, but no time now...

oem top, 3.50 gutter guard below.


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Old 08-14-2009, 12:37 AM   #48
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How do you intend to attatch the gutter guard?
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:45 AM   #49
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It's attached the same way the oem one was, there are little clips that clip onto tabs that stick out on the back that secure it on, I had to glue the edges down as the clips don't go that far and it was rolled up. I traced the outline of oem and then cut out openings where each tab was and reapplied the clips. Should look pretty decent, hide the supertones a bit, and I want to do the lower one too. More sanding tomm and hopefully primer by lunch.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:02 PM   #50
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Well too much filler + too much hardener + elbow grease + sanding on roof in sun - no power tools = TIRED azz arm/back but decent outcome. Touching up a few minor divots then primer! Pics to follow.
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