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Old 12-09-2005, 01:33 PM   #51
Capt Crunch
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If you can make a white car look like that... there is hope for my silver crap-mobile!!!
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:40 PM   #52
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thanks?
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Old 12-09-2005, 02:53 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eboarder2020
Awesome guide man... Too bad this couldnt come out in the summer time... Oh welps spring will be here soon hehe
It did come out in the summer time--look at the date of the original post. Somebody just bumped it for the good info it provides
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Old 12-09-2005, 03:17 PM   #54
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What do you guys use to clean your tinted windows? Trying to avoid the dreaded purple tint.
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Old 12-09-2005, 04:17 PM   #55
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Stoner's Invisible Glass is safe for tint and does a hell of a good job of cleaning glass.
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Old 12-09-2005, 04:28 PM   #56
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I use 'Invisible Glass'
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Old 12-09-2005, 05:09 PM   #57
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Googling it now, do any auto parts stores carry it?
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Old 12-14-2005, 01:41 PM   #58
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bump, lets winterize the right way guys
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Old 12-14-2005, 06:34 PM   #59
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Wow awesome guide. I was about to make a thread asking how to do many of these things but I managed to see your thread out of the corner of my eye.

I try to wash my car at least once a week. I just use the soap/water thing and once I get it dry its done. It hasn't been waxed since I bought it in May. I really want to do it, but I'm not sure how to as I have never done it before. I'm gonna try this out when I can get my hands on some of these products. Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2005, 08:19 PM   #60
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AWESOME guide man... I just have a question. This is about the actual exterior.... so it generally goes: 1.polish 2. wax?

What about paint cleaner? Or with Klasse AIO is paint cleaner not necessary. I only ask cuz I have a lot of products from my random mothers and meguiars buying days. I have paint cleaner, wax... and polish? Sorry I just wanted an explanation of all the damn differences. If I really only need Klasse AIO and a good wax, then I'd be fine with that. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:01 PM   #61
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Yep polish 1st, then wax. I guess its kind of deceiving, the name....you would think the "polish" would go on last to shine the car and finish it....not so.

polish is actually a paint cleaner. And there are a million different strength polishes. Klasses AIO is pretty mild. If your car's paint has been neglected for a long time you should look into other polishes that clean the paint deeper.

hope that clears things up
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:33 PM   #62
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How come autopia recommends Klasse AIO at the end? After using sfx-1 for swirls and oxidation and then sfx-2 for polish... the the Klasse.. then wax? Just wondering.

Oh and how do you feel abou this new Porter Cable buffer for waxing?
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Old 12-14-2005, 09:46 PM   #63
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autopia recommends weird things sometimes. They are an online store afterall

just use klasse AIO then wax and you will be golden.

Like I said before, I have a crasftmen buffer (very similar to the port cable) and never really use it. Klasse and the 1z glanz wax are really easy to apply/buff off. I find with buffer machines I miss a lot of the small spots and have to go back and touch them up by hand anyway....and our cars have tons of those "little" spots...so for me the machine method never saved time or effort.

The only time I would use a machine buffer is if I was applying or removing very thick wax. Some carnuba waxes like meguirs gold class (i think thats what its called) take FOREVER to buff out by hand...so for those, I definately see why people would use porter cables etc.
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Old 12-14-2005, 10:20 PM   #64
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where can you buy the klasse AIO locally? or can you only buy this stuff online?
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Old 12-14-2005, 10:20 PM   #65
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^^ Thanks... I appreciate the follow up. It helps to have tips from impartial sources like yourself. Time to order up some Klasse!
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Old 12-14-2005, 10:26 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disque71
where can you buy the klasse AIO locally? or can you only buy this stuff online?
i havent seen klasse products in any major auto stores like auto zone or checkers.....but smaller local places might carry it. Like I said before though, I have always found these detailing products MUCH cheaper online and available in larger quantities.

your welcome infamousDX
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:38 AM   #67
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A proper polish (that is, one with abrasives in it) will negate the need to use a paintwork cleanser. HOWEVER, before most polishing I recommend:
1. wash
2. CLAY

THEN...
3. polish (or paint cleanser)
4. seal/wax

However, if your paintjob is (somehow!) free of light swirls and instead just has some buildup that claying hasn't removed or you decide to skip claying and a proper polishing (to remove swirls) a paint cleanser is an acceptable pre-wax step.

That said, Klasse AIO is a VERY LIGHT polish and a good cleanser (and a LIGHT sealant). Best to follow up with a proper sealant (like Klasse Sealant Glaze or any other synthetic sealant) or a wax (or both - sealant first though!).

In other words, you can get away with Klasse + wax. However, if I may pimp my own thread on another forum, see what the "full package" can get you with my thread over on s2ki.com.


edit: I see Phil already worked this one out. Doh. Anyway, I believe what he and I both said jive. Just a matter of how far you want to go with it.

Last edited by animes2k; 12-15-2005 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:51 AM   #68
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Okay Phil and I agree on MOST things except this bit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
The only time I would use a machine buffer is if I was applying or removing very thick wax. Some carnuba waxes like meguirs gold class (i think thats what its called) take FOREVER to buff out by hand...so for those, I definately see why people would use porter cables etc.
A machine such as the PC is often useful in applying and removing sealants or waxes that you want to put on very thin and even (like Klasse SG, Zaino, etc). Some people love it to remove sealants and waxes. I prefer application and removal by hand, myself.

sidenote: You should never apply a wax in a thick layer. Keep it as thin and even as possible - only a very small amount is going to be left behind anyway and the thicker you put it on, the more waste and the harder it will be to remove.

Anyway, a machine like the PC will save you hours and save your muscles if you intend to remove paint defects and marring - swirls, etching, scratches can all be taken out relatively quickly and easily through the use of a PC. The more advanced option is a rotary buffer - faster and more capable than a PC, but with a rotary you run the risk of burning the paint or leaving buffer trails/holograms in the paint if you don't know how to use it properly. It takes time.

A couple of examples (in addition to the above-linked thread) that show what a PC and/or rotary is capable of that you could only WISH to do by hand:







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Old 12-15-2005, 01:00 AM   #69
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And finally, for winter washing IN YOUR GARAGE! you can do it with QEW (Quick & Easy Wash). See this link over on Autopia for a run down of how that works. It's likely going to be my only option if this season turns out to be as cold as it has been.

Yes, I'm a little obsessive. But all my products and tools have paid for themselves and then some. I did about 17 cars this summer (average about $150-200 ea.)... And that was just side work to my regular job
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Old 12-15-2005, 01:12 AM   #70
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well I would hope most people who take the time to read this thread about detailing dont let their vehicle's deteriorate to the state of those above cars...but I guess you never know.
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Old 12-15-2005, 02:35 AM   #71
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even with a very careful wash method (you better believe I'm careful with the subie) marring can and does occur. Getting it out by hand is not fun. Additionally, many people haven't discovered the magic of detailing until it's "too late" (it's seldom ever REALLY too late, but you know what I mean). Or they got their car used. Or something happened (scratches, brushed up against something, oops, dirt in the wash mitt!).

The red mercedes in the photo actually looked good from a distance. The owner thought he was taking care of it. It took a lot of time and effort and the right process to get it right.

BUT, it all depends on what you're starting with and where you want to end up. Some of the examples above were extreme and required the big guns, but less extreme situations can also benefit:



even light swirls can decrease the shine and brilliance of color. That car was polished out with the PC, a polishing (light) pad and Klasse AIO.
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:05 AM   #72
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Alright, here's a challenge for you car care buffs. Before winter hit, I prepped my car with a decent coat of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. Now my car is covered in salt from the roads around here, and the daytime highs stay below freezing for weeks at a time. Adding to the challenge is the fact that I live in an apartment complex without access to hoses or garages. What's the best way to wash my car without rubbing the salt into the paint or giving myself hypothermia?
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Old 12-15-2005, 10:31 AM   #73
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There is nothing like a machine produced buff.....
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Old 12-15-2005, 11:24 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kilonad
Alright, here's a challenge for you car care buffs. Before winter hit, I prepped my car with a decent coat of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. Now my car is covered in salt from the roads around here, and the daytime highs stay below freezing for weeks at a time. Adding to the challenge is the fact that I live in an apartment complex without access to hoses or garages. What's the best way to wash my car without rubbing the salt into the paint or giving myself hypothermia?
do you have one of those DIY car wash places nearby? Thats where I wash my car when im in college. Its not ideal, but you just have to bring your own bucket to mix a shampoo of choice in and dont forget your microfiber towels

if not then, im not sure what to tell ya. At the very least there must be some sort of automated drive-thru car wash around. They are horrible on paint jobs, but not any worse than dried, caked road salt.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:53 PM   #75
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Bumping an old thread.

what about a brand new paintjob? should I still clay and polish it? or should I skip directly to the wax step for now? I do see a few buffer trails/holograms tho, I think from the bodyshop's so-so wetsand/polish job. whats the best way to start it's life? so far I've only washed it with NXT wash and dryed using my "Absorber" (which I'm wondering caused the holograms.)
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