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Old 10-06-2016, 06:08 PM   #101
1 Lucky Texan
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one owner 2006 WRX, no power mods, only 70K miles.

obliterated 2nd gear.

*sigh*
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:09 PM   #102
bdubblu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post
one owner 2006 WRX, no power mods, only 70K miles.

obliterated 2nd gear.

*sigh*

Time to get a JDM transmission and slap in in... You can get one for a grand with matching rear diff. If you want slightly shorter gears you can go 4.11, or for the shortest produced the 4.44. Bolts right up!
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:22 PM   #103
Dave D.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubblu View Post
Time to get a JDM transmission and slap in in... You can get one for a grand with matching rear diff. If you want slightly shorter gears you can go 4.11, or for the shortest produced the 4.44. Bolts right up!
Did this in my modded '06. Love it. Probably the most bulletproof investment in the car overall.
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Old 10-07-2016, 05:10 PM   #104
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Check front lower control arms especially if you are in a region that uses salt/deicer on the roads. If they are getting bad, consider replacing them with a new pair from Subaru that are aluminum: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/p...07d020f3795b2b

If you have started to or are experiencing a "flat spot" in the throttle response when the car is cold and warming up and/or is almost continuous when you begin to drive from a stop, you may want to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

An OEM item from a dealer or a Denso unit from an aftermarket parts store will be fine.

To keep rust(ing) down a bit, you can try using these products, which have a wax in them:
Boeshield T-9: http://boeshield.com/
Fluid Film: http://www.fluid-film.com/

To rinse salt off, use Salt Away: http://www.saltawayproducts.com/

Rustproofing that never hardens from Transtar called Amber Rustproofing: https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repa...r-Rustproofing

Noxudol undercoatings and cavity waxes: http://www.noxudolusa.com/products/r...tion-products/
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Old 10-10-2016, 09:26 PM   #105
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I stress to have every Subaru that has the 2.0 or 2.5 Turbo to remove the filters in the banjo screens. Our shop overhauled 14 Subaru engines and Turbos this year just alone from these screens getting plugged up.

As far as Mid Life Replacement stuff what we do alot of around the 90,000 - 150,000+ Mile mark generally consists of lots of Head Gasket replacements on 2.5 SOHC engines, Lots of Engine rebuilds from people who do not change the oil early. We see lots of Turbo leaking oil out of the exhaust. We see lots of oil burning issues around 120k. Lot's of Ball Joint, Wheel Bearings and Front Axles. There are a few other things but I think this is what our shop sees the most of.

Last edited by Mulder; 10-12-2016 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 10-12-2016, 03:11 PM   #106
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[quote=Sorensonauto;44723003]I stress to have every Subaru that has the 2.0 or 2.5 Turbo to remove the filters in the banjo screens. Our shop overhauled 14 Subaru engines and Turbos this year just alone from these screens getting plugged up.

As far as Mid Life Replacement stuff what we do alot of around the 90,000 - 150,000+ Mile mark generally consists of lots of Head Gasket replacements on 2.5 SOHC engines, Lots of Engine rebuilds from people who do not change the oil early. We see lots of Turbo leaking oil out of the exhaust. We see lots of oil burning issues around 120k. Lot's of Ball Joint, Wheel Bearings and Front Axles. There are a few other things but I think this is what our shop sees the most of.




where do you guys get axles?

Last edited by Mulder; 10-12-2016 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:36 PM   #107
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What's up mid life forum!
I'm just about to hit 101k on my 2.5 impreza mt. I just bought this 2 months ago and already have put on almost 4k miles. My goal is to make this car last for at least 5 more years. I'm starting on my midlife repairs and would appreciate some input. I only have about $1k right now and am trying to prioritize repairs. Thanks in advance for your input.

FYI- The clutch is brand new. Brakes are above 50%. Coolant has been flushed at 90k and the hoses were replaced at that time as well. Tires will be done next year along with the timing belt and it's components.

Here are my concerns that I want to address:

1. There's no skid plate. I'm terrified of something popping up and destroying my ***** this winter.
2. Radiator and accessories . I believe it's still OEM. So I need to do this.
3. Ball joints, bushings, other suspension items? My front right area squeaks and creaks while I'm stopping. Mechanic says it's probably a bushing going bad. Might be something lose as well.
4. Transmission fluid, differential fluids, brake fluid, etc. I'm not too sure about these. All of the levels look good when I inspect under the hood but not sure when they were flushed last.
5. Spark plugs and other engine work?
6. Rust. My mechanic pointed out a decent amount of rust under the car.

If there's anything else you guys think of let me know. All input is greatly appreciated!! I love my 2.5 and want to invest in the right repairs so I can drive it another 100k+.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:31 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Check front lower control arms especially if you are in a region that uses salt/deicer on the roads. If they are getting bad, consider replacing them with a new pair from Subaru that are aluminum: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/p...07d020f3795b2b
For what it's worth, I took mine in for inspection to a Subaru dealer around August 2016. They replaced both front control arms on my 2004 nearly 12-3 years later! Free of charge!

At least ask. The regional manager was in and knew I was a long time customer.
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Old 11-30-2016, 08:38 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJimbo View Post
1. There's no skid plate. I'm terrified of something popping up and destroying my ***** this winter.
2. Radiator and accessories . I believe it's still OEM. So I need to do this.
3. Ball joints, bushings, other suspension items? My front right area squeaks and creaks while I'm stopping. Mechanic says it's probably a bushing going bad. Might be something lose as well.
4. Transmission fluid, differential fluids, brake fluid, etc. I'm not too sure about these. All of the levels look good when I inspect under the hood but not sure when they were flushed last.
5. Spark plugs and other engine work?
6. Rust. My mechanic pointed out a decent amount of rust under the car.
1. Mine fell off on my 2004 WRX. Haven't had it on in years, winters and all. Never stayed on.

2. Changed my radiator at 125k. Should have sooner. It was easy and only cost about $120 for a Koyo replacement + $50 for used Samco hoses. Peace of mind.

3. Bushings. Meh, I'd check them. They wear out, but you'll go nuts changing or checking all of them. If you were racing, I'd say go upgrade most of them.

4. Flush them all. Gear oil should be changed every 30k, brake fluid every year almost. (Then again, mine went 10+ years on the same brake fluid from the factory - yikes!)

5. Spark plugs are cheap and easy on the 2.5 NA. Do them.

6. RUST. Yikes. Really depends how much. It won't last 5+ years, I can tell you that. Mine looked great and 4 years later I was replacing both front control arms, the subframe, everything under there. Even garage kept.
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:35 PM   #110
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1) Power steering pump leak

2) A/C high pressure hose leak

3) Subaru has official re-manufactured front axles - another option if yours are leaking grease
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:20 PM   #111
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Default Bushings

Great post by TiC about bushings refresh:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...eering+refresh
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Old 09-03-2017, 05:52 PM   #112
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Default New wonder of 03 WRX

Very informative, as I am the proud new owner of 03 WRX that just hit 120k
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Old 01-25-2018, 10:24 AM   #113
rlamb450
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Replace, clean out or remove the filters in your banjo bolts.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2689443
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:18 AM   #114
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the upper engine intake filter box has tabs that fit into slots at the lower end of the bottom part in the engine bay.

Check that your slots aren't broken - mine are on both my soobs - presently using zipties to help seal the box halves together as replacement part is a little spendy it seems.
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:21 AM   #115
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A small molded rubber elbow in the front windshield washer hose system began leaking on our 03 Outback, bought a variety pack of vacuum fittings and built a functional replacement.

original was gummy and very deteriorated.
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Old 01-25-2018, 11:23 AM   #116
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on the nipple at the radiator neck where the overflow hose connects, I put 2 small zipties to act as clamps. The hose loses pliability over time and I fear air might be pulled in ,instead of coolant from o'flow bottle.


Texas heat is rough on grease, oil, rubber, etc.
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Old 03-09-2018, 03:24 PM   #117
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'08 just hit 90k. Figure I have another 12-18 months before I consider doing this work and planned on aggregating parts over time. I was only initially targeting the water pump/belts/front engine assembly pieces.. looks like I'll be adding in quite a few things 0.0
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:42 PM   #118
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Oil cooler gasket/ o-ring should go on the list of wear/replacement items. Mine started leaking around 120k miles. Seems to be a common item from just a little reading around.
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Old 12-18-2018, 11:59 AM   #119
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Great thread!
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:23 PM   #120
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2004 wrx, 260K km. lots of salt exposure. rusted holes or completely rusted front bumper bar, rad support, engine cradle, U- subframe. Trailing arms. Everything replaced. holes in wheel wells, rockers, drivers floor. All replaced with new metal. All rubber bushings being replaced next.

Recently replaced top hats, engine mounts, with Group N. Replaced stock struts with Tokico Dspecs.
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Old 12-19-2018, 04:15 PM   #121
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So this thread discusses replacing the OEM MAF and o2 sensors as preventative maintenance. What about the MAP sensor? Do these sensors start to drift like the MAFs?

Wondering for my 1993 EJ20G swapped RX coupe as well as the EJ205 in my 2002 WRX.
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Old 03-01-2019, 12:05 PM   #122
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Default Mid life refresh for 2003 Bugeye Wagon

I just wanted to post a quick re-cap of the work I recently had done at Mach V. This amounted to a major mid-life refresh for my bugeye, so I thought I would share it here.

I have owned my í03 bugeye wagon since new and because I have generally worked from or near home (plus a few years of grad school) I generally drive about 3-4000 miles/year. About 8 years ago I went stage 2 with an e-tune and it has been a fast, fun, and reliable car around town and for the occasional ski trip.

The last 5 years or so the car had been steadily accumulating leaks (oil, coolant, boost, exhaust). and at 16 + years old and 85,000 miles I figured I was due for a major refresh. After a brief discussion with Dan at Mach V I decided to pull the trigger.

I drove the 2 hours up to Sterling, dropped off the car on a Saturday and picked up a rental. Mach V did a thorough diagnostic and then performed the following work:

New Springs/Struts/Tophats (Prodrive, KYB GR2)
New Clutch/Flywheel/shift linkage (Exedy stage 1, OEM, TIC)
New Rotors, Pads, and ss lines
New Radiator Hoses, Acc. Belts, valve cover gasket, exhaust gaskets, misc. other gaskets
Fuel line updates, Coolant line updates, Power steering lines
New Transmission and Engine mounts
New Front sway bar/end links, repaired rear end links (Perrin, Kartboy)
Oil change, differential flush
Repaired evaporator line and performed resistor mod (taking care of 2 recurrent codes)

I also replaced the MAF. They got the work done In a week. Total bill was something close to the value of the car, but it it has been truly transformed - corners flat, pulls hard, shifts smooth, stops short. And no more smoke from the hood scoop at stoplights. Ride is clearly a lot firmer, and over rough roads a little jarring, but very worthwhile for the handling improvements. With the exception of steering, which is still a little numb, every touch-point feels new - the shift linkage update was an especially welcome change - it got rid of the slop and annoying buzz I got from the shifter while cruising, and it feels really great - precise and just a bit notchy/mechanical - I love it. Upgraded clutch is also a big improvement, although it is still breaking in.

Next item on the agenda is tackling the rust (I have the usual paint bubbling @ the quarter-panels). Once I get that under control I will be saving up to head back to Mach V for any last mods and a pro-tune. I am really appreciative of Mach V - without such a knowledgable shop I probably would have let the car continue to deteriorate and been forced to move on sooner rather than later, but I now feel like Iím ready for the next 10 years. Iím a happy camper. Big thanks to Dan, Nick, and the guys at Mach V.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:28 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_dog_barney View Post
Fuel line updates, Coolant line updates.
I'm guessing the fuel line updates are the "cold weather fuel smell" TIB, but what is the coolant line update?
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:32 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car_freak85 View Post
I'm guessing the fuel line updates are the "cold weather fuel smell" TIB, but what is the coolant line update?
What's a TIB?
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Old 03-06-2019, 02:52 PM   #125
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Technical Information Bulletin, a.k.a. Technical Service Bulletin, a.k.a. any field service documentation the manufacturer releases that is not a Federal recall.
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