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09-15-2002, 05:46 AM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 17120
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Chicago/Manhattan/Queens NYC
Vehicle:2004 04WRX STi 99 RS sold and MBP, SQC# 33 |
electrical issue?
I'm thinking I may have an alternator thats on the way out and here is why. I've noticed that gradually my windows/sunroof have been moving more slowly, and its taking slighty more time for my engine to start. Last week I left my lights on without the engine running for 15-20 minutes and afterwards I needed a jump. Today I left my hazards on for 45 mins and again I needed a jump. Do we have a history of weak alternators? would mine be the culprit? I got a new battery from SOA in late march when I bought the car.
-Patrick
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09-15-2002, 07:41 AM | #2 |
Trust no one
Moderator Member#: 11170
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NYC
Vehicle:02 RAV4 MT 15 WRX/11 CRZ |
Could be, could also be the battery even though it isn't that old. Do you have a voltmeter? If so check the battery voltage with the car off, it should be about 12.5. With the engine running at idle it should be somewhere between 13.5-14.5 or so, and as you turn stuff on (lights etc.) it should momentarily dip and then come back up, if the alternator is working properly.
Also check the terminals at the battery to make sure they are tight, clean and in good condition. If you would like I can meet you and check it for you, it only takes a few minutes. So far I've seen one other local member with a bad alternator on a GC8 RS, but I don't know if it's a common problem. |
09-15-2002, 03:23 PM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 24524
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: No. Babylon, NY
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like it was said above do that, Also a good charge is exceped above 12.3V and no higher then 14.4V The ault. should be putting out about 17-18 V and then the internal regulator will knock that down to 13.5-14V ( you can only see post regulator as it is done inside the case ) when EVERYTHING that you can turn on is on check the voltage. if it is low or very close to 12.3 then it is ont he way but not bad yet. One thing that happens a lot is that when the batt goes the time it was running but weak it was working hard ont he ault to keep it running, this extra load will shorted the life of the unit. WE always say do the batt and alt at the same time.
Things like alarms will put a drain on the batt that some can not take. The turbo car has a problem with uner hood heat doing damage to electrical parts. Makes the parts shorter life then the normial NA car. Out in the south west they sell batt's that are made for heat as it's hot most of the year where we are in the colder area so hence the cold weather batt's Using a hot weather interstate is the norm for the DSMers Inspect the manifold that the heat sheld is still on and deflecting the heat from below. Best of luck BM- |
09-15-2002, 04:02 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 18946
Join Date: May 2002
Location: New York
Vehicle:2002 Impreza WRX Blue |
I've also notice that its taking long 4 me to start the engine the last few weeks
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09-15-2002, 04:42 PM | #5 |
Trust no one
Moderator Member#: 11170
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NYC
Vehicle:02 RAV4 MT 15 WRX/11 CRZ |
The WRX electrical system isn't the greatest, the alternator can't keep up at idle with lots of stuff running (AC, lights, etc.) and with enough of a load the battery will actually begin to discharge a little. Once the engine is above idle it's fine. This is due to the alternator capacity being somewhat less than in the RS, 75A vs. 90.
As for the battery I think they all have the same crappy OEM one, a Matsu****a or whatever it is. CCA is only rated 325A and after a few extreme seasons of use (hot summer/cold winter) it's probably less. I threw mine away and installed an Optima battery and I suggest everyone do the same, at least replace it with something that has a decent CCA rating for the winter. edit- Ha, the filter took that out |
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