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Old 11-23-2016, 03:30 PM   #1
J2Rad
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Default Car Clubs and Track Days in Portland Oregon

Hello all,

I'm hoping to find advice, information, and perhaps some kindred spirits in the northwest who want to take their WRXs on the track. Portland International Raceway is literally down the road from my house, yet i've never been inside the fence, just always craning my neck to see it from afar while getting on the I-5 on ramp.

I recently upgraded from a 2000 toyota corolla (a real work horse, that one) to a 2017 WRX 6MT, and i've had the itch to take it on a track ever since. I've looked into potentially joining some car clubs, so far i've researched the Oregon chapter of SCCA, and there is also the Cascade Sports Car Club that looks promising.

So, my question is; who would i register with to take my car on the track? the local club only? or would i have to join a local club as well as joining SCCA? the rules are a bit foreign to me.

I'm also unsure as to what equipment i would need. It seems like i do need to purchase an up-to-date racing helmet, but after that I'm not sure.

Are there any other WRX owners in the Portland metro area (I live in St Johns neighborhood) who want to band together and make something happen? Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-24-2016, 11:51 PM   #2
Patrick Olsen
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While I understand you're asking a motorsport related question, I think you'll probably have more luck posting in your regional forum.
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Old 11-25-2016, 04:55 PM   #3
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I agree with Patrick,

PIR seems to have a pretty busy calender already quite full for next year

http://portlandraceway.com/?/events/calendar

Id also recommend checking your local scca and nasa chapters as I imagine one if not both use the venue

Good luck getting on track!
-Jacob
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:02 AM   #4
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Ok, I appreciate the advice. Perhaps I'll repost in the Nw forum. I'll be getting in contact with a couple different car clubs around town so hopefully one of them can provide further detail. Honestly I would be perfectly happy to get like one or two track days this year. My WRX is my daily driver after all and I would still be cautious so I didn't break anything.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:54 AM   #5
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J2Rad I'll be happy to help you get on track. I'm an instructor at Oregon Raceway Park (ORP) and race in the ICSCC across OR/WA/BC.

The short answer is you don't need to join the SCCA or any clubs to do track days at PIR and ORP.

There are no track days in the NW until Spring so you have plenty of time to figure it out. PM me with your phone if you want to talk about it.
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Old 01-05-2017, 04:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
J2Rad I'll be happy to help you get on track. I'm an instructor at Oregon Raceway Park (ORP) and race in the ICSCC across OR/WA/BC.

The short answer is you don't need to join the SCCA or any clubs to do track days at PIR and ORP.

There are no track days in the NW until Spring so you have plenty of time to figure it out. PM me with your phone if you want to talk about it.
Hey, that sounds great! I'll pm ya later, I would definitely like to pick your brain regarding preparation and what I should expect. Thanks for reaching out, are you in the Portland metro area?
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:17 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
Hey, that sounds great! I'll pm ya later, I would definitely like to pick your brain regarding preparation and what I should expect. Thanks for reaching out, are you in the Portland metro area?
No, I'm in Bend.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:08 PM   #8
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[quote=Sgt.Gator;44893602]J2Rad I'll be happy to help you get on track. I'm an instructor at Oregon Raceway Park (ORP) and race in the ICSCC across OR/WA/BC.

The short answer is you don't need to join the SCCA or any clubs to do track days at PIR and ORP.

Hey man, apologies for not getting back to you sooner. I've been away from the forums for a bit. But since spring is just around the corner, i thought i would pose a few questions (I'm hoping to gather some good info to post in our local NW forum if folks in our area have similar intrests).

1) Ok, per your quote above, one does not need to be a member of SCCA or any other car club to participate at PIR or ORP. So, would you simply arrive at the scheduled event and pay a fee? I'm sure you're more familiar with ORP, so using that as an example, what would be the process from arriving at the track to actually getting on the track.

I think this is my greatest source of anxiety, just not knowing what the process looks like.

2) Do i need a helmet? Does the track have helmets to loan/rent?

3) I am aware that your car does need to be inspected with two weeks prior to an event to ensure your vehicle is track worthy. Are there any shops in Portland (or within the metro area) that can provide that service? How much does it typically cost. a referral would be awesome.

4) I know that one should bring any tools they think they would possibly need, but for folks who want to take their daily driver around the track, is there anything specific that you recommend? I personally do not have many tools. Mainly, i have a ratchet set, some wrenches, spanners, pliers and the like. But a good solid must-have list would be good to compile (I do some additional research online as well)

5) Is there any specific prep work one should do to their car prior to arriving at the track? Oil change, etc?

I know this is a lot, so I appreciate your feedback. Even if it's a bit far to get there, I am down to drive to grass valley if it means having a helping hand throughout the whole process . On that note, what are some upcoming events?
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Old 02-25-2017, 03:02 AM   #9
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Here you go:
1) You register in advance. Since you are a rookie almost every organization will require you to ride with an instructor. Since there is a limited number of instructors you have to register in advance. Many organizations use motorsportsreg.com. http://www.motorsportreg.com/ Go there, sign up for an account, and do a search for track day HPDE within 300 miles of Portland. When you arrive at the track you check in and they will tell the rookies where to go, usualy a classroom, to meet with instructors and get the basics.

2) If you have your own helmet that's best. But usually not required, almost every track and organization has loaners.

3) Only NASA does the 2 week prior tech inspection at a shop. Virtually all other organizations do it at the track in the AM before or right after he driver meeting.

4) You don't need any tools for a track day. At least not if your car is running good enough to drive to the track.

5) The single most imprtant thing to do is to flush the brake fluid with new higher temp fluid. If you car is only 1 year old you can get by without doing this, but otherwise have your brake fluid flushed. If you don't know how or don't have the tools find a friend that does or pay a shop to do it. Second would be track day brake pads, but your first day on the track you'll be ok with street/oem pads. Very soon you will need better pads.
Start here and read every page. As an instructor I could care less how fast you go, but I care a great deal about how well you STOP. https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq

The ACCO of Central Oregon has an upcoming track day April 1 at ORP for $140. You won't find a cheaper track day anywhere!

Details:
April 1, 2017.
"NO FOOLS DAY"
This will be an "Lapping Day"

TRACK IS HOT, Time to sign up for ACCO Track Day!
START YOUR ENGINES - OREGON RACEWAY PARK IS WAITING FOR YOU.

45 drivers min.
The Autocross Club of Central Oregon is hosting a "Open Track Day" at Oregon Raceway Park on April 1.
Participants can expect "Four" sessions. This schedule may vary based on number of entries.
Entry fee is $140- Pre Registration is required.

Sign up at MotorsportReg.com
http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/...central-000127

If minimum of 45 is not reached by 3/25/2017, event will be canceled and refunds issued.
This is not a race, this event is a driver instruction day for drivers to stretch their legs on a race track.

Contacts
Jack Gassaway

[email protected]

541-350-5458

Tech Rules: http://autoxclub.org/Web_1/2013_Raci...y_Tech_orp.pdf

ACCO Rules: http://autoxclub.org/Web_1/2013_Raci...ay_Inspect.pdf

ORP Track Rules:http://autoxclub.org/Web_1/2013_Raci...rk%20Rules.pdf

Also Hooked on Driving has events across OR/WA. https://www.hookedondriving.com/hook...rthwest-Region

Gator
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Old 02-25-2017, 09:36 PM   #10
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All right! I have a game plan.

1) I'm signing up for motorsports reg.
2) I'm going sign up for the April 1 event at ORP
3)I have my 12,000 mile service coming up by end of march. I'll have the car inspected and ask them to replace brake fluid with high temp variant (any recommendations?)
4) the brake pads should have quite a bit of material left considering the car was purchased in June of last year so I think I'm good there. The stock Dunlop sportmax tires also still have plenty of tread. I'll be due for an oil change so I'll get that done beforehand as well.
5) I'll double check with the track office, but I'm assuming ORP either does not require helmets for this upcoming event, or if they do, I can rent one.

Gator, thanks again for your help. If you think you will be going to this event too, pm me and we can try to coordinate if you want.

Last edited by J2Rad; 02-26-2017 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:01 AM   #11
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I'll be instructing there.

Any of the $15 to $21 per liter racing brake fluids will be more than fine for you.
Motul 600, Red Line 600, ATE 200, Wilwood 600. Be aware these fluids are NOT readily available at local auto parts stores, and certainly not at most Subaru dealerships. You'll want to order at least one bottle right away to give to the shop. Probably best to get 2 bottles. If you order online be sure of the size of the bottle you order.
See you soon!
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
1) Ok, per your quote above, one does not need to be a member of SCCA or any other car club to participate at PIR or ORP. So, would you simply arrive at the scheduled event and pay a fee? I'm sure you're more familiar with ORP, so using that as an example, what would be the process from arriving at the track to actually getting on the track.
Most clubs that run events have a website that will spell out the details of their events, and/or have a "novice introduction" page or FAQ or something along those lines.

So, you can go to the track's website and find their event calendar (here's ORP's, for example). See what events you might be able to attend, then go to the respective club/organization website for details. Their website may take you to motorsportreg.com or dlbracing.com (another calendar/registration site like motorsportreg), or they may have all the details and registration through their own site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
2) Do i need a helmet? Does the track have helmets to loan/rent?
Yes, and typically yes. Check with the club you'll be running with to ask whether or not they have loaners.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
4) I know that one should bring any tools they think they would possibly need, but for folks who want to take their daily driver around the track, is there anything specific that you recommend? I personally do not have many tools. Mainly, i have a ratchet set, some wrenches, spanners, pliers and the like. But a good solid must-have list would be good to compile (I do some additional research online as well)

5) Is there any specific prep work one should do to their car prior to arriving at the track? Oil change, etc?
There are a number of "first time at the track" threads, like so and like so. Those are a few years old, but still valid information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
5) I'll double check with the track office, but I'm assuming ORP either does not require helmets for this upcoming event, or if they do, I can rent one.
There's no "if they do" about it - if you're going on track at speed, you will need a helmet.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:09 PM   #13
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Patrick,

Thanks for the reply, those threads you linked to were very helpful.

After additional reading, i'm convinced that I will need to purchase dedicated brake pads to put on the car for track day. I had thought that, since it was only one day, i should be fine with stock pads, but as I continue to read, I think I will want to play it safe. So, looking at my options, these look promising:
EBC Yellowstuff pads for the front. The reviews are positive, and the price looks very good. I don't think I need to worry about the rear pads just yet.

I'm 98% certain this is a simple "take out oem pads from stock caliper bracket, install race pads in stock caliper bracket". This is something i've never done before, but i need to learn sometime soon. This will be in addition to flushing my brake fluid and replacing with MOTUL RBF 600. Doing these two things, plus some general maintenance (ie oil change, oil filter, new air filter) and I believe I will be ready for a full track day!

My boss happens to be a gearhead and is part of a local BMW club, so he has a helmet that he is willing to lend as well!

Also I learned a fun fact. One of my co-workers's second cousin is Trey Cobb (ya, THAT Cobb). I was like "you has the hook up yes?" "No, trey sold his business a while back"
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:28 AM   #14
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^My opinion:
If you're looking to change to a different brake that's more track-capable but still used on the street for daily driving, EBC YellowStuff or Stoptech Street Performance would be "OK". There are probably others but that's what I'm familiar with. I was not too impressed with the EBC YellowStuff pads, but that was 12 years ago on an Integra, so maybe they're different now. Stoptech Street Performance couldn't really last a full 20 minute session of hard driving at Road America on my 2008(stage2) WRX with Dunlop Z2's, but for a compromise pad they were adequate, especially for the low price.

If you are truly looking for a *dedicated* track pad, to put on before or at the event and take off after, I'd go with something more track-worthy and less streetable.

Brake pads are pretty easy to change out, especially if the thicknesses of the 2 sets of pads are the same. If you have to create more space for thicker/newer pads,. you'll have to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and use a C clamp or purpose-built tool to compress the pistons, that's about the only trick. Check the torque specs and dont' overtighten and strip the slide pins on the caliper holders. For new pads, make sure to break/bed them in properly according to manufacturer specs.
If your rotors are warped and vibrate a lot, you'll definitely want to replace them before a track day. Some rotors are prone to that it seems.


I'll be moving to Seattle later this year, myself, and am looking forward to hitting the tracks in the PNW. (Though I drive a 2017 GTI now.)
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:18 PM   #15
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It's true that the EBC yellow stuff pads are considered more of a hybrid, something that can be used on and off the track. I will likely only get one or two additional track days after this first one. From the reviews I've read, these pads still provide a much higher threshold for heat and thus resist brake fade, while also being a bit easier on the rotors as opposed to a fully dedicated track pad. The fact that you can drive home on the road with these pads was also a plus. I was also checking out Carbotech XP8's, but those were ~170-180 dollars, whereas these pads i bought for 112 (for reference, SubieSpeed has the same yellow stuff pads for like 135-145, and they charge a sales tax in addition to shipping cost), so the price point was definitely the tipping point for pulling the trigger.
I may be getting ahead of myself, but if i do decide to do another track day, i'll definitely be checking out The Ridge, that track looks awesome!


The yellow stuff pads should be here in a week, so once i have those installed I will do a short write-up on how they feel and perform.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:00 PM   #16
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I've had ebc yellows and blues. Both have more than enough bite for the street.

If you can afford it, get the blues. They have better cold bite and better fade resistance, but are QUITE expensive.
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
are QUITE expensive.
Yep, that's why the yellows. Hey as long as they can take the heat as their spec sheet says, I'll be a hell of a lot safer on the track than if I decided to be stubborn and keep the stock pads on.
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Old 03-01-2017, 10:21 PM   #18
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Stock pads on track... lol.

Run the yellows.
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Old 03-02-2017, 12:30 AM   #19
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The yellows will work well.

If you don't know how to heel and toe now's the time to start practicing. We can spend a lot of time working on heel and toe when we should be working on other things.

However if you aren't smooth with your heel & toe shifting that's ok, I often times have students drive ORP in just 3rd or 4th gear, no shifting at all. It reduces the stress and the learning curve of one of the most demanding tracks in North America if all you have to think about is braking, accelerating, and following the racing line. Shift points can come the next time.
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Old 03-02-2017, 10:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
Stock pads on track... lol.

Run the yellows.



That's true, I know it, but you would be surprised how many 'first track day' YouTube video there are where they are still on stock pads.

Gator, I have tried to heel toe, and it's tough. I have big ass sasquatch feet so it's just difficult to physically get my foot over to the throttle while braking. I can quickly rev match with two feet pretty well, but I agree I would need practice if I tried a new technique. There is a pretty good YouTube video with a brz running the track with full telemetry (speed, track position etc), so I've got a pretty good frame of reference for which gear I'll be in at certain points in the track. Honesty I'll be running in mostly 3rd and 4th gear regardless. There might one spot where I would shift to 5th on the main straight. In any case, I'm old enough to know my own limits and I know I have a lot to learn. I'm really excited to see what my car can do in a safe environment, damn I can't wait!

edit to add link to vid:

Last edited by J2Rad; 03-02-2017 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 03-10-2017, 03:14 PM   #21
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So, i was chatting with a friend who also has some experience with building cars, and he was telling me that there is a good chance i'll eff up my calipers, or more specifically my caliper piston seals, by using the better pads with stock calipers. I'm not sure how worried i should be. the guy is a good mechanic, and helped me multiple times when i was fixing up my last car (2000 corolla), but he was also saying some contradictory stuff that i'm hoping to clear up. below is a snippet of our conversation after asking if he might be available to help me do the swap:


----- HUD from Friday, March 10, 2017 -----

>> Bryan wrote <<
[10:55 am] why are you switiching those out they should practically be brand new

>> Jrad wrote <<
[10:56 am] going to an HPDE day on april 1st, at oregon raceway park, so i'm upgrading the brake pads and fluid so i don't destroy my oem pads or **** up my rotors

>> Bryan wrote <<
[10:59 am] lmao. Dont do it bro. You will regret that one. Fluid shouldnt matter one bit in all reality and rotors and pads will but without an upgrade to your calipers you really are making no difference. You want to actually make a difference you would need new calipers. A good brembo kit would deffinatly make a difference in all that but just chainging pads and rotors wont. You actually may damage your calipers because they are not built for that.
[10:59 am] http://www.brembo.com/en/car/sportin...raking-systems

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:04 am] well, judging from most other forums, swapping pads and fluid are actually just the basics. my stock calipers are fine, i'm not sure how using a higher temp compound in the pads would affect the calipers? heat is the enemy here, and i've been told my many folks who have tracked their newer rex's that replacing the fluid and pads is an absoulute must. oem fluid will start to boil after a single lap. oem pads will get so hot that they actually start to smear. believe me, if i had the money for brembos, or another big brake kit, i would do it. for now, swapping in a hybrid pad that's good for street use and track use was the best option

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:07 am] TEMP is an issue but what they dont take in to consideration is the temp on your caliper seals and the amount of stess that will get put on the calipers pistons trying to brake you. I agree with what they say however to do it correctly and actually make a difference that wont cause any kind of overall damage to your car you need to do the calipers. I would care less about my stock pads and rotors as those are cheap. If i were you and you want to start racing that thing you should upgrade to a full Bembo kit. Itll cost you but then you good for street driving and track driving and those dont have temp issues at all. Unless you strap them to a rocket.

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:08 am] but wouldn't that stress be the same with the oem pads anyway?

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:08 am] then you dont ever have to deal with swapping out pads and rotors between street and race

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:09 am] on the calipers i mean

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:09 am] yes and no
[11:09 am] the problem exsist that beacuse your stock calipers are trying so hard to brake you and not doing it efficiently is what is causing heat issues. Change that and temp no longer an issue

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:10 am] i'm really only going to be doing like one or two track days a year anyway. it is my DD after all

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:10 am] Well thats cool bro im just saying. You would go from a dual piston caliper to a six piston caliper.3
[11:11 am] You could stop in under three seconds from sixty to 0
[11:11 am] Plus if you install a brembo set on your car they do add a nice sexy factor to the wheels
[11:11 am] .5

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:13 am] true. believe me, i've been doing a ton of research on this, and talking to guys who have been tracking their subies for many moons, and the general consensus is that:
1) If you can afford it, buy a big brake kit
2) if you can't do that, pads and fluid will keep your car on the track without the brake fade from oem pads

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:13 am] Well that i agree with however your gonna kill your calipers fast if your not careful

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:13 am] i'll be careful
[11:14 am] i'll be doing like, 20 min sessions
[11:14 am] so the car and brake systems wiill have plenty of opportunity to cool downs
[11:14 am] in between sessions

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:15 am] true. Just watch for the glow of the rotor. If that thing is glowing then back off or youll burn up piston seals on the calipers and then your in a **** pile with no shovel

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:16 am] i'll try to get more info on that


so what does the forum think? methinks i should take his words with a grain of salt. Thoughts?
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:03 PM   #22
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I think you should take that with a spoonful of salt. Many many many many many people run more aggressive pads with stock calipers. i have been doing it for years on my bugeye and have never had any issues
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post
So, i was chatting with a friend who also has some experience with building cars, and he was telling me that there is a good chance i'll eff up my calipers, or more specifically my caliper piston seals, by using the better pads with stock calipers. I'm not sure how worried i should be. the guy is a good mechanic, and helped me multiple times when i was fixing up my last car (2000 corolla), but he was also saying some contradictory stuff that i'm hoping to clear up. below is a snippet of our conversation after asking if he might be available to help me do the swap:


----- HUD from Friday, March 10, 2017 -----

>> Bryan wrote <<
[10:55 am] why are you switiching those out they should practically be brand new

>> Jrad wrote <<
[10:56 am] going to an HPDE day on april 1st, at oregon raceway park, so i'm upgrading the brake pads and fluid so i don't destroy my oem pads or **** up my rotors

>> Bryan wrote <<
[10:59 am] lmao. Dont do it bro. You will regret that one. Fluid shouldnt matter one bit in all reality and rotors and pads will but without an upgrade to your calipers you really are making no difference. You want to actually make a difference you would need new calipers. A good brembo kit would deffinatly make a difference in all that but just chainging pads and rotors wont. You actually may damage your calipers because they are not built for that.
[10:59 am] http://www.brembo.com/en/car/sportin...raking-systems

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:04 am] well, judging from most other forums, swapping pads and fluid are actually just the basics. my stock calipers are fine, i'm not sure how using a higher temp compound in the pads would affect the calipers? heat is the enemy here, and i've been told my many folks who have tracked their newer rex's that replacing the fluid and pads is an absoulute must. oem fluid will start to boil after a single lap. oem pads will get so hot that they actually start to smear. believe me, if i had the money for brembos, or another big brake kit, i would do it. for now, swapping in a hybrid pad that's good for street use and track use was the best option

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:07 am] TEMP is an issue but what they dont take in to consideration is the temp on your caliper seals and the amount of stess that will get put on the calipers pistons trying to brake you. I agree with what they say however to do it correctly and actually make a difference that wont cause any kind of overall damage to your car you need to do the calipers. I would care less about my stock pads and rotors as those are cheap. If i were you and you want to start racing that thing you should upgrade to a full Bembo kit. Itll cost you but then you good for street driving and track driving and those dont have temp issues at all. Unless you strap them to a rocket.

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:08 am] but wouldn't that stress be the same with the oem pads anyway?

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:08 am] then you dont ever have to deal with swapping out pads and rotors between street and race

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:09 am] on the calipers i mean

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:09 am] yes and no
[11:09 am] the problem exsist that beacuse your stock calipers are trying so hard to brake you and not doing it efficiently is what is causing heat issues. Change that and temp no longer an issue

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:10 am] i'm really only going to be doing like one or two track days a year anyway. it is my DD after all

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:10 am] Well thats cool bro im just saying. You would go from a dual piston caliper to a six piston caliper.3
[11:11 am] You could stop in under three seconds from sixty to 0
[11:11 am] Plus if you install a brembo set on your car they do add a nice sexy factor to the wheels
[11:11 am] .5

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:13 am] true. believe me, i've been doing a ton of research on this, and talking to guys who have been tracking their subies for many moons, and the general consensus is that:
1) If you can afford it, buy a big brake kit
2) if you can't do that, pads and fluid will keep your car on the track without the brake fade from oem pads

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:13 am] Well that i agree with however your gonna kill your calipers fast if your not careful

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:13 am] i'll be careful
[11:14 am] i'll be doing like, 20 min sessions
[11:14 am] so the car and brake systems wiill have plenty of opportunity to cool downs
[11:14 am] in between sessions

>> Bryan wrote <<
[11:15 am] true. Just watch for the glow of the rotor. If that thing is glowing then back off or youll burn up piston seals on the calipers and then your in a **** pile with no shovel

>> Jrad wrote <<
[11:16 am] i'll try to get more info on that


so what does the forum think? methinks i should take his words with a grain of salt. Thoughts?
This might be more appropriate info on your events.

You can fade brakes easily on a WRX - but if you do fade the yellows you are doing pretty well. I have not used them but they should be a good start.

Do the fluid - DOT 4 minimum.

Pay attention to the brakes and tires - heat kills. Really the whole car for that matter. It tries to self destruct.

You won't likely hurt the caliper seals - you will however likely melt the dust boots.

You might create a bunch of judder if you overheat the pads too much. That can suck.
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:55 PM   #24
Sgt.Gator
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1) You don't need a Brembo big brake kit to track your car twice a year.

2) Listen to what KNS Brakes said ^. And here's plug for KNS Brakes, I've bought pads and rotors over the years from them, good prices and service.

3) Go over the Essex Brakes link I sent you earlier, read the whole series. Watch the videos. Here it is again: https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq

4) Download and read this PDF from Essex brakes, it is a WEALTH of information.
https://www.essexparts.com/storage/w...e%20pads_3.pdf


5) Like KNS said it is very unlikely you will damage your seals. It is possible you could melt your dust boots. However if you really do melt your dust boots at your very first HPDE I will be amazed. I've never had a first time newbie melt his dust boots, you simply will be too busy learning the racing line, shifting, and getting your courage up to stress your brakes that hard the first time on track.

6) Melting your dust boots is a right of passage to faster track times!

7) ORP is not particularly hard on brakes, especially in the clockwise direction. Counterclockwise coming down Valkyrie hill can be hard on them, but I doubt we will be running counter-clockwise.

8) Don't stress out about your brakes, we're going to have fun!
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Old 03-12-2017, 02:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2Rad View Post


That's true, I know it, but you would be surprised how many 'first track day' YouTube video there are where they are still on stock pads.

Gator, I have tried to heel toe, and it's tough. I have big ass sasquatch feet so it's just difficult to physically get my foot over to the throttle while braking. I can quickly rev match with two feet pretty well, but I agree I would need practice if I tried a new technique. There is a pretty good YouTube video with a brz running the track with full telemetry (speed, track position etc), so I've got a pretty good frame of reference for which gear I'll be in at certain points in the track. Honesty I'll be running in mostly 3rd and 4th gear regardless. There might one spot where I would shift to 5th on the main straight. In any case, I'm old enough to know my own limits and I know I have a lot to learn. I'm really excited to see what my car can do in a safe environment, damn I can't wait!

edit to add link to vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JDtUJGLag0

Don't sweat the heel and toe. I have size 12 shoes too, we'll get it down.

Watch this video about how to drive ORP, it will save us a lot of time the first two sessions if you can visualize this:



And here's a one lap video a friend of mine and I did there, Battling LGT Wagons:
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