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Old 07-31-2015, 11:07 PM   #151
teds-rex
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open up your rom in ecuflash and click on the ROM INFO section... device will show up as Memory Model: __________
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:29 PM   #152
mikeyPSF
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If you have a USDM 04 STi, you have a 7055 processor. The instructions on our site are for a 7058. For the 7055, you wire it the same but have to use the Renesas Toolkit.

-Mike
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:27 AM   #153
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I have a 2012 Forester, using the 7058. I tested the EUflash again last night, everything seemed to work, no checksum errors, and it said it was complete. After pulling the ECU off the test board, it still wouldn't talk. No fuel pump prime, and my coolant light was still flashing red and blue.

This morning I am trying to use the renases toolkit, but haven't had any luck yet. It keeps saying:

Clock Frequency = 10.0000MHz, Clock Mode = 0, CKM = 4, and CKP = 2
Connecting to device 'SH/7058F' on 'COM5'
Configuration:
'BOOT Mode' connection - using emulated interface
Opening port 'COM5' ...
Loading Comms DLL
Loaded Comms DLL
Initiating BOOT SCI sequence
Attempting 9600
Received immediate response from device: 0x80
Attempting 4800
Received immediate response from device: 0x80
Attempting 2400
Received immediate response from device: 0x80
Attempting 1200
Error No 15024: Boot failed


Has anyone seen that before?
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:38 PM   #154
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GOT IT!!! Thanks to this thread and everyone's input. I added the Vcc to the RST on the 555 timer, and I saw I forgot a capacitor between Vcc and GND. Once I did that, ECUFlash FLEW thru the program, no hiccups, no double writes, and I just did a flash back onto the ECU to make sure it works thru the OBD, no problem.

However, it's time to diagnose why I can crank but why it wont run. Woooo out of the frying pan and into the fire.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:42 PM   #155
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Your reflash connector is disconnected right?

Also, regarding the above you saw... i saw similar immediate response correct but still failed if i didn't turn the key one RIGHT when i started the connection... just like normal ecuflash mode.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:10 PM   #156
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Looking at you last Renesas log, it shows 7058. When it actually worked, did you have 7055 selected? If not, you may need to rewire and reflash once more using the 7055. From my notes, here are the settings I use:


Recovering SH7055 using Renesas Toolkit FTD Development Toolkit 3.05 Basic
select device: SH/7055F
select port: COM3
CPU crystal frequency: 10 Mhz
select connection: BOOT Mode
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:08 PM   #157
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When I finally got it to work it was using ECUflash. I couldn't get renesas to work, but ECUflash was what I tried first after my circuit corrections.

Are you wondering if the non-ignition could be due to the SH boot? Or were you just curious based on which chip I used for the renesas setup?

Edit - yes, everything is disconnected. Solder points are still there, but everything is off my breadboard.
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Old 08-01-2015, 10:33 PM   #158
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If it was flashed with the wrong target selected that could maybe cause issues, but with ECU flash i expect it determines the correct ECU based on the ROM - so expect its OK there. did you make sure the green connector at the driver footwell is disconnected?
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:44 AM   #159
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I think the connector you are talking about is only needed on older ECUs. I've never had to do anything other than plug into the OBD and flash. I found a nice 14 page diagnostics walkthru of engine starting failure, so I'm just going to plan on walking thru that tomorrow and see what's up as best I can.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:47 AM   #160
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Yeah that might be... I've only worked on 06 and older... Good luck with the debug
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:16 PM   #161
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I won't go into too much detail or discussion because it isn't directly related to this thread, but I found a blown ignition fuse. Replaced, cranked, it blew again. The rear 2 cylinder coil overs had shorted burnt up. I've also been having CEL issues with too many misfires lately, I wonder if they were just slowly eating themselves and finally gave out.
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Old 08-08-2015, 03:17 PM   #162
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I made an account on the Renesas site but I don't see where to go to download the FDT application from the "My Renesas" page. Do the downloads on the link provided in the OP contain everything? They appear to only be upgrades to previous versions.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:48 PM   #163
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The "updates" are full versions. I downloaded this:
Flash Development Toolkit V.4.09 Release 02 Upgrade
installed without having any previous versions and unbricked mine.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:36 AM   #164
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OK, First let me say this is an awesome project!

Now, a few observations.

For the love of God, Please, Start using a grounded static mat, wrist strap etc.

If you're planning on doing a bunch, go get a wiring harness cut from a junk yard and wire the power connections, and double check everything, 12v to the wrong pin even for a moment COULD perma-trash your ECU.

Also, If anybody wants to set up a fixture, I worked for a major in ICT design and build company. A Delrin jig with wire wrap pin sockets and some gold spring loaded test probes could make hooking up a matter of seconds.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:52 AM   #165
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Agreed... That's why I connected to my car during the process instead of on the bench. Building a full jig and offering unbricking service would be cool though not sure if this exists at the moment.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:45 PM   #166
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Thanks teds-rex! Now I'm waiting for my hardware to show up so I can build the adapter. I was shocked when I bricked my ECU because I've flashed the 16 bit ECU in my Impreza a ton of times and never had an issue. I flashed the ECU in my FXT once and for some reason it didn't take even though it said the flash was good. I tried again and it errored and bricked. WTF?!
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:08 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talon2.5RS View Post
I flashed the ECU in my FXT once and for some reason it didn't take even though it said the flash was good.
How do you know it didn't take? Did the car no longer start after you received a message for a successful reflash?


Quote:
Originally Posted by talon2.5RS View Post
I tried again and it errored and bricked. WTF?!
Did you save the error log?

-Mike
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:01 AM   #168
talon2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyPSF View Post
How do you know it didn't take? Did the car no longer start after you received a message for a successful reflash?




Did you save the error log?

-Mike
Tactrix
The car came with A2WC400I and I flashed A2WC412I with a few CEL turned off as a test. Newer version of the same rom. I connected with RomRaider and it said I still had A2WC400I. Downloaded the rom and it was still 400I. Flashed 412I again and it gave me an error. Left the key on and flashed again to try and save it. Car would not start after that.

Edit - had a little time before work to check. I didn't realize the log was not automatically saved. No log for me.

Last edited by talon2.5RS; 08-10-2015 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:38 AM   #169
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Mike, hoping you might have some insight on the watchdog and the real requirement. I used a clock generator the first time i unbricked just because I couldn't get the 555 locally. I setup the clock for 125Hz per the notes. Afterwards i ordered some 555 and built up the circuit as a JUST IN CASE THIS HAPPENS AGAIN but the resistor values on the SHBOOT schematics don't generate 125Hz like it says, but instead around 150Hz. Either of these sounds wicked high for a watchdog, but then again I work in consumer electronics and not mission critical ECU so maybe the difference lies there. Should the clock be 125Hz or 150Hz?
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:04 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talon2.5RS View Post
The car came with A2WC400I and I flashed A2WC412I with a few CEL turned off as a test. Newer version of the same rom. I connected with RomRaider and it said I still had A2WC400I. Downloaded the rom and it was still 400I. Flashed 412I again and it gave me an error. Left the key on and flashed again to try and save it. Car would not start after that.

Edit - had a little time before work to check. I didn't realize the log was not automatically saved. No log for me.
The only thing I can think of there is that maybe you clicked on the test write button instead of the normal write icon. The test write walks through all of the communications without actually changing any bits, so it would look similar in the logging output. I've never in the five years of working here had anyone say that they had a successful write to an ECU, but then read out something different afterward.

If you feel like you're having frequent issues, send me an email to support at tactrix dot com and we can setup some additional debugging output. Also, be sure to use the latest version of EcuFlash from our site.


Quote:
Originally Posted by teds-rex View Post
Should the clock be 125Hz or 150Hz?
Either of those values should be fine.

-Mike
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:24 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teds-rex View Post
Agreed... That's why I connected to my car during the process instead of on the bench. Building a full jig and offering unbricking service would be cool though not sure if this exists at the moment.
Tell you what. If you'll send me a dead ECU, Say one that can't be unbricked I'll build you a drop in programming jig. Just send me a diagram of the points you need access to. I'll do this provided you offer the service at a decent discount to NASIOC members. It will save you a fair amount of time not having to solder I believe. Essentially its a block of a fiberglass type material that's machined to accept the board with alignment pins. then there are sockets that accept these little spring loaded in circuit test probes to make the connections. You just drop, lock and go.

When I was building military grade palm pilots I built one. Before that you had to disassemble the unit and pull a board to flash one of the CPLD devices. After I built the fixture I could do them in the case in a matter of thirty to forty five seconds each. Well worth it.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:33 AM   #172
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I've used similar built from FR4 or even Plexiglas before with spring contacts loaded on it. If works well but like you said the board needs to be locked in somehow. Need to look how this can be done. Possibly a sandwich that slides on from the side but need to check clearance of the rear of the case. Also not sure if all the different models have test points in same location or not? The boards must have some differences as some use different micros but not sure on test point location / arangment. Maybe folks unbricking can share photos of their test points to compare. All I have in my driveway is an 02, 04, and 06 which I can probably pull and check this weekend.

The harder part than soldering as I have done so far is powering it. Really need to get a harness cut up and wired for power. I hadn't seen a clear list of power pins and again. If sure if this varies at all from car to car, any thoughts?
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:24 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teds-rex View Post
Also not sure if all the different models have test points in same location or not?
They all use the same numbered connections (P407,P405,etc.) but those connection points are at different locations on different boards. I can't recall off the top of my head but I think it's a single digit number of variations you'd have to account for.


Quote:
Originally Posted by teds-rex View Post
All I have in my driveway is an 02, 04, and 06 which I can probably pull and check this weekend.
Early 16 bit ECUs aren't recoverable so don't bother opening up the 02 in the driveway. That's a ~$50 junk yard swap. If the 04 is a WRX, that's the same solution, but if it's a STi, then you can map it for recovery as those have the 7055.


Quote:
Originally Posted by teds-rex View Post
The harder part than soldering as I have done so far is powering it.
Agreed. Soldering to the circuit board is pretty simple as long as you have the right soldering iron. The only ECU that I've not been able to repair is one that someone tried to fix themselves using a really hot soldering iron inappropriate for circuit board use. Figuring out the powering up of each ECU is a little more work.

-Mike
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:29 PM   #174
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Yeah the 04 is an STi with the 7055 as you said... and this one was already unbricked once
The 06 is a 2.5i so not sure which ECU it uses.

Mike, i had a previous question about the watchdog, do you know if it should really be 125kHz or 150kHz? The SHBOOT text says 125k, but if you do the calcuations on the resistors in the schematic for the 555, it comes out to 150k. I unbricked mine at 125k, but just wanted to check what the suggested value was.
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:52 PM   #175
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The 06 2.5i uses the 7058. If you want to figure out memory model for a particular car, just navigate to the definition in your EcuFlash install by browsing in Windows. Go to this folder with the preview pane open in Windows Explorer

C:\Program Files (x86)\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\subaru\Impreza 2.5i

Then just arrow down until you see the 06, and you'll see the following info at the top:

Code:
<rom>
	<romid>
		<xmlid>E2UE202L</xmlid>
		<internalidaddress>2000</internalidaddress>
		<internalidstring>E2UE202L</internalidstring>
		<ecuid>4D12084106</ecuid>
		<make>Subaru</make>
		<market>USDM</market>
		<model>Impreza</model>
		<submodel>2.5i</submodel>
		<transmission>MT</transmission>
		<year>06</year>
		<flashmethod>sti05</flashmethod>
		<memmodel>SH7058</memmodel>
		<checksummodule>subarudbw</checksummodule>
	</romid>
I answered the watchdog question in my reply on August 10th. It's about 5 posts up. Either 125 or 150Hz (not kHz) should work fine.

-Mike
Tactrix
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