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Old 12-28-2020, 02:53 PM   #1
m5gorrf
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Default TGV Deletes Make or Buy?

Would like real life experiences in the Make Vs. Buy TGV Top Feed Deletes?

I have the tools and skills to gut the TGV for my 06 WRX, would buy 'scrap' TGVs to keep my existing TGV, for long in the future smog (IF ever).

Looking at a overall cost of under $100 for TGVs & replacement grinding tools, assuming blades & bits might wear.

Any functional reason to pay almost 3 times that for pretty ones.. you can hardly see?

Thanks for reading
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Old 12-28-2020, 03:32 PM   #2
Vtwrx04
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Can't really answer your question, but I do have a set of stock tgv's from an 06 wrx for.sale.if you want/need.a.good backup set.
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Old 12-28-2020, 03:34 PM   #3
Haevn
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Sent you pm. But I went with aftermarket ones cause I didnít feel like grinding and what not lol
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Old 12-28-2020, 10:27 PM   #4
m5gorrf
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Thanks,

Anyone have insight on DYI TGVs?
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Old 12-29-2020, 12:36 AM   #5
subaru_gc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5gorrf View Post
Thanks,

Anyone have insight on DYI TGVs?
they work. i mean as long as you are make sure you seal it all up. but other wise yeah its all the same
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Old 12-29-2020, 01:48 AM   #6
JSR84
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I did a set to try it out a while ago and it's a decent amount of work if you're going to weld them and port them. But If you have a proper die grinder and a good set of burrs, it makes things quicker.

On that note, I have a set of deleted and ported TGV's for sale!
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Old 12-29-2020, 10:05 AM   #7
BlackFighter
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I made mine using a dremal and liquid weld. Worked like a charm on my 450whp sti.
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Old 12-31-2020, 12:39 PM   #8
m5gorrf
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Thanks for all the input & offers, just building the long block now install later this year. Felt I might need to get started now on this part.

Thanks again
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Old 01-03-2021, 07:16 PM   #9
AliBenn
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You could choose the poor mans option......
Just take/drill out the butterfly valves
(Leaving only a rotating rod)
And re-install
By no means im say better airflow
But
Less $$ than buying new AM ones
Less labor and less chance of air leak if modified

I did this bc I was stalled monetary wise with stock fuel delivery (side feed injectors and just plain ran out of budgeted money)
I also had tuner disable TGV motors so no chance of CE lite

Not saying this is best solution
But IMO best monetary solution
Im thinking, just removing butterflies, will increase airflow 50%
MUCH more if modifying or buying new AM ones
GL
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Old 01-04-2021, 10:54 PM   #10
Unabomber
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I've done both versions because knucklehead. Either are fine. Welding up the holes is the only farm out part, but I'm sure any muffler shop could do it for $10. I had my buddy Kartboy do it for a burrito. Then air tools, carbide bits and some cutting fluid. Used old gaskets and sharpie for port matching. Hand porting is pretty therapeutic if you axe me. Ultimately if you have a compressor and a hand spinner thing and a few Harbor Freight/ebay cutting bits, give it a go!
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Old 01-05-2021, 11:40 AM   #11
m5gorrf
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Great input & I have the tools also find doing this work is very therapeutic. thanks, what I remember from porting using old gaskets.. great to hear some of the old ways are still in use.

Intending to box all the smog stuff. I run a Cat but only have to smog at time of transfer. Still feel a responsibility beyond the first 120 seconds of operation, that the TGVs assist. My shortest drive is almost an hour.
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Old 01-05-2021, 02:21 PM   #12
kharmicresonance
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Welding is not necessary to block the ports where the butterfly mounting rod goes through the TGV:

A - drill out the bearing shoulders in the outer wall of the TGV - this will give you access to reach the passage through the center of the TGV

B - order an extended length tap or extended tap holder ( don't recall size right now ) to reach through outer wall to the center passage, WD40 works fine as tap cutting fluid for aluminum

C - use regular tap to tap the outer wall hole ( this is obviously larger than the one used for the center passage ), again use wd40

D - order 4 grub screws to match each of the tap sizes

E - USE TRIBOND to generously coat the grub screws and install them, making sure that they are flush with the inside of the TGV housing, and wipe away any excess tribond.

F - Let cure 24 hours and install

Some folks have expressed fears about the grub screws loosening up, but I have never heard of that actually happening to anyone.

Ebay a set of tgv's for ~50$, taps ( if you don't have them ) ~25$, grub screws ~2$, of course there are more costs if you don't already have a grinder or dremel or hacksaw. Just trying to show that you don't *have* to spend 200$ for TGV deletes.

Last edited by kharmicresonance; 01-05-2021 at 02:23 PM. Reason: misspelling
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Old 01-06-2021, 09:59 PM   #13
GeoNV
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I just did my own and it was a lot easier than I thought. Maybe 3 hours total into them. So if you bill yourself out at shop rates itís a wash. The die grinding was pretty easy. I used Milwaukee Model# 48-89-4875
And Everbilt M10-1.5 x 25 mm Phillips Flat Head Stainless Steel Machine Screws with JB weld on the threads and around the bolt heads to keep them from backing out. I decided not to plug the center hole as from what I read it wouldnít offer a big issue since you are equalizing between runners.
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Old 01-07-2021, 08:18 PM   #14
AliBenn
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^^^^really good advice all around

I just plain ran out of funds and on stock fuel system
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